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Old 01-11-2014, 09:49 AM   #51 (permalink)
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This is what those flares look like with 35's...



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Old 01-13-2014, 07:54 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Thanks, I think your build was where I got the idea to use those flares.

Nothing picture worthy accomplished over the weekend, just measured for my steering link lengths, going to be ordering those this week.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:30 AM   #53 (permalink)
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I bought all the DOM tubing for the links this week, and set up my lathe to cut a matching bevel to the tube inserts.

2" x 1/4" wall for the upper and lower links



1.5" x 1/4" wall for the panhard bar


I tried out the rollers I built as a make shift welding positioner, and had some issues with the ground wanting to pull the tube in one direction or another. Sort of solved it by wrapping some ground strap around the tube and letting it unwind. I still wish I had a real rotary positioner, I think it'd make the end product much more consistent. I tried both MIG and TIG on some extra joints I ordered, and was happier with the results using TIG, so that's how I'll do the rest of the joints. I doubt they will end up in the pretty weld thread, but I am getting solid penetration with the current setup so it will hold.

Cut one in half to check penetration and make sure I'm not getting any porosity/gaps
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:29 AM   #54 (permalink)
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That brings back memory's of a tig welding class I took, where we spent 2 months welding nothing but 4" 1/4 walled pipe in every position. So much easier to welding something on a table/jig.

I looked into a Welding Positioner, but the cost was more than I could justify.
If I had a side job where I made a bunch of parts that would be another story. I normally look to use the TIG when I can just to stay in practice. But when I welding up some links a few months back I used the new 210 MIG welder just because I could.

Looks good
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:50 AM   #55 (permalink)
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That brings back memory's of a tig welding class I took, where we spent 2 months welding nothing but 4" 1/4 walled pipe in every position. So much easier to welding something on a table/jig.

I looked into a Welding Positioner, but the cost was more than I could justify.
If I had a side job where I made a bunch of parts that would be another story. I normally look to use the TIG when I can just to stay in practice. But when I welding up some links a few months back I used the new 210 MIG welder just because I could.

Looks good
I'm actually taking welding classes through the local college right now. Unfortunately its a course series focused on the pipeline industry around here, and the instructor isn't letting us try anything other than stick welding. I get that its best to learn the basics and work from there, but at this rate I'll be done with all the welding on this truck before we learn it in class.

I'll post some details of the DIY positioner I'm working on once I get some more details worked out.

Got the rest of the links tacked up last night and bolted back in under the truck.




Ordered the tie rod and drag link from WFO Concepts, they sell them cut to your specs, tapped and with milled wrench flats for less than I could have bought tubing and taps myself. Last piece of the puzzle will be to build the panhard bar mounts, which I'm waiting on getting the drag link into place for, so that I can try to match the length and angle as best as packaging allows.
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:34 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Received the drag link and tie rod from WFO Concepts, nice parts.


I'm using 7/8 thread Dodge/Chevy TRE's, also from WFO:

Drag Link: ES2027R and ES2027L


Tie Rod: ES2010R and ES2010L


WJ pitman arm, reamed out for the larger TRE taper and filed the 'master' splines so that it'll key on my steering box whatever way I need it to


Suspension at ride height, Panhard bar not in place yet




Start to the steering box mounting


I'll sleeve the other 2 bolts through the frame, and tie this top sleeve in with some strap.

This weekend I was able to get the panhard bracket mocked up, and test out how it looks under articulation:






I wound up rotating the upper link mount backward an inch and the axle, to make room for the panhard bar mount. Using the ruffstuff panhard bracket in the highest hole, the panhard bar is almost exactly parallel to the drag link at ride height. Panhard and drag link lengths are identical. I want to try to measure how much bump steer this setup will give me, either by improving my CAD model to accurately include steering parts, or physically measuring it on the truck (or both). I may slot out the panhard bracket to lower the mounting hole (make a custom weld washer to locate the hole), or I may built my own panhard bracket, since this one takes up a lot of my very limited axle tube real estate.

Next steps, build a more permanent panhard bracket on the frame, figure out shock mounts, and try to get some idea of corner weights so that I can get springs to put on the coilovers. Cant wait to get it back to being a roller again soon.
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:49 PM   #57 (permalink)
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WJ pitman arm, reamed out for the larger TRE taper and filed the 'master' splines so that it'll key on my steering box whatever way I need it to
Could I get a shot of that arm with a tape measure? Looking to find the length from center to center on the holes. Plus how much drop
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Old 02-03-2014, 02:06 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Could I get a shot of that arm with a tape measure? Looking to find the length from center to center on the holes. Plus how much drop
I can measure mine tonight, but I found out about it from this thread:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...reference.html

Looks like ~6.5 center to center, 2" drop: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...l#post10954650
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Old 02-03-2014, 02:21 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Thanks, I have the waggy arm which if I recall is 7" center to center.

I think the Ford F250 pitman arm from circa 1979-1980 is the same size, but twice as beefy.
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Old 02-03-2014, 02:38 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Thanks, I have the waggy arm which if I recall is 7" center to center.

I think the Ford F250 pitman arm from circa 1979-1980 is the same size, but twice as beefy.
Same diameter/splines? Good to know as a backup.
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:13 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
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This weekend I was able to get the panhard bracket mocked up, and test out how it looks under articulation:






I wound up rotating the upper link mount backward an inch and the axle, to make room for the panhard bar mount. Using the ruffstuff panhard bracket in the highest hole, the panhard bar is almost exactly parallel to the drag link at ride height. Panhard and drag link lengths are identical. I want to try to measure how much bump steer this setup will give me, either by improving my CAD model to accurately include steering parts, or physically measuring it on the truck (or both). I may slot out the panhard bracket to lower the mounting hole (make a custom weld washer to locate the hole), or I may built my own panhard bracket, since this one takes up a lot of my very limited axle tube real estate.

Next steps, build a more permanent panhard bracket on the frame, figure out shock mounts, and try to get some idea of corner weights so that I can get springs to put on the coilovers. Cant wait to get it back to being a roller again soon.
If your panhard and draglink are that similar in length and angle. You won't have bumpsteer.
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Old 02-04-2014, 01:05 PM   #62 (permalink)
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If your panhard and draglink are that similar in length and angle. You won't have bumpsteer.
That's what I am telling myself, but the anal engineer side of me wants to know how much it is.

Space is getting tight on the passenger side of the axle housing, so I'm looking at re-designing the panhard bracket to also pick up the shock mount, and potentially lower the panhard mounting holes a bit to line up the panhard better with the drag link.
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Old 02-04-2014, 04:17 PM   #63 (permalink)
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All-Purpose Scout 80 Build

Looks good. You and I have been up the same things. I just made my panhard/ mounts and built my drag link. Next up is mounting my steering box. I'm using one out of my old YJ.
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:18 PM   #64 (permalink)
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That's what I am telling myself, but the anal engineer side of me wants to know how much it is.
I know quite a few ME's. This is a strong tendency with all of them

Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoDave View Post
Space is getting tight on the passenger side of the axle housing, so I'm looking at re-designing the panhard bracket to also pick up the shock mount, and potentially lower the panhard mounting holes a bit to line up the panhard better with the drag link.
I like this idea.
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Old 02-19-2014, 04:28 PM   #65 (permalink)
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The rear end sat higher than I wanted with the springs over the axle, so I flipped the setup around and am running SUA. For now I am using 56 chevy springs, with a few leaves removed. I anticipate needing to tune this once the truck is on all four wheels again.
I used the CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) method to make some rear spring hangers.





[/IMG]


Dave, you happen to have the approximate dimensions of those spring hangers? Looks to be about 5" tall and 7" wide, I'm working on materials right now, and did not want to reinvent the wheel if I did not have to.

Thanks!
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:19 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Crap - I meant to bring the template in to work today and scan it for you, will try to remember tomorrow.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:53 AM   #67 (permalink)
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No worries amigo, THANKS!!!
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:42 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Alright finally remembered to grab it and scan it. The ruler is sort of hard to read, but you can probably print the pdf 1:1 scale and it'll be close enough.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7r...it?usp=sharing

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Old 02-26-2014, 06:02 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Worked Perfect!! Thanks!
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:36 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Nice build... subscribed
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Old 03-18-2014, 01:42 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Dave, any chance that I could get you to send me that solidworks file for the scout frame?

My Engineer buddy in Sacramento is bored and wants a project

mace@ih8mud.com
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:08 AM   #72 (permalink)
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What are you looking to do with it? The frame itself is about as basic as it gets.

I've been intending to update the 3D model once I finalize all of the suspensions bracketry, including the shock mounts. The frame model isn't perfectly accurate, just based on what I had available to measure with.

Been sidetracked the last few weeks working on some built in shelving the wife wanted in the living room. Hoping to wrap that up this weekend and get back to working on the Scout.
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:20 AM   #73 (permalink)
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What are you looking to do with it? The frame itself is about as basic as it gets.

I've been intending to update the 3D model once I finalize all of the suspensions bracketry, including the shock mounts. The frame model isn't perfectly accurate, just based on what I had available to measure with.

Been sidetracked the last few weeks working on some built in shelving the wife wanted in the living room. Hoping to wrap that up this weekend and get back to working on the Scout.
I have a engineering buddy that has some free time on his hands right now. He wants to take the solidworks file you drafted and use it for my radius arm mockups.
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:48 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Also, are your rear tires centered in the wheel wells or stretched further back? I'm looking at a set of 52" chevy springs, however if yours are moved back, I'll just try the 56's and move the mounting point forward.
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:31 AM   #75 (permalink)
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I have a engineering buddy that has some free time on his hands right now. He wants to take the solidworks file you drafted and use it for my radius arm mockups.
I'll send you an email about this.

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Also, are your rear tires centered in the wheel wells or stretched further back? I'm looking at a set of 52" chevy springs, however if yours are moved back, I'll just try the 56's and move the mounting point forward.
My axle sits ~2" back from stock, I set it up so the front edge of the tire won't get into the back of the saddle tanks at full bump. With 33's you won't have as much of an issue but I would still check it. Pushing the leaf spring hanger forward will also move it down on the frame somewhat, since mine are on the curve upwards, but it shouldn't make a big difference. Could also french the hanger into the frame, if you reinforce things well.



I don't think the tires are centered in the wheel opening to start with, here's a photo from when I bought the truck:
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