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Old 02-14-2015, 05:39 PM   #151 (permalink)
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Chop the shit out of the mounting plate and sink the HB into firewall a little bit.
I just made a new plate and recessed it all about 3 to 4"
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:30 AM   #152 (permalink)
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Shifting gears from all that suspension work, I've been working on cleaning up the frame and underside of the body to paint. Goal is to get that done, drop the body back on the frame for good, and then start final mechanical assembly. I will paint the outside sometime later.

In process of lifting the body


I was planning to lift it high enough to roll the frame out from under it, but once I got it up about 12" I realized I've got enough room to do what I need to, so I'm just running with it as-is. Before anyone yells at me, this was just during the lift, there are now additional supports between the body and frame to keep it from falling on my head.

Jack riser I built, its bolted solid to my floor jack. this also gives an idea of what the frame is like now, lots of surface rust but nothing serious. the body rot you see in the rocker is the worst spot on the body, and I have plans for a solid rock slider piece that will replace this whole area.


I'm lifting on a piece of heavy wall tube, with 2x10 wood blocks distributing the load between 2 braces that are under the cab. The back of the body is supported by a tube bolted to the body mounts, across some sawhorses.

I'm starting with a twisted wire cup on a grinder to knock the loose stuff off, followed by another grinder with a paint stripper disc on it (LINK). These things work awesome but I learned quickly to stay away from edges, or you get to watch a $5 disc disappear in about 0.1 seconds.

Anyways a couple of afternoons of work has the frame from what you see above to this:


The plan is to shoot the frame with good old rustoleum primer and top coat, this will make changes later easier than if I used something like POR-15. The underside of the body will get a coat of this stuff (LINK) since I don't see any way I will get 100% of the rust off the body. Primer will be followed by LizardSkin sound insulation, and finally a top coat of rustoleum with ceramic beads mixed in to (hopefully) help with heat insulation. Yes I know its a lot of work to throw at a crappy old truck with a not great body, but I am hoping the sound/heat insulation helps make it a halfway reasonable truck to put some miles down.

Before I spray the coating on the body I need to make sure all the holes in the body are welded up, so I've been making plugs to weld in using my new favorite toy - Blair Rotabroach kit


Some of these holes look like they were drilled with a dull masonry bit, or maybe a .45 ACP. You can see that the metal under all that surface rust really isn't that bad. Its not a show truck, so it'll work out fine. I'm more interested in keeping water out than how it looks, plus eventually the inside of the tub will get a coat of bedliner to hide all my crappy body work..


Random holes in the fenders, I'm just going to try to take these closed using a copper backer.


The worst hole at the back of the floor was bad enough I just cut out out with a 1.5" hole saw and made a larger patch.


I've also been collecting parts for the steering/hydroboost system as well as the rest of the plumbing, so once I get though this body work phase I'm hoping to be making some more interesting progress.
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Old 03-03-2015, 05:27 AM   #153 (permalink)
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I love those roto cutters. You would be surprised how thick of material you can go through. Lots of 5/8" and 3/4" holes in hard truck frames.
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Old 03-03-2015, 07:13 AM   #154 (permalink)
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No kidding - i've been looking at larger sizes, typically used in mag drills - they aren't cheap, but man they cut nicer than a hole saw.
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Old 03-03-2015, 02:31 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Well thanks to you I am now looking at getting a set of these things...

You owe me some $$
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Old 03-03-2015, 08:36 PM   #156 (permalink)
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Well thanks to you I am now looking at getting a set of these things...

You owe me some $$
You'll like them. I originally got one mainly to cut spot welds, and realized how useful they are.

I think the small set can handle 1/4" depth of cut, and I don't see building with anything thicker than that anyways.
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Old 03-05-2015, 09:14 PM   #157 (permalink)
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Nice, gonna order me a set of those, got a ton of holes to patch in my scout. Will also work great for the holes I need to drill in the frame to mount my steering box.
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Old 03-05-2015, 11:11 PM   #158 (permalink)
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While you've got the body up, box the mid body mounts. They tend to fold up and collapse. Leave one side open so you can still get a wrench in there to do the body mounts.
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Last edited by guidolyons; 03-05-2015 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 03-06-2015, 08:13 PM   #159 (permalink)
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While you've got the body up, box the mid body mounts. They tend to fold up and collapse. Leave one side open so you can still get a wrench in there to do the body mounts.
So weird thing about that, the body side of the mid body mounts were not attached to the tub, nor can I tell that they ever were. I'd planned to weld them on unless there's a good reason not to.

I think one of the frame side mounts is already collapsed, so good idea to box them in.

Last edited by MotoDave; 03-07-2015 at 06:08 AM.
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Old 03-09-2015, 07:19 AM   #160 (permalink)
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My garage is currently stuffed full of the contents of my house, we're replacing the crap floors that were in there when we bought. I figured my wife might be happier if I didn't bring the couches back into the house full of grinding dust, so I came up with another project to work on this weekend - shock reservoir clamps.

I helped a friend start up a business machining billet AR15 and AR10 sets, and I've still got access to the machine (Haas VF-1) when I want to. Also have access to a lot of free 7075 material, but its not always the shape I really need, so I got creative and nested 2 parts in one block.


A few more steps, we've got a clamp!


Seems to work

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Old 03-09-2015, 10:46 AM   #161 (permalink)
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Those AR shrouds are sexy...the shock clamps look good, too.

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So weird thing about that, the body side of the mid body mounts were not attached to the tub, nor can I tell that they ever were. I'd planned to weld them on unless there's a good reason not to.

I think one of the frame side mounts is already collapsed, so good idea to box them in.
My mid-body mount were not attached to the body very well either, one was completely detached and the other was barely held on with half a spot weld. Definitely needs to be securely attached to the body.
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History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

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Last edited by guidolyons; 03-09-2015 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:45 AM   #162 (permalink)
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I have terrible luck with rust oleum finishes. Poor coverage and the stuff takes forever to dry. The home improvement stores only carry rust oleum products now.
I prefer Krylon products and Ace Hardware still carrys them.
Nice progress, will you be able to finish weld all your brackets without moving the frame?
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:56 AM   #163 (permalink)
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I've had good experience with their industrial products, its better than what you find at Home Depot. I'll probably get it through Grainger since there's one 1/2 mile from my work.

9 less holes in the floor:

Last edited by MotoDave; 03-30-2015 at 06:57 AM.
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:29 AM   #164 (permalink)
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I have been using thier roll bar and chassis lately, a bit more money but I am very impressed with it.
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Old 04-20-2015, 07:38 AM   #165 (permalink)
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Well, bit of a break in the action while we replaced all of the flooring in our house, but I'm back to work now.

I finally got a solid day in the garage yesterday, it was one of those where nothing really looks different at the end of the day but my arms and back are telling me work got done

After lots of practicing I finally burned in all of the suspension brackets that will be inaccessible once the body is back down on the frame. Won't be winning accolades in the 'pretty welds' thread but I did some bend testing on practice pieces and they're plenty strong. And if anyone wants to poke at my welds you're welcome to come do it yourself!

Front shock tower & back side of motor mount


Another view


Rear shock mounts


Rear spring hanger - i wish this had come out a bit nicer, but this is really pushing my vertical & overhead welding skill level


Also got the rest of the holes filled in in the back of the tub and got about 1/2 of the underside cleaned up for paint. Too tired to care about taking a picture at that point, but its not exciting anyways. I'll keep plugging away at paint prep and hope to shoot the underside soon, then I'll drop the body back on the frame and have a roller again.
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:47 AM   #166 (permalink)
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I finally got a solid day in the garage yesterday, it was one of those where nothing really looks different at the end of the day but my arms and back are telling me work got done
Getting old sucks
Shock mounts look good. It takes practice to get better at out of position welds. I've seen worse
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Last edited by guidolyons; 05-01-2015 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 05-01-2015, 01:06 PM   #167 (permalink)
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Getting old sucks
Tell me about it!!
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Old 05-02-2015, 08:22 AM   #168 (permalink)
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Getting old sucks
Shock mounts look good. It takes practice to get better at out of position welds. I've seen worse
Thanks. I've said that you can pretty well tell when I built certain parts on the truck by the welding, its been a learning process for sure.

Hey, who shot holes in the bottom of my truck!


That one looks about 9mm, there have got to be a half dozen .22 sized holes. All in the floor, my work today is going to be patching all of them

edit: No, that jack isn't holding up the body, just acting as a stabilizer.

Last edited by MotoDave; 05-02-2015 at 08:28 AM.
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:14 AM   #169 (permalink)
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Field expedient drain holes...or very poor weapons handling.

I had to drill some drain holes in my floor, I had POR15 and Al's Liner which sealed it up nice and tight...bikini top + rain=driving around in ankle deep water. I went home and drilled some drain holes.
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Last edited by guidolyons; 05-02-2015 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 05-02-2015, 12:39 PM   #170 (permalink)
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Yup that's what I assumed too. I'll add some sort of floor drain back in for the same reasons, maybe the jeep wrangler obround type since I can easily get plugs.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:47 AM   #171 (permalink)
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The last few weekends have been spent getting the floors cleaned up, holes welded and generally prepped as well as I can for paint. Lots of time with these, as well as some air tools. You can never have too many grinders.


You can see the 'before' condition above, here's the after (with more bullet holes):


I made up a little tool to make welding up holes easier, its a switchable magnet that holds a 1/4" thick piece of copper against the panel. Worked out really well, it is strong enough I could stick it under the bed and do my welding from above. I'm doing all of this solo so this worked way easier than one of those welding spoons you have to hold.


Same process under the bed, then a few coats of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator


And the end result of all this work, 2 coats of Lizardskin Sound Control sprayed under the bed.


I used a generic undercoating (schutz) gun, my buddy gave it to me after he sprayed bedliner with it. Took a little adjusting to get the air pressure and nozzle settings right but it worked out pretty well. The Lizardskin stuff is nice to work with, cleans up with water and doesn't really have a smell to it. Painting under the truck sucks, I was glad I bought a tyvek bunny suit with a hood to keep the spatter mostly off of me.

I'll re-mask and spray the floorboards this week, then the body goes back on the frame this weekend.

Last edited by MotoDave; 05-04-2015 at 07:54 AM.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:59 AM   #172 (permalink)
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Unpaid product endorsement: For what its worth, that Metabo grinder (LINK) in the middle is worth every penny I paid for it. Its got a lot less vibration when running than the Dewalt or Fein grinders, and has some sort of anti-stall mechanism that really helped when using the twisted wire brush (this type: Knotted Wire End Brushes). The other 2 grinders would put my hands to sleep in 5-10 minutes, and I spent probably 5-6 hours holding a grinder over my head cleaning up the floors so far.

It also has a pretty trick nut that holds normal flap wheels and cuttoffs on, that you just hand tighten down instead of having to find the stupid wrench that's never where you expect it.

Last edited by MotoDave; 05-04-2015 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 05-04-2015, 09:28 AM   #173 (permalink)
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That magnet mounted copper backer is pretty slick

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instead of having to find the stupid wrench that's never where you expect it.
Mine are ziptied to the grinder cord, never need to look more than 3 ft to find it.
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History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

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Old 05-04-2015, 01:06 PM   #174 (permalink)
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Mine are ziptied to the grinder cord, never need to look more than 3 ft to find it.
Good idea, I'll have to do that.

Last edited by MotoDave; 05-05-2015 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 05-09-2015, 02:49 PM   #175 (permalink)
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You wouldn't by chance want to share that base chassis model would you?
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