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Old 05-09-2015, 09:05 PM   #176 (permalink)
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You wouldn't by chance want to share that base chassis model would you?
Shoot me a PM and let me know what you're doing, I'm not opposed to sharing some data depending on what you're wanting to use it for.
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:28 AM   #177 (permalink)
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Shoot me a PM and let me know what you're doing, I'm not opposed to sharing some data depending on what you're wanting to use it for.
I'm in the earlier process of a similar project with a 66. I threw together a rough model of the chassis with body still on, but wasn't going to be able to really confirm hard points until I get the tub cut off.

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Old 05-11-2015, 11:01 AM   #178 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Harley0706 View Post
I'm in the earlier process of a similar project with a 66. I threw together a rough model of the chassis with body still on, but wasn't going to be able to really confirm hard points until I get the tub cut off.
I'll send you a PM - not sure how much help my chassis model will be, the frame is relatively accurate but doesn't include any body mounts (not changing them) and doesn't include any stock suspensions points (not using any of them).

I struggled to find a consistent reference point to measure to for setting up the new suspension brackets. On my truck the body mounts are not consistent side to side, so I wound up making a 'datum' bar that locates on 2 holes in the bottom of the frame.

Last edited by MotoDave; 05-11-2015 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 06-19-2015, 12:34 PM   #179 (permalink)
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Well time for another long overdue update, this time I have a good excuse though



My wife and I had out first child, a healthy baby boy named Ethan. I took a month off of work, and I've managed to sneak some garage time in when the wife and baby are napping throughout the day.

I finished up work on the floors with the same lizardskin coating under the passenger compartment floor boards, as well as painting the frame where I am finished welding. The body is set back down on the frame and the truck is back to being a roller.


To finish off the floors I needed to fill in this gap I cut out to clear the transfer case.


Played with cardboard until I had a shape that I was happy with, then transferred the design to metal and used my buddy's brake at his house to make the bends.




First piece tacked in




The second (more complicated) piece didn't work out exactly like I planned, I didn't account for the metal shrinkage at the bend quite right, so I wounp up modifying it a bit but I'm still happy with how it came out. I still need to finish weld this in and grind it down smooth.
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Old 06-19-2015, 12:38 PM   #180 (permalink)
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Hmm, something changed here, its making me split up my posts to only have 10 images?

Next I cleaned up the transmission tunnel cover, opened up the shifter hole to fit the NV4500 shifter tower, and welded up the stock transfer case shifter hole. The transmission shifter is roughly in the same place as the stock one, but the t-case shifters will be quite a bit further back. I am still working out exact placement and will have to cut a new hole once I get that sorted out.



No more transfer case shifter hole. You can see i used a big piece of copper as a backer, really makes work like this pretty easy. I tig welded up the patch panel, makes for less weld to grind down after the fact.





Found a nice big Hurst shifter boot that covers the transmission shift tower, and the rest of the transmission and t-case fit nicely under the cover so I didn't have to modify it too much more.


To finalize t-case shifter location I wanted the seats to at least be mocked up into place. The seats I'm using are from a TJ Rubicon unlimited, and have a nice fold forward feature that should make getting into the back seat easier, so I wanted to keep the bases intact. This means cutting out the stock seat bases, and making some quickie mock up bases to let me play with height and position.




I'm going to cut out the bulkhead behind the seats, but I think with the seat flipped forward access won't be too bad, and I also can use the area behind/under the seat for storage.


Next steps - build some transfer case shifters & finish the floor mods, then pull the drivetrain for finish welding of more brackets on the frame, some firewall modification needed to clear the exhaust manifold, and pull the axles to finish weld the suspension brackets and re-gear. Then I'll actually be dropping the drivetrain back in for the (maybe) last time, and start plumbing and wiring.

Last edited by MotoDave; 06-19-2015 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 06-19-2015, 05:54 PM   #181 (permalink)
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The second (more complicated) piece didn't work out exactly like I planned, I didn't account for the metal shrinkage at the bend quite right, so I wounp up modifying it a bit but I'm still happy with how it came out. I still need to finish weld this in and grind it down smooth.
Do yourself a favor and make sure you can the slide the transfer case back far enough to remove it with the patch in place before you finish weld it. It looks like it will be close.
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Old 06-20-2015, 10:30 AM   #182 (permalink)
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Do yourself a favor and make sure you can the slide the transfer case back far enough to remove it with the patch in place before you finish weld it. It looks like it will be close.
Good catch - it looks closer than it is. In hindsight I actually didn't HAVE to notch the floor, but it would have been pretty close between the transfer case and the edge of the floor, any rotation of the drivetrain and it would have probably hit.
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:55 AM   #183 (permalink)
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Scout is looking good. Congrats on the curtain climber. With any luck you might finish the Scout in time for him to drive it.
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Old 06-24-2015, 01:16 PM   #184 (permalink)
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Scout is looking good. Congrats on the curtain climber. With any luck you might finish the Scout in time for him to drive it.
Dammit - my wife said the same thing.
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Old 06-29-2015, 09:06 AM   #185 (permalink)
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Who wants to guess what I've been working on?

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Old 07-03-2015, 10:59 AM   #186 (permalink)
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Ditching TBI for LS?
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:05 PM   #187 (permalink)
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Ditching TBI for LS?
Yup, since the motor needs to come out soon anyways I reckon I may as well stick back in what I really wanted in the first place. I have a used LM7 coming next week, its the 5.3 out of a 2004 silverado. They've gotten so much cheaper since I started this project and bought the TBI motor it was an easy choice.
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Old 07-08-2015, 03:30 PM   #188 (permalink)
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Something fun showed up today:
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Old 07-08-2015, 03:52 PM   #189 (permalink)
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Here is some valuable info for you on the harness. I have done about a dozen different ones now and they are really not that bad to do, just take your time and pre plan what goes and what doesn't.

LT1 Swap

Vortec 4.8/5.3/6.0 Wiring Harness Info


https://m.facebook.com/media/set/?se...5211824&type=3

I have never used him for ECM tuning/programming as I have a local guy that can remove all the emissions and or Trans for $75 and I can get it same day if I want it bad enough, but from his site I wouldn't have a problem trusting him.
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:11 PM   #190 (permalink)
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Bo185 has some good info on LS swap it's in a Scout II but good info http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/inter...-scout-ii.html

Wayne Hartwig Does PCM tunes and cleaned up wiring harness too http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/motor...-150-life.html
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:51 AM   #191 (permalink)
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My main suggestions are going with the mast oil pan.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/motor...t-oil-pan.html






and a good set of headers.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dte-309-c





Also, if you follow the step by step guide that is on the LT1 Swap site, its really easy to do, then you just have to pick who you want to do your tuning. I did the last one in an evening with the exception of the fuses and relays which I didn't have on hand at the time, and I just haven't had the time to get it done since I got back from the MOAB trip. but for the price they are asking I feel it is well worth it to do it myself, and seeing the quality of your work so far I don't think you would have an issue with it.

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Old 07-09-2015, 01:11 PM   #192 (permalink)
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Thanks for the links and advice guys. I've been planning stuff for this for a while now, have a pretty good idea where I need to go.

I'll work out the wiring mods myself, doesn't seem overly complicated. I have some plans for doing a writeup for how to make a standalone fuse/relay setup using the weatherpack style Bussman sealed fuse/relay blocks: http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46343...bution-Module/


jermarshall, I'll have to wait to drop the motor in to see whether the stock truck pan will work out. I'm pretty sure those headers wouldn't, im planning to try to find some C5 corvette center dump manifolds or just some block hugger type headers.
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:35 PM   #193 (permalink)
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The hardest part on the headers is finding them without the emissions ports on them without spending 800 plus.

On the bussman part, it's probably me and a bunch of other issues I had doing the wiring on the kids 800, but I have had allot of problems getting the relays to stay plugged in, I ended up getting a piece of plastic packing foam that I cut to fit inside the cover and hold the relays in.
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Old 07-10-2015, 08:40 AM   #194 (permalink)
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I've got the motor tucked back into the recess in the firewall pretty tight, I know I'll have to do a bit of work on the firewall to even have room to get the rear most manifold bolt in. On the TBI 350 I have a set of corvette rams horn style manifolds that worked well:


You can also see how a rear dump manifold will need a LOT of firewall work to fit, and in my opinion would cut into already small footwell area too much.

I'll wait to get the new motor in the car and hooked up to see what sort of room I have to work with. These C5 manifolds seem like they'd work well: 01 04 LS1 LS6 C5 Corvette Z06 Exhaust Manifold Casting 12561256 RH Used 01441 | eBay

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Old 07-14-2015, 08:27 PM   #195 (permalink)
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Looking good Dave!
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Old 07-15-2015, 07:08 AM   #196 (permalink)
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I too moved my engine back close to the firewall. I think the best mod was covering part of the firewall and tranny tunnel with insulation and foil tape. It's about 1/4 thick
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Old 07-15-2015, 11:29 AM   #197 (permalink)
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I too moved my engine back close to the firewall. I think the best mod was covering part of the firewall and tranny tunnel with insulation and foil tape. It's about 1/4 thick
I'll be trying Lizardskin + a coat of paint with ceramic microspheres in it (similar to the Lizardskin thermal stuff). We'll see how it does, can add traditional heat insulators later if needed.
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Old 07-15-2015, 02:17 PM   #198 (permalink)
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i did the lizard skin, and it did not cool enough for my 351. It gets pretty dang hot in the cab. I did some heatshielding with just 1/4" nuts as the standoffs where the exhaust pipe runs, and it made a HUGE difference for the boys in the back.
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Old 07-15-2015, 05:57 PM   #199 (permalink)
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Don't forget the temperature and sound proofing on the transmission tunnel, too. My firewall is fine, I have a layer of Dynamat and the heat shield from the PSD donor on the firewall, but my transmisson tunnel gets really hot. I have some heat shield and dynamat for it, but haven't had the energy to pull it out and do it yet.

When I was driving back from Hidden falls (5 hours at 70mph), engine temp was fine at 190*, but I had to stop and get two bags of ice stacked on the trans tunnel to help cool things off in the cab.
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Last edited by guidolyons; 07-17-2015 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 07-15-2015, 07:34 PM   #200 (permalink)
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Awesome feedback guys, thanks. I had planned to coat the trans tunnel cover inside and out, will consider the heat shielding idea around the exhaust as well.

I should have some actual progress to report after this weekend - the wife is taking our son on a day trip and I'm blocking time out to pull the old motor and maybe stab the new one.

Been finding out a lot about clutch/flywheel compatibility with these motors that ill pay up here once it's resolved.

Also finally chopped up the brake mount and got the hydroboost and master cylinder sorted out.
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