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Old 07-16-2015, 01:54 PM   #201 (permalink)
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)uuI did the ceramic bead paint too.
for like $20 I just ordered the beads and mixed it with the "latex" paint. I did 3 coats. Did it work, I'm sure is helped, but as plug said not enough.
it left a slightly sandy texture which was fine. Dried rock hard too.

What would I use if I did it over?
Good question. Thought about using duct board. Only because I have some. Just step on it a few times to get it to comfom to the shape or cut and tape it.

All a moot point as my shift boot is torn
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Old 07-20-2015, 08:21 AM   #202 (permalink)
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Finished mocking up the seat position, shifter and got the Suburban Tilt steering column into place, driving position feels pretty good. Still need to make mounts to bolt down the column and make the seat mounts, I want to tie those into the cage so that may come a ways later. I might shorten the shifter just a bit



Modified brake mounting plate to tilt the hydroboost/master cylinder up enough to clear the top of the inner fender.





I'll use a spindle nut with a modified socket to bolt the HB unit to the mounting plate, so that if I ever need to remove it in the field I'll have the tool with me, rather than using the stock large square nut that came with it.



This past weekend I had a good chunk of time to work so I pulled the old TBI 350 with the help of a friend, and took a first stab at fitting the 5.3. As expected the passenger side motor mount bracket on the frame hits the AC compressor, I had planned to re-make this side anyways. Overall it looks like it'll fit pretty well in the same location as the old motor. I'm hoping to have time to fab the new motor mounts this weekend and get the motor bolted in, then I can start figuring out what'll work for exhaust manifolds.



And lastly a bad shot of the truck at ride height. I pulled the springs that were making it sit high in the front, and am just running a single spring and using the adjuster to set height. Doesn't have the stupid bro-truck stance anymore

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Old 07-20-2015, 04:43 PM   #203 (permalink)
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This past weekend I had a good chunk of time to work so I pulled the old TBI 350 with the help of a friend, and took a first stab at fitting the 5.3. As expected the passenger side motor mount bracket on the frame hits the AC compressor, I had planned to re-make this side anyways. Overall it looks like it'll fit pretty well in the same location as the old motor. I'm hoping to have time to fab the new motor mounts this weekend and get the motor bolted in, then I can start figuring out what'll work for exhaust manifolds.
Look at these Sanderson CC1LS1 Header Set I went with these in my 80 to help with the firewall issue. I still had to notch the firewall but was able to still fit the DBW gas pedal without moving the brake and clutch pedals. If you go this route or with the ram horn manifolds I suggest getting them before redoing your motor mounts. They're very close.
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Old 07-21-2015, 10:29 PM   #204 (permalink)
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Ive been driving a customer scout around and it has no boots over the shifters. Its like having a couple hair dryers on high blowing super hot air into the cab constantly. So yeah, heat shields or matting is a big help, but don't neglect the boots and any other holes you have opened up...
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:53 AM   #205 (permalink)
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Posting some info here for anyone else looking to put a NV4500 (or any other GM manual) behind a 5.3 - info should apply to other Gen III engines too.

Flywheel: Sachs NFW1050
Clutch Kit: Sachs K70318-01
Pilot Bearing: GM 12557583 (Alt: AC Delco CT1082)
Flywheel/Crank Bolts: ARP 330-2802
Pressure Plate Bolts: ARP 134-2201 (Alt: GM 12561465)
Bellhousing Bolts: ARP 134-0901

After buying and returning the wrong parts I've figured out that Rock Auto lists the wrong clutch kit (LUK 04-021) for a 2004 Silverado 2500 with the 6.0 V8, even though they list the same flywheel as the Silverado 1500 with the 4.8.

The correct clutch kit that will bolt up to the Sachs NFW1050 flywheel and index properly on the dowel pins is Sachs P/N K70318-01.

Application is a 2004 Silverado 1500 4.8 w/ manual trans. Its a big (12") clutch that matches the friction surface of the NFW1050 flywheel, and has the typical GM 10 spline input.

I know i've read of people pulling the dowel pins out of the NFW1050 flywheel and bolting the older style pressure plate up, but in my opinion this is a pretty dumb idea because the pressure plate isn't located on the shoulder of the mounting bolts like it would be on a SBC flywheel. The metric pressure plate bolts used with LS flywheels don't have a shoulder to locate the pressure plate like the older 3/8-16 SBC pressure plate bolts do, so you'd be relying on a thin sheet metal section bearing against the thread. Again, just my opinion, but its not something I'd try.
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Old 07-22-2015, 05:24 PM   #206 (permalink)
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That's some good info. Looks like you made good use of the garage time.

Rock Auto is great until they send you the wrong parts or the parts don't fit, then they suck. Well, according to our database, we sent you the correct parts, so we won't pay for return shipping...if you want a refund send it back on your dime.
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:54 PM   #207 (permalink)
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That's some good info. Looks like you made good use of the garage time.

Rock Auto is great until they send you the wrong parts or the parts don't fit, then they suck. Well, according to our database, we sent you the correct parts, so we won't pay for return shipping...if you want a refund send it back on your dime.
Yup, I learned that lesson a while ago so I now use Rock Auto to look up part numbers to buy from Amazon returns don't get easier.
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Old 07-23-2015, 12:52 PM   #208 (permalink)
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I'll use a spindle nut with a modified socket to bolt the HB unit to the mounting plate, so that if I ever need to remove it in the field I'll have the tool with me, rather than using the stock large square nut that came with it.
Nice! I like that! Learn something new everyday...

Is there still enough room for the c-clip?

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Old 07-27-2015, 07:07 AM   #209 (permalink)
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Yep there's room for the clip, the spindle nut is about the same thickness as the stock square nut.
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Old 07-28-2015, 12:07 PM   #210 (permalink)
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was doing some digging around on some stuff for the kids rig and came across a 6.2/4l80 swap into a scout 2 over on that "other" board and ended up coming across these. Seem like they are pretty decent and dump about like you want.

Scout LS Parts - Stainless Steel Headers | Anything Scout
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Old 07-28-2015, 02:39 PM   #211 (permalink)
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WHOA WHOA WHOA - What the hell is going on here, a nice looking part from a Scout specialty shop that is reasonably priced?

Good find on that one, that might work out pretty well.

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Old 07-28-2015, 03:20 PM   #212 (permalink)
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I know, i couldn't believe the price on those with where they were listed at. For a center dump that's the best deal I have seen so far, only thing I dont like about them is they don't say weather they are coated or not, but thats easily fixed if not.

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Ex...477cd298d17806

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Old 07-29-2015, 10:37 PM   #213 (permalink)
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Says right in the ad:
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Our supplier is currently out of the stainless steel headers, so for the time being we will upgrade your order to ceramic coated headers for no additional cost.
Not sure if that means you get upgraded to ceramic coated SS headers for waiting, but I think it means you get plain steel ceramic coated headers in lieu of...
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Old 07-30-2015, 05:57 AM   #214 (permalink)
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I swear that wasn't there the otherday. It must have magically appeared.
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:30 AM   #215 (permalink)
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I'm OK with plain steel with the coating, ordered them this morning. Thanks for finding that deal jermarshall, still a solid price for a coated steel part compared to what I've been finding.

Got the motor mount plates bolted on the motor and it looks like that type of block hugger will work well, but I won't really know till I get them in hand.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:53 PM   #216 (permalink)
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Headers showed up today - OK quality, about what I expect from cheap-ish headers. The coating is pretty decent.

Sticker inside the box says PC5075CER, which links back to the cheap ebay headers: Chevy LS1 LS6 Block Hugger Ceramic Exhaust Headers | eBay

Guess if I did it again I'd go for the stainless ones they sell: Chevy LS1 LS6 Block Hugger Stainless Steel Exhaust Headers | eBay

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Old 08-10-2015, 12:48 PM   #217 (permalink)
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Ugh, I feel like these updates suck lately, but as some of you know babies are a bit of a time sink.

Motor is in and bolted up to the transmission. I built new motor mounts, the drivers side matches the location of the existing frame side motor mount (for the old TBI 350), the passenger side is more like a normal LS motor mount to clear the AC compressor. I didn't like the original mount I'd built off the frame on that side anyways, so it was an opportunity to re-make it better.



Been using the TIG welder everywhere I can, I'm no pro but I'm happy with how these turned out.


I got sick of dealing with the inner fenders, so I made them removable. I thought this was going to be trickier than it was, I really should have just done this years ago. I drilled out the spot welds along the 3 seams, and then cut the outside surface of the inner fender (which is 1 piece) at the seam along the line of the firewall. I will weld nuts to the backside of the seams and bolt through the spot weld holes to reattach. I'll probably build the new core support to also support/locate the ends of the fenders and grille.

A tip - if you cant easily find the spot welds, sanding off the paint along the seam will make them stand out pretty well.



Another plug for the Rotabroach cutters, they do such a clean job on sheet metal. I've used my small set enough by now to justify spending the money for the larger set to replace all of the hole saws I used to use.





Inner fender


Clearance issues:
I'm not sure the stock truck AC compressor (specifically the tensioner) is going to work out, it hangs down lower than the crank pulley and might get friendly with my panhard bar. I need to make time to cycle the front suspension and make the decision, it should be simple to relocate the AC compressor (Novak makes a nice looking kit that uses the old style AC compressor: Air Conditioning Compressor Relocation - Novak Conversions).

The passenger side motor mount needs to move forward a bit more, the header flange just hits it. Not a big deal, I can move the mount forward and inch easily and have lots of clearance.


The firewall needs clearance on both sides, as expected. The SBC I had used rams-horn exhaust manifolds that were a bit lower profile. Not really a big deal, and a whole lot easier to do without the stupid fenders in the way.

Drivers side is the worst


Passenger Side


Current plan is to make enough clearance for the header tube plus a heatshield. Not sure if I want the heatshield mounted to the header (like this stuff Thermo-Tec : Stainless Steel Clamp-On Heat Shield) or to the firewall (https://www.designengineering.com//c...-sound-insulat).
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Old 08-10-2015, 03:48 PM   #218 (permalink)
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Well that sucks the same headers are cheaper on Ebay You're getting a lot done for a guy with a newborn.
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Old 08-10-2015, 03:57 PM   #219 (permalink)
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Well that sucks the same headers are cheaper on Ebay You're getting a lot done for a guy with a newborn.
To be fair, the ebay ones don't include manifold & collector gaskets and the header stud kit included by Anything Scout. I'm not stressing about it.
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Old 08-10-2015, 06:12 PM   #220 (permalink)
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Wow removing those inner fender panels gives you tons of room to work!
Progress looks good.
Take a picture of the baby every month for the first 2 years, you will be amazed at how much they change.
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Old 08-10-2015, 10:01 PM   #221 (permalink)
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So pretty much punch out the spot welds and continue the cut along the lower line to the top like this? Off to look into Rotabroach cutters.
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:34 AM   #222 (permalink)
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So pretty much punch out the spot welds and continue the cut along the lower line to the top like this? Off to look into Rotabroach cutters.
Yup, the red line is pretty well exactly where I cut.

I'll weld a nut to the backside of the flange and bolt them back on, probably use something like this McMaster-Carr or this McMaster-Carr
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:58 AM   #223 (permalink)
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looking good. I was going to run the inner fender also,it became a hassle . I would think it would help with heat if you didn't use them.
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Old 08-11-2015, 07:58 AM   #224 (permalink)
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The weld on ones are pretty nice. I am pretty fond of 1/4-20 nutcerts myself, looks like you could just pop them in each hole where the welds are drilled out.
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Old 08-11-2015, 08:01 AM   #225 (permalink)
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The weld on ones are pretty nice. I am pretty fond of 1/4-20 nutcerts myself, looks like you could just pop them in each hole where the welds are drilled out.
I could do Rivnuts (Nutcerts). The stupid engineer in me wants the hardware to be the same as the fenders, which for some unfathomable reason are 5/16-24 (fine thread).
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