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Old 03-01-2017, 08:38 PM   #251 (permalink)
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thats what I wanted to hear. I just don't wanna spend all the money on air bumps, coilovers, and springs and end up with wrong springs and have to keep spending money. I do like to go as fast as the truck will go for short spurts. I had my old scout on leaf springs and 40's to 85 on the flats at sandlake. was never scared of how it rode but just the thought of rolling that fast.
Looked like a good trip to Browns camp
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Old 04-14-2017, 10:00 PM   #252 (permalink)
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Little update

I am having some drive line vibrations and in early March I took a Super Duty CV and went after it with a die grinder, spend about 6 hours working it over, but I got a lot more angle out of it. Shortened it up and got it installed. Rolled the pinion up as much as I could by just adjusting the links and it is working great. I still have some vibs in the front up around 45 ish, but I will get to those when I can. We made a day trip to sand lake and it was night and day better. Weather was absolutely shitty, ended up calling it a day pretty early.







After that I spent a little time on it getting the rear light bar wired up, added some interior lights and 2 more flush mounts to the front bumper.







They put out allot of light and are pretty cheap. I picked up another set to put in the rear face of the bed on the truck, I have a set on the headache rack, but the bed cuts the light off at the back and you can see a dang thing around the hitch or the tongue of a trailer in the dark. Hoping to be able to possible squeeze in installing those on nights this weekend.


When the kid was home and we made the trip up in the snow, I tried to get her to drive some, but we ran into a problem..... she couldn't reach the pedals... . With my knee's I tend to sit close to the wheel to keep a bend in them, it seems to keep them from hurting as much, but even then it turns out that neither of the 3 kids could reach the pedals with the harness on. To try and get them some seat time I went ahead and ordered up a set of sliders for it. So far I have only installed the set for the driver side, I am not sure if I am going to put the set for the passenger side in it, or save them for when I get around to putting a cage in the 800 for her, someday...

I have also been unhappy with the viability. I was struggling to see over the nose and was always sticking my head out the door so I could see where I was going, so when I installed them I set the seat up another 2 inches higher than it was. It made a huge difference.



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Old 04-14-2017, 10:00 PM   #253 (permalink)
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I then started in on trying to get the front sheet metal on it. I got the fenders mostly figured out and then cut the grill down on it. I ended up taking 22" out of it. Sticking sheet metal back together is not something I am really good at though. I started to weld it back together and it was not going good so I handed it off to a buddy of mine who builds allot of custom classic car stuff. He is a little slammed right now so it will take a little while to get it back from him though, but I am not worried, would rather it come out looking good than anything else.














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What ever you do, please do not suck start a shot gun.

Stick it up your ass...that way you're likely to hit something vital.
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Old 04-14-2017, 10:00 PM   #254 (permalink)
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This last weekend we made a trip down to East Fort Rock just outside of Bend. Spent some time playing around at Ground Hog OHV. Didn't really get any pic's though. Finally had some issues though. I was still running the screw together hoses on the steering that came with the kit from PSC. I was the only rig there the first night, and we went for a quick little run down to the play area from camp and the high pressure line that comes out of the hydro boost and goes to the orbital started pushing out of the fitting and leaking like crazy. I was able to drive it back to camp, about 2 miles, but I all but lost all steering by the 1 mile point. Turn the wheel like crazy and it would just barley turn, get into a corner and go until I was in the ditch, throw it in reverse and turn the other way and it would tun the wheels to full lock and let me be able to back up until the front was pointed the way I needed to go. Go back to forward and it would pull the tires back straight between powering it with throttle and the very limited input I could get from the steering wheel. Rinse and repeat. I was able to get a text out to the guy coming up in the morning to bring me a hacksaw and I was able to trim it up and get going again, but it was already pushing it back out and leaking Sunday morning. I was finally able to get over to the hydraulic shop before work today and had a whole new set of the high pressure hoses made up for it.

The issue with the eco box kicking out of gear also started getting allot worse. Along with pulling off all the hoses this week we got the cases pulled out of it and opened it up so I could measure the shifting collar. Emailing back and forth with NWfab they said that there was 2 different gear sets depending on if it was a manual shift or electric shift transfer case. For the life of me I thought I pulled them from a manual shit NP241 so they should be the right ones, but after getting it pulled apart and measuring them, it measures out to not be the right gears from either of those two from the dimensions he gave me. . Not sure what case I got them out of now, or if they got mixed up with a different set over the time I gutted the case and actually got around to putting the Eco box together. The manual shift collar should be 2.41" and the electric one should be 1.96", the one in it measure out at 2.08



The planatary's are "OK" but I was going to swap them out anyways since they are showing a little bit of rounding on the teeth , but the other NP241 I had seems to have grown a set of legs and walked off. All I have left is two NP231's under the bench, one of which is a passenger drop that I dont want to cut up yet, so I will tear the other one apart and use the collar out of it and just reuse the planatary's that are in it for now.


Here is one pic from this last weekend. This is just after my passenger bailed on me . The pic really doesn't do very good as showing how far I was lay'd over.




I really do need to get the door bars done though.......
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Old 04-15-2017, 03:38 AM   #255 (permalink)
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Great work man


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Old 04-16-2017, 06:54 AM   #256 (permalink)
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Cool! Can't wait to see the body on it.
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Old 04-17-2017, 11:56 AM   #257 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jemarshall View Post
Here is one pic from this last weekend. This is just after my passenger bailed on me . The pic really doesn't do very good as showing how far I was lay'd over.




I really do need to get the door bars done though.......
Door bars are definitely needed given the capability of your rig. That thing is pretty capable.
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Old 04-17-2017, 06:22 PM   #258 (permalink)
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ya, I was trying to put it off until winter. I need to move the tank and add the X and a couple of things, was going to try and do it all at the same time and tie it in together some, but I am not sure I can wait that long.....
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:27 AM   #259 (permalink)
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So I was able to get the Eco box back together yesterday and the cases bolted up to the back of the transmission. I made that thing a tighter fit than I thought , it was much easier to get the transmission and cases in the rig as a unit.

The 231 that I had stuffed under the bench was a 231 HD, so it did have a 6 planetary gear set in it. I had to swap out the input of the planetary's to the 32 spline one from the one I pulled out, but this way I was able to get rid of the rounded off teeth.

There were some differences in the cut of the internal teeth but I don't think its going to cause any problems. The ones I had were cut with a ramp to them, and the 231 were cut to a point like and older manual transmission.


This is the back side of the 32 spline input, you can see the ramp cut to the teeth on it.




This is the back side of the 231 input, it has the older point type gear teeth cut to it.





The shift collar that came out of it with the matching ramp style cut to the teeth.





The shift collar from the 231





Shot showing the difference in height between the two shift collars. The taller collar does measure out exactly at the 2.41" that NWfab says is required.






This one shows where the back side of the teeth were rounding off. With the shorter shift collar it was essentially shifting past the teeth on the gear. It was barley catching the teeth and held up for a little bit, but it started rounding off the teeth at KOH and did not want to stay engaged anymore.




The 231 gear set I used for comparison.





And this is as far I as got it last night before having to head in. Now its back to work for another set of 8 shifts. Back on the mounts and filled up with fluid.

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