Ground Breaker - Page 3 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > International Harvester
Notices

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-06-2015, 09:08 AM   #51 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Member # 137726
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 461
Nice build so far, bummer those headers didn't work out, they looked really nice!

Have you looked at front axle clearance with the motor that low? It may just be the angle of the photos but it looks like you could easily raise the motor a few inches and gain some uptravel for the front axle.

I set mine up so that the steering links are damn near touching the bottom of the frame when the axle is at full stuff, I wanted as much uptravel as I could without making big changes to the frame, to try to keep the truck low. I also set the motor as high and far abck as I could without having to remake the entire trans tunnel, but this may be pretty different between a Scout 80 and a Scout II.

Anyways keep up the good work.
MotoDave is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2015, 09:24 AM   #52 (permalink)
Registered User
 
larboc@hotmail.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Member # 70148
Location: da U.P. of MI eh?
Posts: 3,228
Quote:
Originally Posted by jemarshall View Post
Ruff location of the transfer case's




Got the body back off and out of the way for now and then centered up the rear output again. This is just about exactly where it will be sitting once I get the mounts for it made up.














After having issues with my last doubler coming loose and the number of broken trans case's and adapters I have seen lately I have put allot of time into researching the mounts for the transfer case's. It seems that the breakage is a common problem with using two cross members to support the back end. Its just too many contact points and different amounts of movement and it just tears thins apart. I am planning on making a cradle set up that will attach to both the rear transmission mount and the rear of the 205, but will only have one mounting point on each side instead of two. This should support everything nicely but allow it to mover enough throughout the whole package that it does not try tearing itself apart. I had come across a pic of a setup I liked and have something simulare in my head but I can not seem to find the pictures again. What I am envisioning is a oval made out of tubing the both of the mounts will go to and then a leg coming off of each side up the the frame. Will have to see how it comes out.

Something allot like this but with only single bars coming off each side up to the frame.




The part I am fighting with in my head is how I want to mount the 205 to the cradle. Using a mount to the center rear output, using the offset style that covers the aluminum rear plate or both???? The one catch is the cable shifter mount will play a little bit of havok with the plate mount over the aluminum cover so I am leaning more towards the rear output mount.

Thinking of getting this one and modifying it to the right length to work and just leaving the front output side do its thing for now and see what happens.

I machined my 205 and made new shift rails so that it shifts from behind. Was pretty easy to do, just 3/4" cold rolled rod IIRC. Not sure if it would help you or not.
__________________
I don't pay nothing for anything.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
larboc@hotmail.com is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 11-06-2015, 09:32 AM   #53 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoDave View Post
Nice build so far, bummer those headers didn't work out, they looked really nice!

Have you looked at front axle clearance with the motor that low? It may just be the angle of the photos but it looks like you could easily raise the motor a few inches and gain some uptravel for the front axle.

I set mine up so that the steering links are damn near touching the bottom of the frame when the axle is at full stuff, I wanted as much uptravel as I could without making big changes to the frame, to try to keep the truck low. I also set the motor as high and far abck as I could without having to remake the entire trans tunnel, but this may be pretty different between a Scout 80 and a Scout II.

Anyways keep up the good work.
Thanks.

The headers really sucked, I did not want to have to go with a different set and burnt up several hours trying to shoe horn them in where I could make them work and be happy about it. I ended up ordering the set you went with on your and put these one up for sale already, even taking a hit on the cost of these ones I will come out money ahead with the price difference. The main thing I wanted was the rearward angled dump to help fit all the crap in that's going to be right in that area with the drive line running right thought there also.

I am going to be full hydro on steering so it wont be as tight fighting the steering linkages in there, but its going to be fun getting the links to fit with the drive line also. One of the main goals was to get the motor as low and as far back as I could and for stability and weight. I am planning on pushing the front axle forward to clear everything or give me the room I need if I have too. Will see how it all starts to fit once I can get the front and rear ends back down from upstairs and set them under it so I can then sit there and stare at it for hours tring to figure out how to work around my fuck ups so far.
jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 11-06-2015, 09:51 AM   #54 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
Quote:
Originally Posted by larboc@hotmail.com View Post
I machined my 205 and made new shift rails so that it shifts from behind. Was pretty easy to do, just 3/4" cold rolled rod IIRC. Not sure if it would help you or not.
I have a set of JB Custom Fab's cable shifters I am going to be running. Was able to get a pretty good deal on the set up by ordering the Eco box through him and everything else since he is set up as a vendor for NWFab, and they make a really high quality product. I have a set of NWFab cables on the other doubler I ran and then put in the kids rig that I liked and they worked really well, but they are not half the quality of these ones.



Part of the deal on them was that he had never had his hands on an Eco box to build the mounts for the shifter's and he used mine to design it and now has them for sale. Pretty simplistic but very nice set-up.

jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2015, 12:33 PM   #55 (permalink)
Addicted to Gear Oil
 
guidolyons's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 56050
Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Posts: 5,779
I was going to suggest you use the two threaded bosses on the 205, but you cut them off

I'm in the hard mount crossmember with a center mount for the transmission and transfercase. I like the TMR style mount that bolts to the rear of the 205.

On my Scout I used the stock Ford crossmember for the transmission mount and the mounting feet on the Jed's Doubler between the 203 and the 205 as my transfercase mount. It's just a pice of 3" C-channel with two CJ polyurethane pucks for the transfercase mount. I didn't want the 203/205 doubler just hanging off the back with no support.

Been working great.

Name:  IMG_0935a.jpg
Views: 924
Size:  66.0 KB

Name:  IMG_0936a.jpg
Views: 928
Size:  68.5 KB
__________________
1965 Scout 80 7.3PSD/ZF/203/205 D60F/14BFF
Member: 4 Jackstand Wheeler's Association
Quote:
Originally Posted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower
History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

For the best deal on 8 lug disc brakes click here-->
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by guidolyons; 11-09-2015 at 12:35 PM.
guidolyons is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2015, 02:48 AM   #56 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
Quote:
Originally Posted by guidolyons View Post
I was going to suggest you use the two threaded bosses on the 205, but you cut them off
Yup, clocked that thing up far enough if I hadn't they would be shoved up my ass.

Got some time in on the cross member tonight but didn't get it finished. I need to pick up a piece of square tube to make the piece that will bolt to the trans out of.

I ended up going with hard mounted to frame rails and going polly mounts on rear of the 205 and to the trans mount.

On the rear I made up my own plate to go over the rear aluminum cover. Used the plasma compass and the punch at work. Took me less than 20 min to make it. Its not as beautiful as if it was done on a table but I didn't pay $75 plus shipping for it either.

Bent up some tube to make a hoop to go under everything, talk about a mother fucker that was. Then just made some short sections to stand it off the frame rails and a stanchion that comes up to hold the bushing centered over the rear plate.










Bolted the cable shifter mount onto the studs I put in and marked where it overlapped the plate. Took the grinder to it and got it trimmed down and welded to the edge of it. Tossed a longer bolt and a nut on it where it bolts to the rear output. Worked out really good.




On the front mount I am going to take a piece of 1 1/2 x 2 square tube and bolt it to the trans and then I will notch a short tube to go between it and the bushing. I think it should work pretty good. Its main job is just support, the mount on the back of the 205 will handle 90% of the torque twisting.




Its at least sitting in the frame without anything holding it up besides its own mounts now. and the new headers will be in tomorrow so I can get them set on to see if I have to adjust the motor mounts at all.

Last edited by jemarshall; 11-10-2015 at 02:51 AM.
jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2015, 08:16 AM   #57 (permalink)
Registered User
 
larboc@hotmail.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Member # 70148
Location: da U.P. of MI eh?
Posts: 3,228
I hope that welding in your cross member doesn't come back to bite you.
__________________
I don't pay nothing for anything.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
larboc@hotmail.com is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2015, 02:37 PM   #58 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
Quote:
Originally Posted by larboc@hotmail.com View Post
I hope that welding in your cross member doesn't come back to bite you.
I am pretty sure it will. I already had to resign myself to the decision the trans and transfers will have to go up to come out. There is just going to be too much crap shoved in this thing to not have to make some concession on something.

Last edited by jemarshall; 11-10-2015 at 02:37 PM.
jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2015, 03:28 PM   #59 (permalink)
Granite Guru
 
LibertySand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Member # 178400
Location: Montclair, CA
Posts: 745
Send a message via AIM to LibertySand
Quote:
Originally Posted by jemarshall View Post
I have a set of JB Custom Fab's cable shifters I am going to be running......

HELL YA! Those are sweet!
__________________
You are my Crumple Zone!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
LibertySand is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2015, 05:50 PM   #60 (permalink)
Addicted to Gear Oil
 
guidolyons's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 56050
Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Posts: 5,779
Quote:
Originally Posted by jemarshall View Post
I am pretty sure it will. I already had to resign myself to the decision the trans and transfers will have to go up to come out.
With the 205 mount there on the back, can you even slide it back far enough to get it off the input shaft?

You might want to add some tube clamps, flange, or some other removeable method to drop that crossmember.


Name:  R1238-full.jpg
Views: 896
Size:  10.1 KB

Name:  R1238 22.jpg
Views: 891
Size:  59.3 KB

Name:  R2073-full.jpg
Views: 913
Size:  11.6 KB
__________________
1965 Scout 80 7.3PSD/ZF/203/205 D60F/14BFF
Member: 4 Jackstand Wheeler's Association
Quote:
Originally Posted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower
History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

For the best deal on 8 lug disc brakes click here-->
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
guidolyons is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2015, 06:27 PM   #61 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
Quote:
Originally Posted by guidolyons View Post
With the 205 mount there on the back, can you even slide it back far enough to get it off the input shaft?
There is enough room to slide it back if I pull the rear bushing and plate off. The plan is the add one of the bolt together style tube claps to the stanchion that goes up latter. Really wanted to put them on the four pieces that go to the frame but there was just not enough room to fit them in there, and I don't think the Flat flange style would be strong enough in that location with it taking hits from rocks.



I will add one of these low down on the stantchion latter.



http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/inde...products_id=65

Last edited by jemarshall; 11-10-2015 at 06:30 PM.
jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2015, 06:38 PM   #62 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
Before work I was able to make a quick run and pick pup a piece of square tube and make up the part of the front mount that will bolt to the trans. Stopped by the plant and punched the holes in it on the drill press and sheered out two pieces of plate to box in the ends. I had to notch out a section in the middle to clear one of the bolts from the trans adapter to the Eco box. Came out pretty good. Need to pick up a couple tabs the have the V notch in the instead of the round notch so I can mount the bushing to it, then I will use a short piece of tube to mount it to the cross member.





jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-11-2015, 07:01 PM   #63 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
I was able to run and get the tabs picked up and finished up before work today.



The new headers also showed up and I was able to play with them a little.

The passenger side is a little tight but will be good.






The driver side has allot of room on the mount.




But I ran into another problem with them. It looks like the flange was layed upside down when the tubes's were welded to it so the center two bolts do not line up. You can see in the photo were the flange edge should have been. Looking at it, if I re-drilled it would put it really close to the edge and with that much material missing I think it would be prone to warping.



Here is one I snagged from motodave's that shows how it should be.




I already sent out a message to them about it being wrong and will see what they have to say.
jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-12-2015, 10:01 AM   #64 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Member # 137726
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 461
Now you've got me wondering about my headers. I'll double check tonight that they are all oriented properly.

I might have missed it - do you have any info on the York Compressor mount bracket?
MotoDave is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-12-2015, 03:41 PM   #65 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoDave View Post
Now you've got me wondering about my headers. I'll double check tonight that they are all oriented properly.

I might have missed it - do you have any info on the York Compressor mount bracket?
The last pic in the post aboveis is of yours, they are correct. Used to to verify against mine.

It's from goat built. Really nice bracket.

Goat Built - GM LS Truck York Air Compressor Mount, Passenger Side

I would have to double check but I think the price was raised on it.
jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2015, 07:18 AM   #66 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
Spent the weekend playing with getting the links all figured out, I think I have them right where I want them. I ended up at 115" wheelbase and 25" to the frame at ride height.

Front numbers




Rear Number




I got everything laid out in PVC, just need to pick up a couple tabs to finish off the front uppers.






Will have the piece's for the permanent uprights cut out on a table and then I will bend them out to what I figured out for the upper brackets.








Last edited by jemarshall; 11-16-2015 at 07:21 AM.
jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2015, 07:22 AM   #67 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
Drive line clearance at full bump




At Ride Height





and full droop



While playing with the links and getting my wheelbase set I went shorter than I had originally planned. Was shooting for 120" like I ran on the last rig but playing with it I decided to go with 115". This put my rear lower center mount farther forward than I had anticipated and it needs to be right where the rear bar of the cross member I made is at. The cross member was only made out of .188 wall so I am going to cut it all out and redo it with .25 wall for mounting the links too. A little step back but after looking at it for a while I think I can do a better and simpler job than I did the first time.
jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2015, 10:27 AM   #68 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Member # 16680
Location: Rocklin
Posts: 3,500
how much AS will you be able to have when adjusted so? I think Im at around 88 in the rear and have liked it quite a bit. Actually wish I could bump it up some, closer to 100 to try
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
plug ugly is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2015, 10:58 AM   #69 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
Quote:
Originally Posted by plug ugly View Post
how much AS will you be able to have when adjusted so? I think Im at around 88 in the rear and have liked it quite a bit. Actually wish I could bump it up some, closer to 100 to try
I don't have it written down anywhere so I am not 100% sure on the distance on the holes in the bracket but 1.5" is what seems to be stuck in my head. If that's right moving to the lower hole moves AS to 100% and going to the upper hole would make it 51%. I was shooting for a number in the 70's at ride height as 100% is neutral and I wold prefer it to squat under hard throttle or climbing than having it trying to lift the rear up. I do need to verify one of my measurements on the rear when I get home though. It was pointed out by someone else that I have the axle end lower link at 21 and I "know" I set that at 21.5" when I was taching everything in looking at ground clearances and everything. That .5" changes the AS allot when I put it in the calculator though too.
jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2015, 11:11 AM   #70 (permalink)
Brakes slo you down
 
Juicysluice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Member # 481234
Location: Utahaha
Posts: 1,287
Answers many of my questions. That scout frame is a pretty good canvas to build from, unlike my Ford frame. I think you should lower the rear uppers at the frame even still. I see why you can't lower the lower links frame side. You already built a flat belly. Looks good so far.

Been awhile since I checked in the IH section. I get tired of the lame threads in every forum and don't check in for a awhile.
Juicysluice is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2015, 11:28 AM   #71 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
Quote:
Originally Posted by Juicysluice View Post
Answers many of my questions. That scout frame is a pretty good canvas to build from, unlike my Ford frame. I think you should lower the rear uppers at the frame even still. I see why you can't lower the lower links frame side. You already built a flat belly. Looks good so far.

Been awhile since I checked in the IH section. I get tired of the lame threads in every forum and don't check in for a awhile.
The lame threads are rampant, not allot has been going on anywhere lately. I really did almost put this in Gen Tech but finally decided to go here with it.

I am looking at dropping the rear now to match the front height and building a complete lower sub frame to it. Will add a little more room for exhaust and other plumbing. Trying to envision how I can keep an air gap between the frame and subframe for air flow/cooling under the floor boards.

And thank you.

Last edited by jemarshall; 11-16-2015 at 11:29 AM.
jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2015, 12:08 PM   #72 (permalink)
no strings on me
 
YellowIH's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Member # 12036
Location: TN
Posts: 3,543
Nice metal work on the axles and working the truss for the front ford 60.
__________________
/ SS'd 73 IH Scout II & stuff / Μολὼν λάβε /
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/ Resident Attorney at Law
YellowIH is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2015, 12:58 PM   #73 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
Quote:
Originally Posted by YellowIH View Post
Nice metal work on the axles and working the truss for the front ford 60.
Thanks. The truss wasn't to bad to cut down after I sat and stared at it and figured out the best place to take out what I needed to loose from it. The C on the other hand kicked my ass a little bit. I slid it on and was working to try and get it lined up before it cooled to much and just barley tapped it with my forearm. You can still see where it burnt me, and by the time I stopped cussing and jumping around that bastard had set. It took 4 of up to get that thing to rotate with heat and hammers and get the castor set right.
jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2015, 05:13 PM   #74 (permalink)
Brakes slo you down
 
Juicysluice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Member # 481234
Location: Utahaha
Posts: 1,287
Mine naturally has a gap between the curves of the Ford rails and my 2"x belly. I'm placing the radiator behind the cab and want the fan to pull the air from the belly. Should be a cool idea. Hahaha. Maybe you could get creative with a shape, design, cutout, whatever in the Scout rails after you construct a subframe???
Juicysluice is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2015, 05:25 PM   #75 (permalink)
Rock God
 
jemarshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50690
Location: Rainier, OR
Posts: 1,251
Send a message via MSN to jemarshall
Quote:
Originally Posted by Juicysluice View Post
Mine naturally has a gap between the curves of the Ford rails and my 2"x belly. I'm placing the radiator behind the cab and want the fan to pull the air from the belly. Should be a cool idea. Hahaha. Maybe you could get creative with a shape, design, cutout, whatever in the Scout rails after you construct a subframe???
That is a possibility, Drawing the air from below should work, the temp of the incoming air would be the main thing. If it couldn't get enough to come in from the sides it will be pretty warm to start with.
jemarshall is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:29 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.