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Old 04-05-2016, 09:22 PM   #126 (permalink)
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I then moved on to cutting off the three bolt flanges on the headers and getting the exhaust V band flanges welded on. The welds turned out looking like crap, but I am not totally unhappy with them, this is the first time I have run a tig in about 20 years, so I think I did ok. Pretty sure they wont leak at all.





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Old 04-05-2016, 09:22 PM   #127 (permalink)
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I then started looking at the transmission. The 6.0 came with a 4wd 4l80 that didn't have the rear tone ring in it, but I had a 2wd one from a 96 2500 6.5 I pulled the motor out of to swap into a different truck sitting in the corner. It came up in a different thread that the output shafts were splind all the way on the 2wd ones and could just be cut down and used as a 4wd without dismantling it. Pulled the tail housing off and it all looked good. Put the 4wd adapter on it and measured it for length and trimmed it off and cleaned it up. There was a little bit of a difference in the shaft right at the trans that wouldn't let the eco box pull all the way up. I had about 3/16 gap between the flanges. I trimmed the snout of the planetary input on the eco box 1/4 to clear. I figured a 1/16th, plus the gasket I haven't put in yet would give it enough clearance. The 2wd trans is supposed to have under 5000 miles on it so I will just run it for now, and have the other one rebuilt to be swapped in latter, when its easier on the budget. I already have a 4wd output shaft with a tone ring on it for it hen it goes in.

2wd output shaft. The 4wd one does not have that little section where its tapered.




2wd bell housing and torque converter. It uses the exact same torque converter so I just left the one that was on it in it for now. The older bell housing doesn't have the top bolt hole in it which I am not worried about. The back of the 6.0 also doesn't have the top most passenger side bolt hole drilled and tapped in the block. The boss is there for it, for some reason they just didn't actually put the hole and threads in it. I guess this is pretty common. I hit it with a transfer punch, but am waiting until the next time I separate them and then will drill and tap it.




The 4wd bell housing and torque converter.




Got it all put back together for now and then stripped the accessories off of the motor and started plugging all the holes. I had to pick up a plug for the speedo output and plug for the transmission lines today, but the plan is to get it rolled outside on my 1 day off next Sunday and pressure wash the crap out of it.



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Old 04-05-2016, 09:22 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Another issue I have been ignoring for a while is the heads on this thing. It has 2 broken exhaust bolts in the passenger head and 1 previously fixed hole that has a heli coil in it. The drivers side head also has 2 broken bolts and 2 of the holes had previously fixed. With this being an iron headed motor, its not nearly as easy to just weld a nut to them and do the extraction. They also got the two on the driver side all messed up. I think the tried to drill them in the truck and the holes are not straight anymore. I have been going over what I wanted to do for months. Just to try and fix them myself, pull them and send them to a shop, or just get different heads. I don't like the first one, and the second one will be spendy. Also if I pull the heads, I might as well upgrade, so I have been looking and researching whats available and easy. What I have finally decided was to go with a set of stock 799 heads which come stock on 05 and up 4.8/5.3 trucks. They are essentially same as the highly sought after 243 heads except they don't have the heavy corvette springs, and the hollow sodium filled valves. The casting are the same, but less money, you can pick up a set of used good 799's for under 4 hundred. They do need to be shaved a little to bump the compression back up the what the stock heads are at due to differences in piston top design. I consider that a wash since either way any of the heads would be decked for true at a minimum. This is supposed to be in the 30 ish HP gains with no other changes and it drops about 40 lbs a head.


Stock head specs.

Casting Number 873
Head: 1999-2000 LQ4 6.0 Liter Truck
Material: ***Cast Iron***
Part Number:
12561873
Combustion Chamber Volume: 71.06cc
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Intake Port Volume: 210cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 75cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 2.00 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches



243/799 Head Specs

Casting Number 243
Head: 2001 LS6 5.7 Liter Passenger Car
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12564243
Combustion Chamber Volume: 64.45cc
Compression Ratio: 10.5:1
Intake Port Volume: 210cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 75cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 2.00 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches

Stock Head Flow Numbers
Chamber 64.45 cc-------0.100---0.200--0.300--0.400---0.500---0.550---0.600
Intake 210 cc------------62------126----184----224-----251----256----257
Exhaust 75 cc------------57------108----143----163-----176----180----183
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Old 04-06-2016, 04:16 AM   #129 (permalink)
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Putting this here for latter:


The 6.5 turbo diesel and 454 were said to have gotten the low stall which should stall at roughly 1700-1900, medium stall was for some 305's and 350's and stalls right around 2100, and the high stall was for the special order one tons with 4.3L V-6's and some 305's and was said to stall at 2300-2400
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:52 AM   #130 (permalink)
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It's back.
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Old 04-10-2016, 02:04 PM   #131 (permalink)
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John another head to look at would be l92, ls3 heads. They can be had for aroun $500 on ls1 tech. It's pretty easy to get 530-550 hp with these heads and a nice cam, you can find a l92 truck intake for cheap.
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:16 AM   #132 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jrad12381 View Post
John another head to look at would be l92, ls3 heads. They can be had for aroun $500 on ls1 tech. It's pretty easy to get 530-550 hp with these heads and a nice cam, you can find a l92 truck intake for cheap.
Now that is interesting. The casting numbers on those are 821 for LS3, and 823 or 5364 for the L92. Same head design, but different vales and springs between the LS3 and L92. In all the digging I was doing before I never did come across any info on those, but what I can find so far with a quick look, looks good. Ill see what I can dig up for comparisons between them all. Thanks for the info .
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Old 04-11-2016, 11:17 AM   #133 (permalink)
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John I have the 5374, make great power they do have heavier valves but with the right springs they are actually better because they are solid and more durable. All the castings above are rectangular port. A cathedral port head does give a bit more midrange and quicker response when set up right. Just something to chew on.
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Old 04-11-2016, 04:03 PM   #134 (permalink)
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So with a little digging I found this.

This is the stock 241/799's

Stock Head Flow Numbers
Chamber 64.45 cc-------0.100---0.200--0.300--0.400---0.500---0.550---0.600
Intake 210 cc------------62------126----184----224-----251----256----257
Exhaust 75 cc------------57------108----143----163-----176----180----183



And this is the numbers for the 821/823/5364 heads on a 4.0 bore.

Lift 0.100--0.200--0.300 0.400 0.500 0.600 0.700
Intake (cfm) 151 208 256 294 316
Exhaust (cfm) 111 152 174 183 189


That does look allot better in the bench flow numbers.

The one thing I am not liking is the intake to throttle body harness issues. that looks like a major pain in the a$$ to get it all sorted out. Especially with having to swap all the injector plugs and crap too.

I did happen to come across a really good deal on a long block motor over there. The question is, is how to get them to sell it to me as a complete motor/harness/ecm package for the asking price.
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Old 04-29-2016, 10:46 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Another update.

Looking into the torque converters did show that there was a difference in the stall speed, so I went ahead and got them swapped out, which turned out to be a huge pain in the ass. I don't know what happened but when I seated the TC in the trans I couldn't get it to click in the third time, I fought with it for a while, and then tried to put the other one back in it, and it wouldn't go in either. I then tried to put them both in the other trans and they both went right in, go back to the other one and nope, nada. I ended up swapping out the pump from the one to the other to get it to work. No one in town had a gasket for the pump so I had to get one ordered in for that.

I got the frame painted, the axles back under it and the drive train mounted back in it. I know there will be a bunch of touch up on the frame, and I left some sections I knew I would be doing allot of work on un-painted, its just that once the tube is mounted it will not be very easy to just roll it over and around to get paint in the hard to reach spots.

I also spent a little bit of time and got a fan shroud made up. I still need to weld it in the corners and then tach it onto the radiator, but I haven't ran a tig in many years and just playing around with it on aluminum, I have to get allot better with it before I do that. I am pretty happy with it so far. Got the fan mounted on it with nut-serts.




I got a little bit of time to play with it last weekend and played with where the tube is going to be.

This is in the stock location.







I ended up moving it forward almost 7.5". I might move it back just a tad, but will have to stare at it some more to finally decide.






I had to open up the firewall just a lil bit.




And then last night I took a little bit of time and started working on the sliders/rockers for the passenger side. Had a ton of other stuff going on all day too so I didn't get very far, and I am out of plasma tips so I couldn't start cutting the sliders how I want them until the new ones come in Monday.



I wanted to try and get a pic with the piece up to it at least, but I don't have anymore tall stands around so I will have to dig up some more of those before I can go any further also.


90% of the fuel system got ordered today also, just need to pick up a couple more fittings and the stuff next payday, I want to actually have the tank and a few of the other pieces in hand before I buy the pump and stuff though, so they were put on hold. Now with the last couple of weeks done and over with I am hoping to be able to put some time into it, and in to the 800 also.

Last edited by jemarshall; 04-29-2016 at 10:47 PM.
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:02 AM   #136 (permalink)
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Finally got around to getting some work done on it this weekend.

I had gotten a set of 799 heads for it about a month ago. I got them torn down and sent it for a clean up pass. ended up taking .006 off of them. I didn't like the valve seals that came with the gasket kit I got, so I am waiting on them to show up latter this week and then I will get them re-assembled.



I am not sure but I believe that these heads had work done to them previously. One of them had been shimmed, and they are stamped with a logo I have never seen before.






I also got the sliders on and most of the tubes between them and the frame so that the body is now mounted. Was nice to be able to get the stands out from under it so I could move it around and get the shop cleaned up again.








Put the windshield frame on it to get an idea of just how tall it going to be.

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Old 06-13-2016, 07:02 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Spent some time playing with the fenders just doing some mental figuring on where the lines of the cage need to be.






The top of the sliders is just about the top of the cases and most of the transmission. Probably going to end up with a pretty flat bottom at that height.


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Old 06-19-2016, 07:54 PM   #138 (permalink)
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Got allot of time in on it this weekend. Friday I finished up getting the heads back together and ready to go for when I can get them swapped on, and then finished up the bars from the sliders/rockers to the frame.





Then started in on the A pillar bar, got the kid to come out and give me a hand for a while, surprised he didn't have a seizure from the lack electronics on the bender though.




B pillar and bars.






Shitty pic but this is about where the fenders will end up.

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Old 06-19-2016, 07:54 PM   #139 (permalink)
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Saturday and Sunday I the top "X" bars in and two of the bars for the front engine section.










And a couple from trying to figure out just where everything is going to end up.



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Old 06-20-2016, 10:47 AM   #140 (permalink)
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sweet. good progress. a few months to go...........
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Old 06-20-2016, 02:07 PM   #141 (permalink)
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sweet. good progress. a few months to go...........
Thanks, really trying to get moving on this, need to get it done. I done think it will be ready by October though, hoping and prying to have it done by February. Just too much and too little time and funds between now and the end of summer.
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Old 06-24-2016, 03:39 AM   #142 (permalink)
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What's overall height?
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:53 AM   #143 (permalink)
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Just measured it at 77 5/8
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Old 07-09-2016, 07:25 AM   #144 (permalink)
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Still slowly plugging along in-between everything else.

Got started on the lower front ORI mounts.



Still need to add to them, just trying to get there seems like a ton of crap. Something like this: I need to get the uppers mounts figured out, but first I need to lower it to full bump, but to do that I need to figure out just where the rear cage bars are going to go so I can figure out where I need to cut the rear frame off of and also start to figure out the mounts for the rear, but before I can do that I need to know what I am doing with the rear skins, which is about where I am now.

This is where I started at with the rear skins.



Trying to decide how far in I want to bring them.

Touching the frame:





Or 6" out


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Old 07-09-2016, 07:26 AM   #145 (permalink)
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After a bunch of consulting with the rest of the local idiots (da worms ), this is where I got the other night before jack told me I had to stop playing with sharp implements. . Still got to tie the end cap into the radius, which is also probably going to be opened up some more yet for tire clearance. Will have to figure that out after I get the ORI's mounted and I can cycle the suspension some to see where they need to be trimmed to, but getting this far will let me figure out where to cut the frame and get the rear cage started so I can include the mounts for the ORI's and skins into it.





and the general consensus from everyone else, and the boss (wife), is that it'll most likely end up with being about 6" off of the frame.





Added a couple bars to the front section also but I didn't take any pics of those yet, need to pick up some more tube right now though after burning up some of it on the kids rig the other day too before i can get much farther.

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Old 07-19-2016, 07:02 AM   #146 (permalink)
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Still slowly just plugging along.

Front upper ORI mounts, V2.0.






Ended up taking 17 inches off the rear of the frame. The frame rails end right at the back side of the tire, where they meet the radius of the tire at full bump. If that makes since.








Hoping to have this thing sitting on its own suspension on all 4 corners by the end of next week, will see if I can make that happen with a ton of other crap going on next week.
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:02 AM   #147 (permalink)
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Got the driver side upper mounts cleaned up and installed last night. The blind guy stopped by on his way through town and we were able to get the front suspension flexed out to check for clearance. Everything is looking good. There is a little more than a half inch between the frame rails and the ORI's at full cross up.











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Old 07-21-2016, 05:18 PM   #148 (permalink)
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Looking good!

It's too late since you've done some extensive cutting, but if you want to refer to my rig, I narrowed my rear to where the tail light caps were 42" apart from inside to side. My thought was I would put my full size spare in between where the tailgate used to be.

Keep up the good work!
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Old 07-21-2016, 05:51 PM   #149 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Looking good!

It's too late since you've done some extensive cutting, but if you want to refer to my rig, I narrowed my rear to where the tail light caps were 42" apart from inside to side. My thought was I would put my full size spare in between where the tailgate used to be.

Keep up the good work!
Thank you.

I am not sure what the distance between the two end caps will be. Right now I am planning on having them about 6" outboard of the frame rails. If I remember right off the top of my head, the frame is 33", which would put them right about 45". This is still open to variations until I get the rear bars done and start getting the suspension and everything figured out for it. I have to pick up a couple sticks of tube before I can go any further, hopefully they will be in tomorrow, if not it will be Monday before I can pick them up. Hoping to get some decent time in on it next week and get that done.

Have you been beating on yours anymore lately, it turned out sweet.
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Old 07-23-2016, 01:15 AM   #150 (permalink)
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Thank you.

Have you been beating on yours anymore lately, it turned out sweet.
I've been chasing an over heating issue. Cant go up hills or put load on it up hill without it going to 225+ degrees. Even with a bigger radiator. I pressure tested it last night and found a leaking lower hose and fixed that. No loss of pressure after the fix, then I put a vacuum to the radiator with a special tool and injected antifreeze after with it, in hopes it sucked out any remaining air pockets in the system. My air compressor couldn't quite put enough air pass the "T" to get to the recommended PSI the tool was asking for. So well see.

Going to check the timing and spark plugs next. If not that then tear apart the intake manifold gasket. Hopefully its fixed shortly.

I talked to Scouttanks today and hes been wheelin his up at Fordyce pretty regularly. I'm getting the itch, but with working weekends and a 11 mo old at the house its hard to get away these days.
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