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Old 08-07-2016, 01:29 PM   #176 (permalink)
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I don't have a good shot that shows it, but you can kinda see it here. The upper link mounts are set where they just tuck into the inside of the frame at full bump. Moving the frame rails in might cause a bigger issue with the clearance there. I think that only notching a short section will work, and still give the clearances on the links, but I haven't actually sat down and looked it over. Once I get the rear finished up I'll start looking at it, its just allot easier to flex the rear out with the struts in place in the front right now. Will make it easier when playing with the front too.
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Old 08-07-2016, 02:01 PM   #177 (permalink)
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Plug, something like this is what came to mind with what you were saying, and what I am thinking.
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Old 08-07-2016, 03:35 PM   #178 (permalink)
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thats what I meant. Just with some fish plates.
or run the inner piece all the way forward
Or change it out for tube instead
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Last edited by plug ugly; 08-07-2016 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:35 PM   #179 (permalink)
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Rears are done. The digital protractor says they cam over 1 deg past 90, and I am not fucking with it anymore over that 1 deg. I had to move the bottoms in about a quarter inch from where I had them to get the clearance on the tire. Its hard to see it in the pic but there is about 3/8" in there.









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Old 08-07-2016, 09:49 PM   #180 (permalink)
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dont forget tire deflection when its aired down
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:14 PM   #181 (permalink)
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Like plug says you might want a little more room for deflection and tire shake when bouncing. Would rather have it close to the frame than the tire.

In the front can you get away with just notching in to the frame and re-plating Vs. cutting the frame all the way out? Just narrow that section down to an 1" or so, maybe use a section of heavy wall 4-6" pipe?
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:30 PM   #182 (permalink)
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What is a good rule of thumb on the tire clearance?

Sitting here trying to figure out the front. Going off the rear, it needs to angle in 15.3 ish deg at full bump. I might be able to get it with just notching the frame without adding an inner piece. The location of the notch is going to make that a mofo if I have to. It's right in the slope and it would contact the upper axle end link heims.

Thinking of cutting out what I have and see where it gets me.
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:18 AM   #183 (permalink)
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The front notch looks like what I had in mind. Not going all the way through the frame. I would try that before anything else.
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:57 AM   #184 (permalink)
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Not going to be enough










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Old 08-08-2016, 09:32 AM   #185 (permalink)
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what kinda angle is that at now?








this wont necessarily help you, but I think is what you were asking about in text

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Old 08-08-2016, 12:30 PM   #186 (permalink)
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They are at a little more than 15 deg which is where the rears are.

That does help me see what you are saying. My problem is the notch isn't in a straight run.
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:28 PM   #187 (permalink)
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pic of how your frame works? Sounds like tubing it may be the easiest, best option
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Old 08-08-2016, 03:44 PM   #188 (permalink)
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This?


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Old 08-08-2016, 04:30 PM   #189 (permalink)
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i see it now. How narrow does it pinch too? Could you use some 2x3, miter a joint, fish plate it, and then attach it to that narrower section, similar to mine in some fashion? Cut say 30 degrees out of 3 sides of the tube, bend it, weld it, plate it, and then attach to the frame?
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Old 08-08-2016, 04:59 PM   #190 (permalink)
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There is an inch left, but it's going to have to go also. Where it's at now it won't clear the strut body. Another inch and it should.

Story of my life.

That's where the thought of another frame section that matches the angles and then plate it together on the inside. Using a tube, I also have to make it match going down to the lower level of the front section.
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Old 08-18-2016, 04:08 PM   #191 (permalink)
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So we convinced you to cut it all back apart for more changes and now you leave us hanging. Did you get the struts mounted up and cycled again?
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Old 08-18-2016, 04:45 PM   #192 (permalink)
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No, I was not able to get to it on my days off. I then had to move it over to the side so I can get to working on the kids rig. I probably wont be able to get back to it until mid October, unless I can get everything I need to get done on hers done before I have to load it up to go. She is moving to NM in October and is dead set on taking it with her, so I have to go over it really good to make sure it will at least be somewhat reliable.
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Old 08-21-2016, 12:23 AM   #193 (permalink)
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Jon, one of the things I am really struggling with is how much original structure I kept. Granted I think my intent was a little more tame than what yours is, but what about just back halfing it? Hell, cut the front off also. Its going to be a lot easier now and will fix all of your clearance probs on your struts.
I'm with plug ugly here. At this point in the build your WAY past factory. Why not tube out the front frame and make it work with what you need? A little more work yes but it would solve your dilemma. Or how set are you on narrowed axles?? Sounds like you can't have the best of both worlds here. I wouldn't notch the frame, just gives me the shivers for issues that could arise even if it's done correctly.

Your building a crawler. Tube the front end. Sip that GJ and come up with a bitchin design!
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:32 PM   #194 (permalink)
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Ya, I have been mulling it over in my mine on just what to do. I have until mid October until I can get back to it so I am hoping to have figured out which why I want to go by then.
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:31 AM   #195 (permalink)
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why have any frame past the motor mounts?
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Old 08-22-2016, 06:44 PM   #196 (permalink)
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Its not just the frame rails. It cant be any narrower than it already is forward of where the ORI's are going, so if I redo it using tube I have to have two 90 deg bends withing about 5.5" of each other, going in opposite directions. I really don't see that as being doable.
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Old 08-22-2016, 06:59 PM   #197 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jemarshall:37984745
Its not just the frame rails. It cant be any narrower than it already is forward of where the ORI's are going, so if I redo it using tube I have to have two 90 deg bends withing about 5.5" of each other, going in opposite directions. I really don't see that as being doable.
Because of the radiator?
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Old 08-22-2016, 07:00 PM   #198 (permalink)
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Link clearances
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Old 09-28-2016, 04:40 PM   #199 (permalink)
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Get back to work John. Waiting on some updates.
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:47 PM   #200 (permalink)
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I got the piece I needed to finish notching the frame but I've just had too much crap going on to get to it. Will get back to it soon.
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