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Old 06-18-2016, 09:59 AM   #26 (permalink)
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This is an awesome build. Subscribed.
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Old 06-18-2016, 08:54 PM   #27 (permalink)
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what calipers are you running up front? gnarly build that surgery on the fenders is wicked
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:54 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I'm just running the stock Ford brakes, axle is out of a ~1990 F350. NAPA had the calipers and apparently someone had just put new rotors on before it was junked. Axle was from back east and was pretty crusty. Quick skim on the rotors and they're good as new.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:17 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I had bought a gas tank skid from Kilby years ago that was made of 3/16" steel and the tank strapped right to the skid. I liked the design to maximize ground clearance. Obviously no one makes one for a Scout so bought a 4'x5' piece of plate steel and started with a cardboard template. The fuel cell is a 20 gallon unit from Aeromotive and has their fuel pump and sending unit included. Fits pretty nice in the stock location but has to fill from the top. I built a trap door in the floor in the back for access.

Skid plate from the bottom.



Skid with the tanks sitting in it.



Assembled unit in place. Sits down a little bit below the shackles but I want my storage space still.

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Old 06-19-2016, 03:47 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Made some straps to hold the tank in place from 1x1/8 strap. Bent a couple bolts and made slots to hold them in place, similar to photos I saw on some mounts online.



Here's what it looks like after some POR15. Isolated the straps with 1/8" rubber and lined the bottom of the skid with the same 1/8" rubber to give it some flex. I've read that aluminum fuel cells can crack if they are mounted too hard so trying to avoid that issue down the road.



Wires everywhere. This is the factory engine harness, aftermarket engine harness and the chassis harness from KwikWire. I work with electronics for a living but am still a little intimidated by the magnitude of the rewiring job.

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Old 06-19-2016, 03:55 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Shifter for the 4L60E is an Art Carr / Winters unit. I didn't like how the plastic factory mount was going to run the cable through a hogged out hole in the floor so I built my own little mount instead. You can see the twin sticks from the Atlas in this shot as well. The tunnel is really tall so the shifters don't stick up too far, hope that works out okay.



Had to come up with a way to mount the gas pedal since it's drive by wire. Found a flat spot on the firewall and it seemed to work out pretty well. Hits the built in stop before hitting the floor by a bit. TAC module will mount underhood and connect to the pedal.

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Old 06-19-2016, 04:03 PM   #32 (permalink)
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The Atlas completely fills the space towards the frame on the drivers side so no way normal dual exhaust would fit. Again, looked at how a buddy's buggy did his exhaust and fabbed something similar. Used 2.25" tube to go under the oil pan and stay away from the driveshaft into a 3" Y pipe.



Flanges were bought online along with some copper gaskets. I hate exhaust leaks so hope these stay sealed up. Drilled holes and welded the O2 sensor bungs in close to the manifolds and put them on the high side so condensation at startup doesn't run water into the sensors, sounds like that can be an issue as well.



Finished product runs some 3" tube into a short Magnaflow catalytic converter and a 3" Flowmaster knockoff muffler. My son said if it doesn't set off car alarms you're not doing it right. I suspect this won't be mistaken for a sewing machine like a couple of my previous vehicles sounded like.

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Old 06-19-2016, 04:32 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Tried to use the factory plastic ECU mount but it hit the hood after I got it partially in, didn't measure close enough. So, back to fabbing up a lower profile mount. It's going to sit on top the drivers side fender liner. Mounts with some rubber isolation so vibration won't damage anything.





Had to add an O2 sensor connector to the harness since one was missing. The crimper I bought with the wiring harness did a great job, crimps look like factory.



Final product, should seal up like original.

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Old 06-19-2016, 04:37 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Picked up a Griffin radiator from Summit. It's made for an LS engine and has both intake/outlet on the passenger side and a steam port connection. Got the biggest one that would fit in the space. Went to a local steel place and found some interesting stuff in the scrap pile that ended up working great for a radiator mount. Isolated the tray in rubber again to try to keep it from flexing when the truck gets crossed up so it won't break the radiator apart. Top is mounted in a single place about 6" wide to allow the radiator to float.





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Old 07-17-2016, 02:09 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Had some access issues lately, finally got things cleared up and can post again.

This is the bracket I fabbed up for the ECU underhood. Isolated it with rubber where it mounts to the inner drives side fenderwell.



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Old 07-17-2016, 02:23 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Radiator mounted and ready to go. Clearance is more than an inch - with the polyurethane engine mounts, should be enough to not ever touch.



Power steering/brake cooler mount. Griffin said warranty would be void if you mounted anything with those punchthrough plastic things so made this to keep it isolated.



Final product from the front.

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Old 07-17-2016, 02:40 PM   #37 (permalink)
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With the gas tank under the cargo area and not having a filler tube, I needed access to fill it up. Cut a small door and reinforced it so when you put weight on it, it won't push down. Ordered a flush mount aircraft latch so nothing sticks up when you slide stuff in the back.



Also painted the dash while I had it out so it will match the body color.

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Old 09-05-2016, 09:25 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Dash out, in the middle of the rewire.



Firewall insulation in place, some of the wiring is run here.



Gauges in, dash installed, footwell lights installed and working.



Used a battery charger connected to the battery terminals to test the wiring out as I installed it. Didn't want to directly connect the battery just in case of a short, although everything is double fused. In addition to the main fuse blocks, the kit came with a megafuse to put inline with the main supply.
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:27 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Final shot of the gas tank skid. It hangs down just a bit below the shackles but it's tucked up as tight as I can get it underneath the rear body.

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Old 09-05-2016, 09:31 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Tried to start it after getting the dash installed and wiring completed, but it would only run for about 2 seconds before shutting itself off. Bought a scan tool and it was reporting something about the anti-theft not satisfied. Talked to the guy I got it from about the re-program and together decided that the burn of the ECU probably didn't happen like it should. Computer got shipped off to get reprogrammed and should be back any day. In the meantime, have been getting brake fittings tightened up, air intake bracket fabricated and other miscellaneous stuff cleaned up so that hopefully as soon as it's running, I can actually test drive it a bit. It's been about a year since I took it out of commission so am pretty excited to drive it again.
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Old 09-23-2016, 04:39 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Old 09-25-2016, 08:33 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Just got the computer back earlier this week, plugged it in and it fired right up! Oil pressure looks good and it seems to idle nice. Put 8 quarts of trans fluid in it and still not showing on the dipstick, not sure if that's right for a 4L60E trans that has been drained or not. Pretty sure the torque converter was also drained for that much fluid to fit. Need to get some more and keep filling - it's the original dipstick as far as I know.

Picked up new U-bolts for the front and got those torqued down as well as the spring/shackle bolts up front. Bled the brakes with a MityVac and was able to take it around the block. With the 5.38 gears it seems pretty snappy.

Steering lock is intermittently catching so need to look at that before actually driving it anywhere and need to get the front grille back in so I have lights. The very tip of the rod end up through the pitman arm was slightly rubbing the bottom of the frame so needed to trim a tiny bit off that too. Just glad to have it mobile again and will hopefully be able to take it for a shakedown drive this week.
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:05 AM   #43 (permalink)
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You should come finish some of my projects.
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Old 09-30-2016, 09:02 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I can't even get this one done. Steering column issue was easy - turned out to be the tip of a bolt through the firewall was catching on the steering shaft.

After I actually took it for a short drive, discovered a nasty case of death wobble despite taking all kinds of care to prevent it in the suspension design. Everything is tight up front, but found toe in to be 3/4". Adjusted it to about 1/8" but have not taken it for a drive yet. Hoping that helps, but not very confident about it fixing it.

Also now the check engine light is on and it won't idle right and it's throwing a code for p0171 and p0174, lean condition on both banks. Borrowed a fuel pressure gauge from O'Reilly to verify the pump is providing enough pressure and will use the scan tool tomorrow to look at the live data to see if I can gain any clues as to what's causing it. Guess things were going too well....
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Old 09-30-2016, 09:04 PM   #45 (permalink)
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On the brighter side, found a local shop having a tax free sale and willing to match internet pricing so ordered my tires. Going with Toyo Open Country MT's in 40x13.50R17's. Hope to get them in a week or two and see how it's going to finally look.
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Old 09-30-2016, 10:54 PM   #46 (permalink)
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That is going to look great with the 4Ds
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Old 10-01-2016, 08:55 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Took it out for a spin today and the death wobble is pretty much gone. Still picks up a little shake when I hit the right kind of bump going 35-40mph. Probably need a stabilizer or hydro assist.

The engine idle issue and codes it was throwing turned out to be miswired oxygen sensors, my fault when I built the harness. Popped the pins out of the connector into the correct place and all the codes are gone and it idles right. Luckily it didn't seem to damage the computer or sensors. Exhaust doesn't stink anymore either.

Took it over to Tanner and he charged the shocks for me, so ready to start driving it around. Didn't overheat driving it today and it was mid 90's. Pulled the top off and here's what it looks like for now:





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Old 10-01-2016, 10:49 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Damn... that is one sexy tractor.
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:09 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Thanks, I like it!

The starter had been sounding like it was staying engaged for a couple seconds after it started since I got this engine running. Sometimes longer, sometimes shorter, but always sounded a little funny. Shimmed the starter, but no effect and I was told these starters are typically not shimmed like the old days. Tanner listened to it and commented to me it sounds like the key is sticking and the starter motor is running after the engine has started.

When I had the 392 in it, I would occasionally get a no-start due to the old ignition switch not providing enough current to the starter solenoid, so I did the Ford relay trick to provide power to both the starter motor and the starter solenoid at the same time. Worked great with the IH starter and that problem was solved.

Figured if it worked with the IH engine, it should work with the LS engine, right? Well, pretty sure that trick is not a good idea with the LS starter.

To see if the ignition switch was hanging up and continuing to provide power to the starter after it started, I got out the oscilloscope and looked at the ignition signal to the Ford relay and also to the starter itself. Ignition signal to the solenoid was clean as expected, going high the instant I hit the key and low the instant the key was released. What I didn't expect was that the voltage at the starter motor dropped slowly. With the Ford relay 'fix' this voltage is connected to the solenoid right at the starter. What I believe is happening is that the starter motor keeps spinning for a bit after the engine starts (normal condition) and acts like a generator, keeping the solenoid powered and it keeps itself engaged for a while. Kind of a latched circuit.

I rewired things so that the starter motor always has power like original, and ran the ignition switch signal to the Ford relay to drive the main starter relay. I know, it's double relayed, but it keeps the current in the ignition switch low. Tested it out and starter sounds normal and the problem is fixed.
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Old 10-03-2016, 09:23 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Looks fantastic. You're going to love those Toyos. That's what I run. How do those deaver's ride? Length?
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