hey everyone, first post on the board here. I have a 78 scout II with a 345. I can't get the thing to pass smog for nothin. Anyway, when I took it in today to try again, sounded like the oil pump went out on it. lifters started tapping and it just kept getting louder. I have no oil pressure at idle, but it goes up a little if I rev it. I am assuming an oil pump and am going to swap that in tonight before I try anything else. Anyway, I am tired of this motor. Anyone got any good ideas for a simple engine swap? Are 350's pretty easy to swap in?
what are you tired about? Sounds like you have and old motor that needs a little work and your picking away at it.
Have you put a "real" gauge on it? The stock gauge isn't always accurate or reliable.
What is it not passing on smog? All smog equipment good? Carb good? Ignition good?
IH motors can pass smog with no emissions stuff if they are tuned up right. Swapping in say a 350 will cost about as much as rebuilding a 345 after all the adapters and such.
What are you talking about? Motor swaps aren't tech enough for you? That's right, be truly hardcore and drop a 345 back in, then you won't have to modify anything.
hey everyone, first post on the board here. I have a 78 scout II with a 345. I can't get the thing to pass smog for nothin. Anyway, when I took it in today to try again, sounded like the oil pump went out on it. lifters started tapping and it just kept getting louder. I have no oil pressure at idle, but it goes up a little if I rev it. I am assuming an oil pump and am going to swap that in tonight before I try anything else. Anyway, I am tired of this motor. Anyone got any good ideas for a simple engine swap? Are 350's pretty easy to swap in?
Step 1 - check the oil. You might be low. Ticking lifters is a sign that your oil needs topped up. If the problem persists, it might mean shot cam bearings.
Might also mean plugged oil drain backs, if it only does this after a run at high speed/high RPM.
I agree wit Ben, Shit can that IH turd. Get a tbi 350 and a tranny and t.case to bolt to it. Build a set of mounts and a new tranny crossmember. Simple swap, nice weight reduction.
Yeah, I did drop a 345 back in, but it's not exactly "unmodified". It is pretty much stock, nothing fancy in the rebuild, but I did shit can the shit-ass ignition and archaic fuel delivery system. It's now sporting a GM TBI system with HEI (fuel and spark controlled by ECM). The way I see it, I junked the bullshit part of the engine and kept the power and torque curve of the IH truck engine. Yeah, it is heavy..... I won't even begin to try to argue that point....
This place has gone soft. Got half way through this post before I realized I was on pirate and not the BB. :flipoff2:
Anyway, if you can't get a 345 to pass smog maybe an engine swap is beyond your abilities. You know every engine needs to be tuned and they all operate basically the same. Internal Combustion. Also, I think Kalifornia law states that if you swap motors that you must comply with the smog laws for that year and model motor. So if you upgrade to that TBI you're going to need everything that goes along with it. Just something to be aware of.
Here's the deal on the smog. The carb was cracked, so I replaced it. It got better, but still couldn't pass. Checked the dist. and seemed to be advancing too far, so I swapped the dist. Took it in today, fine tuned it, and was running really close to passing, only was going to have to fudge a few things. Then on the high speed test, it started knocking, louder and louder so he aborted. I do have a new oil pressure guage on there that is accurate as far as I know. It was running like 50 - 60 lbs before the test, then took a crap. It has oil, I did check that, just no oil pressure, however if I rev it, it gets some oil pressure and bottoms back out at idle. looks more like a tach than an oil pressure guage when you gun it. My thought is it must be either the oil pump (best guess since we were playing with the dist) or a main bearing. I just bought the oil pump, gonna see if that will fix the problem or not. If anyone has any other ideas, let me know.
Here's the deal on the smog. The carb was cracked, so I replaced it. It got better, but still couldn't pass. Checked the dist. and seemed to be advancing too far, so I swapped the dist. Took it in today, fine tuned it, and was running really close to passing, only was going to have to fudge a few things. Then on the high speed test, it started knocking, louder and louder so he aborted. I do have a new oil pressure guage on there that is accurate as far as I know. It was running like 50 - 60 lbs before the test, then took a crap. It has oil, I did check that, just no oil pressure, however if I rev it, it gets some oil pressure and bottoms back out at idle. looks more like a tach than an oil pressure guage when you gun it. My thought is it must be either the oil pump (best guess since we were playing with the dist) or a main bearing. I just bought the oil pump, gonna see if that will fix the problem or not. If anyone has any other ideas, let me know.
Should be using SAE 30 or 20W-50 if you want a multi-grade. With thin 10W-40 shit, I'm surprised the gauge moved at all.
The reason I ask about the new Scout pump is that they don't (and haven't for some time) make them any more. What you most like have is an oil pump for a 345 from a truck or pickup, either of which will not fit inside the Scout oil pan. About your only choice is a rebuild kit for the Scout oil pump.
Also, I think Kalifornia law states that if you swap motors that you must comply with the smog laws for that year and model motor. So if you upgrade to that TBI you're going to need everything that goes along with it. Just something to be aware of.
I think that's backwards....
IIRC smog requirements have to jive with the vin/year of the vehicle... not motor....
You can put a newer smogged engine into a vehicle, not an older smogged engine into a newer one.... (tougher smog requirements).
Ok, so I had the scout towed home from the smog place. Got it to the access road. Started her up to drive her the last 30 yards, sounded fine, oil pressure was at about 30, better than bottomed out. My buddy and I are sitting there pondering whether to change out the oil pump or not, so I start it again, let it run for a bit, and the pressure starts dropping again. I could hear the lifters chattering again too. The pressure kept dropping and the lifters kept getting louder, so I killed it. Anyone know what this could be? Do IH 345 motors have oil relief valves, or oil pressure regulators or anything of that nature? Does it sound like an oil pump or is there someone out there thats had this problem before? I'm new to internationals so this is all new to me. Thanks.
Even my 345 is more powerful than my starter motor.. for proof, I have the starter I broke in half...
A 500caddy would be fun, and might have a place in something yet.. but it's just too cheap and easy to wimp out and be a Sheeple like everyone else..
..and since when do Scout owners do things the easy way? (always cheap, but never easy)..
If I wanted easy, I'd buy a bolt-on Jeep. :flipoff2: Hell, it'd already come with a 350, too..
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