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Old 04-10-2004, 12:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Powerglide to BD265

I wont say why I am doing this yet, and i dont think that anyone has done it...
What i need to know is if BD265's are internally or externally ballanced (i dont have the motor here to look at yet), and if externallly, what the balance weight and location (in degrees offset from the dowel pin) is. I am not sure if anyone would know this, but i figured it wouldnt hurt to ask.
Also, if anyone has fabicated a flex plate, what would you reccomend for thickness of plate to cut it from. Will 3/16 be sufficient without the reinforcement that the stamped ribs provide on factory-style flexplates? Also, what type of interference fit is necessary to locate the ring gear onto the flywheel? Any ideas on this are appreciated.

Final plan: BD265/'Glide/NP435/NP205. 109" WB fullsize-based buggy, (mostly just body skin and tube) D70 rear/D60 Front, Cantilever radius arms front and rear, F150 coils (with cantilefer setup, they should flex ok). Low COG. Droop biased shock valving, possibly with forced articulation capabilities.
Expected time of completion: Fall 2004
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Old 04-10-2004, 01:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Jump over to BB or JI and talk to Donnelly. he's into the 6's.

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Old 04-10-2004, 06:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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He's just gonna tell you not to waste your time trying to mate an auto to that engine. He likes the manuals behind the old six bangers.
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Old 04-10-2004, 11:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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well that big 6 will keep yor front wheels on the ground
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Old 04-12-2004, 07:38 AM   #5 (permalink)
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He's just gonna tell you not to waste your time trying to mate an auto to that engine. He likes the manuals behind the old six bangers.
The predominance of the IHC-6's were offered with manual transmissions, but I don't think I would tell anyone "not to waste thier time" trying. I would if we were talking about an SD33 though.

IHC did offer the Borg-Warner auto behind the 6, but not usually behind the BG-265 engine, as most folks who bought the 6-cylinder option with auto chose the BD240 or BG241. The nice thing is you can get the auto stuff usually for nothing from what I am told because nobody wants it.

With regard to FC's question(s).

IHC 6's, at least the "tilt valve"models are internally balanced. I have never seen the flex plate for one of the automatic trans equipped versions, but cannot imagine that they would need a flex plate with a greater thickness than 3/16".

As far as "interference fit" goes, I would use standard machining practice and use .005" undersize, just like a dowel pin hole.

A BG265 is a heavy engine, really heavy. Close to 700lbs, possibly more depending on what it's trimmed out with. Chief is right, you won't have any trouble keeping the front end down
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks, that helps out a lot. I am kind of scared of using the BW auto, though, as i have been unable to find much in the way of rebuild parts or infomation. I was just considering the 'glide cause they are easy to addapt to use different bellhousings. The main reason behind using an auto is to minimixe breakage, and maximize control on the trail. I know that many would consider the weight of the bg-series I-6 excessive for a buggy, but this setup isnt for comp, just trails. I will post more on the project when i actually get something done on it. thanks,
-Ryan
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally posted by FCwheeler
Thanks, that helps out a lot. I am kind of scared of using the BW auto, though, as i have been unable to find much in the way of rebuild parts or infomation. I was just considering the 'glide cause they are easy to addapt to use different bellhousings. The main reason behind using an auto is to minimixe breakage, and maximize control on the trail. I know that many would consider the weight of the bg-series I-6 excessive for a buggy, but this setup isnt for comp, just trails. I will post more on the project when i actually get something done on it. thanks,
-Ryan
The reason why you aren't finding a whole lot on the Borg-Warner trans is because you aren't searching with the right name for it.

It is more widely known as the "Ford FMX". Try searching with Google using that name, and see what you find.

Although not a popular choice in transmissions to many, it is quite durable and easy to repair.

I agree that a powerglide would be infinitely adaptable, but a 2-speed automatic isn't what I would choose, especially for a trail rig with a BD/BG motor. Remember, these engines only have 4 main bearings, and don't like any RPM's over 3200 typically.

IHC-6's have a bad habit of throwing rods if overreved, or windowing the cylinder head with a piston periodically. They make gobs of low-end grunt though.
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Old 04-13-2004, 08:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Old 04-14-2004, 07:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Old 04-14-2004, 07:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Old 04-14-2004, 04:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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If you can find a BW auto setup, that might be a good way to go, I'd probably look in 2wd halftons, not sure, but they seem to be the most likley to have been ordered with anauto behind a BD/BG. Anyone know what the first gear is?
BTW, 109"wb, + all that shiat = shortass rear shaft, maybe a 420 would be better to back it with for length?
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Old 04-22-2004, 09:19 AM   #12 (permalink)
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3/16" would be way overkill for a flexplate, 426 hemi flexplates are only .110-.112" thick. Most flexplates have an offset front to back to locate the converter into the pump, that might be tricky, I think if you got the od right you could tack the ring gear on, I would use a 1/4" square cross section ring to reinforce the joint between the ring and the flex plate.
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Old 04-29-2004, 12:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm curious as to what you're doing about the bell housing? Are you building a spacer/adapter? Regardless, how about modifying the existing flywheel vs fabricating a new flexplate?

Ken
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