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My Scout 80

953 views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  JustinL 
#1 ·
Just picked this up on tuesday. Found the buy because he worked with my dad. 4 years ago, he got tired of driving it and parked it out by his barn and thats where it sat until i brought it to my house. Not a bad deal considering i got it for 50 bucks. So far i have rebuilt the carb, torn down the brake master cylinder, and reworked the fuel system back to the pump (new electric). I do need a master clutch cylinder because the two i got with it are seized up. I have almost 2 of everything because he stripped another scout he had. Anyways, heres the pics:


 
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#2 ·
What year/engine is it? What kind of top? It looks like a soft top? I see it is sprung over, are those the Dana 27 axles, or something better? Also, can you get a pic of the front axle? It looks like some kind of ghetto fab high steer. How long did it take you to clean that fawker? :flipoff2: Is this your first Scout?
 
#3 · (Edited)
definately a ghetto highsteer, they took the steering arm and welded it to a 4in thich peice of metal, then welded that to where the steering wheel use to be. It is a soft top, but if you look at the back you can see where it tore. Didnt take long to clean it because i have a pressure washer. Dont know what year engine it is but its a 152, not the orignal engine to this scout, but this one has ~30,000 miles on it.


EDIT: I just started it up, ran and idled fine. Total cost = 125 dollars.
 
#5 ·
this is what it looks like now after i have had it for a week. All of the electronics work. Only thing on the dash broken is the hand throttle. Tomorrow im hopefully going to get new rear wheel cylinders. I am in need of an entire clutch hydrolic system and a brake master cylinder. How should i go about cleaning out the brake lines, or should i just replum the whole system?

 
#7 ·
Yes, replumb the entire brake system. Since it all runs on a single chamber master it would not be good for one line to give out as it will drain the entire system and leave you scrambling to stop. It happened to me, luckily I was in a gravel lot. New wheel cylinders are a good idea. Make sure you know positively what axles those are. I'm not sure that pic you posted was a d44.
Also, new fuel lines. I tried just patching the leaks but then it leaks somewhere else. Pull the fuel tanks and check for leaks, rust and gum.

As for the hydraulic clutch, Napa has a rebuild for the master cylinder, and I understand there are replacement slaves available. Do a search here and on binderbulletin.org.
 
#9 ·
The Cluch master for a Dodge D-50 PU will work (from napa) for the cluch master. Bore/stroke are the same, and the mounting holes are close enought that with a little filling you can bolt it up. You will need a metric -> standard flare adapter, but they should have that as well. LIke $40-$50 out the door total IIRC. Doesn't *look* like the original, but works and is easier to get.

New orginals can be had from circle track guys ("Gering"(sp) MC's is what they are) or somemore specialsed Scout places (Scout Parts). But they are like $70-$120+.

don't know about the slave, mine was in good enough condition to re-use.
 
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