Is it possible to make a hybrid 44/60 diff.?
I.e.; cutting the tubes off the sliding the 44 tubes inside the 60 tubes to the same overall length as the 44 to keep the stock 44 wms to wms and gain the Dana 60 strength.
I know I don’t get the FF advantage but her in Australia the bigger Dana 60/70 or the crop 12/14 bolt are almost impossible to find.
Is it possible to make a hybrid 44/60 diff.?
I.e.; cutting the tubes off the sliding the 44 tubes inside the 60 tubes to the same overall length as the 44 to keep the stock 44 wms to wms and gain the Dana 60 strength.
I know I don’t get the FF advantage but her in Australia the bigger Dana 60/70 or the crop 12/14 bolt are almost impossible to find.
Lathe the '44 tubes then beat 'em inside the '60 tubes.
Make it the right length, and you can keep running the 30sp Dana 44 axle shafts.
Project Tonto in FourWheeler magazine back in 96-97 built a hybrid rear end like that.
The real question though is.. why? Do you need the stronger R&P for lower gears? The axle shafts are typically the weak link on a '44 rear.. and you'd be keeping them.
Lathe the '44 tubes then beat 'em inside the '60 tubes.
Make it the right length, and you can keep running the 30sp Dana 44 axle shafts.
Project Tonto in FourWheeler magazine back in 96-97 built a hybrid rear end like that.
The real question though is.. why? Do you need the stronger R&P for lower gears? The axle shafts are typically the weak link on a '44 rear.. and you'd be keeping them.
I wish there was a way on a Scout rear Dana 44 to put Dana 60 Full floating spindles on the Dana 44 and maintain the 58" wms, and not have to run custom shafts.
Lathe the '44 tubes then beat 'em inside the '60 tubes.
Make it the right length, and you can keep running the 30sp Dana 44 axle shafts.
Project Tonto in FourWheeler magazine back in 96-97 built a hybrid rear end like that.
The real question though is.. why? Do you need the stronger R&P for lower gears? The axle shafts are typically the weak link on a '44 rear.. and you'd be keeping them.
Wouldn't that essentially be the same Dana 60-2 used in T'all's and pu's?
I ask because that's the same axle I am using for a SOA SII and plan on putting a D44 disc brake kit and a D60 Detroit. The OD of the axle tubes is 3 1/8". I haven't measured the axle shaft diameter.
Like i said its very hard to get any American 4x4 part and even harder to get parts that are stonger than the orignial parts.
Also i cant go full width as the goverment says the max over stock width increase is 1.5 inches over all.
I dont konw what other options i have 9inch??
i have a 392 rebuilt and i.m planing to put on a super charger and since i,m do'in a SOA, RS and gonig from 3.54 to 4.1 it seams the wright time to do the rear.
the rear tiers will be 35x12.5
so far i never done a AXEL SHAFT but i have broken all the other bits (the parts the 60 would upgead)
Have you thought of just narrowing a 60 so your legal? not sure why you would want to go through all the trouble of putting the two together just for a stronger ring and pinion when your probably going to brake axle shafts.
Like i said its very hard to get any American 4x4 part and even harder to get parts that are stonger than the orignial parts.
Also i cant go full width as the goverment says the max over stock width increase is 1.5 inches over all.
I dont konw what other options i have 9inch??
i have a 392 rebuilt and i.m planing to put on a super charger and since i,m do'in a SOA, RS and gonig from 3.54 to 4.1 it seams the wright time to do the rear.
the rear tiers will be 35x12.5
so far i never done a AXEL SHAFT but i have broken all the other bits (the parts the 60 would upgead)
Crunch the numbers and avalibility between a 60 or a 9 with the big bearing ends and custom shafts as OS stated and bite the bullet. Can't be too hard to find a 9 there
Strong, light, and just as hard/$ as building a SF D60.
Like OS said, with a blown 392, anything short of a 35-spline, 1.5" what-ever would be a waste. Easy enough to build with in-expencive mail-order parts (little more $$ obvioulsy with shipping). Or you should be able to find the correct width 9" under a "ford" product in your local yards, then order shafts and a Locker (arn't ARB's local )
Or take a 60 center, get some set-20 ends and have some shafts built.
Isn't "Rock Crusher" a ausi. company?? They should be able to help you with HD stuff....
Strong, light, and just as hard/$ as building a SF D60.
Like OS said, with a blown 392, anything short of a 35-spline, 1.5" what-ever would be a waste. Easy enough to build with in-expencive mail-order parts (little more $$ obvioulsy with shipping). Or you should be able to find the correct width 9" under a "ford" product in your local yards, then order shafts and a Locker (arn't ARB's local )
Or take a 60 center, get some set-20 ends and have some shafts built.
Isn't "Rock Crusher" a ausi. company?? They should be able to help you with HD stuff....
the guy who is helping build this go's over to the US 3/4 times per year and he might bring back some upgreaded 44 shafts.
the way i see it the center will work and shaft are easy to relpace untill i can get some over here.
there's a thread about it in the Jeep section, and mentions of it in GEN. Tech Tim is our local (PBB) ARB reprasenative... and had a few good things to say about it (naturaly).
in a rear app. Your weakness become the R&P, which in a heavy rig (scout) with good power (geared V-8) and big tires; is a little light and can/does fail... in the front its not such an issue (even better with a RC front).
Lathe the '44 tubes then beat 'em inside the '60 tubes.
Make it the right length, and you can keep running the 30sp Dana 44 axle shafts.
Project Tonto in FourWheeler magazine back in 96-97 built a hybrid rear end like that.
The real question though is.. why? Do you need the stronger R&P for lower gears? The axle shafts are typically the weak link on a '44 rear.. and you'd be keeping them.
Have you done this?
When I build Dana 60's I use a jig bar that aligns the ends with the carrier. The tubes on a 60 are NOT aligned with the carrier. On some of the 60 housings I have done, it is visible that the tubes are not aligned.
I am sure it will work, but not having the axles aligned will affect your side gears. Something I would not want to do with a $650 locker.
BTW- Dutchman (Dutchmanms.com) has good prices and excellent help. They know their stuff. The billet 9" ends are trick.
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