1) There are 22 balls total, 11 black and 11 silver.... alternate them when reassembling.
2) First off, if this is on a Scout II, then porting the bottom rib on the passenger side puts the port and line headed right out into the engine mount and clearance is really tight.
Yes, you want to go all the way into the bore for the spool valve.... the red line in this pic shows the region you need to hit. You can drill into this from anywhere convenient around the circumference of the case.
3) As far as I know, the Teflon o-rings are not available individually... you have to buy either a complete gasket/seal kit or a rebuild kit to get the rings.
1. Well it looks like I am up the creek then. I have 21 balls. I suppose you need the 22 in order for everything to work right? Will balls out of a GM saginaw box work?
2. Box is going on a cruiser so I should be good to go in both locations for drilling
3. I am heading to the parts store at lunch to check out the rebuild kits.
Thats right... I had to read my notes. All mine were silver though
3) As far as I know, the Teflon o-rings are not available individually... you have to buy either a complete gasket/seal kit or a rebuild kit to get the rings.
1. Well it looks like I am up the creek then. I have 21 balls. I suppose you need the 22 in order for everything to work right? Will balls out of a GM saginaw box work?
2. Box is going on a cruiser so I should be good to go in both locations for drilling
3. I am heading to the parts store at lunch to check out the rebuild kits.
You have to clean them really good and get them into good bright light. Even then the color difference is subtle... as you can see from the pic above. It also helps to put them against a good contrasting background.
yeap, I read that thread last nite. I though I got all the balls, that is really the only thing stopping me now. Finding another scout box is going to be diff, but a standard GM is easy enought to come by.
I got a rebuild kit at the parts store waiting for me only 1 size 13/16. How do you tell what size you have
3/4 or 13/16
Where would you meausure the box? It shouldn't matter as far as the teflon rings between the two? Thanks
yeap, I read that thread last nite. I though I got all the balls, that is really the only thing stopping me now. Finding another scout box is going to be diff, but a standard GM is easy enought to come by.
I got a rebuild kit at the parts store waiting for me only 1 size 13/16. How do you tell what size you have
3/4 or 13/16
Where would you meausure the box? It shouldn't matter as far as the teflon rings between the two? Thanks
It won't matter as far as the Teflon rings go... the only difference between the two are input shaft size, so the input shaft bearing, seal and dust shield are the only parts in the two kits that are different.
The simplest way to tell the two boxes apart is to use an 11/16" 12-point socket. If the socket will fit over the input shaft and engage the splines, then it is a 3/4" input shaft. If the 11/16" 12-pt will not fit over the input shaft, it is 13/16".
Well, I got the kit, the only one on hand. Carquest part # 35129 for the 13/16 shaft. Has the teflon rings, abunch of seals, o rings ect. Now to find the missing ball.
Well I found my my ball, used the rebuilt the kit and put it all back together.
Teflon rings are a pita to get on. Any tricks to those for future reference? I used petrolium and it seemed to work fine, just a real tight fitting.
It seems to turn fine to the right and the left as in there is power. Truck is on jack stands. Only thing I did not do is take off the pitman and turn stop to stop. Turning now, I don't get to the stop of my gear box, just the stop of the axle stops.
The wheel turns harder to the right than it does the left. Also going to the left, it seems to want to turn on its own from about 1/2 turn from center?
Side note, none of my hydro assist is working either, I got a post in general 4x4.
I got a feeling I got something screwed up. Possibly air in the system? When I shut the truck off it hiss's?
If you soak the Teflon rings in warm/hot water, they expand a bit and make it easier to get them on the piston. When they cool off, they contract back to near their original size.
It doesn't surprise me that the hydro assist isn't working if the truck in on jackstands. There needs to be resistance on the pitman arm when you're turning the steering wheel to develop enough torque to operate the spool valve. With no resistance, the mechanical part of the box (worm gear) is moving the rack forward which turns the sector shaft, but the hydraulics are really in play yet. If there is resistance to the pitman arms movement, the resulting torque opens the spool valve and allows hydraulic fluid to flow.
Unhook the ram from the tie rod/knuckle, etc. and put the truck back down on it's wheels. Then start it and turn the steering wheel all the way to one side, then back the other way. Repeat until you get all the air out of the ram. Then hook it back up and see what you think.
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