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Bumper mounting

2K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  Gen. Nonsense 
#1 ·
Lets see some pics or hear some ideas on how you've mounted your front and rear bumpers and tied them into the frame rails to withstand pull-points being attached to the bumpers. This is for an SII, assume stock fuel tank in stock location. Hashed out some good ideas for the front with a buddy last night, but haven't decided on a good way to tie in the rear bumper. Whatcha got?
 
#2 ·
im still thinking on the rear bumper as well, but for the front i went with a 6'x4"x4" steel quare tube, and cut out a notch to fit over the front frame crossmember, it uses the 2 stock vertical mounting points and a center horizontal bolt point, and i welded tabs fromt the top down the framerails to prevent pulling it upwards.

 
#4 · (Edited)
i was eyeing up a wrangler bumper the other week

i believe it was made by wilderness website unknown

it was a steel plate bolted to teh crossmember<im picturing using teh stock moubnting holes on my stock bumper mounts <<non step bumper>> drilling a few extra holes & reinforcing if needed>

that was welded solid to a peice of 8x4"? square tubing on each side -- welded solid to that was a 6x2"? "normal" square tubing bumper -- with a tire mount sporting a 35" -- this bumper was rear ended before in a collsion that totalled the jeep --the only damage that was done was the end of the bumper was dent up --that was jsut cut off and R/R-ed
 
#5 · (Edited)
Sandwiched the rear cross member with 3x6x.250 plate and built a bumper out of 3x3x.188 and 2x4x.188. The receiver hitch will be the recovery point.
 

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#8 · (Edited)
The bumper off the truck. Eight 3/8 bolts attach the winch tubes to the frame and eight 3/8 bolts attach the bumper to the frame extensions. My fender trimming caused the loss of the stock turn signals so I put in LEDs. Rock lights and quick connect jumper cables were some added bling.

 
#10 ·
If you're talking about the back bumper, use 2.5" angle (1/4" thick) ~ If you drill holes, dead center, 5" apart (1" from the end and 6" from the end) , they'll line up with the stock frame mounts for the towing bumper.

the angle iron will stick down, but I use the plasma to taper it up as it gets closer to the bumper. The cool thing is that you can make the angle as long/short as you need to accomidate the bumper design.

(I'll double check the measurements when I get to the office)
 
#11 ·
If you're talking about the back bumper, use 2.5" angle (1/4" thick) ~ If you drill holes, dead center, 5" apart (1" from the end and 6" from the end) , they'll line up with the stock frame mounts for the towing bumper.
I haven't done this yet. For the rear bumper cut out the round holes to access the inside of the frame. Insert proper size steel inside frame and use existing holes for the bolt on class three trailer hitch through frame. Then you can add bumper to the steel coming out of frame. Hitch in the middle and two stronger points lined up on the frame rail. Just an idea.
 
#15 ·
Snoopy said:
If you're talking about the back bumper, use 2.5" angle (1/4" thick) ~ If you drill holes, dead center, 5" apart (1" from the end and 6" from the end) , they'll line up with the stock frame mounts for the towing bumper.

the angle iron will stick down, but I use the plasma to taper it up as it gets closer to the bumper. The cool thing is that you can make the angle as long/short as you need to accomidate the bumper design.

(I'll double check the measurements when I get to the office)
I don't fully follow what your saying... wouldn't you have to make a slit in the rear crossmember to allow the leg of the angle go through? or are you talking about letting the verticle leg of the angle stick down?
 
#16 ·
yes you make a slit, but you can weld it back up, or not, its not really too big a deal, i have seen quite a few done this way, and never a bent frame. you have to make your tolerance REALY tight tho, i mean, don't make a slit you could stuff another scout thru :D
 
#17 · (Edited)
Mechanos said:
I don't fully follow what your saying... wouldn't you have to make a slit in the rear crossmember to allow the leg of the angle go through? or are you talking about letting the verticle leg of the angle stick down?
The way I read it is the angle is down. Just like the stock bumper. I suppose you could cut a slit in the frame, or you could just buy a bigger piece of angle and have it "wrap" the frame rather than hanging below.

Like so:
 
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