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Steering arm talk

1K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  ManglerYJ 
#1 ·
I have my flat tops, and need arms. I know what arms I want BUT I need some pics and info.

It seems like when my tie rod goes to the top of even flat arms it might be running into the oil pan. Any of you had a problem with that?

I would like to see pics of Inverted Y setups. I would like to keep the arms short.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Well it seems no lift arms will allow the tie rod to ride under the oil pan without problems.

Lift arms may cause problems

So if I get SKY arms with two holes, I could bolt up and go. Then if I want to change to an Inverted Y setup, I could buy new TRE's and links.

Any thing I should consider?????? Are stock IH TRE's going to fit SKY arms????
 
#4 ·
TravisSSII said:
Any thing I should consider?????? Are stock IH TRE's going to fit SKY arms????
If you are going through the trouble to set up new steering, why would you want to use stock IH TREs? Why not use chebby stuff?
 
#7 ·
BamaScout said:
You gotta make or buy new arms anyways, why not go chevy? They will be cheaper
And much stronger! 7/8" vs 3/4" More movement as well.
 
#9 ·
TravisSSII said:
I can't buy arms for stock IH TRE's?????
Why would you? There weak and cost more than than the 7/8-18 stuff. The stock scout drag link and tie rod fail very easily! The chebby DLE have a much higher range of movement so there won't be any binding.
 
#11 ·
well crap. I also don't have any $$$.

OK. I should just call parts mike, get the Inverted Y TRE's and and the lift arms. I just wanted to get the scout back on the road, and offroad, without the bump steer and death wobble. But It should steer nice and be really strong.

Thanks for putting up with my poor a$$.
 
#12 ·
OK I'm confused.

What the heck are you trying to do??


Do you HAVE arms?
Do you HAVE Tie Rod and Drag Link made?
Do you HAVE your Tie Rod Ends and Drag Link Ends your going to use?


If the above answers are NO, then what people are trying to tell you it to NOT buy/make all this stuff using 1/2T or stock Scout componants. "upgrade" to the "1-Ton" stuff, the 7/8" when you do it. Do it once.

If your trying to make existing stuff work as an "interum" solution, fine, tell us what you have and what your trying to get.

The TRE's are easist to get at your local parts house. And the numbers that you want/need are an easy search, look for posts by Ben W, Old Scout, or Mechnos/Torc, Ben's would probably be my first search.

Look in GEN if you can't find it in IH.

The TR and DL rods will need to be custom made for your application, you get your arms and TR/DLE's and then measure for what you need.

Pitman Arm?? Have you addressed that?


High steer has been well covered, so it shouldn't be too hard to find the basic info you need.... then you can detail it later
 
#13 ·
#14 ·
ES150R and ES150L tie rods ends are a good alternative to the Chevy ends. They are cheaper ($15 from afco racing), they have a standard thread (3/4-16, no special $$$ tap), the taper is the same size as stock scout, and they have almost as much misalignment as chevy drag link ends. The problem is noone makes arms that work with them and its difficult to use them in an inverted T setup. I've been using these TRE's for 3 years and they haven't given me any problems.
 

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#15 ·
Ben W said:
ES150R and ES150L tie rods ends are a good alternative to the Chevy ends. They are cheaper ($15 from afco racing), they have a standard thread (3/4-16, no special $$$ tap), the taper is the same size as stock scout, and they have almost as much misalignment as chevy drag link ends. The problem is noone makes arms that work with them and its difficult to use them in an inverted T setup. I've been using these TRE's for 3 years and they haven't given me any problems.
No need to pay shipping from afco. AZ has them as well:

BV covers the use of the es150 stuff well here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Steering/Steering_4/SteeringV4.htm
 

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#16 ·
I have all stock scout II stuff, except my new 8-bolt Chevy flat tops that I got for $75 and milled, drilled and taped for free. I had them tapped to 9/16-18 because that is the tap the machinist had at my work.

I just wanted to get arms that would allow me to use the SSII steering links I have for now. Then maybe I will have the cash to get all new beefy stuff.

What about getting SKY arms with two holes, using my stock arms then getting new stuff and moving everything to the hole closest to the knuckle.

Parts Mike will only sell arms with one hole, so I would have to get the arms now, AND I have no money.

Hope that clears it all up. Thanks.
 
#17 ·
It is difficult to build arms that allow you to use the stock steering links because the arms usually need to be angled farther inboard than stock to clear the tires and rims. If you have rims with 2" backspacing, it could be done, but the arms would have to be custom. I can't picture what a stock scout tie rod looks like, is there a way to shorten it a couple inches? Will Sky make you arms with the smaller taper for the scout TRE's? Scout TREs will NOT work in arms set up for Chevy TREs.
 
#18 ·
Thanks Ben.

I was wondering if the stock TRE's would be to small for the holes.

Looks like I need to spend the money and get new rods / links. If I get new rods / links they will have new TRE's.

I never wanted to use the scout TRE's on new links. I wanted to use the whole drag link and tie rod, hints the cheap thing. I think the arms would work if the would fit the steering arms.
 
#19 ·
If your a cheap bastard, and you realise it WILL NOT hold up to extended use... you might be able to build something like this:


thats all modified/butcherd SII stuff.

I found I could cut about 1/2" off each side of the Tie-Rod and that worked out for the steering arms I was using (made by Ben as a mater of fact). The arms were made with the small taper.

The Drag link was shortened by cutting a chunk out of the middle and then sleaving it with a piece of 1" square stock I had handy, and lots of plug welds.

The block is a piece of 1/2", well-welded to the drag link, then a tapered hole drilled into it.


When I built it I borrowed a reamer from a local 4x4 shop. I know have one of my own for when I upgraded the parts to the 1-Ton units.



The above piece of crap got my by for a while... booty yes, but I knew it and had/have plans to build it right.
 
#20 ·
Get a hold of JOE. He has the Lh/Rh 7/8-18 taps and can save you some dough on the DL/TR. The four ends and DOM will ~160.00
 
#21 ·
RustoleumWhite said:
If your a cheap bastard, and you realise it WILL NOT hold up to extended use... you might be able to build something like this:


thats all modified/butcherd SII stuff.

I found I could cut about 1/2" off each side of the Tie-Rod and that worked out for the steering arms I was using (made by Ben as a mater of fact). The arms were made with the small taper.

The Drag link was shortened by cutting a chunk out of the middle and then sleaving it with a piece of 1" square stock I had handy, and lots of plug welds.

The block is a piece of 1/2", well-welded to the drag link, then a tapered hole drilled into it.


When I built it I borrowed a reamer from a local 4x4 shop. I know have one of my own for when I upgraded the parts to the 1-Ton units.



The above piece of crap got my by for a while... booty yes, but I knew it and had/have plans to build it right.

I thought about building something similar, but out of all new materials. I figured a tie rod made out of thick walled tube with the weld in slugs to accept es150l + es150r tie rod ends. Since I have a Jeep pitman arm, I'd need the Dodge equivalent tie rod end for the drag link and then at the knuckle end of the drag link, I'd use a 3/4" -16 heim joint and a double shear mount on the tie rod. Similar, but I feel it should have less chance of failure.

One of these days I'll buy the materials and mock it up.
 
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