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Bondo thickness ?'s

1K views 22 replies 15 participants last post by  justscoutin 
#1 ·
Bondo sucks, I know. PO must have gotten too close to a tree and did some damage to the bottom end of the drivers side door. This weekend I tried to pull the dent(s) out but found it pretty hard. Beatin' on older american steel is not the same as newer vehicles :eek: Anyway, I got most of it out with a good size slide hammer and rubber mallet but it still has a good size divet in the metal. Started to fill it in with bondo and then shaved it down and will add another "coat" in the next few days. I'm a little concerned about filler cracks. Paint won't be nothing more than krylon as the door is two tone (factory paint was not touched above the two tone line). The other color is white krylon (original two tone paint was a root beer brown :barf: so I changed it to white) and this was the area affected. I figure in some of the more difficult spots that I had a heck of time pulling it may be close to 1/2". Anyone see any problems? Thanks.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Old Scout said:
Anything over a .250" has a good chance of popping off. Anything over .120 means your a hack! :flipoff2:
Yea, thats what I figuered. Any suggestions on how to get the steel to budge (its in the area right where the bottom of the door skin folds over)? Maybe I need to pick up a king size slide hammer. I guess I'll pull what bondo I put on there and try to rework the metal.

Oh, I forgot to include some love: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 
#6 ·
pityocamptes said:
Yea, thats what I figuered. Any suggestions on how to get the steel to budge (its in the area right where the bottom of the door skin folds over)? Maybe I need to pick up a king size slide hammer. I guess I'll pull what bondo I put on there and try to rework the metal.

Oh, I forgot to include some love: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
Were are you? A "new" door would be easer. There cheap and easy to come by around here.
 
#7 ·
Deskin the door or What I would do Weld a Big thick plate of 3/8 steel plate over it!!! That will teach them errant trees or Ricers. :D Do you know of anyone with a Harbor Freight Hyd body set. It has a little hyd speader dealy that will fit in there. Dealy is tech for I don't know the FFFFing name. :flipoff2: I actually have one and use it to push my rear caps back out so the tailights will fit back in after I wheel. :)
 
#8 · (Edited)
Old Scout said:
Were are you? A "new" door would be easer. There cheap and easy to come by around here.

Well, I'm cheap and have some (yea right) standards
:eek: Basically I don't want to have to repaint the whole rig (cheap) and yet I don't want the rig to look like its been pieced together (standards) - you know the ones, red door, blue body, green hood, red top, etc.


Anyone done any leading? I've got sticks of lead and was wondering how hard it would be to fill the metal in with lead (probably harder than its worth). Guess I'll have to whip out the big guns (ballpen hammer :D )
 
#10 ·
pityocamptes said:
Well, I'm cheap and have some (yea right) standards
:eek: Basically I don't want to have to repaint the whole rig (cheap) and yet I don't want the rig to look like its been pieced together (standards) - you know the ones, red door, blue body, green hood, red top, etc.
Well I'm cheap, but lazy and hating body work made me >......................

:flipoff2:
 

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#11 · (Edited)
Your a hack if you use a slide hammer anyway. Why dont you go buy a decent hammer and dolly set from eastwood. Leading is cool, but if it's as thick as you are going to make the bondo, you are just a hack by another name. Claw and ballpeen hammers make you a butcher as well as a hack. If you buy the right tools you can always learn how to use them properly and lose the hack/butcher name.
 
#12 ·
...let me get this right, a thread about removing a dent from a door and trying to keep it pretty and no one freaked out yet?

take the door off, throw it away. dent is gone, and the scout is cooler
 
#13 ·
61scout80 said:
...let me get this right, a thread about removing a dent from a door and trying to keep it pretty and no one freaked out yet?

take the door off, throw it away. dent is gone, and the scout is cooler
What he said.

And then mail me your door hinges. Mine are worn out.
 
#14 ·
61scout80 said:
...let me get this right, a thread about removing a dent from a door and trying to keep it pretty and no one freaked out yet?

take the door off, throw it away. dent is gone, and the scout is cooler

Sounds great, especially when I see a riceburner come barreling through an intersection and its just me and bullet proof air
:flipoff2:
 
#15 ·
orangeamcs said:
Your a hack if you use a slide hammer anyway. Why dont you go buy a decent hammer and dolly set from eastwood. Leading is cool, but if it's as thick as you are going to make the bondo, you are just a hack buy another name. Claw and ballpeen hammers make you a butcher as well as a hack. If you buy the right tools you can always learn how to use them properly and lose the hack/butcher name.

OK I can see it being a hack job on some 50K benz but a scout? Just trying to improve it aesthetically but don't want to spend all week getting the steel skin laser straight.
 
#20 ·
orangeamcs said:
Your a hack if you use a slide hammer anyway. Why dont you go buy a decent hammer and dolly set from eastwood. Leading is cool, but if it's as thick as you are going to make the bondo, you are just a hack by another name. Claw and ballpeen hammers make you a butcher as well as a hack. If you buy the right tools you can always learn how to use them properly and lose the hack/butcher name.
Don't know your background, BUT I will stand behind my number 9 wackenknocker slide hamer on scout body work any day. I am old school just like my dad who left me his body tools. I still use longs boards (in fact 1 of them is the one my mom got as an aniversary gift) as well as a good set of hammers and tools. Eastwood is expensive and not the best tools around. I do not do bodywork as a profession, but I did make the top 5 in the state of Washington students in 1980. I grew up working in the body shop with my dad. My other job was in my grandfathers wrecking yard. I know a little about how to take em apart and how to beat them.

Now since I use a slide hammer - you can call me a hack if you feel the need, but I tell you, you best be sure you know what your talking about here.

Ritch
 
#21 ·
pityocamptes said:
Sounds great, especially when I see a riceburner come barreling through an intersection and its just me and bullet proof air
:flipoff2:
That's all you need.. you, and bulletproof air..

Where do you live that the ricerburners are so big they won't just pass under the Scout completely.. everything but the big frickin' wing on the back, that is..
 
#23 ·
sounds like you need to lift the scout so they go under you! anyhow, the thicker bondo is, the more prone to cracking, but as long as you apply it to rust free metal, and cover it with epoxy primer so no moisture at all is allowed to get into the bondo, it will hold for a dang long time. never ever watersand bondo, or use the spraycan grey chalk primer as it lets moisture into the bondo and the rust will knock it loose. but you probably already knew that. mud it, spray it, and ride some more!
 
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