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Caster?

958 views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  Diesel Smoke 
#1 ·
Ok, still more rear steer questions.

I know how to do the whole cut and turn on a standard 44 front. But seeing as how this axle will be a rear steering axle, do I put negative caster in it? So as its going down the road backward essentially, the caster is pointing the right way. If I had used a front axle turned around, would I have had horrible handleing?

Also, been looking at steering valves with a laod centering or 'return to center' type feature. Good idea or bad? I know I'll have some sort of lockout feature for highway travel, but what about every where else. I'm sure id forget on some gravel road in between trails and do a crazy donut on accident.
 
#2 ·
I wouldn't even think about having the rear steer active on the street (locking mechanism to lock the rear steer on the street). That being said, and only using the rear steer on the trail at trail speeds, caster is not going to be a factor. I'd set it at 0°.
 
#5 ·
Duh!, I'm not planning on using this on the street at all. But, my scout II when stock, with 31's and 0* caster was a bitch to drive sometimes. So by putting a 0* axle in the rear, wouldnt it cause problems too? I guess not cuz rear axles have 0* now. I'll just have to make sure I dont have any camber on the knuckle, then 0* would be fine.

Also, I will have 2 locking mechanisms. 1 manual with a hitch pin or something I have to physically remove and another I can activate from the cab. That way when I come off the trail and have 5 miles of gravel road I can just lock it from the cab. on the 70 mile drive home I can lock it solid.

I want to do this sort of right ( :flipoff2: ) so get used to seeing a lot of dumb newbie type questions from me. The housing is headed off to Axle Master next week for tube removal and installation.
 
#7 ·
I dont understand why everyone keeps bringing up ball joints. Are they weak? I have seen old ones get wobbly after a lot of hard use, but never catastrophic failure. I put the front of Red up to some serious task before and no problems there. And thats with a 392 and a lot of other heavy things above it. I know there is the whole weight transfer thing 'cuz its in the rear, but really, a 4K lb truck, 100HP MAX, 37's, 4 link suspension. Am I really gonna have that many problems with this set up?
 
#8 ·
binderbound said:
Am I really gonna have that many problems with this set up?
In all honesty yes I think you will. If you wheel it. Driven on flat ground it would probably be fine.
How often did you try to BACK red up steep hills?
It's a different idea and I'm all about trying new different things I just would hate to see you put lots of effort into this and have it not work out for you.
 
#9 ·
Red spent a lot of time going backward, unfortunately.

Is it going to be that much weaker than a 30 spline rear shaft? I know the steering joints are the weak link. Thats why I said I'd like to use the superior shafts and CTM's, hopfully eliminate the weak spot. You still never said why ball joints are weak?

Even If I got the 35 spline 60 I'd still have to have the tubes swapped around and custom shafts made.
 
#11 ·
binderbound said:
You still never said why ball joints are weak?
I don't think there is a answer why. They just are.
In all honesty if you don't use high steer arms, set the scrub radius to zero or close to zero and were real carefull about when you use the rear steer it may have a chance at living.
You can build it if you want to and I would be interested to see how it holds up and works out, I just have my doubts. :)
 
#12 ·
The whole thing was just kinda thinking out loud. It sounds good on paper, but in real life, who knows. It wont have full lock to lock ability, but close.

I might have a free c-1300 coming my way. With D70 front. Not to copy Shadow man, but this could be a useable thing. I mean comon, Rick trashes an Aristocrat, Carl trashes a Champagne, why cant I use an IH 70 front in the rear of an 80? Thats what I thought :flipoff2:
 
#14 ·
I don't think you will have a ball joint problem untell one of the axel u-joints let go and peg the ball joint, in which case it's no worse then having it happen up front. I have a old bronco that the ball joints are so bad you can't drive it safely on the highway and it has seen a lot of air time in the dunes forward, backwards, sideways, just about everyway but on it's top and never had a ball joint problem.
 
#16 ·
The Joker said:
Do you two have the poor Scout torn apart again? Guess I will have to make another run over to see what kind of trouble you are causing now.

Head on over, it still in one piece. All this is for Dan's new project. On our trail trip to Naches, Dan lost his engine/brakes on a hill and totaled his trail rig. Everbody okay, but the rig was either rebuild from the ground up or part. So he parting it and moving onto a new Scout.
 
#17 ·
Diesel Smoke said:
Head on over, it still in one piece. All this is for Dan's new project. On our trail trip to Naches, Dan lost his engine/brakes on a hill and totaled his trail rig. Everbody okay, but the rig was either rebuild from the ground up or part. So he parting it and moving onto a new Scout.

I hate it when that happens. So are you two out there working on it most nights? If you are going to be working tonight I will try to swing by and see whats going on.
 
#18 ·
The Joker said:
I hate it when that happens. So are you two out there working on it most nights? If you are going to be working tonight I will try to swing by and see whats going on.
I should be out there tonight, probably pretty late so I can beat the heat. I would offer to take you for a ride, but I will most likely be rebuilding the shift linkage. If you feel the need, stop on by!
Carl
 
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