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Old 09-17-2006, 04:06 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Sorry I didnt post this sooner, but I ran out of time. I spent the last two weeks in Fort Dix NJ. Lots of fun.... Here is how I fixed it. I brought home some 20 ga. sheet metal from work and rebuilt the underside. I also treated all of the rust with rust converter. What you dont see are the eight or so places under the wind sheild that were eaten threw. I had to cut all of them out and replace the steel there too. Pay no attention to some of the globby welds on the right side. I burned threw in a few places, and figured, "hell, nobody well even see them." So I didnt bother grinding them off.

As far as tubing...not yet we'll see how this works first. Oh and I busted my damn windsheild whild taking it out. Only had four inches to go. Damn the luck.

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Old 09-18-2006, 06:52 PM   #27 (permalink)
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That is dedication. Most of us on the west coast would never try to revive one in that shape. Good for you, I guess - whatever floats your boat.
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Old 09-20-2006, 05:14 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Nice to see someone building a Traveler. As a daily driver they're a nice ride and they still work off road. With a 118" wheel base it will never be perfect on the trail but you'll find that it will make some obsticles look very easy while those with a 100" wb are having trouble. Course it goes both ways, nice job.
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Old 10-07-2006, 06:03 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Ok Today finished up motor mounts. I did'nt like how high the engine was (it was almost popping a wheelie), so I dropped it down 1 1/2 to 2". I made the the block mount out of 1/4" cold rolled and the frame mount out of 2" square .250 wall tubing and leaf spring bushings. I also put in a larger radiator fan and new door glass this week.
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Old 10-08-2006, 09:34 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoopy
Sorry man, thats too much rust, you're going to have to tube it out now.


Tubing is for people that can't do bodywork!!


Good work on your ride, stay with it.

On your motor mounts, I would gusset it down to the bottom of the frame.
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Old 10-08-2006, 04:17 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Your updates are some of the best. They are short, to the point, always with pictures, and a good explaination of what you did.

Chris
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Old 10-08-2006, 06:12 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadow man
On your motor mounts, I would gusset it down to the bottom of the frame.
Yup me too. Ill get to it later. yesterday my welder was acting up. The lead needs to be replaced. It arced across over to both my oil pan and my fuel pump plus a three inch long peice of hot metal fell down my shirt while I was under the truck. So as you can tell I was pretty pissed off by the time I got that far. So I called it the day before I screwed something up.


Quote:
Originally Posted by nooblet
Your updates are some of the best. They are short, to the point, always with pictures, and a good explaination of what you did.
Thanks
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:41 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Old 10-18-2006, 06:39 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Exhaust

I got around to putting in the exhaust. I Started with some chrome block hugger headers. I first put them up on the mill and milled the gasket surface to make sure they were flat, which they weren't. Then I went to work with the die grinder, I ground the welds back and made sure the ports were not obstructed. Then I started from the front and worked my way back. I installed the headers. Then using several U and J-bends I cut and fabed the down pipes and cross-over. Notice on the Passenger side I offset the pipe close to the frame to allow access to the starter.

Note: the before and after pics of the headers. You can expect them to turn blue.



I came out of the headers with 2.5" Pipe and crossed under the bell housing and into a Flowmaster scavenging y-pipe. I used pipe clamps at the y-pipe inlet and both ends of the muffler to allow easy disassembly



I then came out of the y-pipe with 3" and into a Flowmaster SUV 50 series muffler. After the muffler I used a long taper reducer back down to 2.5". By the time gasses get this far down the pipe they have cooled quite a bit and become denser. Necking the pipes back down keep the exhaust gas velocity up. Then I went out the back on the drivers side. It had a little "tin can" sound at first. But after a week of driving it has mellowed down quite a bit. Its quiet at idle without that deep drone, but sounds awesome when you get on it. But on the freeway at 65-70 mph and 2800 rpm's it is a little louder than I'd like. Maybe a turn down will help...

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Old 10-18-2006, 08:56 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Sure beats mashing the crap out of the pipe to get by the transfer case I did not see one of those Y pipe at the local hot rod shop. Will need to keep looking
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Old 10-18-2006, 09:29 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I'm impressed.
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Old 10-18-2006, 09:32 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Speaking of headers. Those don't get anywhere close to the frame. Very interesting. Can you give me a measurement between the header and the inside of the frame?

The reason I'm asking is because if I want to narrow the frame to allow tighter turning, I'm wondering how narrow I can go without problems with exhaust hitting the frame rail.

Thanks man.
D
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Old 10-18-2006, 09:41 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R290
Sure beats mashing the crap out of the pipe to get by the transfer case I did not see one of those Y pipe at the local hot rod shop. Will need to keep looking
I got it from Summit Racing. Part #FLO-Y250300 for $39.88 which is a little pricey to me, but it is built very well and suppose to help in scavenging gasses.
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Old 10-19-2006, 10:19 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoopy
Speaking of headers. Those don't get anywhere close to the frame. Very interesting. Can you give me a measurement between the header and the inside of the frame?
D

Yea, I have right at 3" from the inside of the frame, to the collector flange. But on the drivers side, the #1 primary is within 1 1/2" from touching the corner of the steering box. So moving the engine back an 2" or so would give me plenty of room. And there is plenty of room to move it back 3"-4".
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Old 10-21-2006, 09:12 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Very nice. Thanks. I'm looking to build a Scout 800 frame, narrowed as much as I can. The engine will be in the 4-cyl location so it should clear the headers no prob.

Thanks.
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Old 10-21-2006, 01:20 PM   #41 (permalink)
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IH mill ≠ Chevy mill ..... the measurements are meaningless without a reference.
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Old 10-22-2006, 08:42 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Any progress this weekend?

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Old 10-23-2006, 05:14 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Any progress this weekend?
Yea, a little. This weekend I replaced a few gaskets. I think I got a crappy gasket set when I built the engine. So I had to replace the Intake manifold gasket and the oil pan gasket. I used felpro this time and if any of you have never used the felpro one piece oil pan gasket, I highly recommend it. It was worth the $20.00. I also installed some energy suspension body mount bushings. They gave me another half inch of lift and really stiffened things up. I also put on a 14" breather, then went out and did some light off-roading for the first time. It did better than I expected.

And what is that, Morse Code????
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Old 10-23-2006, 09:51 AM   #44 (permalink)
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DOH! Good catch Mech. Thanks
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Old 08-20-2007, 12:14 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Did you finish everything? You would be the first Post an update
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:32 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Did you finish everything? You would be the first Post an update


Due to my current situation, I am unable to any work on my truck... But come next spring, with the deployment, devorce and several other unforseen events out of the way, you can expect some good updates. Right now I am just putting my money into a new welder (Miller 212) and a donar vehicle (early 90's Chevy 3/4ton) I have a good plan on what I intend to do...

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Old 08-27-2007, 10:52 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:19 AM   #48 (permalink)
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My how time flies when you have too many irons in the fire. So its time to get back on this project. Ive been putting all my coins away for some time saving up to build a shop in the back yard. So when I finally get the money and the materials put together the rainy season kicks in. So I went back to school to finish my degree for the next two semesters and this month I am finally out for the summer.

So here is where I am at. I have the concrete forms up and as soon as the weather holds out I will put pour out the slab. I also have the material for the shop stacked up behind the house.. (I'm building it out of steel/foam panels). It shouldn't take more than a couple of days to actually up the shop up with the help of a few buddies.

Now on to the truck. I went to an old bone yard the other day and found an HP Dana 44 and a Dana 60 (both 8 lugs) on this Ford Bronco and the guy wants $500 for the pair...

I also found a 70'ish 1 Ton Power wagon with full running gear. Im not sure what he is asking for these axles....http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...07#post9868007

Do Ya think its a good buy?

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Old 05-25-2009, 11:29 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Due to my current situation, I am unable to any work on my truck... But come next spring, with the deployment, devorce and several other unforseen events out of the way, you can expect some good updates. Right now I am just putting my money into a new welder (Miller 212) and a donar vehicle (early 90's Chevy 3/4ton) I have a good plan on what I intend to do...

really nice build and fab work,don't feel bad about the down time,all of us are in the same boat.i personally have a build here that's 4 years in the making and currently doing another one.

do what you have to do, and it will all happen.once you have the shop with some room it usually helps quite a bit.

and by the way,thanks for what you do over there,i have a lot of military friends and live in a military town.and it's guys like you that allow guys like me to do what i want.

all the best man, now get that truck done!. and we need more pics!
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Old 05-25-2009, 02:00 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Thanks for your service, Im glad you made it back safe and sound. Forget about that old Dodge. Is the bronco leaf sprung in the front? Is the rear 35 spline? Lockers? The gears you want? If not yes to all those questions I would move along. It looks to me like it is becoming a lot more of a buyers market for front 60's these days, Id look at your local craigslist, here, and locally on ebay.
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