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Old 11-16-2009, 05:39 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Very nice work.

Your shop seems a little better equipt than most. I have jack stands and BOTH types of screwdrivers...
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Old 11-16-2009, 05:44 PM   #77 (permalink)
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I know right! I couldn't make any of that shit, even if I used all my hammers.
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Old 11-16-2009, 06:18 PM   #78 (permalink)
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awsome work man! whatta ya have in it time wise so far?
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Old 11-16-2009, 09:44 PM   #79 (permalink)
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This is exactly what this forum needs. Good, clean work. A lot of the rigs on this site are ridiculously overbuilt. Nice job.
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Old 11-17-2009, 04:45 AM   #80 (permalink)
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awsome work man! whatta ya have in it time wise so far?
Hmmm... thats kinda hard to say. See I do most of my work on a fifteen minuet breaks here...... and 30 min at lunch there..... Only a couple of times did I come in after work was spent measuring and running bolt patterns and sketching up the design... Im guessing 20 hrs with all the stop and go time. from start to finish.

If I had to do it again..... I could do it in around 4 give or take.
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Old 11-26-2009, 10:10 AM   #81 (permalink)
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After a little paint it was ready to install. The whole thing went in without a challenge, and I was even able to use the original cross member (which I was kinda shocked about. I forgot just how much smaller the 700r4 was than the International 727. Now I have a ton of space in the tunnel….

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Old 11-26-2009, 10:16 AM   #82 (permalink)
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Now the drive shaft has to be cut down four inches. After a little work with a wire wheel I chucked the shaft up in the lathe and sanded all of the undercoating off of it. Once it was cleaned up I indicated it in and placed a steady rest under the end to stabilize it when I parted off the end.



Once I had the shaft turning true I cut a center in the end to help me later when I weld it up. Then I put a paint marker on the tool post and drew some reference lines down the length of the shaft to help me keep the yoke in phase.



Using a parting tool I cut threw the weld and pulled off the yoke cap.



Next I moved the carriage down 3.875” and cut the shaft to length.



Then I filed down the internal weld seem and beveled the corners a little. Using the lines I drew earlier, I tapped the yoke end back on…..

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Old 11-26-2009, 11:29 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Love the detail and pictures. Good show man.
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Old 11-26-2009, 02:43 PM   #84 (permalink)
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{drooling on}Nice tools... {drooling off}
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Old 11-26-2009, 05:50 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Lucky basterd.
I've got access to the lathe and mill but no CNC machine.
Nice build btw, keep up the good work and keep us posted.
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Old 11-26-2009, 06:44 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Lucky basterd.
I've got access to the lathe and mill but no CNC machine.
Nice build btw, keep up the good work and keep us posted.
Yea.... being a Tool and Die maker has its perks.....
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:20 AM   #87 (permalink)
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While all the crazy people were out shopping the black Friday sales, I went in to the shop and run a bead.... using the tail stock to keep the yoke in place, so the weld would not pull it out of location....

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Old 11-27-2009, 09:38 PM   #88 (permalink)
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What process are you using on these beads?
GTAW or GMAW?
Either way, they don't look too bad.
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Old 11-28-2009, 05:28 AM   #89 (permalink)
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What process are you using on these beads?
GTAW or GMAW?
Either way, they don't look too bad.
GMAW.... My TIG welder at the shop is very large and cannot be moved.... I used a little 110v MIG that I have at the house in order to weld it while it was still in the chuck.
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Old 12-06-2009, 06:27 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Well, after doing all the transmission work, installing a new HEI distributor then driving the truck for a couple of weeks, I could not be happier with the results. In fact I think these upgrades are working a bit too well. I am still tuning the distributor but for the most part have it running well with 10 degree's base timing and a mechanical advance re-curve kit (one light and one med spring). The truck is running cooler, smoother, quieter than ever. But I know now that I have to drop in some lower gears.... At 75 MPH the engine is barely at 1900 RPMs...
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Old 12-15-2009, 05:23 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Wash, Rinse, Repeat.....

I lengthened the front shaft to 29" (fully collapsed) using a peice of 1.25" Dia - 3/16 wall DOM I had laying around.




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Old 12-15-2009, 08:10 PM   #92 (permalink)
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WAY too much tech for a tuesday. Nice job on the doubler.
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Old 12-23-2009, 04:05 PM   #93 (permalink)
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WAY too much tech for a tuesday. Nice job on the doubler.


That's not a doubler... That's an adpater...
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Old 01-03-2015, 03:09 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Well I have been gone for a bit, but its time to move ahead with this project

Well, I've been out for a bit....So after another deployment followed by remodeling my house, finishing my degree, moving forward in my career and enjoying myself for the past four years its time to move this project along.

I had plenty of time off to plan exactly what I am going to do (as long as I don’t change my mind again). So I am starting with a full tear down. I am moving rear axle back about 4 inches on links and coil overs, then pushing the front axle forward about 2 inches on radius arms. I'll leave the lift below 4 inches and cut the body to fit 37" Tires.

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

For the engine I was going to leave it fairly mild... but one day a guy walks into my shop with a walk in job. Turns out he has a side business that focuses on performance products for the Ford Thunderbirds and V-6 supercharged engines. After working on his projects for a couple years he has convinced me. I am going to have him help me with twin superchargers and fuel injection…
[IMG][/IMG]

But first things first., and the first purchase is an Eaton E-locker and some 4.55 gears.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 01-18-2015, 01:18 PM   #95 (permalink)
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It lives

Ill be watching, getting some inspiration for a future build for the wife.
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Old 01-18-2015, 06:37 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Sweet, nice to see some of the older threads come back to life.
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Old 03-29-2015, 05:17 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Got some components in.

So I received a hand full of components in to continue my build. Got the Eaton E-locker, Open carrier for the front, some 4.56 ring and pinion gears, bearings and rod ends... I will be taking the rear end to work this weed to build a truss and I spend all of my down time wire brushing undercoating off the frame... what a bitch that is... I'm still looking for a supplier for the coil overs if you guys have a suggestion.

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Old 04-20-2015, 08:45 PM   #98 (permalink)
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welcome back, why are you staying with the stock axles knowing the hp that is on the way?
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:26 AM   #99 (permalink)
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welcome back, why are you staying with the stock axles knowing the hp that is on the way?
x2, there's no way I'd spend that much money and time on 44's. Or on a 350 for that matter.
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Old 04-21-2015, 10:49 AM   #100 (permalink)
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x2, there's no way I'd spend that much money and time on 44's. Or on a 350 for that matter.
I'm sort of in the same boat as the OP, when I started my Scout build LS based engines were still really expensive so a 350 made sense. I've watched them drop at least 1/2 in price and its tempting me to make the switch before I ever even get it running with the current 350.

Tahcustomscout, I'm digging this build and all the machine work. Keep it rolling.

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