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Old 05-14-2010, 09:20 PM   #51 (permalink)
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nothing exciting, but anyone who has done sheetmetal work knows how tedious this shit is. Both skins are 80 percent don in the back. Just waiting on a skim coat of bondo and cutting the arch for the fenders. Also started working on the top stretch. Lots of rivets and adhesive to deal with. Imtrying to use most of the roof of one because it is more straight than the other. I know, this gives no perspective on effort, but at least use your imagination on how it WILL look.





Still cant decide if i should cut more out of the rockers or not. The damn footwell is already so small.
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Old 05-14-2010, 10:01 PM   #52 (permalink)
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I'd leave the rockers cut where you have them. You go higher you'll have to cut the doors to fit. Like where this build is going. Looking good.
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Old 11-03-2010, 08:36 PM   #53 (permalink)
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so nothing exciting, but lots of time invested, mesauring, leveling, remeaswuring, welding, cutting, leveling, measuring, you get the picture. A master welder I am clearly not, so


started by overbuilding the shit out of the frame rails. flat plate with holes every 6 or so inches on center *i forget, its been going on for a few months). the expectation is I will have to cut for 205 clearance, and dont want to sacrifice any strength as i play with 4/3 links, etc. I still have to weld all the factory seams, as they look like they were welded by my 4 year old.

Ran lots of crossbars to keep from warping the frame



kind of hard to see, but the top piece (actually the bottom of the rail) has several small holes in it, with nuts welded onto the backside. Figured i use those holes for the belly pan and boatside mounts.



I had wanted to run rear radius arms or links in the back, but just dont have the money, knowledge r time right now. i want this thing running for next spring. Im gonna use 64" chevies I have. Looking at stretching the rear axle back 8 inches to go along with the body stretch. Actually ends up with the front mount 1" forward from stock.

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Old 11-03-2010, 08:36 PM   #54 (permalink)
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I extended the frame with some 2x4x.188 wall rec. tube. These are the first round of inner gussets, with more bracing to come. Gained 2 and 3/8 inche clearance for rear fuel tank with changing the tube. I cut 28" off the factory horns, and added 37" of 2x4



Can see how the outside of the tube comes up the stock frame about 10" or so. Can also see the rest of the frame and new front body mounts



better shot of the front body mount. Built with a 2" body lift into it. i will cut the square tube flush with the outside of the frame rail once I trial fit everything. A single lower gusset and a single lateral, should be enough.








Where the Cage radius arms mouns will end up with a 5" forward push. may bring these back another inch to end up with only 4 inches of front push.




9 extra inches of frame ( I wish it was that easy) , and im still putting the rear shackle mount of the end of the axle. its 59" back from the front hanger. This is based on my current, hevier rig, so i may have to push it forward an inch or so. I have a rear 2x2x.188 rear bumper/winch mount to put on there from the current rig, so the hangers wont just be sitting out there.



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Old 11-03-2010, 09:24 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Looking Good...
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:59 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Dang Damon your 4 year old welds better than me.

It looks like this is gonna be a sweet rig when all said and done.
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:45 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Dang you have been busy I like the cross members. My frame still flexes a lot. Maybe if I could drop 2,000 pounds that would help
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Old 11-04-2010, 08:24 AM   #58 (permalink)
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why is the seam on the outside of the frame?
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:02 AM   #59 (permalink)
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why is the seam on the outside of the frame?

In the rear? I was trying to make make space for a 25 gallon ford fuel tank that is 31.5 inches wide.

Craig, the crossmembers are just temporary, Ill be cutting all the factory xmembers out.
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Old 11-04-2010, 10:16 AM   #60 (permalink)
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looking good dude, you are doing a lot of work and that frame is going to be so solid.

let me know when you are at the stage you can start putting the body and engine back on, i would be glad to come up and help you out for a couple days. we could probably get a lot done, or at least drink a lot of beer...
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Old 11-04-2010, 03:18 PM   #61 (permalink)
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yeah, that will be great
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Old 11-04-2010, 08:32 PM   #62 (permalink)
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nice fab work , looks good. Looks like you need a rotisserie for all that work.
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:32 PM   #63 (permalink)
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nice fab work , looks good. Looks like you need a rotisserie for all that work.
yeah, that would be really helpful instead of the 'armstrong' shit I have going on.
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Old 11-06-2010, 10:33 PM   #64 (permalink)
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That frame is beefy! You shouldn't have any problems with that. Glad to see you making some progress.
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:27 PM   #65 (permalink)
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is it worth welding all the old seams? they look like crap from factory, so I figured it couldnt hurt, but is anyone having issues with it?






What about this: Since I have filled in most of the holes in the middle of the frame rails, is it worth trying to seal all the holes in the frame? Or do I need those, and prolly more in the middle, for water/rust issues?
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:47 PM   #66 (permalink)
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What about this: Since I have filled in most of the holes in the middle of the frame rails, is it worth trying to seal all the holes in the frame? Or do I need those, and prolly more in the middle, for water/rust issues?
Yes, drain holes are good.

We had a work weekend in the spring & Craig drilled a hole in the Cheeses's bumper & it peed for 5 minutes.
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Old 11-09-2010, 07:44 AM   #67 (permalink)
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I see a couple factory holes in the frame. Leave them!! Those are good to take measurements off of later when comparing to other peoples junk, plus you can see if your frame is still square as they make good reference marks. AAA likes to put there tie-in hooks there too, not that it will see AAA.

Also like Mike said it needs to pee or it will rust out. The cheeses bumper was only a year old and collected the water by condensation, about a 1/2 gallon, after a bit we got an oil pan to collect it.
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Old 11-09-2010, 09:03 AM   #68 (permalink)
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so I take it i should put a few holes in here then?

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Old 11-09-2010, 02:16 PM   #69 (permalink)
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so I take it i should put a few holes in here then?
You need at least one in each rail.

But I see one here.



and here, so your good unless those are old pic's




Edit... since you like Fordyce you could drill a 1/4" hole in the lowest point once its all built, just to be sure.
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Old 11-09-2010, 03:08 PM   #70 (permalink)
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those holes there are actually on the kick ups, and are not the lowest point, so i will plan to do so.

on a side note, the frame goes back under the rig finally, time to tear the bronco apart for parts and hang the motor, anyone wanna help?
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Old 11-09-2010, 03:40 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Damon. I got my hands full this 4 day with work and getting those springs under my scout. But I am down to give you a hand.
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Old 11-09-2010, 07:08 PM   #72 (permalink)
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I told you I would burn those perches on for you.
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Old 11-09-2010, 08:37 PM   #73 (permalink)
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I told you I would burn those perches on for you.
I know, I know but I can do it easy enough. I have been practicing my welding, and I like these little projects. Plus I am borrowing Curts plasma cutter this 4 day to hack some other junk off my rig.
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Old 11-10-2010, 05:55 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Its gonna be a big bitch

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Old 11-10-2010, 05:58 PM   #75 (permalink)
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You mean a bad ass bitch!
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