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Old 01-21-2011, 03:06 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Looking good Damon; You have tons under you so don't be afraid to raise the C/G a bit. Get that flat skid plate.
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:48 PM   #102 (permalink)
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got some different headers, ford small block guys take not. These fit much better. was able to pull the motor up and back, I think this is where I will stab it. Crank bolt appears to be at 35 at ride height, top tranny bolt is about 41

old header clearance, this was actually touching



new header clearance didnt move the motor at all


header comparo. These are summit cheapo headers on the bottom, smog leagal for the year with block hugger headers on top, non smog.




link to headers, will work on 351 or 302
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SU...5&autoview=sku

new height




old height. its not much higher, but further back by 2" or so

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Last edited by plug ugly; 01-24-2011 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 01-26-2011, 02:10 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Don't forget to leave a bit of room for insulation.

A lot of newer trucks have a foil and fiberglass shield which helps reflect heat and insulate the floor pan from transmission and engine heat. Would be nice to fit one of those in there.
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:34 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Im gonna coat the headers, coat both sides of the fireway with spary on insulation (lizard skin), make heat shields along the exhaust, and "rhino" line it. If its still too hot, Ill do some sort of other shield.
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Old 01-27-2011, 09:58 PM   #105 (permalink)
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motor is mounted. needs finish welding and some gussets. Ill have to trim the pass footwell just a little bit.



drivers side will have no cutting



motor is offset 1 7/8







I figured cut once, fill later



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Old 01-27-2011, 11:25 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Motor Mounts and Driveshaft

Very nice!

Going with a driver side drop really does reduce the amount of firewall cutting that's necessary.

How long do you expect your rear drive shaft is going to be? Is your transfer case level with the bottom of the frame? I ask as I have a NP241C sitting in my Scout 80 right now that I'm finalizing the position for. It looks like my rear drive shaft will be just a little longer than yours so I'm curious how your driveline angles are going to work out.

You also mentioned that you sourced your motor mounts from a Bronco vendor. I would appreciate it if you can say who and provide a part number.

Thanks

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Old 01-28-2011, 08:39 AM   #107 (permalink)
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the rear shaft is gonna be about 28 to 29 inches with a double cardan rear shaft. The front shaft is gonna be at 48 or so, I may look at doing an intermediate shaft????????

Belly pan is totally smooth, 205 is above the rails.


motor mounts can be had from Toms Bronco parts, Driven Auto or Jeffs Bronco graveyard.
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Old 01-28-2011, 10:05 AM   #108 (permalink)
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That does look a lot better with the new headers
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Old 01-28-2011, 10:25 AM   #109 (permalink)
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top tranny bolt is at 44", belly 24.5, crank at 35. Should be pretty stable.
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Old 01-29-2011, 02:47 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Looks good , keep up the work and the pics.
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Old 01-30-2011, 01:39 AM   #111 (permalink)
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Glad to see you making some more progress.
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:31 PM   #112 (permalink)
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got another day in the man cave, worked on tranny mounts. Motor is tilted back about 3.8 degrees, I think factory is 5.0, so should be fine.





a little under an inch clearance for the 205 to the bottom of the frame





the weight of the motor brought the back down some, frame is now just under 25"
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Last edited by plug ugly; 02-02-2011 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 02-13-2011, 11:40 PM   #113 (permalink)
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duplicate pics from anotherthread, just wanted to add these to the build thread

heres what I cam up with





I hadto drillout the clutch mc a 1/16th to fit the wilwood m/c

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Old 02-24-2011, 08:13 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Nice build!

Thanks for the reservoir. Glad I could help out with some build money.
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:19 PM   #115 (permalink)
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thanks Casey. It did help, as a matter of fact.
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Old 03-07-2011, 06:03 PM   #116 (permalink)
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Looking good... I see you have some rust, I think it was a factory option.
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:33 PM   #117 (permalink)
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This is gonna be a sick as rig. Frame plates are .
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:43 PM   #118 (permalink)
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how would you guys flange this cradle to make it removeable? Or would you make it removeable? I would like to be able to drop the oil pan without lifting the motor.

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Old 03-09-2011, 02:15 PM   #119 (permalink)
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awesome MSPaint skillz
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:26 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Like BeefCakeScout ,But I think I would use two bolts on each side.
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:46 PM   #121 (permalink)
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It if was a bit wider, maybe you could wiggle the pan out. Not sure where your links are going. The headers are going to be right there too. Plates on each side bolted in, or just one big bolt down the middle?

Or a combination of the two. Weld some flat bar to craddle so it overlaps the motor mount This would prevent it from twisting. The big bolt straight down will not let it spread. Trying to think of the forces on that cross member
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:48 PM   #122 (permalink)
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I'm too slow.. I like beef cake idea too, easy and pie It really boils down to access and it hard to see the other side.
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:23 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Like BeefCakeScout ,But I think I would use two bolts on each side.
what he said
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Old 03-09-2011, 04:17 PM   #124 (permalink)
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As shown, with or without the cradle, all the forces will try to rip the mount (horizontal square tube) from the vertical inner frame wall.

Perhaps forget the cradle and reinforce/triangulate the mounts instead?

Note, orange is drawn in 2d, but intended in 3d, say about 6" front to back?.

Orange "captures" the frame on three sides using a short plate on the outside, a tall plate on the inside, and a flat plate on top to tie the two together; plus 2 or 3 plate triangles (shown striped) as gussets. Essentially you're making the frame stronger and taller at the engine mount area.

Basically, you're almost double boxing the frame at the mount, while vertically entending and gusseting the inner wall.

Red is drawn 2d and intended as 2d: Plate triangles welded to the front and rear faces of the existing horizontal square tubing.

Its important to make the vertical orange plates extend above and below the existing frame rail. You might box the rail entirely and add a bottom orange plate, too. Make the side plates too short and they'll want to punch through the existing frame rail side. You want to instead press evenly along the whole surface of the frame rail side, especially the 90 degree bends at the top and bottom.


If you still want to stiffen from frame-rail to frame-rail, then add some sort of strut-tower-to-strut-tower bridge type stiffener (like the ricers use) over the top of the engine: Shown in blue with hex = bolt heads for cross-engine-piece removal.

I have seen this done with roll cage tubing using a tubing bender instead of square tubing and a band-saw Then make the removable joints flanged and sleeved (like header/collector flanges) for easy crossover tube removal.


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Old 03-09-2011, 04:29 PM   #125 (permalink)
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ILl gusset the the engine mounts for sure, and coil over hoops will go just forward on the enging mounts, which will be tied to the tube fenders and cross over the engine. Im just trying to figure a good way to mount he cradle.

The oil pump sticks pretty far down, its hard to get the pan off without a lot of clearance
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