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Old 07-13-2011, 02:19 PM   #201 (permalink)
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interesting. That came straight from Jess at HAD
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Old 07-13-2011, 03:09 PM   #202 (permalink)
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I have no doubt that it did. He built the drivelines on my truck and thus far I havent had any issues with the limited street time my Scout gets. Its not ideal for the street but so neither is big tires, soft springs, body roll, ect. ect. I know you know way more than I ever will but if your building a wheeler you might as well get all the travel you can get.
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:05 PM   #203 (permalink)
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a few more link pics.

I ended up lowering the tcase and raising the motor, soIm at 5 degrees lean back now. I get 5" of droop at the pinion. Im just gonna live with it.

Im also gonna ditch the radius arms and 3 link the front.





still need to cut the factory rear crossmember out, as the links hit. Was gonna wait till the coils were on to see how much up travel I will actually get though





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Old 08-12-2011, 10:44 PM   #204 (permalink)
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well, christmas came early. The wife took the boys to oregon for 10 days, and I actually got two 3 day spats of working in the garage without interuption......so 72 plus man hours later i have accomplished the following.

stripped the 60 of all the radius arm wedges,built a truss, cut a web (not pictured), tacked all brackets aside from the track bar and hydro assist, built a new upper link mount, etc, etc.



Upper link mount, I still need to weld the end and gring smooth, and then make an inner bracket to put it into 'double' shear.





upper link mount and gusset to the top of the housing


1.75 188 wall truss, slightly angled down for clearance


finger worth of clearance at ride height




new middle body mount


rear mounts.
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Old 08-12-2011, 10:46 PM   #205 (permalink)
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lowered the body down 1". The body is twisted up pretty bad, and the doors wont align, so that will require some work. The sill plates are at 33.5" now with a 24.5" belly height. Should be 6" up travel front. Oh, I also pulled the front stretch back 2" to a total of 4 front and 8 rear.











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Old 08-12-2011, 10:55 PM   #206 (permalink)
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can someone tell me,

is the driver/pass floor level with the ground, or is the A pillar at a slight upward angle?
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Old 08-13-2011, 07:43 AM   #207 (permalink)
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Looks good Damon, you made a ton of progress.
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Old 08-13-2011, 09:02 AM   #208 (permalink)
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Looking great!! Question???? What are the short tubes on the front lowers for?
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Old 08-13-2011, 01:12 PM   #209 (permalink)
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it was scrap tub I cut from an old cage. just mock up links
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Old 08-13-2011, 02:49 PM   #210 (permalink)
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your going to need a big white star on the door when all done
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Old 08-13-2011, 03:44 PM   #211 (permalink)
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whats the white star for?
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Old 08-13-2011, 06:00 PM   #212 (permalink)
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Looking good man. Take advantage of the shop pass. keep up the good work.
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Old 08-16-2011, 06:31 PM   #213 (permalink)
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Looks like flexing the front 3 link gives me what I need. Still lots of stuff on both sides, the lowers are hitting the old leaf mounts. Pinion angle appears pretty good through travel also, so its time to start burning things on for final.








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Old 08-16-2011, 06:35 PM   #214 (permalink)
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Looking good. Have you decided what your doing for the steering yet?
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:10 PM   #215 (permalink)
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not yet, its looking to be VERY tight for track bar to drag link, but 1/8th clearance is 1/8the clearance, sooo, this may lend itself to full hydro
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:13 PM   #216 (permalink)
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Looks a whole lot better than the radius arms. I think a box like a SII will work with your current set up. I personally don't like the long sector shafts on a SII box but if you are are using assist, it might be okay. Did you decide to burn the front mounts on yourself after all?
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:20 AM   #217 (permalink)
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no, I dont trust my welding for the cast and dont have a torch to heat it up anyway.

I was gonna look at late 70's ford bronco box too. Forward swing, outside frame mount
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:15 PM   #218 (permalink)
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soooooo, I am going to have a small rub area I need to cut out of the floor. Basically 2" up from the corner, and 4.5 down from the corner as seen here.




My thought was to cut a small (6x20) rectangular hole across the floor area there, bend tabs all the way around and fill it with clear lexan. Basicall it would be below the pedals, right at the front axle from the drivers seat. I have to make the cut, and I have to fill the hole, its just a question of WHAT i fill it with.

anyone have experiene with lexan? how would it do with the heat from the headers which will be near by?
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:37 PM   #219 (permalink)
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If I recall Lexan has a mounting point of 220 degrees. Its very strong and nearly shatter resistant depending on the thickness. Call or text me if you have any questions. My buddy developed lexan diff, and valve covers like 10 years ago.
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:57 PM   #220 (permalink)
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lexan valve covers?
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:04 PM   #221 (permalink)
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links built already? I'd be stretching that front another 3" Mark
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:18 PM   #222 (permalink)
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i had it 2" further forward, but that put me at near 115". i just didnt want it 'that' long.
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:03 PM   #223 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plug ugly View Post
lexan valve covers?
Yep he sold the patent to the company that owned hooker headers I believe. I had the first diff cover they ever made on my ford. I had it on there for 5 years until I sold it with no issues.
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Old 10-25-2011, 05:43 AM   #224 (permalink)
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Move that axle and be proud of 115" just say n
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Old 10-25-2011, 11:20 AM   #225 (permalink)
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I could TIG weld the links longer. Cut / sleeve / weld . I took that TIG pipe welding class at ARC. They had us welding 1/4 and 3/8 walled 4" pipe in all positions. But they had a nice beveling machine too
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