Alright fawkers:flipoff2: I've had my Scout since July 2006, it started off as a simple frame on restification to get it driving, then the project creep began, fixed a bunch of rust, swapped axles, power steering, disc brakes, etc. Nuthin' really Pirate worthy.
I've only driven it three times, once into the garage, once onto the trailer and once off the trailer. :laughing: Although, that's 3 more times than Brandon's driven his:flipoff2: looks like he's on the home stretch now though.
For me, it's rare to have the holy trinity (time, money, and motivation), but with a nice tax refund from Uncle Sugar the planets aligned and I stumbled across a wrecked 4x4 1996 F250 7.3L International PSD, ZF 5 speed :idea:
If the guys at Petersen's 4WOR can stuff a Cummins 6BT into a Jeep I can get a 7.3 PSD in my Scout with some slight firewall mods:grinpimp:
Can you guys help me?:flipoff2:
7.3/ZF 5 speed/203/205 10b/14FF yeah, yeah 10bolt sucks but it's what I got for now.
Awesome! Keep the pics coming! Can't wait to see this thing move, you HAVE to get a video of it posted when it does. Do you have a rough ETA on this or no?
warpony- Thanks for the motivation. It's not really *in* yet, I still have to mark the location for the motor mounts and build the new crossmember to tie the engine mounts together.
Chris- I've got Chevy 52's up front, so I think they are up to the task. I was going to take the overload spring off the bottom of the pack, but I might need to leave them in there :laughing: The front was a few inches too high anyway, so this *should* even it out. I have the a couple other spring packs and the springs from the F250 if I need to mix and match. The PSD is only a couple of hundred pounds more than a IH 345.
RIP Ted Ornas
I know it will be heavy up front, but I've seen several rigs with a big diesel up front and little to no weight in the back. If it does endos when I slam on the brakes, then I'll slap some tractor weights on the rear bumper :laughing:
I hope to get it driving in the next few months.
I'm moving in June/July, so I have to get it done by then, or at least mobile enough to get on the trailer.
Yup that's in the works. Even if I wanted to (which I don't) I can't use the stock pancake downpipe anyway. My transfercase will be in the way. I'm ordering some 3" bends from summit and make my own downpipe.
Well, this is what I started with last weekend, I thought I might be able to re-use the stock F250 crossmember, but it was just too damn big and hung down too far. I finally cut, welded, and ground it into submission.
After a few more test fits and some more cutting and grinding, I got the motor mounts welded in and chopped the crossmember up.
I still need to finish the crossmember, add a lip on the front edge, some gussets, and 2 more bolts on each side. The center has to be removeable for the PSD to fit between the frame rails, firewall, and for the oil pan to clear. Plus if I ever need to drop the oil pan it will be easy. I'm going to integrate a oil pan skid off the back of the crossmember also.
New Griffin radiator :grinpimp: 27.5" x 19" x 2 core (2x1.25") solid 3" thick radiator. It fits behind the grille nice It's a little shorter than the stock F250 rad, but it's thicker and weighs about 2x as much. Should cool it nicely.
I got some 3" U bends and started working on the new turbo down pipe to get it across the back of the engine and down the driverside. Should flow better than the stock smashed flat pancake down pipe.
I chopped out the last remaining bits of the stock crossmember, it looks like I will keep the PS box in the inside of the frame rail, but I will have to rework the mounting slightly. With the stock crossmember gone, I can rotate it down for a better angle to clear the PSD PS pump and a flatter pitman arm angle.
Nope, not an illusion, it's about 2" offset to the passenger side to clear the steering column, and Scout 80s the transmission tunnel is offset a few inches to the passenger side, too. It was offset to the passenger side in the F250 also, to clear the front diff.
Sub, I have a hell of a time keep a 7.3 cool in travelette and I have a wider frame for the radiator to ride in. I am impressed with your build/hide a ford:flipoff2:
Nice Travelette :smokin: 7.3L N/A What fan/rad combo are you running? Fan shroud?
I am going to try the stock mechanical fan w/ fan shroud first and see how it does. I also have a Taurus fan if I need it. It seems like most of the F250 rad was blocked by the front bumper
Hide a ford :laughing:
it says International on the valve covers:flipoff2:
I used a radiator that the book said was for a 91 f450, the rad sits on the frame so it is above the bumper. I am getting full air flow through the grill just a lot of motor to cool when towing. I have three electric fans mounted they are called Hurricane fans, the rad is wide and short like a cummings rad. With out cutting up the firewall I could not run a mechanical fan. The truck doe's great until I start pulling passes while towing a load.
Thanks for the pics, that looks way too big to fit in the Scout :laughing:
What's the dimensions on that one v/s the aluminum one that you had trouble with?
I have confidence that the Griffin radiator will keep it cool, the core is 1/2" thicker than the stock F250 rad, but it's about 10" shorter. If it's having trouble cooling, I'll try some water wetter and/or Taurus fan.
I won't be towing with it and the Scout it a wee bit smaller than the Travelette. Thanks for the heads up.
The radiator I started with was just a touch bigger than the stock rad in the Travelette. Considerably bigger than a Scout two radiator. It kept the 392 cool but melted down with the diesel. One thing you can watch is your pressure cap higher pressure higher your boiling point, but the diesel will loose power with higher temps Water wetter and the other snake oils have not worked at all for me AND I have tried them all. You will not have a condenser or any other BS in front of your rad that will be a big bonus, also not towing will be huge. I have a/c and a large p/s cooler in front of my radiator steering the 38s will over heat my p/s I feel and I did not want to tax the steering components. I am looking at a remote radiator some where under the bed between the frame rails with a louvered skid plate now but as I said only an issue when I have a 12,000lbs load. I think you will have far less problems as your uses will be different:grinpimp:
JetFxr, thanks for the info. You are still having problems with over heating even with the larger F-450 rad? I'm not planning on towing 12,000 lbs so I'll keep my fingers crossed.
water wetter didn't work for you guys... I hope I don't need it.
Now for some pics, I got a couple of 3" U-bends from summit and made my new turbo down pipe. It should flow better than the stock pancake and gets my exhaust over to the driverside. It will get wrapped to help keep underhood temps down.
The downpipe will be wrapped to keep the heat down and keep it from cooking anything it's not supposed to. There's plenty of clearence around the oil filter, it's a little closer to the clutch slave, but I think I have enough clearence to keep it cool. Not that I have a lot of choice, it's a pretty tight squeeze to fit it all in there.
The downpipe is 3" that I'll adapt to the stock 3.5" exhaust that I'll be chopping up and reusing.
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