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Old 04-01-2009, 07:56 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Very nice.,
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Old 04-01-2009, 08:10 AM   #52 (permalink)
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I used a radiator that the book said was for a 91 f450, the rad sits on the frame so it is above the bumper. I am getting full air flow through the grill just a lot of motor to cool when towing. I have three electric fans mounted they are called Hurricane fans, the rad is wide and short like a cummings rad. With out cutting up the firewall I could not run a mechanical fan. The truck doe's great until I start pulling passes while towing a load.
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Old 04-01-2009, 05:51 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Thanks for the pics, that looks way too big to fit in the Scout

What's the dimensions on that one v/s the aluminum one that you had trouble with?

I have confidence that the Griffin radiator will keep it cool, the core is 1/2" thicker than the stock F250 rad, but it's about 10" shorter. If it's having trouble cooling, I'll try some water wetter and/or Taurus fan.

I won't be towing with it and the Scout it a wee bit smaller than the Travelette. Thanks for the heads up.
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Originally Posted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower
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Old 04-01-2009, 06:22 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Couple more shots of the motor mounts. They wrap around the bottom of the frame.

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Originally Posted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower
History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

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Old 04-01-2009, 07:42 PM   #55 (permalink)
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nice welds looking forward to see it run
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Old 04-01-2009, 08:24 PM   #56 (permalink)
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The radiator I started with was just a touch bigger than the stock rad in the Travelette. Considerably bigger than a Scout two radiator. It kept the 392 cool but melted down with the diesel. One thing you can watch is your pressure cap higher pressure higher your boiling point, but the diesel will loose power with higher temps Water wetter and the other snake oils have not worked at all for me AND I have tried them all. You will not have a condenser or any other BS in front of your rad that will be a big bonus, also not towing will be huge. I have a/c and a large p/s cooler in front of my radiator steering the 38s will over heat my p/s I feel and I did not want to tax the steering components. I am looking at a remote radiator some where under the bed between the frame rails with a louvered skid plate now but as I said only an issue when I have a 12,000lbs load. I think you will have far less problems as your uses will be different
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:08 PM   #57 (permalink)
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FWIW the water wetter did nothing for me either. Just a FYI, since it was in the BMW
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Old 04-02-2009, 08:51 PM   #58 (permalink)
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JetFxr, thanks for the info. You are still having problems with over heating even with the larger F-450 rad? I'm not planning on towing 12,000 lbs so I'll keep my fingers crossed.

water wetter didn't work for you guys... I hope I don't need it.

Now for some pics, I got a couple of 3" U-bends from summit and made my new turbo down pipe. It should flow better than the stock pancake and gets my exhaust over to the driverside. It will get wrapped to help keep underhood temps down.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower
History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

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Old 04-05-2009, 01:49 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Is the York for OBA or A/C, or just left over?
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Old 04-05-2009, 12:18 PM   #60 (permalink)
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York OBA? That's a pic of JetFxr's engine, not mine.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower
History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

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Old 04-05-2009, 05:57 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Coming along nice....cant wait to see more! Awesome work so far...what size exhaust are you going to run?
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Old 04-05-2009, 06:12 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Guido, are you going to shield that slave cylinder and maybe relocate the oil filter, from the heat?
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Old 04-05-2009, 06:37 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Guido, are you going to shield that slave cylinder and maybe relocate the oil filter, from the heat?
The downpipe will be wrapped to keep the heat down and keep it from cooking anything it's not supposed to. There's plenty of clearence around the oil filter, it's a little closer to the clutch slave, but I think I have enough clearence to keep it cool. Not that I have a lot of choice, it's a pretty tight squeeze to fit it all in there.

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Coming along nice....cant wait to see more! Awesome work so far...what size exhaust are you going to run?
The downpipe is 3" that I'll adapt to the stock 3.5" exhaust that I'll be chopping up and reusing.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower
History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

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Old 04-16-2009, 10:16 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Did a little welding last week, and by a little, I mean about 3,000 spot welds.

I got the patch panels welded in to fill in the sections of firewall I cut out.

It doesn't look like I cleaned the paint off before I welded...but I did.

Driver's side tacked in:
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Passenger side tacked in:

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AC baby

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1965 Scout 80 7.3PSD/ZF/203/205 D60F/14BFF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower
History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

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Last edited by guidolyons; 04-16-2009 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:23 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Gave it a shot of primer and some IH red.

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I also got a set of Delta H4 Halogen conversion headlights with the built in auxillary "city light" that I'll swap for an amber bulb and wire in as a second turn signal. $78 from Amazon.com

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Nice rubber boots on the backside.
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This is the low wattage auxillary "city light"
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These H4 bulbs will fit a stock sealed beam style 3 blade plug, but it's recommended to use high temp socket rated for halogen bulbs so they don't melt. I picked up a pair of Halogen H4 pigtails at Advance auto for $10.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower
History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

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Last edited by guidolyons; 04-16-2009 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:14 AM   #66 (permalink)
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I also finished adding gussets and welded 3/8" round stock to smooth out and strengthen the front edge of the crossmember. Of course no welding project is complete with out the a shot of the professional gloss black spray paint job.

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I also swapped in a Ford 31 spline input into the Chevy NP203 and did a test fit. Like it was made for it. I still need to order the doubler kit and before I decide on final clocking of the 203.

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I'm looking at Jed's Machine or the NWF doubler. Jed's is cheaper, all steel (beefy) and I can set it how I want and weld it myself, but once it's welded, it's permanent. I like the adjustability and clocking on the NWF doubler, but it's aluminum and a little more expensive. I've read a few threads about issues with NWF threads stripping out?

Although OffRoadDesign's doubler is the original daddy, it's not an option for me becasue of the lack of adjustability/clocking options.

Chris Fresh has a Jed's Doubler (I think) and Brandon has NWF. What do you guys think? Anybody else have recommendations?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower
History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

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Old 04-16-2009, 05:08 PM   #67 (permalink)
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I also finished adding gussets and welded 3/8" round stock to smooth out and strengthen the front edge of the crossmember. Of course no welding project is complete with out the a shot of the professional gloss black spray paint job.

Attachment 436645

I also swapped in a Ford 31 spline input into the Chevy NP203 and did a test fit. Like it was made for it. I still need to order the doubler kit and before I decide on final clocking of the 203.

Attachment 436646

Attachment 436647

Attachment 436648

I'm looking at Jed's Machine or the NWF doubler. Jed's is cheaper, all steel (beefy) and I can set it how I want and weld it myself, but once it's welded, it's permanent. I like the adjustability and clocking on the NWF doubler, but it's aluminum and a little more expensive. I've read a few threads about issues with NWF threads stripping out?

Although OffRoadDesign's doubler is the original daddy, it's not an option for me becasue of the lack of adjustability/clocking options.

Chris Fresh has a Jed's Doubler (I think) and Brandon has NWF. What do you guys think? Anybody else have recommendations?
Looks real good Guido. Keep up the good work for us that are not. I think the Jeds will clock three positions after its welded. If I remember that was one I was looking at. ORD is the one for me, next thing to get now that taxes are done.
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:53 PM   #68 (permalink)
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yeah mine is from jeds,really nice guy to deal with.told him i wanted it clocked up and he sent it to me welded up with all the fixins.it is beefy.tell him how much you wanna clock it and it will come ready to install.he was also the best price to,550 shipped if i remember correctly.he also throws in all the gasgets and the brass fitting for vent.that price was two years ago,so it might have changed,if i needed another one,jeds would get my business again for sure.
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:19 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Yeah, mine is from Jeds. He's a really nice guy to deal with. I told him how I wanted it clocked up and he sent it to me welded up with all the fixins'. It is beefy. Tell him how much you it clocked, and it will come ready to install. He was also the best price too, $550 shipped if i remember correctly. He also throws in all the gaskets and the brass fitting for the vent. That price was two years ago, so it might have changed. If i need another one, Jeds would get my business again for sure.
Corrected because that made my eyes hurt





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Old 04-16-2009, 07:08 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info Chris. Good to know.

I need to be able to clock it myself, since I don't know how flat I'll be able to get the 205and still clear the frame, oil pan, and have a decent front driveshaft angle.
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Old 04-17-2009, 04:27 AM   #71 (permalink)
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don't know if you can get it unwelded,but then again i never asked.also that price i posted might be off because i also had the input shaft going on at the same time.can't remember if the 550 included the shaft
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Old 04-19-2009, 08:45 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Made some significant progress this weekend.

Last week I ordered Hushmat (summit brand) and DEI exhaust wrap to help take care of the vibration, turbo and exhaust heat.

Got the firewall covered:
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Then bolted in the stock heatshield for some extra heat protection.
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DEI Titanium wrap is good for 1800* direct contact/2500* indirect. Regular header wrap is only rated for 1200*-1500*

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Wrapped up:

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Installed:

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Originally Posted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower
History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

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Old 04-19-2009, 08:49 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Got the engine and transmission bolted in for good this time. No more engine hoist.
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Originally Posted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower
History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

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Old 04-19-2009, 09:13 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Old 04-20-2009, 12:12 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Freakin' sweet job.
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