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Guido's 1965 Scout 80

162K views 303 replies 69 participants last post by  bk2life 
#1 · (Edited)
Guido's 1965 Scout 80 + 7.3L PSD

Alright fawkers:flipoff2: I've had my Scout since July 2006, it started off as a simple frame on restification to get it driving, then the project creep began, fixed a bunch of rust, swapped axles, power steering, disc brakes, etc. Nuthin' really Pirate worthy.

I've only driven it three times, once into the garage, once onto the trailer and once off the trailer. :laughing: Although, that's 3 more times than Brandon's driven his:flipoff2: looks like he's on the home stretch now though.

For me, it's rare to have the holy trinity (time, money, and motivation), but with a nice tax refund from Uncle Sugar the planets aligned and I stumbled across a wrecked 4x4 1996 F250 7.3L International PSD, ZF 5 speed :idea:

If the guys at Petersen's 4WOR can stuff a Cummins 6BT into a Jeep I can get a 7.3 PSD in my Scout with some slight firewall mods:grinpimp:


Can you guys help me?:flipoff2:


7.3/ZF 5 speed/203/205 10b/14FF yeah, yeah 10bolt sucks but it's what I got for now.

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#64 · (Edited)
Did a little welding last week, and by a little, I mean about 3,000 spot welds.:laughing:

I got the patch panels welded in to fill in the sections of firewall I cut out.

It doesn't look like I cleaned the paint off before I welded...but I did. :flipoff2:

Driver's side tacked in:


Passenger side tacked in:

Gas Machine


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AC baby :cool:

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#65 · (Edited)
Gave it a shot of primer and some IH red.

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I also got a set of Delta H4 Halogen conversion headlights with the built in auxillary "city light" that I'll swap for an amber bulb and wire in as a second turn signal. $78 from Amazon.com

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Nice rubber boots on the backside.
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This is the low wattage auxillary "city light"
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These H4 bulbs will fit a stock sealed beam style 3 blade plug, but it's recommended to use high temp socket rated for halogen bulbs so they don't melt. I picked up a pair of Halogen H4 pigtails at Advance auto for $10.

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#66 ·
I also finished adding gussets and welded 3/8" round stock to smooth out and strengthen the front edge of the crossmember. Of course no welding project is complete with out the a shot of the professional gloss black spray paint job.

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I also swapped in a Ford 31 spline input into the Chevy NP203 and did a test fit. Like it was made for it. I still need to order the doubler kit and before I decide on final clocking of the 203.

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I'm looking at Jed's Machine or the NWF doubler. Jed's is cheaper, all steel (beefy) and I can set it how I want and weld it myself, but once it's welded, it's permanent. I like the adjustability and clocking on the NWF doubler, but it's aluminum and a little more expensive. I've read a few threads about issues with NWF threads stripping out?:confused:

Although OffRoadDesign's doubler is the original daddy, it's not an option for me becasue of the lack of adjustability/clocking options.

Chris Fresh has a Jed's Doubler (I think) and Brandon has NWF. What do you guys think? Anybody else have recommendations?
 
#67 ·
I also finished adding gussets and welded 3/8" round stock to smooth out and strengthen the front edge of the crossmember. Of course no welding project is complete with out the a shot of the professional gloss black spray paint job.

View attachment 436645

I also swapped in a Ford 31 spline input into the Chevy NP203 and did a test fit. Like it was made for it. I still need to order the doubler kit and before I decide on final clocking of the 203.

View attachment 436646

View attachment 436647

View attachment 436648

I'm looking at Jed's Machine or the NWF doubler. Jed's is cheaper, all steel (beefy) and I can set it how I want and weld it myself, but once it's welded, it's permanent. I like the adjustability and clocking on the NWF doubler, but it's aluminum and a little more expensive. I've read a few threads about issues with NWF threads stripping out?:confused:

Although OffRoadDesign's doubler is the original daddy, it's not an option for me becasue of the lack of adjustability/clocking options.

Chris Fresh has a Jed's Doubler (I think) and Brandon has NWF. What do you guys think? Anybody else have recommendations?
Looks real good Guido. Keep up the good work for us that are not. I think the Jeds will clock three positions after its welded. If I remember that was one I was looking at. ORD is the one for me, next thing to get now that taxes are done.
 
#68 ·
yeah mine is from jeds,really nice guy to deal with.told him i wanted it clocked up and he sent it to me welded up with all the fixins.it is beefy.tell him how much you wanna clock it and it will come ready to install.he was also the best price to,550 shipped if i remember correctly.he also throws in all the gasgets and the brass fitting for vent.that price was two years ago,so it might have changed,if i needed another one,jeds would get my business again for sure.
 
#69 ·
Yeah, mine is from Jeds. He's a really nice guy to deal with. I told him how I wanted it clocked up and he sent it to me welded up with all the fixins'. It is beefy. Tell him how much you it clocked, and it will come ready to install. He was also the best price too, $550 shipped if i remember correctly. He also throws in all the gaskets and the brass fitting for the vent. That price was two years ago, so it might have changed. If i need another one, Jeds would get my business again for sure.
Corrected because that made my eyes hurt :(





:flipoff2:
 
#70 ·
Thanks for the info Chris. Good to know.

I need to be able to clock it myself, since I don't know how flat I'll be able to get the 205and still clear the frame, oil pan, and have a decent front driveshaft angle.
 
#71 ·
don't know if you can get it unwelded,but then again i never asked.also that price i posted might be off because i also had the input shaft going on at the same time.can't remember if the 550 included the shaft
 
#72 ·
Made some significant progress this weekend.

Last week I ordered Hushmat (summit brand) and DEI exhaust wrap to help take care of the vibration, turbo and exhaust heat.

Got the firewall covered:
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Then bolted in the stock heatshield for some extra heat protection.
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DEI Titanium wrap is good for 1800* direct contact/2500* indirect. Regular header wrap is only rated for 1200*-1500*

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Wrapped up:

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Installed:

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#73 ·
:mr-t:
Got the engine and transmission bolted in for good this time. No more engine hoist.
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#77 ·
Very nice job with plenty of pictures, wanna come over to my place when you're done and swap a 7.3 into my ScoutII? :D
 
#78 · (Edited)
Sure! It will cost you eleventy billion dollars, you still in? :flipoff2:

Not much progress that's photo worthy. I cut the headlight buckets to fit the new H4 headlights and started making room for the dual battery trays. Unless I can find a smaller battery that still has enough CCA, the passenger side will have to be signifigantly modified so the radiator will fit.
 
#79 ·
With the 7.3L intruding through the firewall, that didn't leave much room for a throttle pedal.



The stock pedals are bent offset about 3" to the passenger side.

No problemo.

I removed the pedals and heat the bends with my torch, clamped them in the vise and beat them into submission. Now they are straight and I have plenty of room for the throttle pedal.


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I still have to fab a bracket for the throttle pedal, I'm just holding it in the pic.

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Fabbed up some brackets for the dual batteries and did a test fit with the grille, radiator, and AC condenser. I still need to fab mounting brackets and fan shroud for the radiator. Stock upper hose fits, but I'll need to rework the lower to clear the fan, steering linkage, and frame.

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#85 ·
Thanks guys, as long as I continue to make progress like I have been, I hope to get it driveable by the end of June. I still have a bunch of wiring to do (I've got the entire wiring harness from the F250), mount and plumb the fuel tank, get/mount shocks, and I need to order my doubler and get it mounted so I can get driveshafts sorted out.

Yesterday, I got a my new steering ujoint to replace the rag joint at the steering box and stabbed the steering column back in for mock up. It just clears the driverside exhaust manifold and steering pump, but I will have to re-work two of the mounting bolts on the PS box :mad: I did such a nice job when I originally did the powersteering swap, that it will be a bitch to cut out and sleeve the new holes. The good thing is since the stock crossmember is gone I was able to rotate the box down a bit for a better pitman arm angle.
 
#86 ·
A little more progress. When I originally installed the power steering box, I had to mount it to clear the stock crossmember and it was angled a little steeper than I wanted. With the stock crossmember out of the way, I could tilt it down a bit to get a better pitman arm angle and steering shaft angle. Unfortunately I did just an awesome job sleeving the frame and building the mount that it was a PITA to move 2 of the bolt holes 3/4".:mad1:

I had just enough room for the steering shaft to clear the fender and exhaust manifold, I added an extra mount to help keep the shaft lined up, it's an exhaust clamp and U bolt:

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Steering shaft sneaks out just under the PS pump:
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Built a new steering column mount that reused the original firewall mount and bolts onto the pedal assembly:

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The old rag joint steering wasn't cutting it, got a U-joint from Speedway motors.

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#90 ·
Yup, allen head without the lock nut on it. It will probably come in and out a few more times before it's in for good.

Coming up next...finish mounting the radiator, wiring harness, mounting the fuel tank, plumbing, and routing the exhaust.
 
#91 · (Edited)
I finished up mounting the radiator and AC condenser :beer:
After scratching my head a bit on how to mount the radiator and clear the PS box, I ended up notching the frame and sinking the radiator down about 3". This allowed me to tie into a new crossmember (1/4" angle) that passes under the PS box. Originally, I measured for fitting the radiator above the frame which limited the height to 19". If the 27.5" x 19" x 3" radiator has trouble keeping things cool, I now have room for a 27.5" x 22" x 3" rad if I need it. :cool:

I reused some the F250 radiator brackets, and a few other odds and ends I had laying around. I used 3/16 high density foam automotive weather stripping to cushion the radiator. I cut up 2 sets of barrel hinges for my clamping tabs, and to mount the AC condenser.

Lower crossmember/ radiator mount:

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AC condenser mounted:
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