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Guido's 1965 Scout 80

162K views 303 replies 69 participants last post by  bk2life 
#1 · (Edited)
Guido's 1965 Scout 80 + 7.3L PSD

Alright fawkers:flipoff2: I've had my Scout since July 2006, it started off as a simple frame on restification to get it driving, then the project creep began, fixed a bunch of rust, swapped axles, power steering, disc brakes, etc. Nuthin' really Pirate worthy.

I've only driven it three times, once into the garage, once onto the trailer and once off the trailer. :laughing: Although, that's 3 more times than Brandon's driven his:flipoff2: looks like he's on the home stretch now though.

For me, it's rare to have the holy trinity (time, money, and motivation), but with a nice tax refund from Uncle Sugar the planets aligned and I stumbled across a wrecked 4x4 1996 F250 7.3L International PSD, ZF 5 speed :idea:

If the guys at Petersen's 4WOR can stuff a Cummins 6BT into a Jeep I can get a 7.3 PSD in my Scout with some slight firewall mods:grinpimp:


Can you guys help me?:flipoff2:


7.3/ZF 5 speed/203/205 10b/14FF yeah, yeah 10bolt sucks but it's what I got for now.

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#92 ·
A few more of the radiator, everything fits under the hood.

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Bling-Bling :grinpimp:Jed's Machine 203-205 doubler
38 lbs of beautifully machined steel with a billet 8620 32 spline input shaft They can respline your old shaft, or for about $60 more go for the upgraded shaft. Mine was ~$625 shipped. I ordered mine unwelded since I don't know how much I can clock the 205 yet.

Super quick service I ordered on Friday and got it on Wednesday (with a Memorial Day holiday)
http://www.jedsmachining.com/

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#93 ·
A few more pics of the 7.3L shoved in there. :beer: Up next... fuel and wiring :grinpimp:

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#95 ·
Yup, there's a spot for overflow bottle between the battery and blower motor on the passenger side fender that will be the highest point in the system.
 
#96 ·
UPDATE: As of 20090629 at 0205 hours !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!! Wooo Hoooo
It actually started quite easily, just a few seconds of cranking and she roared to life I was worried that since the fuel lines had been disconnected for so long that it would take a while to start.

I still have a bunch of work to finish though.

I've been busy the last few weeks, I got the Ford fuel tank mounted and the fuel lines plumbed, finished installing the 203-205 doubler, made a rear driveshaft, routed the exhaust, finished the hooking up the engine harness wiring, and a bunch of other odds and ends.
 
#98 · (Edited)
#101 · (Edited)
#102 ·
Then I started on the wiring:
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It wasn't too bad, I had labeled everything well when I took it out of the F250 and most of the connections would only attach one way.

The PCM and injector control module fit perfectly right in a small ammo can

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Sealed around the connections with some RTV and mounted it to the fender along with the fuse/relay box.

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#103 ·
The GM 205 I had has the long slipjoint output, so I swapped the shorter 32 spline Ford output with yoke.

Ford 205 on the left and GM 205 on the right:
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While, I had the output shaft out, did the twin-stick mod to the shift rail only took about 30 min.

Remove the detent ball and knock out the freeze plug and roll pin:

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#107 ·
The GM 205 I had has the long slipjoint output, so I swapped the shorter 32 spline Ford output with yoke.

Ford 205 on the left and GM 205 on the right:
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While, I had the output shaft out, did the twin-stick mod to the shift rail only took about 30 min.

Remove the detent ball and knock out the freeze plug and roll pin:

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I hope you swapped front shafts while you were in the 205.
 
#104 ·
It's easy to see on the stock shift rail where the detent balls ride and need to be ground down:
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Marked it with a marker and took a few passes with a flap wheel on the grinder:



Reinstalled the shift rail and then I bolted up the 205 to the 203 and adpater plate so I could mock up and figure out how far I could clock the 205. It's about 19.5" long.
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I was hoping to get the 205 rotated up far enough with out hitting the frame... oops

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A little notching was required:

 
#105 · (Edited)
I boxed the frame reinforce it:
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It looks like it hangs down a lot, but it's only about 3" below the frame rail.

203 205 doubler from the rear, before I installed the fuel tank:
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#109 ·
With the move and all, work on the Scout has taken a back seat to getting boxes unpacked and getting the garage organized. After working in the garage-mahal, it will be hard to go back to just a "2" car garage. I only have a few more weeks left before my vacation leave days are up and I have to go to Ft Benning and I will be Scoutless :(

So I am trying to get as much done as I can before I leave.

I got some new shoes for the Scout BFG KM2 37x12.50-17 :grinpimp: Should work nicely with the 4.10 gears and the PSD.

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#111 ·
Got the tires mounted and balanced (airsoft BBs) just in time to put it on jack stands and sit until I get home.

Much mo'better than the tiny worn out swampers I had for rollers :grinpimp:might need a little trimming for full flex:evil:

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#114 ·
Brandon, unfortunatly I didn't take very many pics of the rear bumper build. The bottom pic a few post up from this one has one of the better pics of it. I posted a pic in your thread. I went back and looked through my pics and found another:

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#116 ·
Yeah, Ballistic H2 aluminum beadlocks, I was going to run H1's but I wanted to be have the option to swap wheels/and or tires with my Dodge, so I started looking for some 17" rims, found them for sale on PBB.


Yeah, stock ford 19 gallon rear tank. Worked like it was meant to fit there. It's turned 90* from stock orientation, so the fuel lines are on the driver's side and the fuel filler faces to the rear. I still have my saddle tanks and I *think* I will be able to use the stock fuel tank selctor valve to feed the main center tank. 19 gallons should be plenty, +20 gallons in the saddle tanks will more than sufficent:grinpimp:

The ford tank is ~35"x27"x8" if it was any deeper and there will be clearence issues with rear driveshaft and/or rear axle, depending on transfercase/drivetrain combo.
 
#118 ·
That's where I originally planned to put it, but without more suspension lift or body lift, there's not much room directly above the rear axle. There is a small amount of room behind the axle, so if you had to, you could probably cram a small tank back there.
 
#120 · (Edited)
I have a small update. I was home for 2 weeks of midtour leave in July. I spent 5 days in Vegas, and just vegged out for a few days, but I did manage to get in a little bit of work one day. While I've been deployed I have been ordering parts (shocks, XRC-10 winch, ARB for the 14BFF, Wild Horse EB flares and some other odds and ends, gauges, etc) so I'll have a bunch to do when I get home. I have been brainstorming on what I wanted to do to fix my rockers. I had some rust and I wanted to build some rocker protection. I like Scout254's rockers and decided to do a mini-boatside similar to his. I get to cut out some rust and will gain 2-3" under the rocker panels.

Here's a googlesketch of my idea:




With some blue painters tape I marked off a straight line and chopped off the bottom of the rockers ~5-6".
Here's a piece of 2x2x.188 angle that will form the base and inner structure of the boatside. The inner rocker will be trimmed flush with the floor and the bottom of the boatside will have a piece of ~1x3 tube to account for the step between the floor and the bottom of the gastank. It will all get skinned with some 3/16" strap to give a smooth surface and protect from wheelwell to wheellwell.







When I get home for good, I'll be getting transferred so I'll have a super wrench-a-thon. I have to get the Scout road worthy and registered ASAP so I can get it on the boat to Hawaii.
 
#122 ·
Yes, yes it is. :cool:

Nothing like a PCS move to put the pressure on :p I work better under pressure. I should be able to get some good wrench time in and the garage won't be 120*

So...slacker, made any progress on the Warpony? :flipoff2:
 
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