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Guido's 1965 Scout 80

162K views 303 replies 69 participants last post by  bk2life 
#1 · (Edited)
Guido's 1965 Scout 80 + 7.3L PSD

Alright fawkers:flipoff2: I've had my Scout since July 2006, it started off as a simple frame on restification to get it driving, then the project creep began, fixed a bunch of rust, swapped axles, power steering, disc brakes, etc. Nuthin' really Pirate worthy.

I've only driven it three times, once into the garage, once onto the trailer and once off the trailer. :laughing: Although, that's 3 more times than Brandon's driven his:flipoff2: looks like he's on the home stretch now though.

For me, it's rare to have the holy trinity (time, money, and motivation), but with a nice tax refund from Uncle Sugar the planets aligned and I stumbled across a wrecked 4x4 1996 F250 7.3L International PSD, ZF 5 speed :idea:

If the guys at Petersen's 4WOR can stuff a Cummins 6BT into a Jeep I can get a 7.3 PSD in my Scout with some slight firewall mods:grinpimp:


Can you guys help me?:flipoff2:


7.3/ZF 5 speed/203/205 10b/14FF yeah, yeah 10bolt sucks but it's what I got for now.

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#213 · (Edited)
OK so I am a little behind on updates.

This is an update from September 2013 ago that I forgot to post:

My master cylinder started leaking out the bore. After a thorough search of local parts stores and even tried Rock Auto, it seem that the '78 Grand Marquis master cylinder I was using was discontinued. I ordered one from Rock Auto but when it arrived, it did not match the picture on line (two large reservoirs, disc/disc) had one large and one small reservoir (disc/drum) After numerous emails to Rock Auto and Dorman tech support I sent it back. Both said, "Oh yes it's the correct part even though it doesn't match the picture on the website" So I paid shipping both ways for the wrong part. I doubt I will ever order from Rock Auto again.

I've been pretty happy with the Grand Marquis MC, it bolted right in the stock location, 1.125" bore. Ports on the passenger side made plumbing easy.

My next choice was master cylinder for a 1970 Corvette 4 wheel disc brakes. Two large reservoirs, 1.125" (power brake) or 1" bore for manual brakes.

I opted for the 1" bore since I don't have a booster. That should give me ~25% more pressure with a slight increase in pedal travel and decrease in pedal effort. The ports are on the driver's side, so I had make 2 new lines to replumb.

I read on line that the rear port goes to the front brakes and the front port goes to the rear. So that's how I re-plumbed. WRONG!

The ports are different sizes, 1/2 up front and 9/16 on the rear port. When I bench bled the MC, I noticed the front reservoir is slightly larger and is the first to activate/move fluid. I had to rebend and reflare to swap lines. Front port goes to the front and rear port goes to the rear.

That green coated brake line from Oreilly is the DEVIL! It took forever to get a good flare. I've flared a bunch of brake lines, and this stuff kicked my ass.

I tried my new Phoenix reverse bleeder with mixed results. It seemed to work OK on the rear calipers, but the front calipers it just leaked out the bleeder threads, so I re-bled them old school with my wife pushing the pedal a some tubing and a jar. I got it all installed and bled and it feels pretty good. I like the new pedal feel, not quite as firm, I may still have an air bubble. After the first pump, the pedal firms up nicely, so I think I still have an air bubble. Hopefully I can bleed again and get a nice firm pedal.

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There are a few other differences also, the mounting holes are a bit wider on the Vetter MC (Grand MArquis is~ 3.25" Vette is 3.4") so I had to pop off one of the welded nuts and enlarge the hole a bit. Also I had to lengthen the push rod ~3/16".


There are a few other differences also, the mounting holes are a bit wider on the Vetter MC (Grand MArquis is~ 3.25" Vette is 3.4") so I had to pop off one of the welded nuts and enlarge the hole a bit. Also I had to lengthen the push rod ~3/16".


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#214 · (Edited)
OK I'm a bit behind, so here's a few updates:

A few cosmetic updates, added an aluminum diamond tread door insert, I was going to originally do the whole door panel in diamond tread, but decided to stick with a few accent pieces.
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One of my tailgate cables broke...so I made some new ones with some parts from the local boat shop. 3/16" stainless steel cable, stainless swivel and a snap link, added some heatshrink to protect the paint.


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#215 · (Edited)
So...while I was working on my doors for the insert, I noticed that two of my door hinges were cracked (the barrel where the pin goes through) A while back I drove out the stock pins and replaced with stainless bolts, I'm not sure if that's why they cracked, or if they would have cracked anyway.

I was going to make my own hinges, but after I came home with $100 worth of pins, bushings, and steel, decided I would be time and money ahead to order a set of replacement lift off hinges from Jayson at Canyon Offroad. While the price may seem a bit high...it's cheaper than a stock set, saved me a bunch of time, and these hinges are super nice, big, beefy, and bolted right on.

First I had to get rid of the stock hinges, of course the top set came right out, but the bottom ones are of course stuck fast since the bolts get all the mud, salt, and road grime. After I drilled the heads out, dropped an nut down on the stub gave them a shot of the MIG welder. Spray your favorite penetrating oil on and they will come right out. Works like a champ on these old rusted bolts.

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New hinges from Jayson at Canyon Offroad:

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The fit on these hinges is soooo nice. I sprayed them with my favorite Rustoleum Hammered black spray paint. The tolerance on the pins is so close that I had to scrape the paint off the pins to get the hinges to fit back together and hang the door properly. :grinpimp:

Here they are installed:

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#216 ·
I retired from the Army and moved back to Texas.

After a month on the boat and transport truck the Scout is back home in Texas.





Unfortunately, it fired right up to drive off the truck, then promptly died :mad3::mad3: It was very cold and wet that day, and after a month in transit, I figured my 5 year old batteries were not up for the task (even after an overnight charge and a jump pack, still would not fire up...just turn over).

I don't have any of my tools yet, just a small 3/8" drive ratchet set, a Crescent wrench, and a screw driver. So... not too much I can do. I got some new batteries. Which requires removing the front valence & grill shell...not too bad if you only have to do it every 5 years.





Still no good. :mad3: I added some diesel, changed out the CPS , charged the batteries again...did some more trouble shooting...got a new scanner (Auto Enginuity very cool) and scoured the dieselstop forum for ideas. Thanks to my wife's detective work, we finally tracked it down to a blown fuse that powers the fuel filter heater and the ECU... vroom! :bounce2::bounce:


Parked next to the wife's new Jeep.



Finally added some bling
 
#221 ·
#222 ·
SHit!!!!!

between you and the woods runner scout build in gen 4x4, i have to build another scout. i love yours it looks great. although i would have left it old rusty white (just like my first one) it look bitchin as is. good job and thanks you for your service!
 
#224 · (Edited)
MontanaTrout- You've got some pretty good builds, too love the FODGE.

MotoDave- I've got the Currie Anti-Rock swaybars front and rear. I was going to try find some kind of junkyard swap... but the Anti-rock sway bars saved me so much time and effort. Perfect width for the Scout frame. I did cut/bend/weld the arms about 15* so the end of the arms would clear the frame. Not sure why I didn't post any pics of the front swaybar. Here's the only pic I have right now that shows top part of the sway bar.

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I needed them bad, I had some wicked scary body sway.
 
#225 ·
MontanaTrout- You've got some pretty good builds, too love the FODGE.

MotoDave- I've got the Currie Anti-Rock swaybars front and rear. I was going to try find some kind of junkyard swap... but the Anti-rock sway bars saved me so much time and effort. Perfect width for the Scout frame. I did cut/bend/weld the arms about 15* so the end of the arms would clear the frame. Not sure why I didn't post any pics of the front swaybar. Here's the only pic I have right now that shows top part of the sway bar.

I needed them bad, I had some wicked scary body sway.
Thanks for the info. I'll be curious how mine drives with the 3 link front. It will be daily driven, so I want good street manners as well as capable off road.
 
#228 · (Edited)
Thanks

Just read the whole thread. Can't think of a better way to waste a few hours.

Did you every hook up the saddle tanks?

Did the OEM Ford cluster work?

Nice job and thanks for your service to our country.
I still have the saddle tanks, but have not hooked either of them up, yet. I do plan on using one of them plumbed into the stock Ford fuel transfer switch.

I pulled the whole wiring harness from the Ford and used the Ford cluster, 1. because it was faster/easier, 2. I wasn't sure how much/what the PSD needed to run. All the gauges work, except the speedometer does not work properly, it shows less than 5 MPH and the odometer clicks a tenth per mile since my sending unit is in the transfercase not the rear axle. I use a GPS, so it hasn't been a big deal.

I have since discovered that it runs just fine without the Ford cluster and I have a set of Autometer gauges (including a programmable speedo) that I am going to swap in.
 
#227 ·
Just read the whole thread. Can't think of a better way to waste a few hours.

Did you every hook up the saddle tanks?

Did the OEM Ford cluster work?

Nice job and thanks for your service to our country.
 
#229 · (Edited)
Update time. Made some new driveshafts, chopped up the front crossmember, and went 'wheeling :grinpimp:

I've had all the bits and pieces to make my front driveshaft, but had been putting if off for awhile. I thought I was going to need a two piece front driveshaft, but after mocking up the pillow block and front driveshaft, the angles were too steep, and I found I actually had room for a one piece driveshaft. Since I didn't need a two piece front driveshaft, I had enough 1350 parts left over to make a new rear driveshaft, too. :grinpimp:

It turns out my stock Scout 80 rear driveshaft was almost perfect length for my new front shaft. It barely bolted in at ride height and actually needed about 5 more inches. It doesn't have enough slip for full droop (I have apiece of cable as a limit strap), but it works for now until I can figure a long travel slip.

DIY driveshaft building 101. Measure at full droop, ride height, and full stuff/compression. It's much easier to shorten an existing 'shaft, than to lengthen, but you can DIY a longer shaft, too.

Make sure you have enough slip for full travel, if not, err on the side of caution at full stuff and limit extension if you need to. I'd rather have a shaft be too short than too long. A shaft that is too long can the break transmission/transfercase, too short no harm done.

Using a thin cut off wheel, cut through the weld just enough the separate the yoke from the driveshaft. I like to rotate it as I cut (roll it along the edge of a table, etc) it seems to get a smoother, more even cut. Once the groove is deep enough, give it a few whacks with a dead blow hammer (or a hammer with a block of wood) if it doesn't separate, make a relief cut perpendicular to the shaft and it should pop loose.

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I got a little carried away and cut a bit too deep, but no worries.

Here's the yoke. It's got a nice shoulder on it that fits tight in the tube.

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Double check your measurements and cut the driveshaft to length (account for the length of the yoke) Make the cut as square as you can, as it will make it easier to line everything up. A stainless steel hose clamp makes a good guide if you don't have a bandsaw/chopsaw/sawzall that cuts square. Clean it up with a flapwheel. Tap the yoke in the end of the shaft.

Use a sturdy straight edge (large angle or some square tube works well) to make sure the yokes are "in phase" otherwise you will get some wicked vibrations. This also helps get the driveshaft fairly straight. Rear shaft is~ 19" and front is ~42".

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Using the Mark I hairy eyeball and a few taps of the deadblow hammer gets the shaft pretty straight. A few light tack welds 90* apart.

Install in the truck and give it a spin to make sure it spins true. A dial indicator will really help true it up. Look for the most out of round spot, then whack it with a hammer until it's as straight as you can get it. Then pull it out an final weld. I'll lay a few heavy tacks (90* apart) then weld about an inch at a time on opposite sides so the weld doesn't pull the yoke out of alignment.
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For the front shaft, I didn't have a piece of tube long enough, so I just cut and sleeved using a short piece of extra tube, relief cut and inserted into the ID to help align. It's not the best way, but worked fine for a front shaft. I got the front shaft down to .030" run out, the rear even better at .010"
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#230 · (Edited)
My rear driveshaft is now 1350 u-joints on both ends (the previous one, now a trail spare, is 1330 on the slip (1330-1350 conversion joint) and 1350 at the axle) Now all driveshaft u-joints are 1350, except the front D60.

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I need to address a slight oil pan clearance issue to go to 1350 at that end, too. 1310 yoke barely fits at full stuff, just a wee bit of friendly contact with the oil pan.

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I had to chop the crossmember to allow for the one piece driveshaft so I got creative with some 2x .188 strap. Clears at full droop with 3/4" clearance.

It's got some funky angles to account for the bend in the original Ford crossmember.



Drooped out

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#231 · (Edited)
Drove the Scout 5 hours to Hidden Falls Offroad Park in Marble Falls, TX for the Hill Country Binder Bash. I had a great time and got to finally meet my imaginary internet friends.


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Edit: Added 2 more sweet action shots:
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#236 ·
You bet :grinpimp: Yeah it was great to get out an 'wheel instead of being a jackstand hero & mall crawler.

That DS/oil pan issue will self clearance.... (just carry some JB weld).
I knew the clearance was going to be super close. I had some JB weld...just in case. I'm gonna give it a couple of good whacks with a BFH, now that I know exactly where to hit it :D I'll need to notch the oil pan to clear a 1350 yoke, but that should hold for now.

That looks like a blast, can't wait to get out and use mine.

Nice write-up on the drive shaft tech too.
Thanks, I stole the idea from OldBlueCJ7's write up (his pics are gone though) http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/485542-driveshaft-shortening-101-a.html

What a cool build thread. Like your truck.

I know you solved the squirreliness with a sway bar out back. Seems to me moving the leaf springs outboard a few inches would also be effective at stabilizing the truck. My nitpicky 2 cents worth. I'm amazed you got that big diesel in a little 800. Definitely one of the coolest 800s I've ever seen.
Thanks. You are probably right-if I outboarded the springs it would be more stable...but IMHO not worth the work to do it. If I was going to spend more time on the suspension, it would be to do a 3 or 4 link.

With long flat leaf springs it flexes really well. We went through a canyon called Bronco Buster that has some pretty good axle twisters and the Scout just crawled right through.

The Scout did awesome, I ran 65-70MPH going there and back, got ~16-17 MPG, I even got up to 80MPH once passing a truck...a Scout 80 on 37s does not need to go 80!:eek:
 
#235 ·
What a cool build thread. Like your truck.

I know you solved the squirreliness with a sway bar out back. Seems to me moving the leaf springs outboard a few inches would also be effective at stabilizing the truck. My nitpicky 2 cents worth. I'm amazed you got that big diesel in a little 800. Definitely one of the coolest 800s I've ever seen.
 
#237 ·
Looking into sway bars for the kids and was wondering which ones you used and what you think of them and if you would have gone with either a stiffer or softer bar.

The front of hers with the 53" springs is getting pretty hairy. I am going to try to get the ones under the rear Friday so I can take it out for a decent little shake down this weekend, and I am expecting that to make the body roll allot worse.
 
#238 · (Edited)
I got the Currie Anti-Rock sway bars, 36" width, with the steel 18" arms CE 9901-18. Sway Bar diameter is .75" 36" is the perfect width for the Scout frame. Currie Enterprises CJ Axle Parts
Ouch! Price has gone up! I paid ~$350/ea

I started off on the center hole/middle adjustment in the arm, and worked well with no top, but once I added the top back on put some weight in the back, I had to move down to the stiffest setting, which is still a bit soft but seems to be working well. I might drill another hole to shorten it a bit more.

I think you can order a .800" diam bar, too.

I'm very happy with them, I was going to try to junkyard scrounge something together, but they saved me a ton of fab work, it was very easy to install, lots of adjustability. Work good offroad, too.
 
#239 · (Edited)
Found some old pics from when I was getting the Scout ready to ship back from Hawaii. I knew my hard top was in rough shape, but it had been hanging in my garage for 4 years...it wasn't really a priority when it's 78* year round :D

So I dropped it down and started peeling off latex caulking, fiberglass window screen and Bondo and uncovered a lot more rust :mad3: If I had access to another hard top I would have pulled the glass and scrapped it, but I didn't and I needed the hard top at least semi-servicable.

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Aluminum flashing screwed into the top:
 
#240 ·
So I used my hitch mounted homemade sheetmetal brake to bend up a new drip rail for above the back lift gate.



The original drip rail had a seam in the bottom that allowed water to collect and just rusted away the entire bit, so I cutout the rust and made an extra long piece so the water couldn't get in, I also added another piece of angle along the top of the lift gate on the inside to reinforce.

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I used some 3M VHB tape to bond the aluminum angle, super strong stuff!
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#241 ·
The front windshield flange was pretty rough in the corners, it was completely rusted through on the driver's side. I used some 16 ga to make a whole new flange. Should be stronger than the original, it's a bit thicker.

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Then I used fiberglass cloth mat and fiberglassed the perimeter of the hardtop around the drip rails and about 3 inches up the top to seal up any pin holes, etc. Lost the pics of that when I broke my phone.

Should last me a few more years now, once I get some Hushmat and paint on it.
 
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