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Old 01-28-2014, 07:00 PM   #226 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ditchrunner View Post
Nice conservative grooving. I groove the front side to get a new biting edge when I do mine.
One issue with the FCs on your rig is relative size/weight. Wayd can walk away from me most days on 33s because he weighs ~3000 while I'm on 35s with 5k. SSS weighs 7k? You need a lot of tire to support that much weight. I bet if I put those FCs on the explorer it would rock. Except for the anemic power, of course.
I cut the backside because the front seemed to still be square enough / have enough bite, and a) I can swap sides, or more like b) I can cut the front of the other groove - prehaps later, when the corners are worn down.

It's not fat, just big boned.

Front the BinderBash last summer..

3,120 lbs nose
2,920 lbs tail

6,040lbs

I think that was without my "usual" assortment of spare parts.

Only 700lbs heavier than Tigger.

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I had an old set of 35" Rough Terrain? Schwab tires that I traded Rob Currier for on my Runner several years ago. I went for a lot of lateral grooving like you did. Worked great going forward, but didn't do so well sidehilling. I'd think about a radial groove on your remaining uncut outer lugs to give you a bit more sidehill bite.
I didn't get carried away for that reason, and I was thinking of a radial groove, too. I was also hoping the stock pattern - that I didn't really screw up too badly - would help me out.

As I grooved more, I started to cut the outer lug with a squiggle instead of a straight line when I could, to try to avoid the "boggers go sideways!" problem.

But maybe some slanted/pointy eyebrows are needed..

Quote:
I've got 3 30%-ish 38" TSL's if you're interested in some for spares or grooving experimentation. I just scored another half-dozen 36" Iroks, so I will likely NEVER use the 38's.
I'd very much like to get my hands a 38" spare, Shawn.

Ideally, a 38.5x11 Bogger for my "donut" but I'll take what I can get.

Mark me down for one, and then we'll sort out shipping someday.. my F350 is still at the transmission shop in Billings..

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This is just how I had in visioned the Snow Scout to look like, and with the tons and Detroit lockers you should just beat it like a rented mule.

Glad to see you enjoying it.
Glad you approve, Robert!

I need to get a few more things squared away, get this computer system "live" this weekend, and then beat this poor Scout like it owes me money next month.

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Old 01-29-2014, 08:58 AM   #227 (permalink)
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I'd very much like to get my hands a 38" spare, Shawn.

Ideally, a 38.5x11 Bogger for my "donut" but I'll take what I can get.

Mark me down for one, and then we'll sort out shipping someday.. my F350 is still at the transmission shop in Billings..
If you take one, you have to take all three!!

I seriously don't have a use for them. I am probably taking a run to Bozeman tomorrow, and definitely to Bozeman next weekend, so I can drop them in Helena. Is one time better than the other?
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Old 02-06-2014, 02:57 AM   #228 (permalink)
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Talking

Man this is awesome! This was my old Scout that I sold to Jetfixr. That was a fun truck. My kids loved to get picked up from school in the "monster truck" with no doors. It's got stories and a ton of pictures to tell it's whole life. I'm so glad it is continuing to be built and not scrapped somewhere. That t-case is a Dana 300 with a 4:1 terra low kit in it unless it was changed somewhere down the line which it may have as I admit I didn't read every post as I was just enjoying seeing the progress. Them Scoobey Doo stickers were put on when my wife picked em up at the dollar store on the way to Divide ride some years back for fun. If you are ever in Billings I would love to see it or if I make it your direction I may contact you if thats alright. Thank you for building this truck. Ive got pictures of when I bought it stock from the second owner in Texas and am loving the transformation it has gone through. Keep it up.


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Old 02-16-2014, 11:58 AM   #229 (permalink)
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Man this is awesome! This was my old Scout that I sold to Jetfixr. That was a fun truck. My kids loved to get picked up from school in the "monster truck" with no doors. It's got stories and a ton of pictures to tell it's whole life. I'm so glad it is continuing to be built and not scrapped somewhere. That t-case is a Dana 300 with a 4:1 terra low kit in it unless it was changed somewhere down the line which it may have as I admit I didn't read every post as I was just enjoying seeing the progress. Them Scoobey Doo stickers were put on when my wife picked em up at the dollar store on the way to Divide ride some years back for fun. If you are ever in Billings I would love to see it or if I make it your direction I may contact you if thats alright. Thank you for building this truck. Ive got pictures of when I bought it stock from the second owner in Texas and am loving the transformation it has gone through. Keep it up.


A rig with history!

I believe Robert sold the 4-1 Dana 300 and put in the 3:1 Dana 20 - Dana 300s are harder to replace when you grenade them.

I do have a question about the engine. Who built it, and what is inside?

It "feels" like there's a bit of a cam - more than I've usually run - and I know how to make up for that (more foot!) but then that makes me wonder what valve springs are inside and just how hard I can wind it - I have no problem holding the right SV at 6000rpm for an hour.. but they don't all enjoy that.

The 345 runs well enough I'm not anxious to tear into it - but I would like an idea of what is inside.


Recent updates - I ground the end of the driver's stub-shaft and it seems to have stopped the hub from "auto-locking" on me (the stub shaft was tapping the hub dial and spinning it on me)

The ECU is now mounted to the passenger kick panel.

T'stat now a 195deg Robert Shaw unit.

The OBA switch is wired into the cab.

Numerous holes still need patched - the kids were having fun looking at the ground passing by on our way to the Frontier 4x4 "Holiday" party yesterday. Lots of drafts to try to plug up, too.

Along with a noise to track down from the T19. A rattle of sorts, that often goes away once warmed up.
Present when moving with the clutch in or out (so likely not the throw-out bearing chatter it had when I first got it)

I need to double check, but IIRC only present when moving.

The T19 was dry when I picked the Scout up and I didn't check. I've never known what a spun-bearing in a T19 sounds like, but that's what I'm wondering..
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:34 PM   #230 (permalink)
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hortly later,

I need to update with a few more progress pictures.

I replaced the no-key-needed ignition tumbler, almost got the steering wheel back on "straight", and installed keyed locks in both doors.

I do need to sort out the door lock assemblies - both are lacking "spring" - usually, you turn the key and you hit a point where the door lock "pops" up and stays put - this Scout, if you hold the key turned you can open it, if you remove the key, it is 50/50 that gravity has relocked the door on you.

Still, you need a key to fire it up, and that's a step in the right direction towards parking it outside, or taking it into town for dinner.

But one step forward, two back.

I put a quart of oil into the T19, checked the engine oil and such, and went wheelin' on Sunday.

Audrey is growing up - she can reach the door handle now.



Even got to use the winch.



Though I also found I could install the winch remote upside down and it only powers in, not out if you do that..


Also found that I need to upgrade the battery cable running nicely inside the frame rail to the rear mounted batteries - the voltage drop is enough at times to make the FI ECU unhappy.

Shawn was right, and I should put some lateral grooving into the tires.. plus this stretch of road sucked on the way in and back out.



But what really sucked was as we got to the lake, I started hearing a noise. It was rhythmic. I tried 2wd and the noise remained. Faster, slower.. sure sounds bad.

At first it was OK at idle. Blip the throttle, and knock knock knock from the engine bay - when sitting still. Then a few times it was "squawk" and "chirp" even at idle.

I put the spare 50wt into the engine and tried to limp home.

Tried to keep the revs down and made it most of the way down out of the hills without too much trouble.

Even ran the OBA to fill the tires.

Then decided to take the dirt road home to keep my speed/RPMs down.

At which point I was surprised to overheat.



Hrrmm.

I've never known a rod knock to make an engine overheat.

But upon closer examination (after the scalding steam quit), I have known the old "big nut" water pump and fan-clutch assembly to fail before, and when they do, I've noticed the engine doesn't cool off.

Which made me wonder if the deep bottom end sound I heard was really the waterpump failing (hah!)

Call for backup, then scrounge for some water and try for home - this time thinking if I just keep my speed up, I'll have some airflow.

The knock didn't go away. I scared Michelle as I tried to slalom my way back to town.

The knock didn't go away, but the broken clutch fan did - well, it got intimate with the radiator as I got closer to town, culminating in another big cloud of steam, and the engine quitting as I tried to steer into the first parking lot on the edge of town (without a functioning hydraulic ram, of course).

My mom was able to follow my trail in her... Cherokee.. and pick us up.

It didn't take long to get the T444E powered Fix-Or-Repair-Daily hitched to the gooseneck.


I put some water in the radiator, but it just ran out from the gaping holes.. but the Scout did start and drive onto the trailer under its own power - no winching!



Looks like I will be assembling that 392 I started on a few years back but quit when it needed more than a re-ring, and I didn't really need another engine.. the "George 392".. just jumped a few spots in line.

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Old 05-01-2014, 07:49 AM   #231 (permalink)
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Tom my friend you have some bad mojo. You have the same luck I have when it comes to stationary motors. Sadly you would be time and money ahead to pull the 392 out of the Tette and then part the rest, I have not tried real hard to sell mine but no one will step up to buy a Tette for near the cost of building even a mild engine much less a good one.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:14 PM   #232 (permalink)
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Awesome build! Compared to inboarding the rear shocks, did the outboarded shocks increase stability?
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Old 08-22-2014, 06:30 PM   #233 (permalink)
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Awesome build! Compared to inboarding the rear shocks, did the outboarded shocks increase stability?
I've done both, but not on this Scout.

On my racer I originally ran the shocks angled inboard - mounted the lower mount on the truss, and ran a piece of angle between the two stock upper shock mounts and then had the shock tops touching at the center in a steep triangle.

It may have aided cornering a little, but who knows.

Later, I ran the shocks through the bed to a bed hoop, running them closer to straight up and down.

I do think they worked much better - they got hotter, but they also worked better.

I can also confirm that NO rear shocks is one way to increase your odds of a rear-over-front roll when you launch off a jump.

You can make up for some of the "angled shocks suck" by over-valving the shocks, but it's a lot easier to get good shock performance if you're closer to a "1:1" ratio of wheel movement to shock stroke.


As to the Snow Scout, it hasn't moved since I shoved it off the gooseneck.

I have been working on the 392 though.

The rods are lightened (slightly) and polished (a lot) and are at the machine shop with the stroked crank and other parts for balancing.

The heads have been getting ported as I find time.

The block needs the frost plugs and oil plugs removed and such - it was already bored and cam bearings installed, but once the reciprocating assembly comes back, I have to do the mock assembly and measure the deck height - then wait for the block to be decked (0-deck).

It can get another washing at the same time.

Then the valve job should be done while I put the bottom end together and get ready to install it.. along with a replacement T19, water pump / fan, and radiator.
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Old 10-13-2014, 10:01 PM   #234 (permalink)
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It has moved.. I fired it up - knock was still there - and made my way over to the shop.

Among other things, I wanted to mow the tall grass where it was parked.

It sits HIGHER now that the engine is out!

I dropped the Dana 20, then pulled the 392 and T19 together.

I have a 20T air over hydraulic bottle jack from HF. I had top put a cinder block under it to get enough height just to hold the transmission in place while I pulled the crossmember, driveshafts, and the Dana 20.

I then pulled the shifter from the T19, and then cussed a little at the weird engine mounts this Scout came with. The engine bolts are a two-hand, two-wrench affair. Not like a stock mount, or like the RPTs I have on the rest of the fleet.

The radiator was easily removed, I peeled the wiring harness back, unhooked the clutch relay, disconnected the fuel lines and such.. and I was about ready to pull it out.

I used my 4-point load leveler on the engine, and was able to lift the engine and transmission together after twisting and tilting and so forth.

I did have to remove the grille and the cross piece that holds the two inner fenders together - I needed the height after maxing the boom on the hoist (at full extension, too).

I could have pulled the 8274 to make it easier, too - as it was, I pulled the front tires, then set the rotors on some cinder blocks and just barely snaked the engine around the 8274 and inner fenders.



Next time, the rotors go on the ground (or a 4x4) - but I couldn't get the floor jack under it with the hoist already in place, and the bottle jack didn't go low enough..

Audrey was kind enough to pose tonight..




Which reminded me of this picture, from 9/17/2011 when her older sister and I brought this Scout home.





While I'm waiting on the machine shop, I ordered 25' of 4/0 welding cable with the intention of both replacing the wire running back to the rear mounted batteries, but also I'm thinking of moving the batteries from "rear corner, against the wheel tubs" to "rear corner, against the rear corner" so I can open up the rear wheel tubs a little more.

You may recall this picture from January.


Tires hit the rear of the rear wheel well - on the inner.




(Switching sides)


I think the "box" needs to go. That stiffener might get cut out leaving just the rear vertical of it in place for strength.

This would add 2-2.5" of clearance.

There is a stiffening and a curved corner on the wheel tubs - and they do look so nice.

Maybe I can cut a diagonal cut



Cutting below the bead-roll, then cut across the wheel well and then free it from the inner fender.

Slide the wheel tub back 2 or 2.5", fill in the gap mostly with a 2" flat bar.

The inner wheel well wouldn't be gracefully arched any more - it'd have a flatish spot in the otherwise nice contour - but I'd have the clearance I need to run some bigger tires.

(The front half is doing fine for now and already has the rear seat mounts in place, and the rear seat was narrowed to just fit the wheel tubs and... Tom's not that ambitious to cut 'em out entirely)
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Old 10-13-2014, 10:14 PM   #235 (permalink)
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I used some "full dog" set screws on the heads. I had to drill out the AIR port a little to get the plugs in, then carbide-burr'd the humps out.





I didn't take pictures of the finished heads, but they're in the car awaiting transport to the machine shop.

Along with new intake and exhaust valves, and some Comp Cams parts.

612-16 keepers, 741-16 retainers.


930-16 springs



Not going to the machine shop, but sitting in the shop is the new cam.



Comp took an IH cam blank, and cut it with a Mopar "Magnum" grind "XE262H" with the thought that I'm getting a more modern cam profile designed for the (bigger than a Chevy) Mopar lifters.

For the racer, I went with an off the shelf grind for the bigger Mopar lifters, but the "smallest" cam in that series is IMHO too much for a trail rig - I had to talk myself into thinking it was not too big for the race 'mill.

Not having had a chance to drive that engine, I wasn't interested in taking a chance on going too wild.

I've had good results with the Isky 262/262 in my trail rig before, so this should work out.

Tech tid-bit - I asked about nitriding the cam, but was advised even with the high spring pressures I run, our 1" diameter IH lifters (and a cam cut for the smaller Mopar lifters) pretty much makes the additional nitriding process unnecessary.

I started this engine a few years ago (it was a re-ring 392 project then..) but started to get after it in April.. yet here I am wondering if I'll be ready for "SnowBash" in January..

Which explains why I pulled the engine "prematurely" - I wanted to wait until the new 'mill was ready to go, but I'm taking advantage of decent weather and getting some other stuff done while I can.

I still need to pick out a set of rocker arms and shafts, and clean up a BBC TBI unit.. but mostly, I need the bottom end back so I can get the deck height measured and then wait another couple weeks while they deck the block before I can get after things.

Fortunately, the shop is heated.
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:19 AM   #236 (permalink)
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Which reminded me of this picture, from 9/17/2011 when her older sister and I brought this Scout home.

That was funny running into you that day, when we were on our way home from the WW100 in Columbus. They sure do grow up quickly, don't they?!
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Old 10-15-2014, 09:33 PM   #237 (permalink)
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That was funny running into you that day, when we were on our way home from the WW100 in Columbus. They sure do grow up quickly, don't they?!
Wow, I had forgotten about our VHF simplex discussion that day.

Yes, like weeds!

Robert might recognize this engine stand/dolly.



I haven't pulled the T19 off yet.

I am going to replace it with my spare that AFAIK doesn't have spun bearings..

Yes, I need to swap the output gear because I plan to use the 3-1 t'case with the replacement T19.

Also making progress on the engine.

I got my balanced parts back.



Bob weight for the rod and piston was 2818g!

If my notes are correct, that is almost 1kg heavier than the lightened rods I did for the racer...

When this engine is slow to spin up, I'll know why.

Now to get the deck height measured and get the block back to the machine shop for decking.
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:24 PM   #238 (permalink)
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10/19 I plastigaged the crank/mains, installed some pistons, and measured the deck height.



Hard to see, but:

left-front needed .036, right front .044
LR - I can't read it, but RR needed .040

I want to say the left rear was .032" in the hole.

So this block was .008" off "left to right" and .004 off "front to back"

It has since been decked.

Then, I did something I've only recently started doing.

With the block back from the machine shop, I painted it first.



I also went with Glyptal on the valley again.



Meanwhile, I had been blasting and powder coating more misc parts.

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Old 01-04-2015, 08:53 PM   #239 (permalink)
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Starting to resemble something finally.



I sorted through the piles and gathered some rocker shafts and arms and so forth.

I measured the welded style rocker arms first and found almost all of them are worn beyond spec - but all about the same beyond spec.

I thought I'd give them a try - this is the first time I bothered to measure a set, for all I know, every other set I've used was worn out too..

Unfortunately, I look to be a boat-rocker convert.








If you look closely, you'll see that the intake valve is not touching the valve stem, but it *IS* touching the spring retainer (which is why it isn't touching the valve stem)

I'm sure it will self-clearance...

OR, I can run the boat rockers.





So, now to make up another set of arms for the other side again..

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Old 01-13-2015, 05:06 PM   #240 (permalink)
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Tom,

Let me look and see if I have a good set of the welded rockers. I'll let ya know this weekend if I do or not.
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Old 01-13-2015, 06:28 PM   #241 (permalink)
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Tom,

Let me look and see if I have a good set of the welded rockers. I'll let ya know this weekend if I do or not.
Thanks, but I have good examples of both - or good enough examples.

The welded rockers rub on the valve springs - or the springs rub on the rockers.

So I'm going to use some "boat" rockers which are a little more svelte than the welded rockers (no "bushing" to weld to) and clear just fine.

I just haven't found an hour or two to finish buttoning this up - last week was "club meeting week" and this week I'm in wonderful Wyoming.

Maybe this weekend - though my youngest has a birthday coming up.

April will be 1 year since I wheeled this Scout. Time flies.
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Old 01-15-2015, 07:09 PM   #242 (permalink)
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Old 02-19-2015, 10:03 PM   #243 (permalink)
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Finally got a little help in the shop.



And after the girls helped me install the valve covers and the bellhousing bolts I made the Scout a low-rider and swung the engine and transmission inside.




It took some doing to get the PTO cover to seal back up after I pulled it to clean some gunk out (and look for the missing roll-pin for the shifter - never did find it) but got it done eventually.

Then hung the Dana 20, the crossmember, the driveshafts, lots of oil everywhere...




With the new motor, I upgraded from the 350 TBI to a 454 unit.

Mark made me this TBI intake years (and years!) ago - unfortunately, Bill convinced me to check and you can't just drop the BBC TBI on it - the IAC winds up "floating" over just the gasket, and may develop a vacuum leak.

Fortunately, I had these TBI adapter plates I bought from BCB at the JustIH show a few years back for just such a purpose (and, it turns out, I would have needed to buy a new aircleaner spacer to clear the thermostat housing anyways)



Right Stuff isn't meant for fuel, but it shouldn't see any - and I don't plan on removing this adapter plate..




Here's an annoying thing - BBC IAC is different from the small-block version. You can't swap them, and the wiring is different, but for $15 or so you can buy an adapter harness.


I had no such luck going from the late model "small" 3-pin TPS to the older 3-pin TPS (and here again, the old style has a "flat" bolt pattern, while the new style has an "L" bolt pattern) - aside from splicing A and C backwards the first time, my splice worked out - and my harness now has both TPS connectors.

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Old 02-19-2015, 10:17 PM   #244 (permalink)
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So, with the radiator re-installed, fluid filled, etc it was time to put the tires back on to level the Scout out to fill the Dana 20.

I ran a hose for the breather up to the engine bay - and then used it to fill the 'case first.



So tonight I got home from work, grabbed a battery and set it on the heater box, rigged up some wires, and sorted out a few last minute things.

Then primed the oiling system, pulled the distributor out of the dead 345, dropped it in, and after a few moments..

Fired it up

Ran it for the 20 minute cam break-in, got to about 190deg, and shut it down.

One valve cover leaked a little - it has been tightened.

Otherwise, some oil slung from me spilling as I added some (poured down the distributor hole) to get to 6 qts (had 4 in it).

Factory temp gauge still doesn't work - I used a different sender this time, but no dice. Hrrmm.

Oil pressure gauge read fine.

TBI worked fine.. so far so good.

I couldn't take it for a spin - given the battery perched on the heater core.

My BLMs of 108 say I'm a bit rich using the 454 TBI and the tune from the old 345. I'll dial out some fuel next time - of course, it'll be rich until the rings seat, so no need to get too carried away.

So, while the exhaust cleared out of the shop, I removed the battery, cleaned up a bit, and shoved the Scout forward so I could work on mounting the battery again.. after a little surgery.






I cut the body back to the rear edge of the "box" stiffener.

Tomorrow I'll get a 12x12 sheet of 18g or so, I'm going to put it into the brake and make it 12" by 8x4 or 9x3 with a 3" "L" down one side.

It'll then fit about where the piece of steel is now - the "L" gets trimmed to match the curve of the wheel well, and then the bottom that hangs down will get bent a little again to curve back and away.

That is intended to solve this problem:



I replaced the 2g main power lead that ran from the rear mounted batteries up to the front with a 4/0 cable, so if the battery box was moving now was the time to do it before I cut the end of the cable and crimp the lug on.

So when I'm done, the battery box will be to the rear corner against the cage, rather than forward against the wheel well like before.

And I'll have 2" or so more clearance at the rear for tires, should I feel the the 38s become too small..

Still need to set the timing on the TBI - the disconnect and set to 0 bit - but if I can get the wheel well finished and the battery mounted, maybe I can start driving it to work to work in the new 'mill.
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Old 02-21-2015, 11:42 PM   #245 (permalink)
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Tom,
Glad to see the SnowScout getting some love!
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:32 PM   #246 (permalink)
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Tom,
Glad to see the SnowScout getting some love!
Me too!

I've been wrenching on the engine for the past year - though I started THIS engine a few years before that, I didn't get serious about it until the SnowScout went down in April.

$1.25 at Pacific netted me a 12x12 hunk of something close to 16gauge steel.

Into the press-brake.





Mock fitment


Then, because my inner-quarter cut wasn't just right, I opted to put another bend in to make a Z, so it wraps around the inner quarter - I was then able to weld the inside and outside with a nice little overlap of factory metal.

The outer welds came out better than the inside - I think thanks to the Herculiner that I ground off, but didn't wash.





I welded both from the inside and outside - you can see some flame marks from the burnt Herculiner.



I also laid some ugly welds on the back/under side but I wanted to attach to what was left of the factory box structure - you can see the "box" on the left still.



Inside view
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:42 PM   #247 (permalink)
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Paint..

And with the tire back on


(and the before picture)


I changed my mind on the battery mounting location and put it back against the fender again, leaving a nice little cubby hole at the rear corner of the bed for stashing stuff.



I mounted the new battery box, and ran the 4/0 wire into place, slide some 7/8 heater hose over it at various spots for protection, and crimped on the end with my hydraulic crimper.

So it's runnable again with the battery mounted up and wired. Woot!

Then I decided I should do a little something with the Hi-Lift mount - it usually sits on the wheel well, with the baseplate against the tailgate (end-cap), and just to the right of the photo you can see a piece of plate welded to the down-tube - it has a nut welded to the back, and a 1/2" bolt goes through the Jack.

That works fine, but you need a 3/4" ratchet to get the jack out.

So I welded a nut to the cage a little farther up.

I'm going to install a stud in both nuts, but then use the "forward" stud with a big wing-nut.

The original location was too close to the jack base to use a wing-nut, but I can use it to help locate the jack still.

Dropping the jack down to weld the nut in place gave me an opportunity to show how I mounted the axle.

Like the Hi-Lift, it sits on the wheel well, the head end of the handle sits between two U-bolts, with a bolt to secure it in place.

Remove the Hi-Lift, pull the pin, and rotate the axe head out and get to work.

But most of the time, it's in a safe spot.

Both it and the Hi-Lift sit outside of the B-hoop (sits between the B-hoop and body at the front), so the front end can't flop about and hit anyone, and then even if it goes UP, it remains outboard of the C-hoop the entire time too - and it's still secure at the rear edge, with the U-bolt/pin arrangement for the axe, and then the axle is ALSO smashed in place by the Hi-Lift secured on the 1/2" bolt.


I don't know that I'll do the driver's side wheel well just yet - I did the passenger side because the battery cable was replaced, which meant the battery was out - and it's a PITA.

For now.. I want to get out and break in this engine, so I started picking up the tools, metal discards, and so forth.



Still a tunnel cover to install and some more misc. cleanup before I get to go joy riding, but soon, darn it!
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Old 02-23-2015, 01:13 PM   #248 (permalink)
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Just read the whole thing from the beginning, cool project you got there. Reminds me of the commando I'm working on.
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Old 02-23-2015, 01:59 PM   #249 (permalink)
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Just read the whole thing from the beginning, cool project you got there. Reminds me of the commando I'm working on.
Thanks. I've seen a lot of nice rigs come out of Canada - both wheelers and racers.

Used to see a lot of guys from Lethbridge with some cool rigs..
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:53 PM   #250 (permalink)
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Maybe I didn't need that 4/0 battery cable.

I've been fighting a sporadic spark - well, sporadic signal from the hall effect.

Maybe had something to do with a .050" air-gap on my Duraspark conversion distributor.


Same thing, but with the desired air-gap feeler.


Theory I have is with the remote battery, it doesn't crank as fast, and the slower turning rotor results in a lower AC voltage (should be 0.3 to 2-ish VAC) and the ECM doesn't "see" the engine turning.

So I built another distributor.



Using the Mopar pickup that is more work - you have to mount it - but allows more adjustment (since you have to mount it)


That seems to have improved the signal.

I'm still too rich and have trouble getting it to run - it was flooding - I could get it to spit and cough and stumble and sometimes it would come up, sometimes it would fall down.

But when I first started it, I was able to go for a short trip down the road and back.

The driver's header was loose and leaking - tightened.
The clutch needed adjusted - adjusted.

Most annoying is an intake manifold leak. I've never had one before, but this one leaks - I pulled it up a few inches with the hoist and replaced the gaskets again and buttoned it back up, but still have coolant trickling down the top/outside lip of the valley pan and then running down onto the bell-housing.

Argh.

Have I just been lucky all these years with no intake sealing problems on stock motors, or motors with a ton of decking, and everything in between?

I guess it's time to really strip the intake of everything and then pop it off and have a closer look this time - see if there's something obvious on the gasket surfaces, check it with a straight edge.. or just prep a spreadbore intake from the pile and try that.

But I did at least get it outside and around the block - and mucked out the mess in the shop.

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