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Old 03-22-2017, 09:54 PM   #301 (permalink)
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To the ramp!



As I feared..




Now, I have to decide.

Do I cut the corner of the firewall and bring that "in" a little and call it good?

Or do I push the front axle forward 1"?

I could redrill the spring perch center pin, unbolt, slide forward, etc.

The front bumper would probably still clear.

This, with the tire turned right, not left


DUH, clearance isn't so bad straight ahead.


but you can sure make out that little chunk of firewall/floor pan that needs to go.

It already had the pinch weld trimmed and plated. I can cut some from this corner and still keep my clutch.

No worries if the driveshaft is long enough, no moving the shocks from the front to the back of the mount.. I'm very tempted to just cut and plate that corner on both sides..




On the plus side, the extra tubbing I did in the rear makes the 44x18.50s fit. Not much left over, but they fit.



That should make the new 42s an easy fit.

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Old 03-22-2017, 10:08 PM   #302 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RANGERROD View Post
Your tilting seats is very familiar to mine. I never quite finished mine. I used bear claw latches to hold mine down. The pivot point was basically the same.

I'll have to go back through your build great documentation.
Thanks.

I found some of those nicer latches after I was already on my way.

Aside from some clearancing to do to make the pins slide in and out a little better, I like round 2 - with the split tube for the handle and a single cable run (not two) - though it hasn't proven any easier to adjust the "two" lengths than using two runs of cable was.

I think I really need to lower the entire seat frame in the Scout so I can have a little more head-room AND if I need to, I can raise the seat tabs, but as it stands, I have everything about as low as I can manage without lowering the seat mounting bars.

I do like that my wife can run 5pts AND my kids can get out when she tilts the seat.

I have since added a tension spring under the passenger seat - and need to add another - to help her lift/tilt the seat.
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Old 03-22-2017, 10:16 PM   #303 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tsm1mt View Post
Thanks.

I found some of those nicer latches after I was already on my way.

Aside from some clearancing to do to make the pins slide in and out a little better, I like round 2 - with the split tube for the handle and a single cable run (not two) - though it hasn't proven any easier to adjust the "two" lengths than using two runs of cable was.

I think I really need to lower the entire seat frame in the Scout so I can have a little more head-room AND if I need to, I can raise the seat tabs, but as it stands, I have everything about as low as I can manage without lowering the seat mounting bars.

I do like that my wife can run 5pts AND my kids can get out when she tilts the seat.

I have since added a tension spring under the passenger seat - and need to add another - to help her lift/tilt the seat.
Only thing I have that you don't is seat sliders too. It was a bitch getting the seats low. Keep it up!!
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Old 03-26-2017, 08:35 PM   #304 (permalink)
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Only thing I have that you don't is seat sliders too. It was a bitch getting the seats low. Keep it up!!
That's why no sliders yet.. I can't afford the height right now.

I'm also unclear on if sliders are a good thing with 5pts or if they're too likely to move around in a bad situation.

Another depiction of breaking down the bead locks.





(That was an expensive bucket - it is the one my e-locker came in LOL)

I've been putting some tire beads in with the new TSLs.

I forget what Robert said he used previously, but for the good of the order, I'm not sure what's going on inside this one. I found some powder like this in the other tires, but this one sorta looks like someone didn't open the bag.




Those are thin curls of plastic mixed with the balancing powder.

Hopefully it is just that - someone tossed the bag in. Otherwise, whatever was used, maybe it didn't hold up.

Saturday night I finished mounting the last of 'em, and on Sunday I got them all installed


They stick out about the same as the 38s did.



Much more manageable than the 44x18.50s..


So, no sooner than I got the 4 tires installed, I pulled the LF..

As you can see, I had worked on the pinch weld before.



I pulled the vent, pulled the dimmer switch, made some marks and away I went.

I used the 3" air-cut-off - the Sawzall hit the rocker/fender/something else most of the time, and while the plasma would have been awesome, there's too much oil on everything from the broken motor mount/oil filter AND there's the bedliner in the interior - with the cut-off wheel the bedliner just smoked a bit.

I did wash the area with 409 before I got started to get the worst of it.

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Old 03-26-2017, 08:43 PM   #305 (permalink)
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So, back to the ramp.

I should've turned the hubs in - even without the tire hitting, it gets to where it shoves the ramp forward rather than climb it - I'm too lazy to drop the A-arms and make it sit in the dirt.




It cleared, though I still had another 1/4" or so of up-travel to account for.






Not much extra though.




So after I got back around to the driveway, I cut some more out for good measure.



Then a cardboard template.



I transferred it to some 18g sheet metal and got that about fitted before it was time for dinner. Maybe tomorrow evening I'll tack it into place and make another trip up the ramp - then cut the same out of the passenger side.
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Old 03-27-2017, 07:25 PM   #306 (permalink)
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This time, I turned in the hubs and crept farther up the ramp.




Looks like I should've cut just a little more - but that would get into the flange for the vent. Not that the vents work, or it is a big deal - just another headache to followup with.



I see a gap in my weld, too.



This time I made it to the bump stop.



(Bump and shock fully compressed)

Much more, and I will have to worry about my brake lines - as they come out of the master.



I worked the wheel a little and listened to the tire scrub on the firewall - but "just"



So, I'm inclined to call it good enough - it lightly rubs at full bump, but a little tire wear will fix that.

I need to grind down the seam a little more, maybe tack that spot I missed, and hit it with some paint.

I'll try to get a little closer to the vent when I do the passenger side.

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Old 03-27-2017, 07:32 PM   #307 (permalink)
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Rear also went a little farther - and scrapes a little.








Rear of the quarter panel needs trimmed just a touch - the wheel well is done, so I'll live with it regardless - but it, too, looks like it barely scrapes.




And since I was under there.. undercarriage mess..



...and does ~670 on the RTI ramp make me a ramp champ? (I think I need to add 3" to account for the missing nose of the ramp).

OTOH, I forget what the angle is - it's a 35deg ramp when it sits on the ground, but with the A-arms down and the tires on it, I need to check what the angle is..

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Old 04-02-2017, 11:26 PM   #308 (permalink)
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Those TSL's look

BTW, What's your frame height with the new tires?
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Old 04-03-2017, 08:58 PM   #309 (permalink)
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Thanks.

23" just behind the front hangers/cab mount, and 22.5/22.75 at the front of the rear hangers/mid mount.



Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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Old 04-04-2017, 05:20 PM   #310 (permalink)
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looking great.
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Old 04-05-2017, 05:00 PM   #311 (permalink)
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Damn those 42s look HUGE. Those Hutchison beadlocks are awesome. 16" or 16.5"?
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Old 04-13-2017, 11:25 AM   #312 (permalink)
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Nice well documented build you have going on. The TSLs look like they were made for your rig.
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