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Old 03-09-2012, 08:31 AM   #126 (permalink)
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Studs arrived last night.

A little long - I'm debating on whether to shorten them or not.



Found an alternator on Amazon, that was supposed to be a 140amp CS144. Price was good, no core charge, no shipping.

I was surprised to find it came with a dyno sheet.



and that it was tested to 190amps.

Looks like I need a really heavy charge wire to the Ford solenoid now.

Removed one TBI intake adapter for another, cleaned up one of the throttle bodies, and welded up the new tie-rod last night. Still needs the ram clamp welded.

Started pondering the kids' 3pt belts last night, too.



I have a drop of the 2x.120 DOM that's just the right length to cut in half, notch, and bring down from the bend in the down-tube, bring it down just above the shock hoop, to a spring-bushing setup and bolt to the shock mount.

I don't want to weld directly, but a bushing will do the job.

However, I also want to change the shock mounts a bit, turn the shock eye from how it is (bolt runs side to side) to 90-deg (bolt runs front to back) while moving the shock outboard a little (giving clearance between the shock and frame to bring the exhaust to the rear, now that it isn't a half-cab). I keep contemplating cutting the shock hoop out and redoing it, or how best to hang the shock off of it (thought is two pieces of 1/8" plate coming out with the shock mount(s) being the center of the sandwich)

Once the down-tubes are sorted out, they'll be drilled and sleeved for the 3pt belt.
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:55 AM   #127 (permalink)
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I can steer!




I did cut down the studs, removing 3/4" or so from all but one. They are loctited in place, and as you can see, a few nuts are holding the cover up so it doesn't fall and hurt the concrete. The header-stud-nuts should be here Tuesday and I can button it up and fill with fluid.

With that done.. I could get back to what originally started all of this - I needed bump stops installed.




The passenger side will need a shim welded to the U-bolt plate, but the driver's side is pretty close to where it needs to be.

I also fixed most of the daylight visible through the pinch weld that was removed.



First, I made it worse.


Before it became better.


I also added a stiffener to the cut core supports. This will at least help concentrate the stress to a few small sections where it'll be sure to tear, instead of having the whole thing fatigue. I need to shore up those stress points now, too.



You can also see the steel lines from the power steering up to the dual transmission coolers to keep the ram and hydroboost happy.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:00 AM   #128 (permalink)
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I took that drop of 2x.120 1020 DOM and hole-sawed the center, notched the other end for some 1.5" tube (I reused the back-bar I removed) and bushings.






I then went back and renotched the tube to bring the intersection back behind the bend a bit more.



I wanted to move the seat back a little more - without the extra notching, the rear seat is actually forward of stock a little.

I want to try to lay the uprights back a bit to match the seat back.

The bottom end will be 1.5" tube with bushings, then bolted to the shock hoop. I will likely cheat it to the rear as much as I can.

The uprights then get drilled for the 3pt belts.

I want to add at least one rear spreader bar, but will likely have to "hook" the ends in to put the bar rearward a few more inches than it would naturally want to go - I should have put the bend a few inches farther back. I didn't account for the seat back angle when I planned it out.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:17 PM   #129 (permalink)
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Tom, are you expecting those header nuts to go in the recesses in the diff cover? Are you planning on loc-titing the nuts as well?
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:09 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Tom, are you expecting those header nuts to go in the recesses in the diff cover? Are you planning on loc-titing the nuts as well?
Yes, and No.

I am hoping the nuts will go into the recess on the diff cover, and no, I don't intend to loctite the nuts.

We'll see if things work out tomorrow.
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Old 03-13-2012, 12:41 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Closer to being operational again.




I need to lengthen the O2 sensor leads, probably the CTS, and then see where I'm at on the rest.

Robert reminded me of this trick -


That's the old 1/2" fuel line removed from the filler neck, repurposed as a covering for the steel lines where they pass and bend up around the body mount.

Fuel line goes up the firewall and behind the head, then turns forward at the valley to reach the TBI.

Hose isn't hooked up yet, but it's ready to be once I get some bolts for the TBI. You want to avoid mistakes when cutting $3/ft fuel line.

Here's the bump stop installed, too.

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Old 03-15-2012, 08:49 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Finally, I got some nuts.



And they fit!



Beautifully, I might add.



I do need to order another set the next time I'm buying stuff from Jegs - it's a tight fit with a 7/16" deep 12pt socket, and by the time it's really in there, there isn't much bite and it's easy to round 'em off.

I would recommend either a slightly larger counter-bore, or maybe one or two washers to shim it out.

The nuts are JUST the right diameter and it took a little effort to get them to begin to seat beneath the face of the cover.

Now, hopefully it doesn't leak..

Once that was done, I got back to the TBI



..and sorting out seat mount for the #2 seat.

If I just tilt, it hits the rollcage (not the windshield) and yields about 12" of gap.


OTOH, you can get about 2' of room (overkill) if you don't tilt the seat, but instead let it slide until it darn near falls off the rails.



This would require sliders with a 12+" adjustment. I saw some slick seat sliders in Gen4x4 in response to my post that would actually do that - if you machined a T-slot into two bases, you could machine a match for the seat, put a couple of bearings in the T-slot to make it easier, and then a pin to lock it in place, and you could just about run the seat off the rails and still have it hangin' out.

However, I can do about as well with about 8" of slide and a tilt.



Though it does hit the windshield.

I see some aftermarket seat bases for CJ/YJs with a tilt/slide combo for the passenger seat, and maybe I'll order up one, cut the Jeep pedestals off, and sink it into the cage.

I need to find someone to sell me just the right side, though, since all I can find are both sides.

A straight tilt could do it, but a tilt and slide would be better. In either case, I think the seat really should come forward to keep the kids from kicking it (assuming I can do a tilt or super-slide and they won't be walking in front of Michelle to walk through to the back seat)
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Old 03-29-2012, 03:47 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Finally, I seem to be done wiring the fuel injection. I need to tidy up a bit, and track down why the key-switch START doesn't work (it didn't when I got the Scout from JetFxr - the various lights in the dash change, when you go from RUN to START, so it isn't the switch itself..)



I may have fried the ignition module last night, since I forgot to tighten the ground lug in my excitement..

..but it runs.

Now to get some ALDL data logged properly.

I'm waiting on a G2 adapter so I can use my Ostrich. I thought I could cheat, but no. Moates shipped more stuff today.

Plenty of other things to do while I wait.

New bender dies arrived. I thought 1.75 was going to be too big for the seat exo-cage to mount the 5pts and tilt Michelle's seat, so I bought a 1.5" die and just because a 1" to go with it.

I need to order some bronze (or UMHW) bushings which I intend to slice in half and then build or buy some tube clamps.

Idea is to put the bushing around the 1.25" tube seat base, making a 1.5" OD bushing, then clamp 1.75x.120 around that and weld the 1.75 to the 1.5" exo-frame, giving me a pivot at the front of the seat.

Finally finished drilling the rear legs of the rollcage for the rear most body mount bolts. I figure if I'm getting close to driving this thing, it would be nice if the body were attached to the frame.

I'm not saying the top has to be bolted down..

As part of the wrap-up for the FI, I put the heater back in, with some louvers to keep the big chunks out.


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Old 03-29-2012, 04:34 PM   #134 (permalink)
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I do need to order another set the next time I'm buying stuff from Jegs - it's a tight fit with a 7/16" deep 12pt socket, and by the time it's really in there, there isn't much bite and it's easy to round 'em off.

I would recommend either a slightly larger counter-bore, or maybe one or two washers to shim it out.

The nuts are JUST the right diameter and it took a little effort to get them to begin to seat beneath the face of the cover.

Tom just get a Snap On socket they have a thiner wall, Air O Plane mechanics all have to have these just for that reason.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:49 AM   #135 (permalink)
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Updated glamor shot :lol:



It runs.

I replaced the bad ignition module ($40) and I can get a good time with the light.

Initial timing is a bit too aggressive when cold, I think - it snaps and pops, but once running and warm, smooths out and runs well.

Well, runs well, sitting on jack stands in neutral.

I had to build a new ALDL cable - old one stopped working, but now I can see data.

I also prepped an ECM for the Ostrich, so I can begin doing tuning sessions once I can drive it.

On Saturday, I had a lean spot when i would snap the throttle - I assume it was low on fuel, since I tried to drain the tank before I pulled it from Tigger and swapped it in, so I put some gas in.

Unfortunately, most of the gas hit the floor.

Sunday I tightened the worm clamps around the filler hose, and seem to have stopped the flow of fuel onto the floor. Whew. otherwise, it was going to be a chore to try to straighten out the filler neck on the tank - it's been squished into a more D shape.

So, I can get fuel in, and it runs.

It didn't, however, START. I did trace back and found the start wire - it was cut - and wired it in. For reference, on a 1979, there is a bulkhead connector on the driver's side outside, which is opposite the fuse panel.

Remove it, and the second row of pins is for the start circuit, and one pin is hot at RUN, the other not hot. It becomes hot when you switch the key to START.

Traced that wire back and got it hooked up, but still not start!

I had 12V, until I hooked it to the solenoid and then I got 2-3V.

I suspected a bad switch, so $13 later and a bunch of cussing, I had the ignition switch replaced with.. no improvement.

It was then I noticed the ker-chunk of a relay taking place.

I suspect this Scout was an automatic at some point, and this is part of the neutral safety switch.

I need to track down the best way to bypass it, but for now..



The relay was up inside the dash on the right side of the column. I removed it, and was able to just jumper this 3-pin connector and all is well, and I can start it with the key switch now (still need a key though).

Not only that, but it actually cranks, the fuel fires, and it lights off.

Also changed out the alternator and bracket for the AC mount and the CS144.



Looks like the "alt-only" belts are either just right, or just a tad long when you put the big case CS144 under the AC mount.

I need to grab a different York - the one I had been using is from a Jeep, and won't let me run dual alt belts. I have a couple of IH issue compressors which move the front pulley forward more beyond the dual alt belts.

I still need to make up the 2/0 charge wire from the alternator to the solenoid.

Then more tidying.

I don't know if the p/s pump has gone bad, or if it's just an air bleed issue (I need to research bleeding) - it acts like it wants more fluid, then pukes it out when I turn it off. Otherwise, it turns lock to lock just fine.

In the alternator pic, you can also see the 1.5" tube welded to the U-bolt plate, to lower the bump stop. I have around 2" of up-travel at-rest. The shocks limit the up-travel at this point, and I'm not in the mood to rework the shock mounts.

Still plenty to do, but getting it running, steering, and bump-stopped is huge. Just getting it running makes me excited at the possibility of driving it. This was my first customize-it-yourself fuel injection harness. My last two FI conversions didn't go this smoothly, so I'm stoked.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:43 PM   #136 (permalink)
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Tom,
Since you are running a saginaw ps pump and res they make an extension for the res housing that will take care of that.
Or you can just cut the top off of the res and use a piece of rubber hose designed to withstand ps fluid and extend it yourself. I think it is easier to buy the kit and not much more expensive. Oh, and quadruple check your bleed first.

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Old 04-07-2012, 09:29 PM   #137 (permalink)
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Tom,
Since you are running a saginaw ps pump and res they make an extension for the res housing that will take care of that.
Or you can just cut the top off of the res and use a piece of rubber hose designed to withstand ps fluid and extend it yourself. I think it is easier to buy the kit and not much more expensive. Oh, and quadruple check your bleed first.
I have seen the remote res conversions and the hose trick , but where can you get the extension?
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:49 AM   #138 (permalink)
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I'm curious, too, Blair.. though not that curious now.




Turns out, 1.5" Sch40 is a good match.

I put the 1/4 NPT plug in place in case I want to add more capacity with a reservoir.

I think part of my issue is the dual coolers I installed effectively raised the highest point in the system.

So I extended the filler.

I also found that P/S fluid smokes a good bit when welding, but a lot less flame than, say, oil rags laying on the floor under the Scout, or an upside down diff cover with 90wt residue in the same general area.

I may do another reservoir off-the-Scout since I have a few pinholes I can't really address (clamping your hand over the filler and forcing the smoke to exit elsewhere reveals your pin holes) - I put some Right Stuff around it, and we'll see..

In other news, the big CS144 fits and uses the "non-AC" belts just fine now that I extended the slot in the tensioner a bit (which was a non-factory tensioner to begin with).

I got to use the mill for the first time.





My lashup was less than rigid, and had plenty of chatter, but since I was just slotting the existing slot further, and really didn't care about the overall precision, I went with it.

I cleaned the shop a bit yesterday, and mocked up the compressor plumbing a bit more.



I think I can put the pop-off at a T at the head, put another T along the horizontal run to peel off to the old LPG line (visible just next to the switch) to the rear of the Scout, then another T at the end of the compressor to mount the switch on the compressor, with the other side angling forward with a hose to the core support, where I can mount a disconnect behind the headlight.

That should do until I rework the bumpers for air tanks and such..

I need to pick up more fittings.
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:19 PM   #139 (permalink)
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FYI, Right Stuff != RTV and further, not good enough to stop the leaks in my extension.

After piddling away an hour or two trying to remove all of the Right Stuff with a wire wheel and the sand blaster, I did what I should have done, and stripped another pump, cut the top off the first and re-welded it to the new pump, after cleaning it up.

I was then able to move the pump around and get to all of the spots and do a better job welding.

Once I finish painting it and get some time in the shop again, I'll re-assemble the p/s pump and re-install and see if I succeeded this time.

I had never disassembled a pump before.. not too bad, really.
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:30 PM   #140 (permalink)
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I kinda hate you right now. You had 2 other Scouts, and now, you have one that I would pimp...

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Old 04-18-2012, 11:17 AM   #141 (permalink)
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I kinda hate you right now. You had 2 other Scouts, and now, you have one that I would pimp...

SWS
Sadly, one has been crushed... not sure when I'll finish stripping out the other.

Starting to get excited about getting the new racer going once I get this thing wrapped up..


Minor progress. I've been cleaning up some of the mess, and was so bold as to think it was OK to put the tires back on.




The p/s pump seems to be leaking a little at the HP fitting. It also feels "weak" and slow. I'm not sure if a) I burned up the pump running it dry (seems I was too excited to have the FI running to remember the pump was dry) or b) the addition of two coolers has done something to impede the flow.

I don't remember the steering being "this" slow/unresponsive before I tore it all apart.

I have another new pump I can install, but for now I've been working to finish up the engine bay work so I can get the grille re-installed and the turn signals mounted and wired.

Already getting excited for summer..



Got a little work to do on the windshield channel..
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:43 PM   #142 (permalink)
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I have seen the remote res conversions and the hose trick , but where can you get the extension?
Sorry I've been MIA for awhile.

I saw the extension here on P4x4 years ago, but can't find it now. Tom, do you think maybe you went a little too light on that extension? I think you should have ponied up for some sch. 80.

Exhaust tubing works for extending it, or just buy a stock car remote res. Or back to the hose extension. Use good clamps if you do hose, and/or put a lip on the tubes.
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:19 PM   #143 (permalink)
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Got some time to wrench this weekend.. and finished enough tasks and cleared enough crap out of the way that I was able to pull it outside and clean the bay.



Drove it across my draining ditch - I put too much gear lube in the 60, at least, I think that's why it was running out of the downhill axle tube..



I need to shim the bump stop a little bit more. It's touching, but the shock is the bump stop, not the bump-stop, so another 1/4" or maybe 1/2" of shim on top of the U-bolt plate is needed.



I didn't measure the draglink clearance - there's enough room, but not a LOT more, so even if I relocated the shock mounts to gain a little more uptravel, I can't do much more.

The draglink, unlike the old tie-rod, does clear the pan just fine.



CS144 "140amp" (aka 200!) alternator and compressor.



The old LPG line needs attached to the fitting coming off the "rear" of the compressor to bring air to the rear bumper. The other hydraulic line runs to the core support, where I need to put a quick-disconnect.




Two brackets clamp the piping to the compressor body, sitting on top of the "circular hump" while holding them tight to the compressor body and down onto that hump. This keeps the weight off of the brass flare adapter on the output.

I need to do something for an input still.

Extended p/s reservoir mark-1.


Pump is shot. It's very difficult to steer, and requires me to be moving - too hard to safely drive beyond my field. I probably cooked it when I first fired the fuel injection, and was too excited that the darn thing actually ran that I forgot the p/s reservoir was empty.

I've made a mark-2 reservoir with a taller neck and a "blister" off the side for additional capacity. I need to change out the pump and reservoir and see how it does..

Fuel pump is currently outside the frame, but once I rework the exhaust, it'll get flipped.


Fuel pump wire needs tidied up still.


The rear main wasn't RUNNING oil, but a pretty steady drip. No idea if it will seal up all by itself or not, but I'm giving a lot of thought to R&Ring the rear main.

Valve covers look dry, as does the valley.. the oil is coming from inside the bellhousing area.. so it's either the rear main, or something worse like an oil gallery or the cam plate.

I got one battery mounted in a box and need to do the other. I need to R&R the pump, tidy up the fuel pump wiring, and then grind and notch the seat-belt down-legs for the rear of the cage some more to move 'em back more so I can move the seat back as far as I can manage for leg room.. that's the near-term list at the moment.
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:31 AM   #144 (permalink)
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Sweet progress Isn't there a seal in that 60? Over full or not, it should not leak. just sayin
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:17 PM   #145 (permalink)
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Sweet progress Isn't there a seal in that 60? Over full or not, it should not leak. just sayin
I don't know if the seal wasn't installed, wasn't replaced, or is just bad. I need to take it outside and try again to confirm - it looks like I'll be tearing the front axle down soon, so it would be a good time to do it - not that I want to pull and clean the diff cover.

..but I UPS should be dropping off some of the new Yukon HD 35sp Dana 60 hubs, and they just wouldn't go right without the matching 35sp alloy shafts..

70 hour work weeks have kept me from the shop.. but I had a little time over the weekend.

The passenger side of the C hoop is all-but-done.



The plate extends "out" a bit and has a coil-over mount incorporated. I was thinking I would run some of my old 7100 RR shocks, but I may need to get some 7100 schrader valve versions instead - it looks like it'll be difficult to install the shock and get the reservoir in place without assembling it on the vehicle.

I drilled the floor to mount the seat, but need to bolt it in place. The seat was narrowed, and the seat mounts "flipped/reversed" side for side, so instead of having the feet "outside" they're inside, so it clears the wheel tubs. The seat is about 1/2" back from stock, which puts the seat mounts behind the angle-steel that sits on the "step" for the B-hoop.

The down-leg on the C-hoop had to angle back to somewhat match the seat back angle. The seat will still fold and tumble.

I need to drill the down-tube and sleeve for the 3pt seat belt, and then this side is done.

I need to cut the plates for the driver's side and weld it up and maybe I can call it done enough.

The bushing is because this ties the cage to the frame, and elsewhere it's tied to the body. I wanted a little cushion to avoid stress cracks.

I need to get the C hoop done so I can put the top back down and consider going for a drive one of these days so I can tune the FI.

I have the JK bikini to install, but also picked up a used Fastrack now, which means the JK top isn't that important.
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:55 AM   #146 (permalink)
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Tom I paid a shop to install the Detroit, new gear set and rebuild the kingpins, the cost was over twenty five hundred bucks with the gear set, Detroit and master install kit. Remember the front axle has a new set of 4:88s, new locking hubs, and was rebuilt, if there is a leak that is coming from the inner seals, I will have the shop stand behind there work. I have seen axles leak when they are WAY over serviced, so I would set the oil level where it should be and if it is leaking after that we can look at getting it repaired on there dime. They did install a new stub shaft after they confirmed the line lock works good
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:03 AM   #147 (permalink)
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Love this build.
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:33 AM   #148 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JetFxr View Post
Tom I paid a shop to install the Detroit, new gear set and rebuild the kingpins, the cost was over twenty five hundred bucks with the gear set, Detroit and master install kit. Remember the front axle has a new set of 4:88s, new locking hubs, and was rebuilt, if there is a leak that is coming from the inner seals, I will have the shop stand behind there work. I have seen axles leak when they are WAY over serviced, so I would set the oil level where it should be and if it is leaking after that we can look at getting it repaired on there dime. They did install a new stub shaft after they confirmed the line lock works good
I thought it was 4.56s.. 4.88s would be better. I did remember all of that. I also know sometimes they still leak.

It may have been overfull. The GLO cover has a very high fill hole - but I filled according to spec, not the fill hole. I forget how many pints it calls for, but whatever that was, is what I installed.

I'll drive through my ditch again and see if gear oil will run out.

If I do pull the diff cover off again, I think I'm going to mark it, drill, and tap for a NPT plug at the right height.

I did notice the fancy new stub shaft. I will probably wheel it once or twice with the current shafts. That will let me confirm is the seal needs replaced or not, since it would be much easier to do that when I already have the shafts out for the alloy upgrade.

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Love this build.
Thanks.

I just want to drive the thing.. and so do my girls.




I forgot to mention I did get a second power steering pump in place, with a taller and expanded filler neck again.



So far so good.

I had to test it, of course.



The FI still needs tuned - it runs quite poor when cold, but better warmed up. I have done zero tuning yet, but the laptop is in the rig and the Ostrich is installed..
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:53 AM   #149 (permalink)
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Looks like some good progress.. I love the first picture of your girl standing on the tire being very interested. My daughter is bugging the crap outa me about getting mine done.
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:00 AM   #150 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tsm1mt View Post
If I do pull the diff cover off again, I think I'm going to mark it, drill, and tap for a NPT plug at the right height.
Differential fluid capacity - 6 pints (3.4 liters) 80w90 hypoid gear lube
From Billavista tech page

That's what I do vs fill to the fill plug which is on top of the cover. But you could add 6 pints and then find the level and drill a small hole for service checking. I might even do that as currently service checking is drain and fill.
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Last edited by R290; 06-21-2012 at 11:01 AM.
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