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Old 07-10-2013, 04:01 PM   #201 (permalink)
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I really like how low it sits.
That's what I thought four years ago when I started the truck, use a sawsall for the lift and have a very stable off road Scout. The rear Tubs worked out great front not so much but then again everyone needs to own there design, Tom is going all out to insure he gets years of service out of the Snow Scout, at the rate he is building he will have his daughter wheeling a very nice Scout.
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:24 AM   #202 (permalink)
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My 78 Terra is SOA on Dodge 60s +4" springs 38x14.5 full width. Overall its pretty darn high but rides good. If I narrowed it I think I'd have issues for sure. I think my next build is going to go this route.
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:49 PM   #203 (permalink)
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Update:

I wheeled.

I even had to engage 4wd, but more because the Cepeks are crappy mud tires on sloppy hill climbs.



Another common Scout sight. I even made it home.



Impressions later..
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:29 PM   #204 (permalink)
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I have to relearn the sides of the Scout - I kept climbing tree stumps I didn't mean to from hugging the passenger side of the road too closely... darn full width.

I think I need more shock. Driving down the Interstate occasionally it will start to "wobble" and the "roll steer" makes it sort of dance around in a circle until it settles back down.

I have the stock anti-sway bar to reinstall still - that might help, but more shock might do it, too.

The tires half out the body makes for a muddy mess.

Rear bump stops need lowered a little more.

Either I need to tune the FI a little better, or it has "too much" cam in this engine, because seems too easy to stall at low RPM. I'm used to driving the Scout "at stall" speeds when going over a difficult area. With the 3-1 Tera Low that shouldn't be as necessary, but when cruising in high range, there are times when I want to just crest a hill in 2nd gear and then tap the throttle to finish clearing it - and it quits.

The ram assist steering turns easily, if not as quickly as I'd like.

I need to get the "seat frame" built so Michelle can be strapped in with the 5pts so she'll stop trying to save her back by fighting the Scout.

The FI computer doesn't stay put on the floor - I need to mount it sooner than later.

I still have what feels like wheel hop. If I take off in 1st gear, all is well. Take off in 2nd, and more of often than not it shudders and jumps like spring wrap.

Tom Woods supplied the ground-for-clearance front 1310 CV driveshaft, worked fine.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:29 AM   #205 (permalink)
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OK, so maybe the shocks are OK.. and I can blame it all on the loose shackle bolts up front.

That'll also explain the "thunk" occasionally when turning at a stand still.

I suspect it was springs, but looked in the wrong places until I was staring at the Scout over the weekend and notices the front shackle bolts were loose.

Time to get the top-lock nuts installed.
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Old 12-27-2013, 05:37 PM   #206 (permalink)
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I've wheeled it once more since the last update.

I've cut the rear bumper off, capped the unfinished ends, and sunk a receiver hitch into the middle, then re-mounted.

1/4" wall tubing. Heavy.

Which might explain why I'm also changing the rear springs.

Looks like it has the older springs, which are nice for a low SOA but they also tend to fatigue and break (BTDT) and both springs have a weak spot - passenger was to the rear, driver's is to the front.

The question now.. do I leave the overload in the replacement pack?

Do I take a leaf from the old pack and throw it into the new pack in place of the overload?

It sits "flat" at rest right now, with ~3" of up-travel.

Here is the driver's side, showing the third leaf digging into the second. Also, that it is flat.



Replacement pack


Also re-doing the rear shocks while I have it apart. This started because the lower shock mount broke, so I patched it up, but then found the U-bolt plate bent, so the U-bolt plate is being replaced, lower shock mount moved, and shocks traded out.

I changed out the front shocks a few months ago for short-body RR 10" stroke (IIRC) 7100s, but haven't driven it yet.
Rears will be 14" RR 7100 take-offs from Little Devil.

Might get this spring pack changed out this weekend, but I'm not certain which way to go..

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Old 12-28-2013, 10:23 PM   #207 (permalink)
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For now, I've opted to leave the overload in and see how it goes.





You can see the free height is about the same - if you don't count the extra "lift" from the overload spring.

Also note that the new pack has longer leaves, while the old pack has shorter leaves, leaving the main leaf unsupported for a longer span.

I'm hoping this means longer life for the new pack.

Here's something I wanted to do on the front when the original pack was installed and the leaves splaying out.
2.5" receiver tubing, which I had to run through the mill to knock down the corners.




It sits over the spring and keeps the leaves from fanning out sideways, should the clamps fail to do that (new pack has clamps, also a bonus)



My only slight concern is since I used some scraps, I could've benefited from making them slightly longer. They are as long as the perch, but a little short of the U-bolt plate.







(New lower shock mount is welded on in the right of the last picture, too)

Waiting for the paint to dry..
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:10 PM   #208 (permalink)
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Skipped the U-shim, and skipped throwing some 1/4" flat on either side of the springs, too.




Flat, on the overload, at rest.

So I took it outside to the RTI ramp.

Not much danger in hitting the body work..



The spring did go negative a little, but there's another two fingers of up-travel left before the bump stop, and similar stroke left on the shock - that's good.


Though the shock is a wee-bit close to the tire.



I think the shock itself will be OK, even when aired down - and at worse, the tire can scuff the smooth body shock.

I will need to relocate the reservoir, however. The big difference between the shock and the reservoir - the shock body stays put, but the reservoir when mounted to the body can flop around a bit as the shock rocks on the heim joints, either smacking the reservoir into the body, or swinging it into the tire.

I think it'll go straight up, into the cavity between the inner and outer quarter panel, which is otherwise unused space.

Worse case, I'll have to cut the lower mount off and move it in - and maybe I'll start there when I do the driver's side, just in case. Of course, that will make the shocks slightly "longer" at full bump.

I should've aired down the tires while on the ramp - maybe I'll do that tomorrow in the daylight again.

At the other end, I hadn't put it on the ramp since replacing the front shocks..



I think I'd be hard pressed to get the shock length and bump stop this "right" again if I tried.



A little more shock shaft showing would be ideal, but it is onto the bump stop here, and just at full compression on the shock, while twisted up on the RTI ramp.

There isn't a lot of uptravel on either end of this rig - note where the O-ring is on the passenger front - that's ride height.



And a shot of the CV yoke with the passenger front drooped out - I think this is is the side of the yoke I clearanced more. I need to pull the front driveshaft out and carve on the yoke a little more.



I will also pull the crossmember when I do that and expand my slot and clean it up - this was added after I had everything buttoned up and decided I needed a more convenient method of pulling the front driveshaft. This slot works, but it needs a) cleaned up and b) to be a little bigger to make the job less tedious.

The original driveshaft bound at ride height. Tom Wood's clearanced this CV for me, and I carved on the yoke a bit, but got tired and quit before I should have.
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Old 12-29-2013, 10:18 PM   #209 (permalink)
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At least your out there working on it in the middle of the winter.

I use a 1/4 ratchet with a 1/2" socket and rotate the driveline to get to each nut.

Take a unibit and drill a nice round hole
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Old 12-30-2013, 10:19 AM   #210 (permalink)
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At least your out there working on it in the middle of the winter.

I use a 1/4 ratchet with a 1/2" socket and rotate the driveline to get to each nut.

Take a unibit and drill a nice round hole
It was 40-deg outside on Friday. I did front brakes on the '85 Hilux in the driveway. It was nice.

But the rest of the time, I'm in the heated shop. The 100k BTU heater (or was it 200?) heats the <1000sq ft shop just fine. Even if you leave the door open.

First time I've spent any significant time in the shop in months.

I have the 1/4 drive 1/2" wobble socket for doing front driveshafts on a Scout II. Works well with an air-ratchet, too.

I haven't figured out the right contortions to make it work with the 10-spline 1310 CV yoke though.

Even when I use the correct 7/16" wobble socket.

Ride seemed a bit firm going around to the RTI ramp, but I could have imagined all of that.

I suppose I'll throw the other pack in with overload and then try it out for a bit before I try mixing and matching packs.
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Old 01-03-2014, 06:49 PM   #211 (permalink)
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OK, I'm lazy.

And I made the shock boxes bigger than they needed to be.

So I opened them up to tuck the reservoirs in place.




Then spent a day (when I wasn't interrupting "vacation" for work) getting more-legal with a license plate light.

I bought this little LED unit for the trailer (and for the Scout - I bought two).



I pulled the bent license plate bracket from Tigger's old tailgate (the one I twisted like a corkscrew) and then customized it for the LED.

The factory light comes down from the wrong spot, so I added a hole.



The three washers on either side were to shim it out and away from the "bend" in the bracket, but also served to let the license plate tuck up - it all just fits, but my UFWDA license plate bracket doesn't fit.

(See how the light sits OVER the license plate?)



Back out the ramp during daylight.



I flattened the RR tire and gave it a few shoves, and I think I'm good.

I did mount the driver's rear shock inboard an inch more than the passenger side was done.

Someday, if I change tires/backspacing, I may cut the passenger side off and move it inboard a little more.



Oh, and with my penchant for wanting to drive sideways around my "block" when I drive around to the ramp.. I think my "wheel hop" problem is tire induced. I didn't notice it when I drove to the RTI ramp. But after I flattened the tire on the ramp, I couldn't drive away from the ramp by starting in 2nd gear - I think it is the tire wrap-up that makes it hop really bad.

The ladder bar takes care of it if the tires have air in them - and with the leaking beadlocks, they are often too-low.

With the heater working now, I'm running out of really-want-to-fixes and moving down the list.

Enough that I put air in the tires to drive it to work today.

Unfortunately, found that the rear driveshaft U-joint wasn't seated right, then discovered that's because some needles were cockeyed and shot.

So... we're not getting that "cold" spell the East Coast is getting, it's a balmy 25 right now.

It was 50 this morning when I took the 2wd Hilux to town instead.

Audrey and I hit OReilly's on the way home, slipping and sliding on the ice (wet snow for a change, usually we get powder) to get a new U-joint.

Now my "list" is looking like:
Mount ECU
Install stereo
Wire OBA
Wire auxiliary power for the kids

Then at some point build the new seat mount for the passenger seat that'll tilt and allow Michelle to run the 5pt belts to keep her back in place.

Oh, and Santa just delivered a pair of Corbeau seat heaters I need to install.

All of which goes on hold as soon as I find out the next wheelin' trip..
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Old 01-05-2014, 09:36 PM   #212 (permalink)
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I wheeled.




Thermostat may be too low for Montana - stayed cool at 175deg all day, but didn't make much heat in the cab on a sub-zero day.

Related, the heater core seems bad - not too hot, smelled a little sweet, and fogged the windows.

Fun Countries are no TSL.

3.5 psi and they seemed to do better. Just not great.

Anyone have experience taking the grooving iron to 'em? That's coming soon..

Otherwise, I came, I wheeled, I didn't break anything.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:32 AM   #213 (permalink)
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I wheeled.

Otherwise, I came, I wheeled, I didn't break anything.
Sometimes that happens...Cherish it.
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:03 PM   #214 (permalink)
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Anyone have experience taking the grooving iron to 'em? That's coming soon..

Otherwise, I came, I wheeled, I didn't break anything.
I grooved my tsls after a not so good snow wheelin trip.(they were pretty low on tread.)Went wheelin the next weekend and was a very noticeable difference.My .02
Scout looks good.
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Old 01-12-2014, 07:46 PM   #215 (permalink)
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I grooved my tsls after a not so good snow wheelin trip.(they were pretty low on tread.)Went wheelin the next weekend and was a very noticeable difference.My .02
Scout looks good.
Thanks.

I grooved my bald 36x12.50 TSLs when I bought them - they were at the wear bars, so I added new life. I thought they worked great.

I'm hoping I can "fix" the Fun Countries with the groover.

Meanwhile, I was going to drive it on Saturday only to pull a valve stem out, so I had to learn how to tear down the 2-piece wheels.



However, that leaves the Scout on only three tires since I have no spare.

So I thought maybe i could fix the tires-need-grooved problem and the Scout-on-three-tires problem at the same time.








Surprisingly, they don't rub as much as I thought.





The front axle should go forward another inch, and in the rear the corner of the wheel tub has to go and a little more trimming and I think it'd go just fine.

And my mud-flaps are too narrow now..




I'll get a new valve stem in this week and put the 16 back together and put the 38s back on - and warm up the iron.

I'd have to break down the 44s and get them onto my H1s before I could do more than run to the corner store like i did today - but I kinda missed the "preparing for take-off' TSL sound that the Cepeks don't make..
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Old 01-12-2014, 08:01 PM   #216 (permalink)
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I think if you widened the existing grooves in the centers and then added a thin groove to the outside lugs those tires would really wake up. Alternatively you could add grooves to the bigger lugs in the center. They might wear really quick then, though.
For snow and ice you could also sipe them on top of the grooving.

Man, those TSLs are huge compared to the 38s.
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Old 01-12-2014, 08:26 PM   #217 (permalink)
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I think if you widened the existing grooves in the centers and then added a thin groove to the outside lugs those tires would really wake up. Alternatively you could add grooves to the bigger lugs in the center. They might wear really quick then, though.
For snow and ice you could also sipe them on top of the grooving.
You're probably right - widen the existing grooves.

I was toying with the idea of adding an extra groove on every other lug, and siping the remainder.

Now to ponder if another groove is better or worse than just widening the existing groove..
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:17 AM   #218 (permalink)
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You're probably right - widen the existing grooves.

Now to ponder if another groove is better or worse than just widening the existing groove..
Widen the existing groove. If you add an entirely additional groove then I feel you will be adding to many "narrow" lugs that will chunk out during the dry season.

Just a thought...
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:12 AM   #219 (permalink)
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Widen the existing groove. If you add an entirely additional groove then I feel you will be adding to many "narrow" lugs that will chunk out during the dry season.

Just a thought...
Good point.

Now, every groove, or every other groove? Hmm.

If I do every other groove (the straight-through grooves) I can always groove the other later.

Hard to add the rubber back.

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Old 01-26-2014, 12:44 PM   #220 (permalink)
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Groovy

I didn't cut full depth, so there's a stagger in the groove. Partly so I can re-groove later, partly because the tread wear isn't consistent.

I opened up every other void and made it larger. I cut the "backside" of the void, not the front (biting edge).




Also a notch into every other outer lug.

No siping yet.

Uncut left, cut right.



I've also added some beef to the passenger rear upper shock mount - it bent the top around. This is one of the reasons the "shock boxes" have removable covers - I pulled the top plates off, straightened things out, welded a gusset, and done.

Still need to do the driver's side - it hasn't been hurt yet, but let's fix it before it's broke.

I need an "AM radio mounting plate" for the dash, or to fabricate one.

The aftermarket 1DIN stereos are a close fit, but I've had better luck if I take the old "shaft radio" mounting sleeve, cut the shaft holes off, and then affix the DIN sleeve to that.
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Old 01-26-2014, 01:35 PM   #221 (permalink)
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I always thought Fun Countrys were one of the best snow tires going as delivered. I guess time marches on weather I know it or not Im glad to see that at least someone is getting some shit done, I think that thing would look a lot better with a fiberglass hood
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Old 01-26-2014, 05:44 PM   #222 (permalink)
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I always thought Fun Countrys were one of the best snow tires going as delivered. I guess time marches on weather I know it or not Im glad to see that at least someone is getting some shit done, I think that thing would look a lot better with a fiberglass hood
Yeah, I always heard they were awesome snow tires, too.. but they didn't seem to live up to the hype.

I have a friend with experience with 44 FCs but I haven't found any pictures of them post-grooving. He has since gone to 49" Iroks..

As to the FG hood - it seems to be MIA. Robert says he dropped it by, but I checked my hood supplies and a magnet seemed to stick to all of them.

I'll have to check again.. but the 'glass was intended for the racer, which should get some overdue TLC once I "finish" (HAH) this Snow Scout and get some wheeling in..
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Old 01-27-2014, 05:10 PM   #223 (permalink)
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Nice conservative grooving. I groove the front side to get a new biting edge when I do mine.
One issue with the FCs on your rig is relative size/weight. Wayd can walk away from me most days on 33s because he weighs ~3000 while I'm on 35s with 5k. SSS weighs 7k? You need a lot of tire to support that much weight. I bet if I put those FCs on the explorer it would rock. Except for the anemic power, of course.
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:22 PM   #224 (permalink)
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I wheeled.




Thermostat may be too low for Montana - stayed cool at 175deg all day, but didn't make much heat in the cab on a sub-zero day.

Related, the heater core seems bad - not too hot, smelled a little sweet, and fogged the windows.

Fun Countries are no TSL.

3.5 psi and they seemed to do better. Just not great.


Anyone have experience taking the grooving iron to 'em? That's coming soon..


Otherwise, I came, I wheeled, I didn't break anything.


This is just how I had in visioned the Snow Scout to look like, and with the tons and Detroit lockers you should just beat it like a rented mule.

Glad to see you enjoying it.
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:42 AM   #225 (permalink)
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I had an old set of 35" Rough Terrain? Schwab tires that I traded Rob Currier for on my Runner several years ago. I went for a lot of lateral grooving like you did. Worked great going forward, but didn't do so well sidehilling. I'd think about a radial groove on your remaining uncut outer lugs to give you a bit more sidehill bite.

I've got 3 30%-ish 38" TSL's if you're interested in some for spares or grooving experimentation. I just scored another half-dozen 36" Iroks, so I will likely NEVER use the 38's.
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