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Old 12-11-2009, 09:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Benchslap

More specs. More pics.

I love 80's
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Old 12-11-2009, 10:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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More specs. More pics.
Sure I can tell you about my money pit. It was originally my great-grandfathers and has been passed down over the years. They installed a Koeing PTO winch on her in 1969 to pull the sucker rods on the water well when they needed to service the pump. Other than that it was hauled behind the tractor to the field so at night they could get back home. I got it when I was 15 so that I could learn how cars work. She had 14,000 miles (sat up for the last 25+ years inside a barn), had the original line ticket, record of every oil change, etc...). As far as original parts the engine was the 4-152 along with 4.27 gears and a posi front and rear. The line ticket even said heavy duty cooling. Even today she only has 19,000 miles.

Well afew years ago I decided to do a frame off restoration on her and this is one of the few pics I have of her from then.



Just as a heads up to anyone who thinks it would be cool to do a restoration....DON'T. I was 17 at the time and maybe thats why it took me 2 years to finish but still think it out before you tear her down. Nuff said.

Here are some wheeling pics of her fully stock except for a shackle lift.

Things were going good at first.





And then the first scratch...





So I got alittle hot headed and decided to try a trail I shouldn't have.





The hop up at the bottom of the pic kept causing the engine to stall and with a PTO winch and my brakes gone at this point my solution was WFO.



And you get dumbass of the year award...She pitched hard left when I hit the bump and rested against the wall. Stalled motor, stuck, PTO winch = go go high lift.



God I hate myself sometimes...

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Old 12-11-2009, 10:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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And the damage which was my gateway to no return.



So much for the perfect body. Yes I know I could redo it but hell I had to paint her 3 times just to learn how to keep from running the paint. I guess I'm being a little girl but I just don't want to do anymore body work.



Spring under sucks.



One more wheeling picture I missed.



I also blew one of my rear axle seals and lost enough gear oil to cause the bearing on the pinion closest to the yoke to overheat on the way home. The next day I drove her to my friends shop to fix the damage and spun the race. At that point I needed new u-bolts, a rear axle, new brake master cylinder, and clutch. I figured I could fix a limping horse or just bite the bullet, beg the wife, sell my R6 and swap in a new drive train.

This was probably more than you cared to know but I figure I might as well put a story behind the pics.

Last edited by Benchslap; 12-12-2009 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 12-11-2009, 11:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Here is how she stands today. SBC 350 with extreme energy cam (if you really want to know I can dig up the card), TH-350 with shift kit and B&M Mega Shifter, NP-205, 14 bolt open differential rear with disc brakes and a Dana 60 kingpin front axle with 4.10 gears and a lincoln locker. The lift is a SOA with a 1.5" shackle lift and stock wheelbase. I also built a 6 point roll cage (Stole idea from DandC... Gotta give credit where it is due), suspension seats with 5 point latch and link harnesses, HMMWV wheels and tires, high steer and a 9k electric winch (take that stalled engine). The other little things I can think of are that I swapped to an alternator, aluminum dual pass radiator, electric cooling fan, electric windshield wipers, and wired my low beams to be on when my hi beams are. If I had my priorities straight I would have put in cup holders by now but I guess I got alittle side tracked.





My tire carrier is kinda neat. It can be down like this when I want the hard top on or it can pivot up to look like a baja truck.



Here is a shot of the heim joint that is my pivot point. It is just a T bar and in the bottom left and right of the picture you can see where it bolts to the tabs welded to the cage. There is another set of tabs welded to the cage so that the tire will ride parallel to the rear bars.



In this pic you can see where the upper tabs are located.



I just realized I don't have a picture with it up top. I will post that once I get a chance to get it out of the garage.

Here are some interior pics.





This was the only notch I had to make for the engine to fit. It was for the rear of the driver side header. It is worth mentioning that I had to notch part of the tunnel to fit the 205 but the seats cover it fairly well.


Last edited by Benchslap; 12-14-2009 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 12-11-2009, 11:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Here are some pics of under the hood. The carburetor is a Holley Truck Avenger 670 cfm and I had to use points so that I didn't have to notch the firewall for the distributor. The brake booster is out of a mid 80's chevy blazer and the brake master cylinder is out of a 77 Cadillac Eldorado. I love lazy engineers. The disc swap on the rear used rotors and calipers off of a Dana 44 front end as I'm sure 99% of anyone who has made it this far already knows. The setup works 300 time better than the Dana 27's with drums even with the front bypassing back into the reservoir. Once I get the master cylinder swapped out for a new one I am guessing this system will put me through the windshield.





I made the high steer arm out of 3/4" x 4" strap and torched the arm to twist it so that my heim joint wouldn't bind. The heims are 3/4" chromoly Teflon lined and the drag link is 1" tube. Yes it is smaller than I wanted but it was free and I figured I could replace it once I bend it. (TECH TIP: The I.D. for this tube is 13/16", if my memory serves me, which is the correct size for a 3/4" tap. No rod ends are needed, just tap and go. You could also use this if you use 1.5" .25 wall for a tie rod and you don't have a lathe and don't want to blow $10-15 on rod ends. Just a thought so take it with a grain of salt... or is it sand?)



Here is a shot of the underside. The exhaust has original Flowmasters and is dual all the way out. Definitely not the best shock mounting in the world but when you have worked through the night it seems like a brilliant idea.



Man... This little writeup has taken me an hour and a half. Hats off to you guys with the build threads, I had no idea how much time you had in them. I doubt this thread belongs here except for a few parts if that but I will leave it to y'all. I guess if y'all want it gone complain for it to get moved or I'll just delete it with enough ranting and raving.

Last edited by Benchslap; 12-12-2009 at 01:14 AM.
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Old 12-12-2009, 01:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Nice job on the Scout. Clean and simple. You might want to consider losing the lift blocks, tucking that exhaust up higher, and shaving the 14 bolt. You definitely have the right kind of sickness though so stick around.

Last edited by 472Scout; 12-12-2009 at 01:20 AM.
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Old 12-12-2009, 03:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I like it!

Where do you live in TX? Looks like Spring/Houston area?
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Last edited by guidolyons; 12-12-2009 at 03:09 AM.
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Old 12-12-2009, 06:49 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Nice job, looks great.
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Old 12-12-2009, 07:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Where do you live in TX? Looks like Spring/Houston area?
How in the world did you figure that one out? You had 2 cell phone pictures to go off of and you nailed it. You get creapy online guy of the year award!
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Old 12-12-2009, 08:16 AM   #10 (permalink)
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How in the world did you figure that one out? You had 2 cell phone pictures to go off of and you nailed it. You get creapy online guy of the year award!
It just goes to show, it's always some middle aged guy trolling for prey on the web...
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Old 12-12-2009, 08:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I like it!

Where do you live in TX? Looks like Spring/Houston area?
Hey man thanks for letting me know what you thought. I am curious if you know anyone local (just moved down here a few months ago) that can build a 1310 double cardan shaft capable of 30-35*. I have found acouple of shafts online for around $300-375 but I would rather buy local.

I figure someone will bring up highangle driveline so I will go ahead and say there shafts look awsome and I would like to buy one but after I called Jess I realized I was to poor to get their shaft along with a new front output shaft for the 205, one of their trick flanges, and a 1350 yoke.

Last edited by Benchslap; 12-12-2009 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Looks familiar... the PO did my engine swap & made a really crappy plate...
(can't find pix of my fix) Here is what it looked like when I got it...



And now..


Here is what I had to do on the PS to tuck the tranny/tcase:



Nice build by the way.
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:45 AM   #13 (permalink)
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This thread makes me wish I wouldn't gotten rid of my first Scout.

Rig looks good, keep it goin!
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:08 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Benchslap you sir are a nut, how could you distroy a frame off Scout 80 that way Great job I love the Scout and great newb posting. Welcome aboard. I really like the look of your truck and will enjoy watching the Scout grow as you use it more. Check out Rockscout here on the board thread Now and then really good tech for you, and another badass early Scout
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:55 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Nice Scout! Keep wheeling it!!
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Old 12-12-2009, 11:01 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Benchslap you sir are a nut, how could you distroy a frame off Scout 80 that way
Your right dude. Half of me wishes I had left her alone and just bought another tub to do this. But then again I have all of my original parts in a storage shed so that if I ever want I can put her back to original. Thanks for the tip on a good tech article.
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Old 12-12-2009, 11:55 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Dude I was jurking you around, look at some of my SSII posts, I bought it new is 79. It has been everything from addaleaf to coils. My only sadness is its so fucked up now I have to trailer most every where. Great truck enjoy it.
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Old 12-12-2009, 01:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Very nice work. Love it.
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Old 12-12-2009, 04:11 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Hey man thanks for letting me know what you thought. I am curious if you know anyone local (just moved down here a few months ago) that can build a 1310 double cardan shaft capable of 30-35*. I have found acouple of shafts online for around $300-375 but I would rather buy local.

I figure someone will bring up highangle driveline so I will go ahead and say there shafts look awsome and I would like to buy one but after I called Jess I realized I was to poor to get their shaft along with a new front output shaft for the 205, one of their trick flanges, and a 1350 yoke.
I'd be so happy with $350, Jess said well over double that (near a grand and even possibly over). I am running that kind of angle maxing out my CV. Probably won't last but I'll run it till it dies..
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Old 12-12-2009, 07:43 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting that up Benchslap.


Glad to have you around so the board doesn't get overrun with II's





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This was the only notch I had to make for the engine to fit. I was for the rear of the driver side header.

After seeing the 80's here, I think I overestimated how much I had to cut out


I had to heat/bend my stock clutch and brake pedals over 2 inches to make room for gas pedal clearance as well.
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Old 12-13-2009, 03:04 AM   #21 (permalink)
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How in the world did you figure that one out? You had 2 cell phone pictures to go off of and you nailed it. You get creapy online guy of the year award!
I was guessing East Texas, it looked similar to the terrain at Spring Offroad Park and some of the 'wheelin pics the Halogrinder posted.

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Hey man thanks for letting me know what you thought. I am curious if you know anyone local (just moved down here a few months ago) that can build a 1310 double cardan shaft capable of 30-35*. I have found a couple of shafts online for around $300-375 but I would rather buy local.

I figure someone will bring up highangle driveline so I will go ahead and say there shafts look awsome and I would like to buy one but after I called Jess I realized I was to poor to get their shaft along with a new front output shaft for the 205, one of their trick flanges, and a 1350 yoke.
I don't know of any driveshaft guys offhand, I cut down a front 'shaft from a F250 for my rear d-shaft, but I'm not sure what I'm going to do for my front shaft. It's going to be a long 2 piece.

Check with Halogrinder, he's local to the Spring/Houston area, and NickM is further south in Lake Jackson, they might know of local driveshaft guy.
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Old 12-14-2009, 03:26 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Well as I had mentioned earlier I have 2 packs of leaf springs off of a jet ski trailer that I inherited when I moved in. I am not sure on any of the specifications of the trailer (such as if it held one or two jet skis or even what type/size they were) but they are the same width as my springs and my front end is a little low so here we go.

Sorry for the crappy pictures. I am getting a camera for Christmas so they will be better before long.

Here is a shot to give you an idea of how they compare to the original springs. The second and forth leafs from the bottom are from the Scout and the other three are from the trailer.



And another angle.



I decided to put the middle sized one in (third from the bottom as shown in the first picture) and see what happened.

Shot before.



And after installed second from the bottom.



I still have to do the other side and wait 4 days for my brake master cylinder to come in but once I get her off of the stands I will post up some pictures.

In addition, I am using shackles off of my donor truck which from what I was told had a frame from a late 70's blazer (only needed the drive-train). The shackles are 4 in. long from centers and have a 7/16 in. bolt holes so they are ready to bolt in without any modifications. I stated earlier that I had a 1.5 in. shackle lift and now realize that was incorrect. I thought that they were longer than they are but they actually give around .75 in. lift (2.375 centers on my stock shackles). My bad.

The neat thing about them is that they have been pressed (as shown below). I am not sure if they were designed like this to keep them from rubbing the spring but I am going to use them in that fashion. Here is a pic of the outer side. You can also see the part number (3975202). I did a quick Google search (5 minutes) and was unable to find them but this should at least give you a direction if your interested.



And of the inner.



It is extruded around an 1/8 in. and here you can see how much space it leaves.



I have not been able to flex the suspension any since I put them on but they look like they will allow the spring to twist more than shackles made from strap metal. My only concern is with the spacing it may allow for the leafs to walk from side to side.

Last edited by Benchslap; 12-14-2009 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 12-14-2009, 03:54 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Well with having my truck down for the next few days I decided that I would go ahead and install my front shocks which have been long overdue. My buddy with a Heep put some new Old Man Emu shocks on because the ones that came with his lift were to stiff. Since I am sure that my Scout is a bit heavier and the fact that they were free, I figured why not.

The shocks are sized for a TJ with a 4 inch lift and have a 10 inch stroke. I was wanting some input on what angle you guys suggest to run them at. I am using the stock shock mount on the axle (Dana 60) and the upper mount is one that I threw together from what was laying around.

The angle in the picture below is what seems to work with the truck but if anyone knows of a better way let me know in the next day or two so that I can change it before I burn the upper mount in.

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Old 12-14-2009, 10:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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My shocks are mounted staight vertical inline with the axle and angle out from the frame to the axle nuckle but I am also using stock Chevy springs that are pretty much flat. Your steering box is in the way so you can't do this. The shock eyes are mounted so the bind will be front to back not side to side. I figured this would give me the most available wheel travel.

Mounts minus shocks:





Question to all: Does leaf spring shock mounting need to be at a 90* angle to the fixed frame spring mount as they do with 4 link coilover setups?
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Old 12-14-2009, 10:46 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Question to all: Does leaf spring shock mounting need to be at a 90* angle to the fixed frame spring mount as they do with 4 link coilover setups?
No and no. The more of a angle they are at the less effective they will be but that doesn't mean it's wrong. Typically coil over link setups aren't set at 90* either.
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