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So... You think you want to do a 3-link?

74K views 274 replies 50 participants last post by  1966Scout800 
#1 · (Edited)
Here's how I'm doing it. I did a rear 4 link 3 or 4 years ago and I have been accquiring the necessary parts for the build. I'm working with a 70 800 with a power lock Scout II front end and running 35's a Fuel injected 345 and a 727 auto.

The objective is a capable all around rig and probably sticking with 35's for a long long time. Here's the link to the rear build. http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52069&highlight=link

Here is the parts list...






I'll be using 2" 12" travel FOA coil overs withg dual spring, 14" - 350# under
10" - 225#.

The new axle is a D-44 RS from a 78 Ford. The long side is now the short side and the left side was retubed to stock Scout II length. Right now, the Short side is set up to run a EB short side which is 3.5" longer than a stock Scout.




The overall width is the same as the current axle because I am running 1-1/2" spacers. The reason I am doing this axle is the Scout II D-44 has about 2-1/2" of right tube and I don't have room for the brackets and keep the lower links paralell and under the frame so I don't loose turning radius.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
The brackets are primarily Ballistic radius arm and shock towers and Ruff Stuff tabs and Panhard mounts. I'm using Ballistic bushings on the axle and Balistic joints on the frame end.




The radius brackets do include shock mounts, but I wont be using these shock mounts. I wanted to keep the links under the frame, to keep all the turning radius and not go any wider track width.

I am also going to use either the top of the bracket or the joint for the axle side of the bumpstop. I am planning on 4" of compression max and upto 8" of extension for travel.

I will be using the left mount for the third link, with the frame end back on the lower link. The right lower link will have the same upper mount in case I want to run the second upper link for a 4 link. (not counting the panhard)

The lower shock mounts are the inner C brace style to put the lower shock mount as wide as I can. I haven't decided on the exact length of the lower links yet, But I am heading to the bottom of the frame just past the bottom of the bend.



Also what is yet to be determined, if I will have room for a CV front Drive shaft around the tranny with the diff moved a few inches to the center with the EB short side axle. If I can't clear the CV, my fall back is to shorten the short side back to the width of a stock Scout II axle shaft.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I have started the custom work by welding the frame end panhard mount and the shock towers to some 3" x 1/4" flat stock for frame reinforcement.






And now for the last pics of the day...




And the one that gives me a woodie...:D



More tomorrow, but don't expect results as fast as some people (rkscout) on this board:flipoff2:
 
#12 ·
Nice start Buck.

How are you planning on putting the axle side panhard bracket on, outside of the radius arm bracket? Are you going to be running high steering arms and a raised tie rod?

I'd also run a heim on the upper link "frame" end. Making the bracket on the link for the huge Balistic joint will be a ugly, and it'll potentially hit the frame.
 
#14 · (Edited)
The panhard bracket is the Ruff Stuff offset bracket. This will be on the front side of the drivers side. I don't have to worry about this bracket staying under the frame for turning clearance. I expect to have plenty of room without worring about the link bracket. If I run into not enough room (front to back) on the axle tube, I'll remove some of the shock mount portion of the link bracket. I won't be using this section for the shock mounts.



For the steering linkages, I don't have to worry about interference from the leaf springs, so I am not going to do a high steer. What I am going to do is use flip-certs that I got from from Damien a few years ago to pick up about 3" on the tie rod from the current position and end up with the heavy duty Chev tie rod ends. For those that don't know what flip certs are, the knuckles are tapered from the lower side, you drill out the taper and put the flip cert in from the top to make the taper come in from the top.

These should work well for ground clearance and then also help me get the panhard and drag link alligned closer to parallel.

Last, I am using a 7/8" rod end with misalignment spacers for a total width of 2" OD on the frame end upper link mound mounted on the lower link. The placement of the frame end upper link is to be determined, but full stuff will be on the bumpstops before this mount makes contact. I'm using some of the smaller link tabs for the upper frame end mount.

I'd agree, the big ass joint would look like shit.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Just a little more today, the metal store was closed:shaking:

I finished the frame reinforcing for the lower link frame mounts. I looked at lots of options for lower profile, but in the end, these are essentially the same as the rear end, mounted on the underside of the frame right around the frame bend, and I have not had a single issue with any clearance for the wheeling I do, so I decided to keep it simple...



I don't think these mounts will be going anywhere, We'll see how I do on the beads when I'm upside down and backwards...




I installed my Bungs today,

The problem with people today, we just don't get to talk openly about our Bungs anymore...




And finally, I got one insert inserted. This is the axle end, and I'm using the bushing instead of the joint to isolate vibration. The fact is, I have all joints on the rear 4 link and I doub't if I could pick out any anoying vibrations, after all, this is a 40 year old Scout:flipoff2:

 
#20 · (Edited)
Right now I have stock sagged out 800 springs. As you can see I have long shackles to try and keep most of the fenders out of the tires. I expect to end up with 4"- 5" of lift on the front which will match up pretty good with the rear. With what I trimmed out of the fenders already and the bumpstops, I should be good.

I am planning for 4" of comperssion and up to 8" of extension for travel.



 
#19 ·
I hope it pops, binds and grinds when you flex it:flipoff2: Naw just screwing with after you sold the Scout I wanted. On a tech note I have a HP D60 I need to retube, SOOO how did you get the tube removed from the housing on the short side? I have already cut the Cs off and will be doing the retube over the next couple weeks. It all part of my keeping my plate over full program. I will be watching your build as I am planing to install the HP D60 under my junk later, and will need to redo my links then. And lastly did you consider ORI struts, I have been looking at them and thinking they may be a good option for my junk.
 
#22 · (Edited)


I'm not sure on the 60's, but on the 44s, the tubes are rosette welded on a press fit in the housing. I had a local shop do this for me for $250, because the big deal is alignment of the tubes. They use a full width rod with 4 adjustable "pucks" to center the tubes. Each axle tube has a puck at the outside and on the inside in the diff housing. I picked up a 32" piece of 1/2" wall 3.05" tubing for my long side. The welder had in machined down to be a press fit. In the pic, you can see the rosette welds on the long side and he also ran a bead around the tube to diff spot like on the inner Cs.

My housing is a 78. On the 44's, this has a cast in castor wedge and is a pain in the ass. For a 44, I would look for a 74 to 76 F-150 as they have bolt on hardware and 1/2" tubes. I thought the long side was 1/2", because it was at the C, but the main tube is 1/4" so I am going to run an inner sleeve it my short side.

I looked a ORI struts long enough to see $900 each:shaking: These FOAs were $195 with the dual rate slider. I bought the springs used on in the Pirate classified for $30-$40 each.


I had this axle set up to run a EB axle on the short side which is 3-1/2" longer than the stock Scout. I am very likly to cut this back to the stock width due to Drive shaft clearence issues.
 
#21 ·
i saw those shackles and the captain and coke shot right thru my nose,including the lime.i know your onto bigger and better things but i can't believe it's even drivable like that.don't let the noobs see them,they will all want a pair. :laughing:

14'' of lift for 8 bucks.
 
#24 ·
First step tomorrow is the car wash, then off to the demo project.

I know I could search, but what castor should I set up for, 2° to 4° positive, and I want to confirm, positive will have the top of the C to the rear correct?:D
 
#26 ·
I know I could search, but what castor should I set up for, 2° to 4° positive, and I want to confirm, positive will have the top of the C to the rear correct?:D

I set mine @ 5 and yes, top of the C to the rear or top ball joint behind bottom ball joint.
 
#28 ·
Today, I took the Scout to the car wash for the first time in about 3 years to get all the crap off before wrenching. $7.00 for 3 years of car washing isn't too bad.

I got both frame end mounts on with little to no issues. I'm about 30" from the center of the mount to the back of the axle tube. This is by no means a long arm set up, but I think it will work just fine.

As it is sitting on the 35's, I'm 11-1/2" to the bottom of the mount. I think I'll end up at about 16" to 17" when done.



This is the left inside fender well before cutting. I installed extended SS brake lines when I put the Scout II D-44 in years ago so I should be good for this lift. This side is 2" lower than the right side due to the stinkin' battery tray.



Here is my new favorite pic. I'm using Ballistic towers and just one hell of a deal at $35 per side...

I had to trim about 1/2" off the top on the left side for the battery box.



Oh wait, this is my new favorite pic.:smokin:



In this pic, I took the lower shock spring off to see what kind of tilt I would have on the shock set up. It is just about verticle, which was a relief, I was sure hoping the bottom was not going to end up narrower than the top.

I have jackstands under the axle, and so the current springs put the axle at full stuff for the new lift as the shock is sitting fully collapsed right here. My original plan was to use the inner C shock tabs, but I am going to use these as the inner C model would be about 2-1/2" higher and I don't need more height.



This shot shows how much I trimmed on the inner fender. The last pic shows the steering shaft which cleas the back of the tower with plenty of room. The proportioning valve just to the right of the shock tower on the inside. When all is done, I'll tweak the hard line to allow as much slack in the braided line as I can get.



This is the right side before cutting but after removing the stock shock mount and the stock bump stop. There is plenty of height on this side without trimming the tower.

This pic also shows one of the main benefits of the HP housing. The Scout has the spring perch completely under the frame. The HP housing is about 3" narrower, all on this side so instead of a complicated custom bracket, I can use the off the shelf bracket, mounted right to the tube.

By the way, with the lovely shackles I have in the front, I am 3°negitive castor, instead of a planned 6° positive.

I can't play anymore till next weekend:(
 
#29 ·
I need some input on the front drive line.

I'd like to see what guys are running with a Scout V8, 727 auto and Dana 20 with an SOA. Do you have clearance for a CV or are you running u-joints?

I think I might have an issue going by the tranny.
 
#30 ·
Buck, I've heard you can trim the pan on a 727 and use a CV shaft. On the Scout I did the 500 caddy/700r4 I had to use a small tube shaft tube and run the splines at the diff. Shoot me a PM if you can use a CV shaft, I have an extra Tom Woods CV shaft that I can did not use.:D Build is looking Good, what are you doing with the rear?
 
#31 · (Edited)
Build is looking Good, what are you doing with the rear?
Thanks,

I did a 4 link in the rear with 14" coils. The first post has a link to the build on Binder Planet.

Don't worry, I won't tell anybody you peeked.:flipoff2:

 
#32 ·
nice work man! those mounts are pretty fresh and definitly look tough.enjoying your build,gonna be :smokin: when done
 
#37 · (Edited)
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