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Old 10-09-2001, 10:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Post Daily Topic - Axles - 10/10

What is your ideal setup? I'm going SOA in the next couple of weeks, with stock width Scout axles; in the future I'd like to go full width D60 in the rear, and full width D44 in the front. I may save the IH truck housing for use in a full width swap, or cut it down to Scout II width.

So lets here it, what you got, what you want

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Old 10-09-2001, 11:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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right now:

'78 II: dana 44's, open,3.54's rear drums. all stock

'88 Mustang: ford 7.5. drums, otherwise I don't know

Later: possibly 44/14bolt into scout. unlikely as I'll probably just fix and sell it.

'stang: 8.8 or 9" w/ discs. gonna drop a couple grand into this one including engine and sell.

197X travelall, wagonmaster, or similar: I wanna find this for tow rig. exuvilent of 44/14 bolt setup, 4.10's rear drums. if 14 has LS i'll keep it, but not gonna waste cash on one.

196X scout: dana 60 front, 14 bolt or 60 rear, whichever I find first. ARB in both ends, 4.56 gears. maybe 4 wheel discs.

got a question here. Mark just told me he has a set of dana 60 FF axles. I've seen a YJ with a front 60 that they used the rear axle to build off of, and I'm guessing this would be cheaper. If I was to do this, would it basically be cut short side, add new long side tube, add inner and outer knuckles, brakes and hubs, perches, and install? just need to order new shafts then? where can I get the outboard parts needed?
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Old 10-10-2001, 12:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Right now 30/44 drum/drum 3.73 gonna be 44/14 disc/drum 4.10 Fullwidths.
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Old 10-10-2001, 06:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
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My current plan is to build the truck using what I have and some mods. So SOA is in order with the stock axle housings, unless i can find a deal on a mid chevy Dana 44 front axle. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> Make the SOA a little nicer. I will be running what ever gears I have along with the trashloc. Since i have an extra trashloc I will put that in the front axle. I would like to do a little work and end up with an internal hub from a F150 on the front, but have not worked out the parts yet.
Someday <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> I would like to go to DANA 60's front and rear. With Detroit Locker in back and a ARB in the front. But hey anyone can dream. <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0">
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Old 10-10-2001, 06:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Now:

Front-->D44 from a waggoneer approx 62" wide

Rear-->D60 semifloat from a 67 heavy duty F100 Approx 62" wide

Who knows what the future will bring <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
I am really hoping for something to happen for these 44's so I don't have to put a 60 in the front.

[ 10-10-2001: Message edited by: Scout Dude ]
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Old 10-10-2001, 07:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by NotQuiteSane:
<STRONG>

got a question here. Mark just told me he has a set of dana 60 FF axles. I've seen a YJ with a front 60 that they used the rear axle to build off of, and I'm guessing this would be cheaper. If I was to do this, would it basically be cut short side, add new long side tube, add inner and outer knuckles, brakes and hubs, perches, and install? just need to order new shafts then? where can I get the outboard parts needed?</STRONG>
The outers and the C's are the hard part to find. If you know how to get a hold of all of this, then go for it.
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Old 10-10-2001, 07:25 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I think if you had the D 60 center section The rest would be pretty easy.

You could use D60 knuckles off of a ford and the axleshafts as well (ford; because they're easier to find) Nice thing about that is you get the better brakes too.

Although I'm not sure what Scout Dude means by "C's" I imagine those could be had off of the ford stuff.

I've been thinking about this for awhile since I've spotted about 3-4 D60's at this sweet junkyard that NO ONE ELSE ever goes to.
The guy is like 75 years old and sooo ready to retire. That's where I got my sweet deal of a quarter panel.
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Old 10-10-2001, 07:26 AM   #8 (permalink)
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What would youdo for "new" tubes though????

What kind of material and what size etc.. etc????

Nice thing about this idea is that you would automatically get whatever width axle you need right off the bat.
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Old 10-10-2001, 07:31 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I'm with Scout Dude on this one. If you want a front D60, just buy one. I've seen them as low as $500 (actually I've seen them lower than that, till they guy realises what they are worth). But you can pick them up all day for around $1000. You would have more than that into just all the outer parts if you tried to build on yourself, unless you scored on some parts "kicking around" or some other strange sircumstance.

Besides.. I'm seeing some COOL stuff with/for D44's from this site....


As for ME and axles:

Current: D44's F/R w 4.10.
Future: Custom RC D44 front, ARB, ~ 62" wide, Rear, D60-2 out of a t-all/pu (also 62"), 35-spline, probably discs. Spool or ARB. 4.54 gears in both (4.88's get weak in a D44).

Then look at a second t-case....... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
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Old 10-10-2001, 07:36 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cliffhanger:
<STRONG>I think if you had the D 60 center section The rest would be pretty easy.

You could use D60 knuckles off of a ford and the axleshafts as well (ford; because they're easier to find) Nice thing about that is you get the better brakes too.

Although I'm not sure what Scout Dude means by "C's" I imagine those could be had off of the ford stuff.

I've been thinking about this for awhile since I've spotted about 3-4 D60's at this sweet junkyard that NO ONE ELSE ever goes to.
The guy is like 75 years old and sooo ready to retire. That's where I got my sweet deal of a quarter panel.</STRONG>

hmmm.... OOOOO-REEAAALLLYYY...


what can you get a Ford '60 for??? You want to score one, wack off the ends and send them to me?? Got plenty of D60's to make one out of..... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

As for tubes, if your going this route, you may as well go all the way: Chrome Moly. Lighter, stronger, and not *that* expencive. Plus it adds that extra "zoot" factor <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">
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Old 10-10-2001, 07:53 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scout Dude:
<STRONG>
Rear-->D60 semifloat from a 67 heavy duty F100 Approx 62" wide

</STRONG>
NOOOOOOOO There 19 spline!
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Old 10-10-2001, 08:24 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by RustoleumWhite:
<STRONG>
hmmm.... OOOOO-REEAAALLLYYY...


what can you get a Ford '60 for??? You want

</STRONG>
Heck, I'll take the whole thing. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Quote:
<STRONG>
As for tubes, if your going this route, you may as well go all the way: Chrome Moly. Lighter, stronger, and not *that* expencive. </STRONG>
ouch. Didn't I hear Brandon on here say that the 3"x.500 DOM for his HD '44 retubing project was $$$$ ($20/ft?).. I wonder what 4130 would cost in that size.

And the Vaseline is an extra-cost option.

Still.. it *WOULD* be <IMG SRC="smilies/cool.gif" border="0">
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Old 10-10-2001, 08:35 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Parts and labor from Currie for a retube with 3.25"-.250 is 189.95 .
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Old 10-10-2001, 08:38 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>What is your ideal setup? I'm going SOA in the next couple of weeks, with stock width Scout axles; in the future I'd like to go full width D60 in the rear, and full width D44 in the front. I may save the IH truck housing for use in a full width swap, or cut it down to Scout II width.

So lets here it, what you got, what you want

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

After attending rock crawl this week, I am afraid D60 is the only way to go, if you are into that kind of abuse.

On the other hand, my 44's will hold up fine for the trail runs I do.

70's and 80's hang down too far. We got hung up on a lot of stuff.

Patrick
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Old 10-10-2001, 08:55 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Old Scout:
<STRONG>NOOOOOOOO There 19 spline!</STRONG>
I didn't pull mine out of the truck, I was just told that this is what it is out of. When I picked up brake parts, they were for a 67.

However, I have pulled the axles and they are currently 30 spline. It doesn't matter though...I will have 35 spline axles soon enough. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
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Old 10-10-2001, 09:52 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>What is your ideal setup?
So lets here it, what you got, what you want
</STRONG>
"Tigger" - 4.09 SII 44/44, LR/Trashlok
Near-term - Regear the FF60 to 4.56 for the rear, retube the Ford HP44 front for the pass-side diff, 4.56s, 8-lug. Why? Relatively cheap and I have most of the parts
Long-term -

Come on now, everyone say it with me..

SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY! SIXTY!

Up front, of course. 8-lug, big-brakes. HP wouldn't hurt, but if I'm honest with myself, that won't happen this decade..

"Little Devil" - fullwidth 44s front/rear, 4.88s, open/open. Well, half of a FW 44 up front.
Near-term - TRUSSED '44 front (Sunday!).

Otherwise, the axle stay as they are. If I had too much $$$, I'd ARB front/rear, but I don't.

"BUGM" - full width 44s, 3.73.
Either scrap it, or upgrade to a Chevy 8-lug '44 or 10-bolt front, and a FF 60 rear. 1/2T stuff just ain't up to the job.

"200" - IFS front, RA-15 rear, 4.30 gears, 1.5"+ axle shafts. More clearance than a 70 or 14-bolt.

Long-term - '44 or 60F (it'd be nice for the brakes, but $$$$ says it won't happen) when I can't get brake rotors for it.


GF 800 "Oscar" - Dana 30/44 w/ 4.27s.. moving to 4.09 SII D44s down the road.
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Old 10-10-2001, 12:11 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Axles, axles, axles! I swapped so many axles in my scouts it's hard to remember, but this is the current;
'80 SII= FRT44 truetrac with Warn hub conversion, RR60 trashloc with semi float scout axles, 4.10's

'78 Traveler= '80 frt & rr 44's w/3.31's

'72 SII= '80 frt & rr 44's, rr Truetrac w/3.73's

'73 SII/project= '80 frt & rr 44's, rr trashloc w/3.73's

On my garage I'm running a multitude of Scout 44's: frt 44 w/3.54, rr 44/4.10, rr 44/3.31, rr 44/3.73, rr 44/3.54(blown gears= fawking EZ locker)

As for the future, I'll be down to 1 Scout( the '80). I think the current axles are fine, except I'd like to cut and twist the frt knuckles. Anyone need axles or a scout?!
<IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0">
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Old 10-10-2001, 01:14 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Currently 44's front and rear 4.56's, lockrights and 36's, this winter full with 3/4 ton RC 44 front, 1 ton van 14 bolt, 4.88's lockright and detroit, 38's on hummer wheels. I allready have everthing just need to find the time, hopefully around Nov-Jan.
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Old 10-10-2001, 01:25 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Baja Binder:
<STRONG>Axles, axles, axles! I swapped so many axles in my scouts it's hard to remember, but this is the current;
'80 SII= FRT44 truetrac with Warn hub conversion, RR60 trashloc with semi float scout axles, 4.10's

'78 Traveler= '80 frt & rr 44's w/3.31's

'72 SII= '80 frt & rr 44's, rr Truetrac w/3.73's

'73 SII/project= '80 frt & rr 44's, rr trashloc w/3.73's

On my garage I'm running a multitude of Scout 44's: frt 44 w/3.54, rr 44/4.10, rr 44/3.31, rr 44/3.73, rr 44/3.54(blown gears= fawking EZ locker)

As for the future, I'll be down to 1 Scout( the '80). I think the current axles are fine, except I'd like to cut and twist the frt knuckles. Anyone need axles or a scout?!
<IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
You want to sell a 4.10 set, let me know.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">
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Old 10-10-2001, 01:37 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I've kicked this Idea around also....

What about making your own solid axle D50. Like the ford TTB (I think that's what they are)

Stick D60 outers on a D44. Not a whole lot of use do enough to shatter a D44 carrier, but just enough to bust the axle joints. THis may solve some of our problems, or just create others.

I've even been looking at the outers on the ford TTB set-up but haven't got close enough to one yet to tell if it will work.
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Old 10-10-2001, 01:41 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by RustoleumWhite:
<STRONG>
hmmm.... OOOOO-REEAAALLLYYY...


what can you get a Ford '60 for??? You want to score one, wack off the ends and send them to me?? Got plenty of D60's to make one out of..... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

As for tubes, if your going this route, you may as well go all the way: Chrome Moly. Lighter, stronger, and not *that* expencive. Plus it adds that extra "zoot" factor <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Sorry I think you thought I meant Front D60's.....I meant rear, I'm still looking at options for front D60's *see post above*
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Old 10-10-2001, 01:42 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cliffhanger:
<STRONG>I've kicked this Idea around also....

What about making your own solid axle D50. Like the ford TTB (I think that's what they are)

Stick D60 outers on a D44. Not a whole lot of use do enough to shatter a D44 carrier, but just enough to bust the axle joints. THis may </STRONG>
I've thought about it some - but not with a TTB. I have a friend that has two Dana 50F solid-axle fronts lyin' around.

Of course, the axle shafts neck down as they go into the center.

Diff is on the wrong side.

Smaller R&P..

But it does have the 60 joints and stubs.

Swap the tubes side for side.. great, but you have the necked down 44-ish innner axles.

OK, retube it into a standard 60 center section.. now you need new (35sp) inner 'shafts made..

Could be done, but would you really be $$$ ahead over just buyin' a Chevy 60?

Retubing, new axle shafts, destroy one rear 60 for the center section, grind perches into the thing, etc..
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Old 10-10-2001, 02:49 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>I've thought about it some - but not with a TTB. I have a friend that has two Dana 50F solid-axle fronts lyin' around.

Of course, the axle shafts neck down as they go into the center.

Diff is on the wrong side.

Smaller R&P..

But it does have the 60 joints and stubs.

Swap the tubes side for side.. great, but you have the necked down 44-ish innner axles.

OK, retube it into a standard 60 center section.. now you need new (35sp) inner 'shafts made..

Could be done, but would you really be $$$ ahead over just buyin' a Chevy 60?

Retubing, new axle shafts, destroy one rear 60 for the center section, grind perches into the thing, etc..</STRONG>
That's what I'm talkin' about. Using the D44 center as apposed to a D60, get the better Ground clearance. But you still have the bad ass U-joints. Plus if you get a detroit for it (or Ox-Locker, I forget, do those replace the carrier too??) then you have a tough carrier to boot......I don't know maybe its a stupid idea.

I didn't know they made D50 Solid axle.....

The thing is that it seems to me I'd never bust a D44 center, but with my caddy engine I could easily bust the joints out of one, so why not beef the joints to D60 size, and then get a detroit for the beefier center (just in case.)

Ahhh what the hell after all that I might as well get a D60, I just don't want anything hangin' that low in the front (plus the weight)
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Old 10-10-2001, 02:59 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>What is your ideal setup?

So lets here it, what you got, what you want

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Well right now I still have the plain old good enough scout stuff under mine but if ever possible it would be:

60 front 60 rear with 5.12's or so turning 39.5 or 40 inch tires. Real detroits in both axles, might as well make those axles high pinion while I am dreaming.

My buddy Skeetshooter is in the process of building a Traveler with a 70 rear,with factory Detroit and a big ass Napco axle up front, unless he finds a 60 before he gets done. Planning on turning 42-44 inch tires.
Both axles already have 5+ gears and he will run dual T-cases with a 345-727 combo.

He claims that he will eventually crawl so slow that he will go back in time. I think he will just stop moving <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
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Old 10-10-2001, 03:06 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cliffhanger:
<STRONG>That's what I'm talkin' about. Using the D44 center as apposed to a D60, get the better Ground clearance. But you still have the bad ass U-joints.
</STRONG>
Bad-ass U-joints, but Dana 44 size axle shafts.. great, no more joint breakage, but you'll smoke the inner axle shafts.. Joints are cheaper than shafts! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Quote:
<STRONG>
Plus if you get a detroit for it (or Ox-Locker, I forget, do those replace the carrier too??)
</STRONG>
Only if you retube for a '44 center section. Limited choices for the Dana 50 (which, IIRC, is ONLY reverse-cut)

Quote:
<STRONG>
I didn't know they made D50 Solid axle.....
</STRONG>
Late model SD F250s.. F350s might also have the 50.. I heard it's harder to get a 60F these days (F450 for sure)

Quote:
<STRONG>
The thing is that it seems to me I'd never bust a D44 center, but with my caddy engine I could easily bust the joints out of one, so why not beef the joints to D60 size, and then
</STRONG>
I bet if you got beefy enough 'shafts and U-joints that you couldn't break 'em, AND enough traction.. you'd strip the R&P, or the front driveshaft would fail.

At that point.. why cut corners?

Quote:
<STRONG>
Ahhh what the hell after all that I might as well get a D60, I just don't want anything hangin' that low in the front (plus the weight)</STRONG>
If you're really concerned.. buy a Chevy '60 front and install a Tera-Low HP60 center section and have your cake and eat it too! (and it it you will, 'cuz you can forget grocery money..)

Chevy 60 for $1000.
I bet a late model Dana 60 would cost that much or a ton more just to get the tubes and outers and such - unless you get lucky and find one w/ a broken center section. Add in the retubing and a new center section.. then the new axle shafts then...

It ALL costs $$$$.. heck, after all this, it makes a Chevy 60 look CHEAP. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
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