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Old 07-28-2010, 09:48 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Well I am back in the garage tonight...what a fucking joke I am. Month and a half down from fucking pneumonia and then trying to get caught up on the shit that stacks up when you are sick/busy...

I am back at the ride height issue and don't think I can run any lift blocks due to the long "anti-wrap" perches I bought. The fuckers are 8" long. So I took apart my old leaf packs and have a couple of pieces I can add in that aren't too jacked.

If I do this then I will have to cut off my clamps and I don't really want to have to do that.

But then again I am adding an anti-wrap bar. Having never have run an anti-wrap bar...do I need to worry about the leaves fanning out and not running clamps?
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:07 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Torch the clamps & bend them.
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Old 07-29-2010, 07:55 AM   #78 (permalink)
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That's what I just did with mine. When the pack was apart I heated up the clamp ends and bent them up. While still hot I laid it on the anvil and smack them a few times so they were nice and straight. A quick dunk it in water before the heat could travel to spring. Then drilled a hole in the very end so I could run a bolt to hold the pack together.
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Old 07-29-2010, 08:44 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R290 View Post
That's what I just did with mine. When the pack was apart I heated up the clamp ends and bent them up. While still hot I laid it on the anvil and smack them a few times so they were nice and straight. A quick dunk it in water before the heat could travel to spring. Then drilled a hole in the very end so I could run a bolt to hold the pack together.
Probably what I will do then. Or at least booty fab a version of this.
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Old 07-29-2010, 02:25 PM   #80 (permalink)
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If you need some more height, but don't want to add springs, cut down some leaves the same length of the perches and bolt them on. K5 guys call them "zero-rate springs".

Or you could even leave them a little longer than the perch to add a little more anti-wrap without effecting the top springs much.


Food for though. Come raid my misc spring pile before they end up in the scrap truck
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:12 PM   #81 (permalink)
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I can't get a lean out of my motor/tranny/t-case I have the T-case all assembled and mocked in the rig and can not get a twist that I think might be built in...out. This is wreaking havoc on my mounting feet for the new T-case mount.

Pics tomorrow morning...but I have a question...

I think I am looking for some 1 to 1-1/4 inch thick polyurethane bushings. I would like them to be around 1-1/2 inch diameter. Anybody help a douche out with something close? I am hoping to buy something from Energy Suspension or the like at the local 4W$PS...

Something like this:



Or more like this with standard thread studs...



I am thinking of just working with the twist as I feel it was built into the rig and shimming the high side...pics to explain tomorrow.
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Old 08-04-2010, 06:41 AM   #82 (permalink)
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Those bushings in the first pic are Jeep CJ body bushings. 1" thick. I used them for motor mount bushings in the Shit Box and will be using them for my new tranny x member too. I have about 6 or 8 of them. Want a few?
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Old 08-04-2010, 07:50 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Is the engine still level side to side? Maybe one of the motor mounts is collapsed creating your twist?
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:43 AM   #84 (permalink)
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You know that rig has been babied it's whole life so I'm sure the chassis/ frame isn't tweaked at all.
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:56 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binderbound View Post
Those bushings in the first pic are Jeep CJ body bushings. 1" thick. I used them for motor mount bushings in the Shit Box and will be using them for my new tranny x member too. I have about 6 or 8 of them. Want a few?
Thanks Danno...With that nugget of info I will run to the shit store and try to pick up some of these today at lunch as I would like to finish this little issue tonight. I am going to be going from a "narrow" mounting foot like in the picture below, to a wider mounting stance by going directly to the feet of the new adapter.

If the shit store doesn't have any locally...then I will PM you.

Quote:
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Is the engine still level side to side? Maybe one of the motor mounts is collapsed creating your twist?
The engine is not level side to side...BUT I am not sure if it ever was. If you look at the design of the Dana 20 bull gear and adapter from the Jeep design...it has a built in twist or rotation. The mounting foot and spacer are level, whereas the transmission pattern is clocked exactly to the degree my twist is.

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The new adapter feet and transmission pattern are perfectly perpendicular to each other. (the photo is a little warped but it is level)

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The motor mounts are NOT level in their seating...The passenger mount is dove/driven into the saddle and the driver side is about 1/4" higher in its saddle/cradle. I tried to loosen the mounts last night and feably twist the motor...but I am weak. I ended up having another beer.

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I am going to be using the bushings regardless like in the photo I copied from R290's thread. If I can't defeat the twist tonight...I am just going to shim the high side and say fuck it...and run it. In the photo below I slid a 1-1/2" tube under the low side while trying to clamp down the high side...it just shows the twist.

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I would LOVE to make it level and perfect as I am anal like that...I am just not sure how I can get it. I will loosen up the mounts and everything up front and jack the shit out of it and see if I can make the bitch dance for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Binder View Post
You know that rig has been babied it's whole life so I'm sure the chassis/ frame isn't tweaked at all.
Oooohhh Rick...I know, I know. It should be in great shape once I finish this round of polishing...
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:07 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Dana 300 instead of the Dana 20:::

Try and get things back in order here...

So I started with this dirty Dana 300:



After a couple cans of "environmentally safe" engine cleaner, a stack of brushes, a good sweat, and $10.00 at the car wash I ended up with this:

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So far it hasn't started leaking on my workbench.
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:40 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Got the JB Conversions Rotation Plate kit out and installed it. I had already installed the input with no seal so that I could at least slide it on the newly installed TH400 output shaft for mocking up.

So I pulled it and the stock bearing retainer assembly off again:

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If you have done this before then please ignore my new-ness at the Dana 300 tech.
From the left you will remove the retaining ring, and then slide off the drive gear. After this just you just tap out the input shaft.

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Next you just fight with the large internal snap ring and take it out. A small drift punch will take the bearing out.

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Next just slide the bearing into the JB Conversions Rotation Plate. Then follow it with the snap ring that you took out of the stock bearing retainer. Tap the assembly onto the 32 spline input shaft...include any shims that might have been between it and the bearing (mine had none). Slide on the drive gear and finish the assembly with the snap ring.

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The last thing to do is to press in the new input shaft seal. After that you can locate the unit on the Dana 300.
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:48 AM   #88 (permalink)
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those rubber bushings look like the 50's chevy motor mounts also. I havent bought any for many years, but they used to be about a buck a piece.
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Old 08-09-2010, 08:44 AM   #89 (permalink)
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Quote:
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those rubber bushings look like the 50's chevy motor mounts also. I havent bought any for many years, but they used to be about a buck a piece.

Looks like they doubled in price. Did not call the local Jeep store to see if they sold them individually, but suspect they do.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-2-4101G/

HOS nice job of the 300
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Old 08-09-2010, 02:23 PM   #90 (permalink)
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napa sells them per each.
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Old 08-09-2010, 04:15 PM   #91 (permalink)
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I am trying to get my rear shift rail loose of the t-case and have loosened the shift fork set screw. I have NOT rmoved the plug from the top of the shift rail housing because I don't know how I will seal it back up.

Do I need to remove that plug/cap in order for the rail to be yanked free of the detents?

I am trying to do the easy method of grinding without having to break apart the case...
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:16 PM   #92 (permalink)
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If I remember right you do have to remove em. .. so I would probably just pull the shift rail seal/thimbles and replace em

http://www.crownautomotive.net/produ.../J0934281.html
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:18 PM   #93 (permalink)
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If I recall correctly, the rails do not come out without taking the whole shifter assembly out of the case.

Been a while since I did my 300 twin-stick... I can't remember if I even removed the "pills". IIRC it was front-2wd-HI I lost... and I've only missed it once, and even then it wasn't a big deal.

Unless there is grinding for something else you need.
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Old 08-10-2010, 05:44 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Man... it's been too long. I just can't remember all the little details now.
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Old 08-10-2010, 07:15 AM   #95 (permalink)
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I did not pull the rail on my D300 when I added the twin sticks. Heck I didn't take anything apart on it. I used a dremel to grind the little notch for the sticks and away I went.
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Old 08-10-2010, 07:34 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Man... it's been too long. I just can't remember all the little details now.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...highlight=d300

I'm of no use, but Mech did note there is a sweet spot to get the rail out.
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Old 08-10-2010, 08:06 AM   #97 (permalink)
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I got it last night. My 12 year old and I found out how to get it out...and I'll edit this post later with some details.

I now have a fully selectable Dana 300 with pills still intact!
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Old 08-17-2013, 07:54 PM   #98 (permalink)
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I'll just update this thread with the shit I am working on right now:::::

So I am working on my shitbox lately and am trying to take care of a couple of things that have been fucked up for a while. One of those things is my motor mounts.

Part of the passenger side motor/tranny/t-case lean that was caused and read about previously in this thread appears to be because of my stock motor mounts. The torque and power of the 1969 472 Cadillac Coupe DeVille motor when coupled with a weak/broken tranny mount design is just too much for the front mounts to handle. The new mount is on the left...mine is on the right
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I have replaced these mounts before back in 2005/2006'ish and they were hashed back then as well. BenW had tried to keep the CCW rotation at bay by putting a "junkyard dog" chain on the motor. I have broken that chain every year now.

While my son and I were trying to replace the mounts this week we ran into a very interesting occurance. Chiscouter (Helmer) on this board had sent me a set of Caddy mounts that "should" have worked, but don't. They are listed as part number 2296 and appear to be correct. My son and I have found out that there is a subtle difference between manufacturers of this motor mount.
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The mount on the left of the above photo is one that is also a 2296 motor mount. The one on the right is the one Helmer sent me. We at first were like..."shit let's bolt up the mounts on our shelf and get to fabbing up some shit...Bro". Well we couldn't get that set of mounts to sit in their cradles for nothing. Due to the height difference the geometry was all off when you would try and lower the motor down into the seats on the frame. So I went to the local auto parts store and had them source out another set of 2296 mounts. The ones on the left are what we got and they match the previous set I put in.

The correct ones are ANCHOR INDUSTRIES brand and made in KOREA:
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The bad ones (too tall) are from ISREAL:
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So this afternoon we installed the KOREA version of 2296 motor mounts and were able to drop the motor back in. I will save the details on our white-trash cinder block motor/jack extension. The good news is that the LEAN that we had in the engine and tranny/T-case adapter mount is now nearly gone. Or I should say it is now runnable.

So after 3-4 days of fucking around with some motor mounts we are now ready to fab up a new tranny mount.
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More updates tomorrow...?
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:52 PM   #99 (permalink)
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I like the cardboard & duct tape protection on the support beam.
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:39 PM   #100 (permalink)
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I like the cardboard & duct tape protection on the support beam.
Good eye dude. That is there from the previous home owners... Because of all my white trash hobbies we have never parked a car in that side of the garage in 2-1/2 years we have owned the home

Picked up a house guest today from Tennessee that will be staying with us for the week. Probably good for my marriage that I don't work in the garage till late tonight.
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