Budget Ram Assist

[Scouty]

Finally getting around to putting hydro-assist on the Scout. Picked up a rebuilt PSC steering box and Farm Supply 2"x8" ram. Still deciding on which pump AGR or PSC. Still broke, so I'm keeping the 44 with PartsMike high steer arms and the drag link and tie rod y-link setup. Because of the y-link setup I'm concerned about attaching the ram to the drag link (thought Scout254 had a similar problem?). The ram has clevis ends so was thinking of attaching the ram to the original drag link arm on the knuckle. I know it will be low, but will cover the ram with a Ford shock tower that happens to fit perfectly. Plan is to limit the ram so it won't push on the knuckle. Besides going to a 60 any other suggestions?

[MochaMike]

Get a HD Dif cover & attach it to it, or make a plate which attaches to the top 4-6 bolts of the dif cover, then to your Tie Rod.

I know you said you plan to limit the ram, but IIRC 8" is for Dana 60s while Dana 44s use 6" ram.

[235frog]

From what I understand a 2" ram is going to move SLOOOOW if you happen to be driving on the street. Most people go with a 1.5" ram. I did. And for my dana 44 I only needed about 6" of stroke so you will have to find a way to limit the ram externally or internally to save your knuckles.

[Scouty]

Pete what pump did you use, do you have a remote reservoir? R290 and I measured the travel lock to lock and there is 9 inches, so with the RAM centered in won't push on the knuckles. The 44 is full width chevy.

[reuben]

Matt, when I used to have hydro assist then full hydro I just used a chevy pump from a hydro boost set-up, then Mike helped me boost it and I never had any problems. I personally think that those bling after market pumps are not needed.

[235frog]

Originally Posted by Scouty

Pete what pump did you use, do you have a remote reservoir? R290 and I measured the travel lock to lock and there is 9 inches, so with the RAM centered in won't push on the knuckles. The 44 is full width chevy.

I ended up using a ram from surplus center. https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...name=hydraulic
I have the same full width dana 44 8-lug like you do, but for some reason I only get 6" out of it. It is probably the steering arms/pitman arm setup I have.
I didn't add a reservoir yet, although it is on the list. I just added a small ps cooler. I am using the stock ps box that I drilled and tapped and the stock pump. The only issue that I have is that I need to increase the pressure the pump puts out by doing that add a washer or whatever that is in Jim Weed's writeup. Because I have an auto the fact that I sometimes have to bring the rpm's up to turn when I am up against a rock doesn't bother me too much.

[rgwestra]

Originally Posted by MochaMike

Get a HD Dif cover & attach it to it, or make a plate which attaches to the top 4-6 bolts of the dif cover, then to your Tie Rod.

x2.You can kind of see in this pic thats what I did.I used the Scout II box and pump with 1.5x8" ram.I boosted the pump as per bills writeup on BP.It all works well.
Ask Jetfxr about running a 2" ram.

[larboc@hotmail.com]

old ford power assist systems had a sweet bracket for a 44.

[JetFxr]

I had a guy here in Billings port and polish the spool valve in my steering box when he rebuilt it. Now it runs a 2" ran just fine, I am thinking it would be stupid fast with a 1.5" ram. It was an issue before, now it is as fast as you turn the wheel. I have mine set up like you are looking at, I just welded a tab on the tube, it is a little low as you were concerned with but if I do run into an issue, I will build a skid plate. Has not been an issue so far but I am aware where it is located.

[scout254]

Originally Posted by Scouty

so with the RAM centered in won't push on the knuckles..

This is how PSC told me to setup mine(center the ram in the middle of travel), it still pushed on the knuckles, bent my tie rod ends, and snapped a couple studs. Please limit the ram instead.

Originally Posted by 235frog

so you will have to find a way to limit the ram externally or internally to save your knuckles.

Try to do the internal limiting

Originally Posted by Scouty

Because of the y-link setup I'm concerned about attaching the ram to the drag link (thought Scout254 had a similar problem?)

Yeah I bent the tie rod end a couple times, went to the 2 hole passenger steering arm instead.

With the ram limited and 2 hole arm, I have never had any more issues with my steering.

[Scouty]

Ok, so here is the ram set up I'm going to use on my 44. The pics are of my buddies Cruiser with a 60. He is running a 2x8 tractor supply ram. The gaurd is a ford shock tower. Also added some pics of my new bump stops. Right now I'm running a 4" drop pitman arm, but it hits the spring when flexed. R290 and I added the bump stops and ubolt plates to see if it will help. So far I've cracked open one ps box and snapped a sector shaft on another. The bump stops will help, but will probably need to make a 2" drop pitman arm.

[R290]

I have access to some thick steel, but have know asap, as this Thursday is the last day there. Call and see if you need any thing for that setup.

[Binder]

Do yourself a favor and limit the travel of the ram. Also I know it works fine for some but I recommend to not attach it directly to the knuckle with high steer as this puts lots of stress on that knuckle.

[R290]

Originally Posted by Binder

Do yourself a favor and limit the travel of the ram. Also I know it works fine for some but I recommend to not attach it directly to the knuckle with high steer as this puts lots of stress on that knuckle.

The ram travel is shorter then the tie-rod. But I since its going on the knuckle will need to double check travel to make sure it's still OK. Both knuckles have high steer arms? But the connection will be opposite of the drag link connection side.

[Rock Tractor]

When you shear the knuckle and/or slam that thing into a rock. Your on your own.

[R290]

Originally Posted by Rock Tractor

When you shear the knuckle and/or slam that thing into a rock. Your on your own.

Not all of use have arms as big as most peoples legs. We all know you got hydro assit so your daughter could drive

I was not overly excited with the location. The other option would be to tie it into the tie rod.

[Scouty]

Originally Posted by Rock Tractor

When you shear the knuckle and/or slam that thing into a rock. Your on your own.

I hear ya about it not being the best location, but after seeing Scout254 TRE all bent out of shape, I'm not sure that's the best option either. Considering the ram and high steer setup I've got what is your suggestion?

[Rock Tractor]

I've got mine tied into my tierod. First I got my pitman arm dialed in with my turning radius, then I figured out the stroke of the the ram I needed and ordered one. Just do it right and you won't be sorry

[Rock Tractor]

Here's a pic

[Scouty]

I went back and looked at Mechanos' setup and it looks like everything is relatively low and parallel. Doesn't look too dificult to modify the same style brace and mount for a ram with clevis'. I guess carrying a $30 TRE and replacing a bent one on the trail is easier than trying to fix a busted knuckle . Will probably limit the ram stroke a little bit, but from the first couple of measurements R290 and I did, it looked like the ram would stop before hitting the stops on either knuckle.

[Scouty]

Thanks Rock Tractor, is bracing off the pumpkin better than going the other way like Mechanos'?

[Binder]

Originally Posted by Scouty

Thanks Rock Tractor, is bracing off the pumpkin better than going the other way like Mechanos'?

It's just a matter of what physically fits better for your application.

[JetFxr]

Mine is great to the left, could be week to the right, but I use the Crane knuckles. Who knows ??????????