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Old 11-12-2011, 09:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Issues bleeding clutch on 92' rodeo

I had to replace the slave cylinder on a 92' rodeo and while I was at it I replaced the master cylinder as well. Now I am having a problem getting the system bled. I tried bleeding the master with the line off and then reconnecting the line and bleeding the slave,no good. I even tried loading the system from the bottom (pushing fluid into the slave with a large syringe) and then doing the pump and bleed,no good. I also tried filling the master with the bleed nipple out off the slave and pumping the clutch until fluid pumped out and then replaced the nipple and did the pump and bleed,no good. No matter what I try I can't get a good solid petal. Has anyone had this problem? Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Okay,I finally figured this out. I ended up using a large cyringe to push fluid from the bottom to get the line loaded all the way to the master and at the same time pushing the air out the top (I had the line cracked loose going into the master cylinder) I continued pushing fluid until I had a steady stream of fluid coming out the top. At this point I had the line loaded but I still didn't have any resistance on the petal. Then I put a prybar on the shift fork and while I was prying the shift fork back (also extending the piston on the slave cylinder) I had my buddy force fluid into the slave cylinder with the cyringe. Once the cylinder was full,we tightened the bleed nipple and let the shift fork return. Now at this point we discovered that the slave cylinder did not return completely. So I cracked the line at the master cylinder,and let it bleed until the slave returned. Then I tightened the line on the master and fired up the rig. Everything works fine now,it shifts just fine and I have a good solid petal. I hope this helps anyone having the same problem,I know I was about to pull my hair out!!
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:42 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Good info since I'm looking for a Trooper into which I can swap my Rodeo 5-speed.
Did you find any problems with the line itself? Seems odd that fluid wasn't flowing easily between master and slave.
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Old 11-15-2011, 08:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivy Mike View Post
Good info since I'm looking for a Trooper into which I can swap my Rodeo 5-speed.
Did you find any problems with the line itself? Seems odd that fluid wasn't flowing easily between master and slave.
No the line was fine,and yea it was strange that I couldn't get fluid flowing.But raising the fluid from the bottom worked really well.
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:19 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Something in the system was probably seized. Happens with brakes, usually a tap with the hammer jars the cylinder loose. You probably free'd it by forcing fluid against it.
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Good to hear you find a fix. I replaced the slave and master on the clutch on a 92 rodeo, had the same issue. Actually did it 2yrs ago, its parked these days. Will need to try this trick.
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Amigo clutch Master Cylinder

Related issue bleeding Amigo clutch line. Had to replace master clutch cylinder assembly. This part penetrates the firewall and is virtually unreachable. Restored functionality, but the engagement point for the pedal is just off the floor with about 1-inch of engagement. How do I get the pedal to engage sooner ? BTW reaching all this crap to effect the replacement on the driver side of the firewall was almost impossible. What a cluster. Thanks.
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Old 03-29-2012, 04:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Recently replaced mine also,biggest bitch was getting the hard lineloose and back on the clutch master
Mine also engaged 1" off floor,the mighty vac didn't work,it wouldn't pull fluid,is was like wtf
I took the clip off and pulled the pin on pedal assy.and wedge a wrench and screwdriver into the mount area to push the rod into the master cyl about 3/16".I was then able to pull fluid through at the slave bleeder
I was damn ready to replace the hardline with braided and bleed on the bench and then snake assy back into place
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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clutch bleed bitch 91 rodeo

I started out changed my M/C as it was leaking on my foot. then to get it bleed, I pretty much did all the aforementioned, I used a pressure bleeder with 10psi behind it. I drilled and tapped a fitting in the old MC cap to put in fluid from top down. with fluid running out slave bleeder i pushed in the clutch and while it was down had buddy pry bar fork and close bleeder. Got an excellent pedal and drove around town for 2 months, So then I go 4 wheeling for the day and luckily as I was making my last 5 point turn around for the day the pedal goes to the floor and I drive home clutchless. The Master cylinder is only 1/4 full. So I figure its time to change the slave as well, would have done it the first time but parts house didn't have it in stock. And it did not appear to be leaking when I pulled back the boot. Well there was a slight bit of moisture but not the typical pull the boot back and have a teaspoon run out. So I install the slave, pressure bleed etc again, and again, and again, but although clutch works it seams that the pedal has to be pushed a bit farther down for full engagement. I drive around town for a few weeks and go 4 wheeling again (snow wheeling which requires a ton of clutch work to work thru a drift) again by the end of the day I'm not getting complete disengagement. Again M/C is only 1/4 full, yet I cant find a leak anywhere. I bleed again and suddenly have the best pedal Ive had since I owned it.
Went out wheeling, full day of clutch work, no problems.
Drives fine all week.
Went out wheeling again and by coincidence as I'm making my last 5 point turn around in the snow I suddenly loose most of the pedal, and by the time I get home its clutchless and there is only 1/4 full M/C again.
With Absolutely no sign of leakage in slave or M/C, so I figure there must be a very small leak in the line some where, but amazingly its dry from end to end.
Now I have two questions. One is where could the fluid possibly be going?
and Two after following the line from end to end I see there is some kind of a junction block in the middle with only one line in and out, plus a bleeder screw. What the hell is the function of that?? Is it some kind of back pressure retainer?
Also I see there is a loop of the steel line that goes from the M/C under the brake booster and then loops up the firewall above the height of the MC thus a big possibility of trapping air there.
Seems to me I should bypass the junction block and reroute the line so there are no air trap loops.

Signed Clutchless in Seattle,
well Poulsbo, close enough.
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:50 AM   #10 (permalink)
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just found this post, Its called a damper cylinder, and some have removed it but this guy had his replace with great success, I'm going to try rebuilding mine.

"The mechanic got my damper cylinder changed today, and it's working great now. He took the old one apart and found the O-rings to be "pretty much destroyed" LOL. If I had known it was just O-rings causing the problem, I could have bought new O-rings for a couple bucks instead of the $85 for the new damper cylinder. Oh well... at least it's fixed now.

The reason the other parts stores couldn't find this item-- It's listed as Damper Assy - Clutch Oil Line. NAPA asked me if that was it one time before and I told them no, it couldn't be an oil line, because the system uses brake fluid. It seems there was something lost in the translation from Japanese to English."
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Not sure if the dampener changes the ratio or not.. I'd remove it if its just a so called special feature .. I've had good luck pumping the clutch pedal and then pushing the slave rod in , then do the pump and bleed sequence as usual.. Maybe it's air trapped in the line because its curved so much, but once you displace the air pocket in the line it's all better..
I also leave the cap off so it's not pulling any vacuum ..
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Old 03-01-2013, 03:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradzuzu View Post
Not sure if the dampener changes the ratio or not.. I'd remove it if its just a so called special feature .. I've had good luck pumping the clutch pedal and then pushing the slave rod in , then do the pump and bleed sequence as usual.. Maybe it's air trapped in the line because its curved so much, but once you displace the air pocket in the line it's all better..
I also leave the cap off so it's not pulling any vacuum ..
Simple is best.
What I have found with a little more DD, is that the damper cylinder is supposed to to let the clutch dump to fast, just a safety feature, so like if you slipped off the pedal it would not engage to fast. Gonna axe that puppy this evening.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:23 AM   #13 (permalink)
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damper eliminated

Took that dang damper out, but it still was a bitch to bleed. but once done I have the firmest pedal I've ever had. Clutch action feels real nice.
I used a 10mm adapter fitting, from Napa, took out the damper and just pulled the lines together, about an inch to hook em back up.
Edelmann # 274000 (steel)
other parts stores may find it under Weatherhead 7934A (brass)
Its an inverted flair type. make sure of that when you pick it out of the bin, because bins get mixed up and there were also bubble flair types mixed in with em at the store I was at.
Now to go wheeling and see if it mysteriously loose fluid again or not.
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