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Old 07-01-2003, 02:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Broken wheel studs

I now have 2 broken wheel studs/lost bolts... the local shop says they can replace for 2 hours labor plus parts... around 150-200!

Screw that.... what do you guys suggest?

Thanks!

-Jonathan
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Old 07-01-2003, 02:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Somewhere I read that Izuzus have very soft metal on the studs ... do you break them off changing a tire?
Our 92 trooper has probably 10 studs that take a he-man to loosen. I am going to change them all out for my son one of these days. I have used anti- sieze on them .. but it does not help
Anyone else run into the soft metal studs givin out on ya?

*edit* I read this on the Vmag forum

As you know, the factory studs have a self-locking pitch and tend to lockup and break off when a wheel gets removed. Stud has an uneven pitch.

might as well change them all while the hub is off and use regular studs. IMO
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Old 07-01-2003, 03:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Shop around on that price, I was quoted ate $35 per wheel plus materials.
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Old 07-01-2003, 09:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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offtopic but, a trooper in connecticut no way. depending on where your at lets go wheelin.
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Old 07-02-2003, 07:38 AM   #5 (permalink)
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i would reccomend just changing them all over to standard american thread studs.....

just pull one of your's........go to Advance, pepBoys, etc...match it up to a similar stud and grab 24 new ones and some open end cheepo lug nuts.

problem solved....forever...................and probably more like $60 than what you were quoted.
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Old 07-02-2003, 11:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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That's all bullshit. There is no self-locking pitch to the threads, and it's not the studs that's the problem, but the nuts. If they get over-torqued, the face of the nut that seats to the wheel collapses/crushes and pinches on the studs. Then when you take them off, the threads come with em.

Replace the studs, but change out all the nuts too. Either that, or make sure they don't get over-torqued.

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Old 07-02-2003, 12:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I don't remember exact price, but under $4 a stud at O'Reillys. If you can change brake pads, you can change the studs yourself. Very easy took me about 1/2 hour to do rear wheel stud on my 90 trooper.
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Old 07-07-2003, 06:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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stud change

Good information... how did you change them? Since Ive never done this... I have no idea. Does one just knock then out from the other side with a punch? Do I need special tools?

Thanks!

Also... looks like there is some interest for wheeling and wrenching in Connecticut!

_Jonathan
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Old 07-07-2003, 06:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yup ... Hammer and punch, remove wheel and unbolt brake caliper. Turn the hub to align with small opening in backing shield, knock the stud out. I think I had to roto file opening bigger, just a little, to install new stud. Use a stack of washers or handy boxend wrench over new stud before the lugnut. tight lugnut to pull the stud in.
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Old 12-26-2004, 02:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxwell417
Yup ... Hammer and punch, remove wheel and unbolt brake caliper. Turn the hub to align with small opening in backing shield, knock the stud out. I think I had to roto file opening bigger, just a little, to install new stud. Use a stack of washers or handy boxend wrench over new stud before the lugnut. tight lugnut to pull the stud in.
Is that the same to replace them in a 93 rodeo in the front.?
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Old 12-26-2004, 07:39 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The factory Isuzu studs have a self-locking pitch and tend to lockup and break off when a wheel gets removed.
Replace using autozone studs... reccomend just changing them all over to standard american thread studs.....
that what I did on a 92 for my kid . Pretty much follow the same procedure as listed above.

I think isuzu studs are softer metal as well. POS for sure
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Old 12-28-2004, 07:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troopslinger
offtopic but, a trooper in connecticut no way. depending on where your at lets go wheelin.
I'll second that! lol but yeah about the studs, yes they do suck they break all the time, even if you go to town fair to get new tires or something you have to tell them to do it by hand. What makes it 10x worse is if you have the stock aluminum wheels, because at least for me the lugnuts would tend to loosen themselves up, and then when you go to remove the lugnut the threads are "heat locked" together and the stud breaks. I have replaced a total of 9 or 10 broken wheel studs altogether. with my steel wheels, and non-stock lugnuts on the replaced lugs however i've had better luck.
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Old 01-11-2005, 07:02 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbseven
Is that the same to replace them in a 93 rodeo in the front.?
its the same basic idea... once you get the front apart. kinda a PITA tho
remove the wheel, remove the caliper, unbolt the auto lock hub and begin disassembly. there is a threaded spacer that will come out, that has 3 little philips head screws that hold it in place. i'd reccomend using a a rotating screwdriver, the kind that rotates when its hit and has downward pressure applied to it. either that or tap the screwdriver on the screws to try and loosen them up. they can be stuck on pretty tight and you want to make sure that you dont strip them or else you will have a lotta work on your hands. once the spacer ring comes off there will be a snap ring on the end of the axle that needs to be removed. snap ring pliers wont work so a set of small flathead screwdrivers should do the trick. at this point the entire brake/hub assembly should slide off the spindle, and you'll be able to pound out the old studs and press the new ones in. i dont remember whether or not you have to unbolt the rotor but im pretty sure you dont. so good luck
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Old 01-11-2005, 09:21 PM   #14 (permalink)
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yes, you have to unbolt the rotor... that's the whole reason you have to remove the hub.
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