would 5.29 ft. and 5.38 rear gears work?

[IsuzuCrawler]

i've been playing with the idea of swaping a yota front axle in my trooper but the closest gears available are the 5.29 front and then regear my rear to 5.38. i've heard you can do this as long as they are not to far from each other, is this correct? the other options are to get a 4.56 yota front and leave the rear and have no power, or a 4.88 yota front with a 4.77 isuzu rear. any advice out there

[mlclark]

You can do it. The general rule that it is acceptable if the gears are within ~2%. The 5.38's are 1.7% greater than the 5.29's.

It also depends on what you wheel, how you wheel and how your rig is set up. You may have more problem if you are wheeling high traction surfaces, have lockers/spools and or if you are heavy on the skinny pedal. The bottom line is that the ratios are different and therefore there will be driveline bind. You just need to decide if you are going to get into trouble.

You will loose the ability to run 4wd on the street. This is another consideration if you use your rig as a DD and you need absolutely it in the winter.

Good Luck,
Michael

[IsuzuCrawler]

Thanks for the reply, i run a welded rear now , and if i do the swap i would put a lockrite in the front. i maily wheel at uwharrie and tellico on rocks, ie high traction although i am light on the gas, well most of the time, i can see where there would be driveline bind. i guess my question now is what do i risk breaking, tcase? axles? everything

Thanks
Eric

[paulevans76]

dude, what happened to that 20 dollar dana 44? It would be easier to do it with that. same gears, stronger build up potential, closer to the right width. with the yota, you gotta get spacers, longfields, alloy axles, etc to handle more than 35's. especially with a locker. I don't know what would be cheaper, but considering you got the d44 for $20, I'd stick with that. just my opinion, tho.

[bluerunner]

Originally posted by paulevans76
dude, what happened to that 20 dollar dana 44? It would be easier to do it with that. same gears, stronger build up potential, closer to the right width. with the yota, you gotta get spacers, longfields, alloy axles, etc to handle more than 35's. especially with a locker. I don't know what would be cheaper, but considering you got the d44 for $20, I'd stick with that. just my opinion, tho.

going to use a fj80 HP axle, wms-wms 63.5"/perfect. it will save $$$ on brakes, brake lines, and r&p setup. and there is no way that old d44 is stronger. oh and hopefully sell the 44. guess who talked him into this...

[IsuzuCrawler]

bluerunner pretty much summed it up i wouldn't mind a D44, but it's going to cost a lot to get one i have in working order. as with the FJ80 axle, the best things about it is that its a high pinion, the perfect width i want, third member style, tie rod on back of axle, bigger brakes, stronger birfs, and just seems like a simplier way to do it. i talked to a guy today who had one for a good price.....so maybe i'll start building up parts i've also been reading up on some of Housters write ups on them, it looks like his when together pretty well, although i wouldn't try to tackle coils like he did , just plan ol leafs with some 44044s probably. now if i could just find a lot of $$ somewhere i'll go ahead and start it

not to mention all the cutting , rotating the knukles just to get soa on the D44

Eric

[Lil Uzi]

In the high-traction 4x4 low scenario, couldn't you also mitigate the bind/discrepency by carefully adjusting tire pressures ? Maybe as little a difference as 9 psi at one axle, and 12-14psi in the other. I'll end up with 5.29 Toy front and 5.38 Uzi rear also..... Just thought about it because my front/rear tires are different brands, and MUST be different diameters.

[Bones]

ended up in the zuzu section by accident.

Thought I'd add my $0.02 worth. I run a Toyota rear and D44 front 5.29/5.38 and it's fine off road. No issues other than going through a couple 5.29 gearsets I hope to have it set up well this time, or it'll be a 60 out back.

EDIT: in Moab I did run 11 front and 8-9 rear (37 MTR's) and it didn't change much that I noticed from running them all at 9 before. Still seemed to have a lot of shifter shake while crawlin'. Now I just run 5-6 all around and notice nothing thus far this year in Disney, OK.

[paulevans76]

ohhhhh. thought you were gonna use a pickup front.

[psychobilly]

I ran 4.11 fronts and 4.56 rears for a year and a half on a DD cuz some dip shit sold me an axle that he swaped to 4.56 when I was seeking 4.11's. I know I shoulda looked inside it but the tag said 4.11 so I slaped it in and forgot about it. Any way I figured it out the first time I put it in 4 wheel in the winter and hit some bare pavement, while it didnt break anything it almost seemed like the truck had a locked up break, it had no power and pulled all over the place (but that was 55 mph) offroad you could never tell that they were different so that little bit I dont think would really matter