trooper driveshaft tech

[paulevans76]

the auto 1st gen troopers have a fixed yoke t-case output and the slip is behind the carrier bearing

on the manuals the t case output is a slip yoke style. this is a shitty design because it allows just a tiny bit of extension and wears the carrier bearing out fast after you lift. most people with some sense have a one-piece fabbed up to eliminate this problem.

now back to the auto's. any opinions on just leaving the shaft a two-piece, but running a cv after the carrier bearing and rotating the axle so that pinion is pointing at it? might be easier/cheaper to do than a one piece. i dunno the lenght of the shaft after the carrier bearing, but i wouldn't think that the angle would be any more severe than what a lot of jeeps and sami's are running. this would be with only a moderate 1-4" of lift. if you're going SOA, might as well get the one-piece.

and swapping the auto design to the manual t-case is doable, so i've heard. just have to swap some stuff from the back of the auto t-case over.

edit: aren't the trooper driveshaft u-joints 1310? would that open the door to some possible junkyard cv swaps?

that is all

[maxwell417]

Originally posted by paulevans76
the auto 1st gen troopers have a fixed yoke t-case output and the slip is behind the carrier bearing

Correct ... at least my '90 v6 at 4dr is.

on the manuals the t case output is a slip yoke style. this is a shitty design because it allows just a tiny bit of extension and wears the carrier bearing out fast after you lift. most people with some sense have a one-piece fabbed up to eliminate this problem.[/B]

On my '89 4cyl 4dr 5sp it has a fixed yoke t-case output. But on my '89RS 4 cyl 5 speed it's case output is a slip yoke style.

now back to the auto's. any opinions on just leaving the shaft a two-piece, but running a cv after the carrier bearing and rotating the axle so that pinion is pointing at it? might be easier/cheaper to do than a one piece. i dunno the lenght of the shaft after the carrier bearing, but i wouldn't think that the angle would be any more severe than what a lot of jeeps and sami's are running. this would be with only a moderate 1-4" of lift. if you're going SOA, might as well get the one-piece.[/B]

I don't know ... but, I think remember hearing one-piece drive shafts costing ~$100. reusing factory slip joint. Still haven't done this yet.

and swapping the auto design to the manual t-case is doable, so i've heard. just have to swap some stuff from the back of the auto t-case over.[/B]

I don't know about the at to manual t-case swap ....

But I definitely plan on swapping fixed yoke tranny/t-case out of my '89 4dr parts truck into my '89 RS. Should be a simple t-case/5sd for the same, plus a new rear driveshaft for the RS

[Indyguy]

For $100-200, I would just go with the one-piece driveshaft. Incorporating a CV after the carrier bearing, and then rotating the axle (and subsequently having to cut-off and relocate the spring perches) only to still be stuck with the weak link (the carrier bearing) seems like a lot of work for little gain. One benefit of the OPDS is that is simplifies things so there are less parts to worry about and replace. Ujoint-driveshaft-ujoint-slip yoke vs. ujoint-driveshaft-cv-carrier bearing-driveshaft-ujoint-slipyoke. But I'm boring and all about keeping things simple, so as always JMHO YMMV
________
Depakote Settlements

[houlster]

Originally posted by paulevans76
and swapping the auto design to the manual t-case is doable, so i've heard. just have to swap some stuff from the back of the auto t-case over.

You can swap over the rear cover/fixed output from an auto tranny t-case to the manual fairly easily. You will need to swap everything that's on the main shaft with the cover.

If you do this during a tera gear install, it is no extra work. You need to be sure and get the Tera gears for the donor auto tranny t-case though, not your manual tranny t-case.

There are 2 main differences. The number of side teeth on the gears / clutch hub are different. That is why you need the Tera kit for the donor t-case.

Also, manual tranny t-cases pre-'98 all had synchros. The auto tranny t-cases (and '98+ manuals with the axle-disconnect) did not, so you will loose these with the swap. That's really no big deal though. It just means you can't very easily shift-on-the-fly between hi and low range any more. You'll need to stop first. I like that ability, but I think most manual owners don't even know about it.

edit: aren't the trooper driveshaft u-joints 1310? would that open the door to some possible junkyard cv swaps?

They are not 1310 exactly. Dimensionally, they are very similar though. I do believe you could make them work together. The critical dimensions like cap diameter I think are the same. If you're doing a CV swap though, does it matter? You won't be mixing parts in the u-joints, but adapting the CV flange to the t-case output flange.

--Dan

[paulevans76]

cool, thanks for the info. i was just thinking out loud. i was thinking if I maybe went to chevy rear springs, I'd get new perches, so i'd have to line shit up anyways. but, with all the travel that would free up, i'd want to go to a one-piece anyways.

anyone know how far you could rotate the pinion up without worrying about oiling issues in the diff?

[mepr]

would it be vary hard to go to a single peice driveshaft whith a non lifted trooper? I would like to get rid of the carrier bearing and joint in the center of the driveshaft span.

[paulevans76]

probably wouldnt be too hard. you just have to cut/flip/reweld, or cut/fab a new crossmember where the carrier bearing is. otherwise, you'll probably have clearance problems there.

i dont know how much that crossmember matters, you may be able to do without it completely, but just to be safe, i'd at least put some 2x2 in its place.

[mepr]

yeah im thinking of swapping in the rear section of a transfer case thats a fixed yoke and getting some gears in the low rang too whell its all apart.