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Old 09-09-2004, 01:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Isuzu rodeo rear doors not opening

I just bought a 1994 rodeo for a good deal because both the rear doors don't open, have you heard of this before and is there a way to open them with out cutting the door pannels apart.
Please let me know thanks
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Old 09-09-2004, 01:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have this problem on my 95.5 Rodeo. Some times the rear doors open, some times they don't. usually if i play with the automatic door lock several times in a row, i can get them to release. I believe there is a TSB out that pertains to this, but i haven't had a chance to try to fix yet....

Quote:
Copyright 1999, ALLDATA 1-800-859-3282 3.45
Vehicle: All Technical Service Bulletins
Rear Door Doesn't Fully Unlock w/Front Power Door Lock..
BULLETIN NUMBER:
SB97-11-L005
ISSUE DATE:
MARCH 1997
GROUP:
BODY
1995.5-97 RODEO (UC) LEFT REAR DOOR DOES NOT FULLY UNLOCK WITH FRONT POWER DOOR LOCK BUTTON / KEYLESS
ENTRY; DOOR UNLOCKS MANUALLY WITH LOCK KNOB
AFFECTED VEHICLES
1995.5-97 Rodeo (UC) models produced before 12/2/96, equipped with power door locks.
SERVICE INFORMATION
Some affected vehicles may experience a condition in which the left rear door will not fully unlock when the front power door lock button or
the keyless entry transmitter button is pressed; however, it will unlock when the left rear door lock knob is used. This condition may be
caused by the left rear door bellcrank pivot coming loose from its mounting slot in the door panel.
To repair this condition, remove the existing left rear door lock bellcrank pivot and replace it with a new one (Part No. 2-90028-725-0), using
the procedure described in this Service Bulletin.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
REMOVE
1. Left Rear Door Trim Pad
^ Remove left rear door trim pad in accordance with Section 10 of appropriate Workshop Manual.
2. Waterproof Sheet
^ Peel back waterproof sheet to expose blue plastic left rear door bellcrank pivot.
Figure 1
3. Left Rear Door Bellcrank Pivot (Figure 1)
^ Disconnect white plastic bellcrank from existing bellcrank pivot.
^ Remove and discard existing bellcrank pivot.
INSTALL
Figure 2
1. Left Rear Door Bellcrank Pivot (Figure 2)
^ insert new left rear door bellcrank pivot (Part No. 2-90028-725-0) into mounting slot in door panel.
^ Secure bellcrank pivot to door panel by turning bellcrank pivot counterclockwise until pivot clicks into place and two pivot tabs on
outside of pivot are lined straight up and down.
2. Waterproof Sheet
^ Reinstall waterproof sheet to door panel.
3. Left Rear Door Trim Pad
^ Reinstall left rear door trim pad in accordance with Section 10 of appropriate Workshop Manual.
When all repairs have been completed, check for proper left rear door lock operation.
PARTS INFORMATION
Part No. Description Quantity Required
2-90028-725-0 Pivot; LH Rear Door 1
Actuator (left rear
door bellcrank pivot)
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Use the new labor operation
Labor time includes 0. 1 administrative time allowance.
-Rob
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1995.5 Isuzu Rodeo - SAS'd and SOA'd, sitting on 38x13 TSLs, D60 up front, 14bff out back, hydro assisted, dual isuzu tcases crawlin at 130:1

2002 F250 7.3L PSD 4x4 - daily driver and tow rig.
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Old 09-14-2004, 02:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i know this feeling. it is quite aggrivating. i have a 95 rodeo and the rear left door never unlocks, i have to reach back there and pull the lock up. last time the zu went to the shop, i had the mechanic shoot some silicon down there. worked fine for about 2 weeks, unlocked like it is supposed to. but it has worn off now and still never unlocks. guess its just a rodeo plague

-sep. 24th- now both rear doors want to be assholes

Last edited by RMNC4x4; 09-24-2004 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 03-06-2008, 04:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sloppy linkage/levers

Hi Folks,

On my '96 Trooper, I've had a similar problem with my rear power door lock, so maybe this will help some of you out.

It seemed like the actuator could unlock the rear door, but couldn't quite pull far enough to lock the door. A PITA when parking in a parking lot to use the key on the driver door, which locks everything but the rear door, then have to open the rear door and lock it by the knob and close it again.

I swapped the actuator with one from the L passenger door (you have to take the actuator apart and swap the levers), but this didn't help.

I elongated the rear door's actuator's mounting holes so I could adjust its position. Since it would unlock, but wouldn't lock, I adjusted its position toward the lock direction. After some fiddling with this, I was able to get the lock actuator mounted in a position where it would unlock and lock most of the time, but not very reliable.

It seemed like the actuator just didn't have a long enough stroke to get the job done. Since I'd taken the actuator apart before, I knew there was nothing to easily fiddle with to improve the stroke of the actuator, so I turned to the lock linkage that the actuator moves.

Looking more closely at this linkage inside the door, the actuator pushes a rod that moves a lever that pivots on the back of the key lock cylinder. This lever has another rod attached to it that moves another lever on the door latch assembly. The lever on the door latch assembly is what finally moves the part of the latch mechanism that locks or unlocks the door latch.

Both levers mentioned above, the one on the back of the key cylinder, and the one that's a part of the latch assembly were sloppy as he11, and I guessed that all of the slop in these levers were "eating up" the stroke of the actuator.

Fixing the lever on the latch mechanism:
This lever was assembled to the latch mechanism by a heavy rivet. I took the latch mechanism out of the door and used a heavy vise to catch the rivet between two sockets. One socket with ID just larger than the peened end of the rivet, and one socket with OD just smaller than the head of the rivet. Squeeze with the vise a little, then test, then squeeze with the vise a little more, then test. A lot of cycles like this is better than one squeeze too hard, because you only want to take up the slop in the joint. Anything beyond that will make the lever too hard to move for the actuator. It will be ruined. Perhaps the rivet could be drilled out and replaced with an appropriately sized screw and nylock nut could be used as well.

Fixing the lever on the back of the key cylinder:
This lever is fastened to the back of the cylinder with a snap ring (E-ring, or Jesus clip). The slot where the snap ring fits gets worn out and allows the lever to get all rickety. Ideally, Remove the snap ring and install an appropriate thickness shim washer, perhaps 0.5 to 0.8mm thick. Then reinstall the snap ring and test. Or, just do what I did, cut a plastic shim washer from the top of an old yogurt container or from the side of an old plastic milk jug. Softer plastic is easier to cut with an Xacto knife, but harder plastic is usually more slippery and will probably last longer as a shim. I cut a few washers before I had one I was satisfied with.

With the slop in these levers removed, and everything reassembled, I only had to get the actuator back to its original mounting position, and the electric lock/unlock works fine now.

Hope this helps...
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Old 03-08-2008, 02:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Wait, I are confused.

Do the doors not UNLOCK electrically, (like everyone is posting about) but work manually?

Or do the doors fail to OPEN, as in I pull up on the knob, but the door still won't open?

OR, the doors open from the outside, but not the inside???

There are big differences in the three scenarios above!
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Old 03-08-2008, 04:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post
Wait, I are confused.

Do the doors not UNLOCK electrically, (like everyone is posting about) but work manually?

Or do the doors fail to OPEN, as in I pull up on the knob, but the door still won't open?

OR, the doors open from the outside, but not the inside???

There are big differences in the three scenarios above!
Yeah, they're also 3+ year old posts. So what's your point?

They could possibly be about the same problem, and the various writers' vagueness in characterizing the problems are what's causing them to seem like different problems. Unfortunately, to some folks, "door won't unlock manually", "door won't unlatch", and "electric locks fail to unlock door", are all the same as "door won't open". They just don't realize the problem begs for a more complete description. Similarly, "Engine won't crank", "engine cranks but doesn't fire", and "engine cranks, starts and immediately dies" can all be reported as "engine won't start". But this is pretty much academic, since as I wrote previously, the first 3 posts of this thread are approaching 4 years old.
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Old 03-14-2008, 12:43 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I was thinking he might still have a problem with his doors

(reminds self to look at dates in the future. )
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