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Old 08-23-2011, 01:19 AM   #26 (permalink)
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how are these isuzu diesels to drive? I understand they are slow but can they run on the highway? and what about hills(not like you'd know about those lol)? I see them for sale every now and then and always wondered about them. also how is it to get parts for them?
cool build but why did you put the shackle in front?

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Old 08-23-2011, 06:43 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I have put a lot of highway miles on mine but they have all been going 55. I had the wrong radiator in it, a single row and the asshat my friend got it from dumped 2 cans of stop leak in it because the water pump was dripping (I know what an idiot right?) We changed the waterpump when my friend had it but there was still stopleak in it so it packed the rad,and would overheat easily, so that is why I could only go 55, it got so bad I had to start driving 30 on dirt roads. I did not know it had stopleak in it, and my friend thought it was the right rad so I just thought it was broke. I pulled the rad and changed it with another single row and it worked good but I still could not run faster than 65 without it getting hot. I am putting a 3 row rad in now, everyone says you should be able to run 75 with no over heating issues, but I don't know for sure. I have had it up to almost 85 shortly before it started getting hot, but honestly that is just to much rpms for these diesels, I think 65 is best, I get 37mpg at 55 with 4spd 4.10s and 27s. Hills im not sure I don't live in flatlands like in western Kansas, We do have big bluffs but still we don't have mountains. Im sure it would run 55 up most hills.

I did front shackles because they were easier and people say they are better for crawling, but they are rougher riding and not good for highspeed. I drive an Isuzu NA Diesel with 75hp its not fast by any means. But people will argue front vs rear shackle all day so its whatever.
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Old 08-23-2011, 11:44 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I had a 82 chevette that came with the 1.8 NA diesel and it ran flawlessly cross country for years untill the timing belt broke and that pretty much killed it. It never ran again. I wish I could find another to install in my samurai though.
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:49 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Yeah the Friend I got this Isuzu from has another Isuzu and a handfull of the those Chevette Diesels. The Chevettes had different engines like you said a 1.8 instead of a 2.2. Chevettes are very cool cars for sure. I love them.
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Old 08-30-2011, 02:36 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I have a bone stock 81 pup diesel/5 speed/short bed. it's fine for getting around, but it's not fast or quick. I can keep up 70 on the flats and 55ish in the mountains.
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Old 09-12-2011, 01:23 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Progress?

Just curious.Looks like you're headed in the right direction.These engines are great.I have the same drivetrain in an 85 toyota pickup 5 inch lift and 33" tires,talk about slow.But dependable!
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:49 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I've been working on my Land Rover so no progress. I have a kid due in about a month and winter is coming so im not sure how much stuff I will get done till spring. I also need to find a 2wd 5speed so I can do my divorced double toy tcases.

I Just got a RV with an Isuzu turbo diesel so now I can pull my Isuzu diesel with my Isuzu diesel, all proper like.
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:16 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I'm getting a Toyota IFS box, whenever the guy calls me that he is in town or if I have time maybe tomorrow. I already pulled the factory box. I hope the factory pump can handle the toy box Im sure I will have to have custom hoses made.

I am going to mate part of the Toyota steering shaft to the Isuzu. I am going to have to torch the body mounts off and make new ones, so i can have the steering box as far forward as possible. I hope moving the mounts towards the middle in front of the support does not let the body flex to much. I need to buy a torch so I dont have to keep using my dads stuff.

I am still going to make the steering arms at work. I hope to get my box before next weekend. If not I am going to start putting the rear axle in, and maybe pull the trans. I need to cut the front output off of the factory tcase since it does not look like I will be getting that 2wd trans anytime soon.

What do you guys think about running a divorced toy case behind my factory t-case (considering the factory t-case has a slip yoke)?

Sorry it is taking so long on this. Ive been watching the baby most evenings. I get about an hour each day right when I get home from work before I need to get the baby, I can get a lot done if it was 5 hours straight, but when you have to split it up 5 times and I have to spend 15minutes to drag the tools out, then put them away, I dont get much actual work time each day.
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:38 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:31 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I test fit the Toyota steering box tonight. I am for sure gonna have to make a flat pitman arm. Honestly I dont know if I am going to have room between the spring and the frame for the pitman arm and drag link. Let alone high steer.

I have not really set up the bump stops yet but with the factory toyota rubber bump stops only have 3 inches before they touch the frame at ride height. I have about the same room between the spring itself and the frame where the pitman arm is going to be.

So Im not sure what I should do to make this work.

1. Add a leaf or so to the springs. (I really want to keep this thing low but I think this would be the easiest route, and most people say they add leafs to toy rufs anyways).

2. Notch the frame where the drag link/pitman arm/tie rod are. (I really dont want to make the frame weak.)

3.Go Full hydro (But I want to still drive this truck on the street, I have access to everything to do this. Not sure if my factory ps pump can handle it or not though.)

4. Front half the frame with dom from the engine mounts forward. Give the frame more of an arch over the axle and steering link. (This may be the way to go because I want to do links and coils anyways eventually, and where the steering box needs to be now I will be unable to put the front mount bolt all the way through because of the front cross member.)

5. Let it set in my driveway for another 2 years and do nothing with it.

What should I do? Any more suggestions.
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:59 PM   #36 (permalink)
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What I was thinking about doing, like how the street truck guys notch their frames. If I plate the sides of the frame with 1/4"plate and plate them on top to connect them. Then I will cut the original part of excess frame underneith then plate that also.

Bad idea or not?

Here is what Im talking about, Ignore the notch under the brake line bracket that will be plated all the way across, the bracket will get cut off and welded back to the frame.
The ruler is about where the top of the flat pitman arm is going to be.



Here is how much room I have right now between the frame and spring at ride height.

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Old 04-08-2012, 08:02 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Might want to re think the shackles being in the front, they tend to "unload" when climbing, makes the front end raise up. Just my .02, cool build though.
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:23 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I will fix them when I go coils...........In about 5 years. lol.
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:51 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOORETOYX4 View Post
Might want to re think the shackles being in the front, they tend to "unload" when climbing, makes the front end raise up. Just my .02, cool build though.
Um... all front suspension will unload when climbing.

Front shackles most certainly do climb better than rear shackles. With soft springs and rear shackles (as most toyotas are setup) the front axle tries to drive out from under the vehicle, forcing the shackles vertical, and forcing the front suspension to lift.

I suspect you havent actually ran front shackles and experienced what you are trying to describe.
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Old 04-13-2012, 07:50 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Ok changed plans again. Im not doing the C notch. I am going to cut the frame a few inches in front of the engine mount and build all new in front of that.

Word.
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:11 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Been waiting on the plasma table to not be so busy, looks like its gonna be another week or so before he can slip my parts in.

In the meantime, I cut the frame off 3" in front of the mounts. My junk harbor freight cutoff wheel decided to die part way through cutting my frame away from the spring mount steel. Good thing I opted for the 1 year free replacement its only 6 months old, JUNK.

While I had the frame out I figured it was as good a time as any to pull the radiator that I need to replace anyways. My friend I got it from swore the stock rad was a single core but I dont think so. I am putting a 3 row back in. I also decided its time to change the timing belt while Im this far into it.

One question how the hell does the damn timing belt tensioner work? Does the bearing just rub on the plastic or whatever part of the spring. How does it not wear out?
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:03 AM   #42 (permalink)
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buddy of mine drove one (2wd) from richmond va to corn ok. then he got on a harvest crew and ended up stranded in montana. he bought a chevy cavalier for $500 and drove that back to oklahoma to get hes truck bought a tow dolly and towed the caviler back to va with the pup. 2 weeks later the frame rusted in half... but he was getting 48 mpgs!
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:22 AM   #43 (permalink)
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What are you using for a pitman arm to get full turn on the yota axle? Isnt the pup box like my trooper box, 5.5in center to center, a totally different spline from saginaw and toy and no pitman arms available anywhere?
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:46 AM   #44 (permalink)
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used a toyota ifs box 2 of the bolt holes matched right up
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:18 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I am using a Toyota box. I am cutting stock pitman arm and machining the splines into a donut and building my own flat pitman arm.

That is unless I get a flat arm from a friend. He got all new high steer so he is going to sell me the all pro high steer for cheap but I dont know if he got another pitman arm.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:31 PM   #46 (permalink)
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used a toyota ifs box 2 of the bolt holes matched right up
Looks like it worked good for you. There was no way I would be able to do that because my axle is moved about 4 inches forward, and also my truck sits about 6" lower.

Also there is no way because I cut my frame off.

Thanks for the pics. If you want, I can post them up for you on here.

Is yours a diesel or gasser?
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:08 PM   #47 (permalink)
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I actually got an hour or so to work on it today.

I tack welded my new front part of my frame on.

My friend decided not to sell me his highsteer, so Im back to building my own. Now that I have the frame tacked on, I need to build new front spring hangers, unless I can cut the first ones I made off.

I should be done with this thing by 2017 or so.
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