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Old 12-07-2011, 06:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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xj 4 link setup questions, need help

i am installing a 4 link on the rear of my red p.o.s. trail rig.
stats are: d60, 14b, 5.38's, lockers, 14" ori struts, 39.5 iroks, 3 link front.
so i have been looking at various 4 link charts from various xj builds and there does not seem to be any rhyme or reason to them. they are all different.
i am pretty sure that there is some science to properly setting up the angles & separation but can't figure it out. can someone chime in & school me on where & why to put the bars in a certain location? i need to start fabbing up the rear cross member & this is holding me up. thanks in advance!
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Are you going to chop the frame and back halve it? That gives you more options.

Priority 1: Make it fit.
If the links hang below the belly or axle you will get stuck on them and the geometry wont matter at that point.

Priority 2: separation at the axle end 8in min
a good rule of thump is 8in of vertical separation from the upper to lower links. This is needed for it to survive the torque loads. make sure you know your pinnion angle first or you might end up with 6in of separation after install.

Priority 3: Longer links
Longer links are good for larger wheel travel but you dont want to make them so long you get hungup on them.

Priority 4: Pinion angle.
You can have big shock but if you links bind up your pinions you cant use the travel you paid for. Longer flatter angles links help.

Priority 5: Rear link geometry.
the rear link geometry is what will hop on hill climbs the font youll have sucked down with a winch so its not as big a deal and the front has more packaging issue with steering, exaust driveshaft and motor.

On a trail rig I like mounting the rear lower link on the axle end above the axle center line to help keep the links flatter, it also really helps keep them out of the rocks.
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Check out the 4-link calculator and play around with some numbers. Do some searching around about antisquat numbers, there are some threads in general 4x4 that are really good, should be mandatory reading for all of pirate.

Make your link mounting points adjustable to change your antisquat a bit. At the very least make your uppers adjustable.

Then its just keep them flat, smooth, and long. Anything hanging below the axle tube or belly/frame will make you regret leaving it there.
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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more info:
i am using 2" od x1/4wall dom & ruffstuff 1.25 heims for all links (front & rear).
the 14b is currently completely smooth (i cut off all the old truss, shock, & leaf mounts).
i have a 4 speed atlas on order.
the rear tubes are 48" long so i can weld the adapters on after cutting to any length.
i have an artec truss sitting on the housing ready to weld on after i install the tmr shave kit first.
with the artec truss i can easily get 8" of separation in the rear. i had assumed that the lowers would be at axle cl but i can just as easily rotate the mounts upward to gain clearance.
i plan to keep the full body for now since i didnt buy ashmans rig when it was for sale, but can cut the floor out since it is a trail rig, to get the upper mounts in a good spot.
i would think the front lower mounts would be dictated by the rear driveshaft location, right?
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Old 12-08-2011, 11:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i would assume that the rear lower mounts on the axle housing should be angled inward & not mounted inline with the axle, right?
i have ruffstuff mounts but can cut them so they angle inward if that would help.
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Old 12-11-2011, 10:09 AM   #6 (permalink)
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is there any science involved in determining the width for location of the brackets?
do i just aim for as far apart as possible on the lowers on the axle & as narrow as possible on the uppers on the axle?
how about the frame end, do i want as narrow as possible on the lowers?
the uppers on the frame end will be dictated by the unibody location & where i cut the floor to raise the mounts up.
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Old 12-11-2011, 10:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knucklehead 61 View Post
is there any science involved in determining the width for location of the brackets?
do i just aim for as far apart as possible on the lowers on the axle & as narrow as possible on the uppers on the axle?
how about the frame end, do i want as narrow as possible on the lowers?
the uppers on the frame end will be dictated by the unibody location & where i cut the floor to raise the mounts up.
Yea as much triangulation as you can, but to make it fit you might be limited.

My buggy the lowers have more trangulation then the uppers so I can have more up travel. The calculator will tell you thats bad because the roll center will be a low height, but since my links are flat and the belly low, CG low it is stupid stable.

Angle your mounting tabs so they point down the link. A quick re notch.

One easy trick is to tack weld your axle to the top of the jack stand at the right pinion angle and tack the jack stand to itself so it cant wobble. Also tack weld the jackstands holding up the rig so it dosent move or wobble. Do this with the axle centered/level and it will help keep all your links the same length. The poor mans jig.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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thanks for the info ashman...
i think i can get 9" or slightly a bit more separation at the axle if i mount the lowers 1" above axle centerline. will that be enough? i plan to upgrade to 42's if that matters.
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by knucklehead 61 View Post
thanks for the info ashman...
i think i can get 9" or slightly a bit more separation at the axle if i mount the lowers 1" above axle centerline. will that be enough? i plan to upgrade to 42's if that matters.
Is that vertical separation with the Pinion pointed at the t-case, there can be a big difference from what looks like 9in of separation on jack stands with the pinnion level, once you point the pinion up you could be below 8in.
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Got any pics
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:04 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Take a look at this link and you should be able to figure it out. I messed with the 4 link calculator and at the end of the day, I went for max seperation at the axle, 9" and then the front mounts went where they fit. I have no floors and already had a cross member to attach to. I have the same set up as you but I have a 60 in the rear. I have like 6" of seperation at the frame side and my shit flexes awesome. Basically look at the pictures in the tread and put the shit where it will fit.


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...highlight=link
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