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#101 (permalink) |
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Prestige Worldwide
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38307
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 203
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Full hydro would be so much simpler, but I'm planning to drive her to the trails and have some concerns going that route on the street. What did you get your hydro boost out of? I have been planning on GM calipers up front.... not a big fan of the early Ford setup either!
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#102 (permalink) | |
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Prestige Worldwide
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38307
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 203
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Quote:
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#103 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Member # 122916
Location: California, North
Posts: 1,787
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I'd highly recommend a hydrabooser. I love mine, was well worth the effort. You'll need a addition return port to the steering reservoir, I wouldn't recommend T-ing the lines. Pressure line in and them back out to steering box or orbital. One thing you might or might not need is to mod the box for higher flow. Mine has the high flow mods but guys have got away with out having to do it.
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#104 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Member # 118003
Posts: 117
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Quote:
I run a dedicated XJ PS pump to power it as I have a 2nd pump for my steering.
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90YJ 4link F/R, SAW Airshocks, 42" TSLs, D60/14bolt, Full Hydro/Hydroboost 350SBC, TH400 NP203/D300 Last edited by JKMotorsports; 08-01-2012 at 10:10 PM. |
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#105 (permalink) |
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Prestige Worldwide
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38307
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 203
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Thanks for all the hydroboost info!!! As I can see some things getting out of hand and taking away from other aspects of a build... I'm going to use some parts that I have on hand (Strange 1.125 MC disc/disc) along with a late model dual diaphragm booster to get myself on the road. I agree that the hydroboost is definitely the ultimate road to pursue and will have to be an upgrade after she is back on the road.
Progress has been a little slow as I've been burning up the search function on several forums, but I think I'm on track for this build to hit the road next spring! Have all my adapters, clutch and hydraulics on order to get this NP435 in place.... then I can look at crossmembers and LCA mounting options. I also decided that I'll have to put in shock hoops for the rear as I just can’t seem to come up with a combo that fits under the chassis without limiting travel. So with that in mind I'll build it around fitting coilovers (without coils for now) and four link the rear at a later date.... unless these leafs impress the hell out of me!
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#107 (permalink) |
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Prestige Worldwide
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38307
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 203
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Some more progress.... even though I feel like it's going in slow motion! It looks like I will finalize the wheel base at 115"... that was a 7" stretch in the rear with a 6.5" stretch out front. Belly clearance looks to be about 22" with 24" at the frame rail, the overall height without exo looks close to 74" and the track is around 86" so I think overall Im on track with keeping her CG down low. Looks like I will extend the frame rails out front by about 4"... for the steering box relocate and hopefully a suck down winch.
Looks like I will have 6.5" to 7" bump and the rest will be in droop... obviously. The pics are with about 1.5" of bump and initial clearances look good for the 42" Pitbulls! ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#108 (permalink) |
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Prestige Worldwide
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38307
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 203
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Finishing up the Novak adapter install on the NP435 so I can get her in place and start the cross member, then I'll get after the LCA mounts at the frame.
![]() ![]() Mounted the CPS in the early bell housing... ![]()
Last edited by HRDROKN; 09-27-2012 at 07:59 AM. |
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#110 (permalink) |
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Prestige Worldwide
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38307
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 203
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NP435 finally in place...
Had some problems with getting the first gear to fit the Novak main shaft... the gear would slide about half way on then bind? I went through three shafts and decided to just replace the gear... problem solved. Then come to find out I have the wrong shift lever... the shift finger is too long, so I have a new one on the way. To add to that the top cover has cracks at each of the shift lever guide pins.... what a frigin week! ![]() ![]()
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#111 (permalink) |
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<<shrug>>
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member # 86186
Location: AZ
Posts: 373
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How I missed this build is beyond me...subscribed now tho.
Our builds are very similar. Hydro assist, 40" Rockers, D60, Corp14 shaved, 115WB, planning the same sliders, def watching.
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Junior You voted for who? ![]() ![]() YA I CLING TO MY BIBLE & GUNS ALRIGHT! Last edited by Junior F-Nis; 09-22-2012 at 07:45 PM. |
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#113 (permalink) |
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Prestige Worldwide
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38307
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 203
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Just finishing up the last bit of the three piece crossmember. It looks like drive shaft clearance will be close... if I stick with the original plan of installing a doubler I will need to add a bearing support for a two piece driveshaft. If I get the funds together for a STAK it looks (by my measure?) like it should clear... lol.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() EDIT: Added a little more to the bottom...
Last edited by HRDROKN; 09-27-2012 at 09:21 PM. |
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#115 (permalink) |
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<<shrug>>
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member # 86186
Location: AZ
Posts: 373
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Wow, damn nice work. I'll be tackling this same thing here in a couple weeks. This design is a great idea, kudo's on your fab work.
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Junior You voted for who? ![]() ![]() YA I CLING TO MY BIBLE & GUNS ALRIGHT! |
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#116 (permalink) | |
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Prestige Worldwide
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38307
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 203
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Quote:
EDIT: So what I have.... this crossmember centerline is a solid 5" further back than the stock mount and I have the front axle 6.5" forward of stock, so that's a solid 11" of additional drive shaft to the front? Of course I could always use one of Jesse's high angle CV's.... think they are good for 40+ degrees, hopefully it doesn't come to that. lol. Last edited by HRDROKN; 09-27-2012 at 09:24 PM. |
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#121 (permalink) | |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Oct 2008
Member # 121563
Posts: 617
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Quote:
Crossmember placement had nothing to do with it. The other issue I'm looking at is I had a much longer adapter than you, pushing my t-case back even further and thus lengthening my driveshaft even more. I also clocked my t-case up flat. You won't know for sure until you bolt up the t-case with the front axle in position and mock up a driveshaft. This was my setup when I picked it up (before I clocked the t-case...D20 for reference).
Last edited by moparmaniaccuda; 10-01-2012 at 07:29 AM. |
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#122 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 142612
Location: Italy
Posts: 655
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How did you reset a renix ECU?
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I speak, eat, drink and breathe JEEP. “Great people talk about ideas, average people talk about things, small people talk about other people.” Last edited by fantic238; 10-01-2012 at 07:53 AM. |
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#124 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 142612
Location: Italy
Posts: 655
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That wasn't necessary. The ECU resets with key cycling and does not store data.
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I speak, eat, drink and breathe JEEP. “Great people talk about ideas, average people talk about things, small people talk about other people.” |
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#125 (permalink) | |
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Prestige Worldwide
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38307
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 203
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Quote:
Last edited by HRDROKN; 10-01-2012 at 11:45 PM. |
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