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Old 07-29-2012, 10:48 PM   #101 (permalink)
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i am only 105.5" w.b.

are you planning full hydro?
if not, you may want to reconsider it with your 42's.
i also run hydro assist brakes, although my front brakes are shit '79 ford junk.
i plan to swap in chevy calipers on tmr's new brackets.
Full hydro would be so much simpler, but I'm planning to drive her to the trails and have some concerns going that route on the street. What did you get your hydro boost out of? I have been planning on GM calipers up front.... not a big fan of the early Ford setup either!
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:19 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Full hydro would be so much simpler, but I'm planning to drive her to the trails and have some concerns going that route on the street. What did you get your hydro boost out of? I have been planning on GM calipers up front.... not a big fan of the early Ford setup either!
Just remembered that I have my F350/F450 hydroboost from my previous project... just wondering what others have done as I haven't heard much talk of hydroboost?

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Old 08-01-2012, 09:14 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Just remembered that I have my F350/F450 hydroboost from my previous project... just wondering what others have done as I haven't heard much talk of hydroboost?

I'd highly recommend a hydrabooser. I love mine, was well worth the effort. You'll need a addition return port to the steering reservoir, I wouldn't recommend T-ing the lines. Pressure line in and them back out to steering box or orbital. One thing you might or might not need is to mod the box for higher flow. Mine has the high flow mods but guys have got away with out having to do it.
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Old 08-01-2012, 10:09 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Just remembered that I have my F350/F450 hydroboost from my previous project... just wondering what others have done as I haven't heard much talk of hydroboost?

I run a 90's Astro Van. Bolted right in with the exception of the pushrod length which I cut, threaded and adapted to my original pedal.
I run a dedicated XJ PS pump to power it as I have a 2nd pump for my steering.
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Old 08-19-2012, 02:57 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the hydroboost info!!! As I can see some things getting out of hand and taking away from other aspects of a build... I'm going to use some parts that I have on hand (Strange 1.125 MC disc/disc) along with a late model dual diaphragm booster to get myself on the road. I agree that the hydroboost is definitely the ultimate road to pursue and will have to be an upgrade after she is back on the road.

Progress has been a little slow as I've been burning up the search function on several forums, but I think I'm on track for this build to hit the road next spring!

Have all my adapters, clutch and hydraulics on order to get this NP435 in place.... then I can look at crossmembers and LCA mounting options.

I also decided that I'll have to put in shock hoops for the rear as I just can’t seem to come up with a combo that fits under the chassis without limiting travel. So with that in mind I'll build it around fitting coilovers (without coils for now) and four link the rear at a later date.... unless these leafs impress the hell out of me!

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Old 08-27-2012, 10:50 AM   #106 (permalink)
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Still hacking away at the project...

Was able to get some pre-fitment going with the CO hoops up front. Then they will come back off to finish the uni-body plating...









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Old 09-08-2012, 08:53 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Some more progress.... even though I feel like it's going in slow motion! It looks like I will finalize the wheel base at 115"... that was a 7" stretch in the rear with a 6.5" stretch out front. Belly clearance looks to be about 22" with 24" at the frame rail, the overall height without exo looks close to 74" and the track is around 86" so I think overall Im on track with keeping her CG down low. Looks like I will extend the frame rails out front by about 4"... for the steering box relocate and hopefully a suck down winch.

Looks like I will have 6.5" to 7" bump and the rest will be in droop... obviously. The pics are with about 1.5" of bump and initial clearances look good for the 42" Pitbulls!







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Old 09-19-2012, 05:37 AM   #108 (permalink)
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Finishing up the Novak adapter install on the NP435 so I can get her in place and start the cross member, then I'll get after the LCA mounts at the frame.





Mounted the CPS in the early bell housing...



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Old 09-19-2012, 05:53 AM   #109 (permalink)
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Very clean.

Nice job.
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Old 09-22-2012, 10:37 AM   #110 (permalink)
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NP435 finally in place...

Had some problems with getting the first gear to fit the Novak main shaft... the gear would slide about half way on then bind? I went through three shafts and decided to just replace the gear... problem solved. Then come to find out I have the wrong shift lever... the shift finger is too long, so I have a new one on the way. To add to that the top cover has cracks at each of the shift lever guide pins.... what a frigin week!





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Old 09-22-2012, 12:56 PM   #111 (permalink)
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How I missed this build is beyond me...subscribed now tho.

Our builds are very similar. Hydro assist, 40" Rockers, D60, Corp14 shaved, 115WB, planning the same sliders, def watching.
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Old 09-24-2012, 03:33 PM   #112 (permalink)
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'90 MJ SB. Renix/AX-15/231 ChryCo8.25 Rear D30 Front. 4" Budget Lift on 32"s.
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Old 09-27-2012, 05:43 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Just finishing up the last bit of the three piece crossmember. It looks like drive shaft clearance will be close... if I stick with the original plan of installing a doubler I will need to add a bearing support for a two piece driveshaft. If I get the funds together for a STAK it looks (by my measure?) like it should clear... lol.









EDIT: Added a little more to the bottom...

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Old 09-27-2012, 06:02 PM   #114 (permalink)
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If you use a CV front driveshaft, I'm betting it binds. I could only pull ~9" of travel out of my front end and I didn't have such a short adapter.

Just saying I'd check that next.
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:58 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Wow, damn nice work. I'll be tackling this same thing here in a couple weeks. This design is a great idea, kudo's on your fab work.
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:07 PM   #116 (permalink)
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If you use a CV front driveshaft, I'm betting it binds. I could only pull ~9" of travel out of my front end and I didn't have such a short adapter.

Just saying I'd check that next.
How much did you stretch your front wheel base???

EDIT: So what I have.... this crossmember centerline is a solid 5" further back than the stock mount and I have the front axle 6.5" forward of stock, so that's a solid 11" of additional drive shaft to the front?

Of course I could always use one of Jesse's high angle CV's.... think they are good for 40+ degrees, hopefully it doesn't come to that. lol.
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:08 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Wow, damn nice work. I'll be tackling this same thing here in a couple weeks. This design is a great idea, kudo's on your fab work.
Thanks brother!
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:48 PM   #118 (permalink)
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will be looking forward to seeing your frt fender flares since I'll be doing mine also.chevy daully 60 frt hd70 daully.awesome build..
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:12 AM   #119 (permalink)
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Lookin good there sir, keep up the good work.
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:39 AM   #120 (permalink)
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are you still using 1310 joints on the shafts?
if so, use 1330 H block & cardan joint with 1310 end joints.
that gives you a few more degrees of driveline angle before death.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:28 AM   #121 (permalink)
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How much did you stretch your front wheel base???

EDIT: So what I have.... this crossmember centerline is a solid 5" further back than the stock mount and I have the front axle 6.5" forward of stock, so that's a solid 11" of additional drive shaft to the front?

Of course I could always use one of Jesse's high angle CV's.... think they are good for 40+ degrees, hopefully it doesn't come to that. lol.
Stretched mine about 2-3".

Crossmember placement had nothing to do with it.

The other issue I'm looking at is I had a much longer adapter than you, pushing my t-case back even further and thus lengthening my driveshaft even more. I also clocked my t-case up flat.

You won't know for sure until you bolt up the t-case with the front axle in position and mock up a driveshaft.

This was my setup when I picked it up (before I clocked the t-case...D20 for reference).


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Old 10-01-2012, 07:36 AM   #122 (permalink)
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Last week I installed some "Neon" injectors and reset the ECU...


Cold starts are still a little funky, but throttle response and idle quality are way better!

How did you reset a renix ECU?
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:19 AM   #123 (permalink)
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How did you reset a renix ECU?
Disconnect both battery cables and touch them together for 10 seconds IIRC!
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:51 AM   #124 (permalink)
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Disconnect both battery cables and touch them together for 10 seconds IIRC!
That wasn't necessary. The ECU resets with key cycling and does not store data.
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:30 AM   #125 (permalink)
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That wasn't necessary. The ECU resets with key cycling and does not store data.
If you know so fuckin much then why ask me the question! EDIT: (rhetorical question)

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