Project:Grander! My 5.9 totting beast

[PilotGuyZJ]

Ya I used stock t case gearing. I don't know anyone that used a tera kit with an input swap.

not much ZJ stuff on here but mallcrawlin.com and nagca.com both are zj specific. I've been on both for about 6 years.

[PilotGuyZJ]

well, small progress, but progess. I got every peice of tubing and body re coated with bedliner and paint. They were showing some serious rock rash from the past few trips. And since its sitting so much these days, I figured it would get some love.

Then I stretched the wheelbase an inch. (all rear arms). Luckily I had a lift to use. So I pulled it in on it, supported the rear end, and did the bottom two first. Theres still 1 - 1.5 inches of thread engagement so I could go further, but feel happy where its at. The uppers took a bit of trial and error to get the pinion angle right again. I had to sit it on the ground a few times, and readjust.

Im trying to get it ready for the 36" Iroks going on it. (they measure 36.8) I may add threaded tube inserts and 1.25 johnny joints to the front arms as well if I need to push the wheelbase out any more. The front are fixed length now. I'll know more when I fit the tires.

Then I FINALLY got around to welding the rear tube doors in place. They are nice and solid. =)

Heres how shes sitting these days

[PilotGuyZJ]

Oh and I forgot to add, I got my orders for after flight school, I will going back to TEXAS! Good old fort hood again. Cant wait! Oh and if i didnt say it already, Im flying Chinooks (CH47F). Its a bad beast!



and the cockpit. Its a beauty, all glass, moving maps, ect

[PilotGuyZJ]

Did some work today. Got around to putting a steering box brace on it. I broke the mounting ears off of two stock boxes before putting in my PSC. And i really dont ever wanna break the ears off this one. So this is what I came up with. (since a store bought costs over $100.... WTF? )

I used 2x2 3/16 for the brackets, and 3/4 tube for the cross brace. The brackets use the old stock sway bar mounting holes. I used two bolts per side, most braces ive seen only used one, but I figure why put all that stress on one bolt per side.

Brackets....



Here's the tube mocked into place. It fits perfect, right over the hump in the lower radiator hose.



For the clamp around the sector shaft/ steering box snout, I used a 2 inch exhaust clamp.

Mock up



and a 3/16th plate will fill in the gap and tie the cross tube in with the clamp....



heres what it looks like pre'welding laying out.






Not bad for an hours work. (including running to the store). All in all, it cost me $30. Thats a steal for the added peice of mind that my steering box bolts arent the sole support any more. Im pretty happy with it.

[GreatWhiteXJ]

Hmmm...thats pretty clevar. Nice idea!

[PilotGuyZJ]

Originally Posted by greatwhitexj

hmmm...thats pretty clevar. Nice idea!

Thanks!

[adamusmc2002]

pretty cool idea...I used to fix those birds in the marine corps...thought they were getting replaced by the osprey (?).

[PilotGuyZJ]

Originally Posted by adamusmc2002

pretty cool idea...I used to fix those birds in the marine corps...thought they were getting replaced by the osprey (?).

Marines do in fact use the osprey now. The Army is still rocking the Chinook, and has just come out with the fox model recently. Hence all the upgrades.

[dcorn]

Damn dude, that's an awesomely simple idea for the steering box. I need to do that asap.

[PilotGuyZJ]

Originally Posted by dcorn

Damn dude, that's an awesomely simple idea for the steering box. I need to do that asap.

Aint it?

[PilotGuyZJ]

Well, got some more time today. Also got a new toy!!!



So heres the progress on the steering box brace.

Got the outter brackets bolted in, the measured the center tube. Tacked it in and removed for final welding. Then bolted it back in the measure and cut the clamp tie in plates. once I had them cut I removed it AGAIN, and did the finish welding.



I went back and forth over using one peice of 1/8 inch and calling it good, or using two. After thinking I went with two. Figured i'd feel better about it down the road.



looks like this now...



Heres how it clears the passenger side, and radiator hose



and heres a close up of how it all mounted together.



I ran it through a few steering cycles, and that things not going ANYWHERE. And the pitman arm clears through the whole range of movement.

Not bad at all for 35$. It was my first project on the new welder, so the welds with keep getting better and better.

[andrewmacc]

Originally Posted by PilotGuyZJ

Not bad at all for 35$. It was my first project on the new welder, so the welds with keep getting better and better.

Yeah the welds are pretty bad. But it's a good idea for a first project. Nothing structural, or anything that will be recovered from. I guess the exhaust clamp will be strong enough, my first thought was that the stamped steel portion of it won't be enough, but it just holds it steady.

Good job.

[PilotGuyZJ]

Originally Posted by andrewmacc

Yeah the welds are pretty bad. But it's a good idea for a first project. Nothing structural, or anything that will be recovered from. I guess the exhaust clamp will be strong enough, my first thought was that the stamped steel portion of it won't be enough, but it just holds it steady.

Good job.

haha, thanks man. Yea, the welds on the outter brackets around the tube were coming out nice. Once I moved to the plate on the clamp, all the angles were funny, and basically I sucked. I'll get better with time, right now I like everything nice and even and perfect postition, like that ever happens right?

As far as the clamp, ya, it just holds it. I mean, for years its never moved with just the 3 steering box bolts holding it, so now its even more less likely to move, right? just peace of mind.

[Tattooboy12]

Awesome work on the jogging & I just noticed where you are at in your miles for the year! You are zooming right along & should definitely make.




College Party Themes

[UTChavok]

Good idea on the brace with the exhaust clamp. I cut up some .250 wall tube that was the same ID as the OD of the box, took a little longer wish I saw this first! I like the ZJ.

[PilotGuyZJ]

Alright so time for a long overdue update. Flight school is done, and I'm now back in central texas at Fort Hood. So I am starting about 6 projects all at once. My brother in law owns a shop outside of fort worth called "trendsetters offroad" and is helping me out with the tube bending. We started a full exo that will tie into the sliders and front and rear bumpers. which are all welded to the chassis in about 9 places. Including sleeves into the "frame". It will also have a harness bar running between the B pillars and a dash bar running inside over the top of the dash with a grab bar for the passenger. That should give it some nice support through the center of the body. The tube is all 1 3/4 .120 wall.

Heres some progress shots. We started with the front fenders, which due to how many compound bends turned out to be a pain in the A@@.







We cut the slider ends off and used 1.5 inch to slug it, and then joined the hoops. Sliders are 1.75 .120 as well.

Then we started up the hood. We tried multiple times to make it up over the hood and down the roof line with one stick of tube. It was gonna look sick and have a nice smooth tube to brush off any obsticles. Our bending was just not up to it and we had to settle for two pieces. Where the bumper meets the cage, there is a small triangle that's open right now, it will be plated with 1/4 inch.



Also the hood line and the over fender will be tied together with either one or two pieces of tube. Not sure yet, well see how it looks all done.

And finally we started on the rear, but had to call it a weekend. We're gonna try to finish it this Friday and Saturday.



The rear will come down and tie into the bumper as well. Then we will go up the B, C, and rear quarter as well to the roof bar.

Also heres a shot of the harness bar. It will be about 2 inches higher than this to keep it off the back seaters knees.



At the same time all of this is going on, I removed about 6 inches of bumper behind the rear tires and cut into the rear quarters by the gas filler neck and the passenger side. Not really a comp cut, but you get the idea. Im making room for 38.5s and 1 tons. I am going to push the axle back about 1.5-2 inches and use the cage as a new wheel well. The drives side was fine, inside the passenger side we have to make a new 16g or 18g inner fender.

Also took the taillights off and ordered 6.5 inch oval LED stop/tail lights and a 2inch amber LED for a turn indicator. Going to make a 1/8 inch plate off the rear upright and put them in the factory location next to the tail gate.

Lastly, I ditched the rear glass and ordered 24x18 inch black window nets from summit racing which conveniently fit the rear windows perfectly. Got rid of the glass for a safety reason if I flop it now, and also helped get some airflow through the rear. More pics too come.

[pennsylvaniaboy]

i am going to repeat what ashman said....boatside that sucker. it may not seem like much to gain 6" a side and 2" on the bottom....but from a guy who did boatsides.....one of the best mods I ever did.

[PilotGuyZJ]

Well heres the thing. Ive never been high centered, not even close, and not once I have teeter tottered on my rockers. Maybe once an outing I will hit a slider, and that's on 35's. Im not going to be any where NEAR the rockers on 38.5's. So especially now with the whole cage based off the sliders, im not going to scrap everything to boat side it. Just not into it. But thanks for the reply.

[Exxon Valdez Jeep]

Maybe I'll see you around somwhere, nice rig!