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Old 04-27-2012, 10:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Lets see your driveshafts.

The title says it.
Lets see em.
Material used, yokes, lengths.
What broke, what didnt.
Square, round.
Homemade, bought

Will post mine when done. Still trying to find good material.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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2.5 inch schedule 40 poop tube with 1310 joints at both ends. About as strong as my front as my square shaft but a little better. Never been driven over 40mph and works great.
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Old 04-28-2012, 06:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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2.5 inch schedule 40 poop tube with 1310 joints at both ends. About as strong as my front as my square shaft but a little better. Never been driven over 40mph and works great.
what was your process of cutting it up and how did you keep it straight?I need to lengthen mine.
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Front: - too long to measure- 2" .250 wall square with inner squre slip- 1330 yoke on axle end and double carden on the tcase( this is to a doubler)

Rear is 2.5" from a ford thunderbird - dounble carden at tacase with a flange and a 1330 from ford aswell on axle with a 1350 crossjoint to the 14 bolt.
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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wondering -- why is a ratchet ziptied to you shock??
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
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wondering -- why is a ratchet ziptied to you shock??
I believe its just a socket left on the head of the shocks bolt. The other one's hanging down so he's probably either installing or removing them.
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Na, you are both wrong. Its a 1/2" lug nut screwed to a shock stud. It'll probably, eventually be swapped out with a fine thread nylon lock nut . The hose clamps are holding the brake hoses to the shock bodies.

red-gt'r, will you PM me a quote for a drive shaft? 1310 CV. Also interested in possibly a 1350 CV. Thanks.

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Old 05-04-2012, 12:25 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Na, you are both wrong. Its a 1/2" lug nut screwed to a shock stud. It'll probably, eventually be swapped out with a fine thread nylon lock nut . The hose clamps are holding the brake hoses to the shock bodies.

red-gt'r, will you PM me a quote for a drive shaft? 1310 CV. Also interested in possibly a 1350 CV. Thanks.
PM sent.
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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A piece of 1 3/4 .120 wall tube fits inside of a stock Cherokee front drive shaft.
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:32 AM   #11 (permalink)
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A piece of 1 3/4 .120 wall tube fits inside of a stock Cherokee front drive shaft.
Is there a seam on the inside of the shaft where it was welded?
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:26 AM   #12 (permalink)
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1350s all around, including the CV.

2 x .120 DOM.

Somewhere in the 40" range (can't remember). 2.5" slip/stub.

Haven't tested it out yet. Hopefully it holds up decent. Rear will be the same thing.






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Old 05-11-2012, 11:51 AM   #13 (permalink)
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When engineering your drive shafts, only fabricated them as strong the inputs/outputs on your gear box and housings, as a failure in either of those departments would put you out.
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Old 05-11-2012, 12:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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When engineering your drive shafts, only fabricated them as strong the inputs/outputs on your gear box and housings, as a failure in either of those departments would put you out.
I would engineer everything to be as strong as is reasonable when compared to tire size/power.

Driveshafts shouldn't be fuses/weak links IMO. If having the correctly sized driveshaft means your tcase will be a weaklink, that's a sign to upgrade your tcase.
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Old 05-11-2012, 01:39 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I would engineer everything to be as strong as is reasonable when compared to tire size/power.

Driveshafts shouldn't be fuses/weak links IMO. If having the correctly sized driveshaft means your tcase will be a weaklink, that's a sign to upgrade your tcase.
I agree 100%. Built it not to break. Upgrade your part accordingly and with in reason. After I upgrade my T-case, I'll re do my shafts, but in the mean time Ima take my rig out and have some fun. A 1410 driveshaft and np231j would be IMO. But I have no real world experience and might be completely wrong. Any body run that setup?
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Old 05-11-2012, 01:55 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xj9140 View Post
I agree 100%. Built it not to break. Upgrade your part accordingly and with in reason. After I upgrade my T-case, I'll re do my shafts, but in the mean time Ima take my rig out and have some fun. A 1410 driveshaft and np231j would be IMO. But I have no real world experience and might be completely wrong. Any body run that setup?
Not that particular set up, but I can tell you it is completely possible to snap the output a 231J using a bone stock driveshaft with 1310 ujoints.
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:46 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Yes there is a welded seam on the inside of the drive shaft. Just gind a slit in the tube and bang it in.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:08 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I have a super budget, and "custom" drive shaft.

It starts at the axle with a $22 1410 yoke welded to a piece of 2" poop pipe. I then slid a stock YJ splined slip on the end and welded it together. The other end is the slip part of the YJ shaft with a 1310 yoke welded on to the end of that (the one on the YJ shaft was broken). 1310-1330 u-joint at the t-case. It's ghetto, but I think I have under $50 into this thing, and it's been working for a good while now.





EDIT: the one above is the rear. The front shaft is off of a 1990ish Ford F350. 100% bolt in...absolutely 0 modifications to make it work for my application. It was also free.
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:36 PM   #19 (permalink)
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1310cv, stock frt xj slip, 2.25x.25 dom tube

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Old 05-15-2012, 05:04 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Show me some front shafts, guys. I shortened a stocker, but with a D300 and not having cut and turned my front, my angle is brruuutal.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:50 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Back to the top in need of advice. I'm going to run a D300 and have two front yokes from a 231 and some spare front shafts to modify for mock up. My question is what is everyone doing on the axle side? Is everyone just getting a u-joint that goes from the stock shaft to the D60 yoke? Or are you buying new yokes for the axles?
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:18 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I upped mine to 1330, but was running 1310/1330 cross joint without issues, but just desides to upgrade, u will be fine with a cross joint

FROM THE EMPTY BOTTLE!
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Old 05-21-2012, 02:46 PM   #23 (permalink)
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stock cherokee front slip shafts 1.25" don't take a lot of torque before they twist off.



1 3/8" slip with a forged yoke and no worries yet
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Old 05-21-2012, 03:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Not the way I like to go about things but all this 1310-1330 has me lost. Talked to the local custom drive shaft place a town over. He said not to go 1330 because they have much less angle. He suggested 1310 or 1350. Mine will see 6 hour drives to go wheel so I'll post up what he makes me. God do I hate putting up the white flag but I hate braking more.
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Old 05-21-2012, 04:29 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I used the yoke that came with my sterling and d60 for my shafts.
1330s I believe.
1.75 hrew tube 1330 at axle 1310 at trans

I hacked my old dana 60 slip shaft and stock front xj shaft for the front. Temporary until I get some square tube or get one made.
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