Lets see your driveshafts. - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

frankensteinxj · 04-27-2012, 10:40 PM

The title says it.
Lets see em.
Material used, yokes, lengths.
What broke, what didnt.
Square, round.
Homemade, bought

Will post mine when done. Still trying to find good material.

sandaddik2 · 04-27-2012, 10:46 PM

2.5 inch schedule 40 poop tube with 1310 joints at both ends. About as strong as my front as my square shaft but a little better. Never been driven over 40mph and works great.

littledeviltj · 04-28-2012, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandaddik2

2.5 inch schedule 40 poop tube with 1310 joints at both ends. About as strong as my front as my square shaft but a little better. Never been driven over 40mph and works great.

what was your process of cutting it up and how did you keep it straight?I need to lengthen mine.

DRICH394 · 04-28-2012, 10:53 PM

Front: - too long to measure- 2" .250 wall square with inner squre slip- 1330 yoke on axle end and double carden on the tcase( this is to a doubler)

Rear is 2.5" from a ford thunderbird

- dounble carden at tacase with a flange and a 1330 from ford aswell on axle with a 1350 crossjoint to the 14 bolt.

xj9140 · 04-29-2012, 05:23 PM

I sleeved a stocker.

DRICH394 · 04-29-2012, 05:36 PM

wondering -- why is a ratchet ziptied to you shock??

red-gt'r · 05-03-2012, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRICH394

wondering -- why is a ratchet ziptied to you shock??

I believe its just a socket left on the head of the shocks bolt. The other one's hanging down so he's probably either installing or removing them.

xj9140 · 05-03-2012, 02:42 PM

Na, you are both wrong. Its a 1/2" lug nut screwed to a shock stud. It'll probably, eventually be swapped out with a fine thread nylon lock nut . The hose clamps are holding the brake hoses to the shock bodies.

red-gt'r, will you PM me a quote for a drive shaft? 1310 CV. Also interested in possibly a 1350 CV. Thanks.

red-gt'r · 05-04-2012, 12:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xj9140

Na, you are both wrong. Its a 1/2" lug nut screwed to a shock stud. It'll probably, eventually be swapped out with a fine thread nylon lock nut . The hose clamps are holding the brake hoses to the shock bodies.

red-gt'r, will you PM me a quote for a drive shaft? 1310 CV. Also interested in possibly a 1350 CV. Thanks.

PM sent.

hdcherokee · 05-10-2012, 09:09 PM

A piece of 1 3/4 .120 wall tube fits inside of a stock Cherokee front drive shaft.

littledeviltj · 05-11-2012, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hdcherokee

A piece of 1 3/4 .120 wall tube fits inside of a stock Cherokee front drive shaft.

Is there a seam on the inside of the shaft where it was welded?

moparmaniaccuda · 05-11-2012, 10:26 AM

1350s all around, including the CV.

2 x .120 DOM.

Somewhere in the 40" range (can't remember). 2.5" slip/stub.

Haven't tested it out yet. Hopefully it holds up decent. Rear will be the same thing.

xj9140 · 05-11-2012, 11:51 AM

When engineering your drive shafts, only fabricated them as strong the inputs/outputs on your gear box and housings, as a failure in either of those departments would put you out.

moparmaniaccuda · 05-11-2012, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xj9140

When engineering your drive shafts, only fabricated them as strong the inputs/outputs on your gear box and housings, as a failure in either of those departments would put you out.

I would engineer everything to be as strong as is reasonable when compared to tire size/power.

Driveshafts shouldn't be fuses/weak links IMO. If having the correctly sized driveshaft means your tcase will be a weaklink, that's a sign to upgrade your tcase.

xj9140 · 05-11-2012, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moparmaniaccuda

I would engineer everything to be as strong as is reasonable when compared to tire size/power.

Driveshafts shouldn't be fuses/weak links IMO. If having the correctly sized driveshaft means your tcase will be a weaklink, that's a sign to upgrade your tcase.

I agree 100%. Built it not to break. Upgrade your part accordingly and with in reason. After I upgrade my T-case, I'll re do my shafts, but in the mean time Ima take my rig out and have some fun. A 1410 driveshaft and np231j would be

IMO. But I have no real world experience and might be completely wrong. Any body run that setup?

Georgia boy '88 · 05-11-2012, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xj9140

I agree 100%. Built it not to break. Upgrade your part accordingly and with in reason. After I upgrade my T-case, I'll re do my shafts, but in the mean time Ima take my rig out and have some fun. A 1410 driveshaft and np231j would be

IMO. But I have no real world experience and might be completely wrong. Any body run that setup?

Not that particular set up, but I can tell you it is completely possible to snap the output a 231J using a bone stock driveshaft with 1310 ujoints.

hdcherokee · 05-11-2012, 09:46 PM

Yes there is a welded seam on the inside of the drive shaft. Just gind a slit in the tube and bang it in.

Twisty · 05-12-2012, 10:08 AM

I have a super budget, and "custom" drive shaft.

It starts at the axle with a $22 1410 yoke welded to a piece of 2" poop pipe. I then slid a stock YJ splined slip on the end and welded it together. The other end is the slip part of the YJ shaft with a 1310 yoke welded on to the end of that (the one on the YJ shaft was broken). 1310-1330 u-joint at the t-case. It's ghetto, but I think I have under $50 into this thing, and it's been working for a good while now.

EDIT: the one above is the rear. The front shaft is off of a 1990ish Ford F350. 100% bolt in...absolutely 0 modifications to make it work for my application. It was also free.

robz95xj · 05-14-2012, 07:36 PM

1310cv, stock frt xj slip, 2.25x.25 dom tube

andrewmacc · 05-15-2012, 05:04 PM

Show me some front shafts, guys. I shortened a stocker, but with a D300 and not having cut and turned my front, my angle is brruuutal.

GeneticDisposition · 05-21-2012, 09:50 AM

Back to the top in need of advice. I'm going to run a D300 and have two front yokes from a 231 and some spare front shafts to modify for mock up. My question is what is everyone doing on the axle side? Is everyone just getting a u-joint that goes from the stock shaft to the D60 yoke? Or are you buying new yokes for the axles?

DRICH394 · 05-21-2012, 11:18 AM

I upped mine to 1330, but was running 1310/1330 cross joint without issues, but just desides to upgrade, u will be fine with a cross joint

FROM THE EMPTY BOTTLE!

Gravy · 05-21-2012, 02:46 PM

stock cherokee front slip shafts 1.25" don't take a lot of torque before they twist off.

1 3/8" slip with a forged yoke and no worries yet

GeneticDisposition · 05-21-2012, 03:08 PM

Not the way I like to go about things but all this 1310-1330 has me lost. Talked to the local custom drive shaft place a town over. He said not to go 1330 because they have much less angle. He suggested 1310 or 1350. Mine will see 6 hour drives to go wheel so I'll post up what he makes me. God do I hate putting up the white flag but I hate braking more.

frankensteinxj · 05-21-2012, 04:29 PM

I used the yoke that came with my sterling and d60 for my shafts.
1330s I believe.
1.75 hrew tube 1330 at axle 1310 at trans

I hacked my old dana 60 slip shaft and stock front xj shaft for the front. Temporary until I get some square tube or get one made.

04-27-2012, 10:40 PM	#1 (permalink)
frankensteinxj Registered User Join Date: Feb 2011 Member # 184176 Location: Goshen, OH Posts: 698	Lets see your driveshafts. The title says it. Lets see em. Material used, yokes, lengths. What broke, what didnt. Square, round. Homemade, bought Will post mine when done. Still trying to find good material. __________________ [SIZE="4"][COLOR="Red"]Id rather go fishing for a day than to have crabs for a life.[/COLOR][/SIZE]

04-28-2012, 10:53 PM	#4 (permalink)
DRICH394 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Member # 140225 Location: Hampton, Ga. Posts: 246	Front: - too long to measure- 2" .250 wall square with inner squre slip- 1330 yoke on axle end and double carden on the tcase( this is to a doubler) Rear is 2.5" from a ford thunderbird - dounble carden at tacase with a flange and a 1330 from ford aswell on axle with a 1350 crossjoint to the 14 bolt. __________________ 1 Ton Roll-bucket; MGO Last edited by DRICH394; 04-28-2012 at 10:53 PM.

04-29-2012, 05:23 PM	#5 (permalink)
xj9140 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Member # 122916 Location: California, North Posts: 1,787	I sleeved a stocker. Attached Images

04-29-2012, 05:36 PM	#6 (permalink)
DRICH394 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Member # 140225 Location: Hampton, Ga. Posts: 246	wondering -- why is a ratchet ziptied to you shock?? __________________ 1 Ton Roll-bucket; MGO

05-03-2012, 02:42 PM	#8 (permalink)
xj9140 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Member # 122916 Location: California, North Posts: 1,787	Na, you are both wrong. Its a 1/2" lug nut screwed to a shock stud. It'll probably, eventually be swapped out with a fine thread nylon lock nut . The hose clamps are holding the brake hoses to the shock bodies. red-gt'r, will you PM me a quote for a drive shaft? 1310 CV. Also interested in possibly a 1350 CV. Thanks. Last edited by xj9140; 05-03-2012 at 02:58 PM.

04-27-2012, 10:46 PM	#2 (permalink)
sandaddik2 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Member # 144152 Location: Hesperia Posts: 962	2.5 inch schedule 40 poop tube with 1310 joints at both ends. About as strong as my front as my square shaft but a little better. Never been driven over 40mph and works great.

05-10-2012, 09:09 PM	#10 (permalink)
hdcherokee Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Member # 73797 Location: beachwood,nj Posts: 96	A piece of 1 3/4 .120 wall tube fits inside of a stock Cherokee front drive shaft.

05-11-2012, 10:26 AM	#12 (permalink)
moparmaniaccuda Granite Guru Join Date: Oct 2008 Member # 121563 Posts: 617	1350s all around, including the CV. 2 x .120 DOM. Somewhere in the 40" range (can't remember). 2.5" slip/stub. Haven't tested it out yet. Hopefully it holds up decent. Rear will be the same thing. Last edited by moparmaniaccuda; 05-11-2012 at 10:27 AM.

05-11-2012, 11:51 AM	#13 (permalink)
xj9140 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Member # 122916 Location: California, North Posts: 1,787	When engineering your drive shafts, only fabricated them as strong the inputs/outputs on your gear box and housings, as a failure in either of those departments would put you out.

05-11-2012, 09:46 PM	#17 (permalink)
hdcherokee Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Member # 73797 Location: beachwood,nj Posts: 96	Yes there is a welded seam on the inside of the drive shaft. Just gind a slit in the tube and bang it in.

05-12-2012, 10:08 AM	#18 (permalink)
Twisty Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Member # 97798 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 595	I have a super budget, and "custom" drive shaft. It starts at the axle with a $22 1410 yoke welded to a piece of 2" poop pipe. I then slid a stock YJ splined slip on the end and welded it together. The other end is the slip part of the YJ shaft with a 1310 yoke welded on to the end of that (the one on the YJ shaft was broken). 1310-1330 u-joint at the t-case. It's ghetto, but I think I have under $50 into this thing, and it's been working for a good while now. EDIT: the one above is the rear. The front shaft is off of a 1990ish Ford F350. 100% bolt in...absolutely 0 modifications to make it work for my application. It was also free. __________________ 88 MJ buggy - D60/14b, 3&4 link, air shocks, 203/205, 5.38s, full hydro newenglandjeepz.org Last edited by Twisty; 05-12-2012 at 10:10 AM.

05-14-2012, 07:36 PM	#19 (permalink)
robz95xj Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Member # 56034 Location: Keene NH Posts: 38	1310cv, stock frt xj slip, 2.25x.25 dom tube __________________ DeepWoods Extreme 95XJ 60's 38's 4.3 Atlas Stazies

05-15-2012, 05:04 PM	#20 (permalink)
andrewmacc token Canadian Join Date: May 2010 Member # 160053 Location: Surrey, BC, Canada Posts: 255	Show me some front shafts, guys. I shortened a stocker, but with a D300 and not having cut and turned my front, my angle is brruuutal. __________________ '98 Cherokee, 2-dr, HP60/14B 5.13:1, 37"s, Dana 300 4:1, 14" FOA coilovers, 5.9L V8 on its way in.. oink oink.

05-21-2012, 09:50 AM	#21 (permalink)
GeneticDisposition Banned Join Date: Dec 2010 Member # 178399 Posts: 440	Back to the top in need of advice. I'm going to run a D300 and have two front yokes from a 231 and some spare front shafts to modify for mock up. My question is what is everyone doing on the axle side? Is everyone just getting a u-joint that goes from the stock shaft to the D60 yoke? Or are you buying new yokes for the axles?

05-21-2012, 11:18 AM	#22 (permalink)
DRICH394 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Member # 140225 Location: Hampton, Ga. Posts: 246	I upped mine to 1330, but was running 1310/1330 cross joint without issues, but just desides to upgrade, u will be fine with a cross joint FROM THE EMPTY BOTTLE! __________________ 1 Ton Roll-bucket; MGO

05-21-2012, 02:46 PM	#23 (permalink)
Gravy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Member # 105716 Location: Bountiful, Utah Posts: 974	stock cherokee front slip shafts 1.25" don't take a lot of torque before they twist off. 1 3/8" slip with a forged yoke and no worries yet __________________ 00TJ 35sp60s 106wb Fabing & Wheeling is about having fun. If not: You're doing it wrong

05-21-2012, 03:08 PM	#24 (permalink)
GeneticDisposition Banned Join Date: Dec 2010 Member # 178399 Posts: 440	Not the way I like to go about things but all this 1310-1330 has me lost. Talked to the local custom drive shaft place a town over. He said not to go 1330 because they have much less angle. He suggested 1310 or 1350. Mine will see 6 hour drives to go wheel so I'll post up what he makes me. God do I hate putting up the white flag but I hate braking more.

05-21-2012, 04:29 PM	#25 (permalink)
frankensteinxj Registered User Join Date: Feb 2011 Member # 184176 Location: Goshen, OH Posts: 698	I used the yoke that came with my sterling and d60 for my shafts. 1330s I believe. 1.75 hrew tube 1330 at axle 1310 at trans I hacked my old dana 60 slip shaft and stock front xj shaft for the front. Temporary until I get some square tube or get one made. __________________ [SIZE="4"][COLOR="Red"]Id rather go fishing for a day than to have crabs for a life.[/COLOR][/SIZE]

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode