Lq9 xj

[gunsnarrows]

Originally Posted by JM93LiftedYJ

So when you're done, what part will remain XJ? haha

Badass build. I'll follow this one for sure.

thanks! whats left of the xj body is here to stay! i might do a small bit of trimming and i mean small amount to make the tube fit better..back to the boatsides i am going to add another pillar between the A and B pillar that i have now and add another to the back end of the BS. in the rear it will start the wheel well and the front it will give me more leg room once i plate it and cover it with UHMW and it will give it smoother lines..

[ashmanjeepXJ]

Have you seen the dash spreader in this build?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...6#post14658876

That would work well in your build.

I like the boat sides, good start.

[beakie]

This is going to be good.
keep it up.

[ONEtonXJ]

Originally Posted by ashmanjeepXJ

Have you seen the dash spreader in this build?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...6#post14658876

That would work well in your build.

I like the boat sides, good start.

that's badass.. i think im gunna steal that idea i wonder if he had to hack up under the dash to get it all back together

[gunsnarrows]

Originally Posted by ashmanjeepXJ

Have you seen the dash spreader in this build?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...6#post14658876

That would work well in your build.

i was thinking more on the lines of a hybrid inner/exo cage more exo than inner cage but sumerged into the roof..but when i make my new dash it will be apart of the cage and the tunnel...but it gave more ideas thanks!

[gunsnarrows]

Originally Posted by beakie

This is going to be good.
keep it up.

Thanks man. I really like your xj especially the rear.. so much the rear of this thing is going to look alot like the rear of your jeep double c pillars and all fuggin like it!

[gunsnarrows]

F my life.. well i guess if i can break the case before it is in my heep it doesent belond there..how did i do it? well i was installing the front output housing and the barings cought the side of the case (i was not paying attention when tightening the bolts) and then POP! huge crack in the case...i would like to get a atlas 2 speed but im not sure about the adaptabilty with the blackbox-I..or i should get the stak replace a case but then ill still need to buy the 4-1 low max gears..that will cost me another 1400$ or so.i wish i just got a atlas from the get-go

sorry about the pic

[ONEtonXJ]

oh fuck.....

that sucks man... i think i'm gunna do that stak replace a case..

[gunsnarrows]

Originally Posted by ONEtonXJ

oh fuck.....

that sucks man... i think i'm gunna do that stak replace a case..

Yah i am really leaning towards the replace a case it will still be much cheaper and what not sense i have all the good stuffings for the thing

[gunsnarrows]

well its hunting season so the jeep was put on hold for a bit to do some killing with the bow!! its going good so far! i also managed to get some more work done on the boat sides and cleaned up the front axle/truss for the front 3 link with panhard and i am going full hydro!

i posted hunting pics because this rig will be used for hunting i plan to make bow holders and spotting scope mounts incorporated into the inside of the cage.. lol over kill hunting juggy

[gunsnarrows]

shot the elk at 77 yards
deer at 25 yards
and the speed goat at 50 yards
good times! now back on topic

i picked up a cherry picker today so i can put the motor in to see how low the oil pan will hang to determine where full bump in the front will be

The boatsides top rail is 70 inches long..i think i am going to add some support between the pillars of the BS 1.5 hrew tube

[gunsnarrows]

my uppers links are about 4 inches shorter that the lowers
the frame side vertical separation can be adjusted form about 6.5-10.5 inches
i set it up at full bump to work with the ORIs
i used 1.75 .25 wall DOM tubing for link brackets to mount on that shit is a S.O.B to bend 180 degrees
i will have the role cage tie into the upper link hoops with an X behind the seats
hows it look?! just need some input before i totally burn it in!
RUFF STUFF makes some good shit!

i just relized i have way to much vertical separation at the frame side..O well easy fix

[gunsnarrows]

guess i must be doing it somewhat right?lol in this ^^^^ i put 6 bends in the Xmember to get it how i wanted it

[xj9140]

Originally Posted by gunsnarrows

guess i must be doing it somewhat right?lol in this ^^^^ i put 6 bends in the Xmember to get it how i wanted it

Probably the nicest XJ back half I have ever seen. Did you check any of the link geometry with a calulater?

[xjbrian219]

Build is pretty awesome.... I'm diggin' that 2 wheeled contraption in the background too...

[gunsnarrows]

Originally Posted by xj9140

Probably the nicest XJ back half I have ever seen. Did you check any of the link geometry with a calulater?

wow! thanks!!! i believe keeping the stock unibody back half takes a lot more skill and Patience to be able to do something cool with it.. i have not plugged it into the 4 link calculator but i do know once i cut the upper link hoops down 3 inches on each side and set it up to have the uppers and lowers frame side 5.5 inches from each other the pinion stays pointed at where i measured the t case flange to be at through the entire range of travel.

tryin my best to make nice welds their is a few not so pretty ones odd angles.

[gunsnarrows]

Originally Posted by xjbrian219

Build is pretty awesome.... I'm diggin' that 2 wheeled contraption in the background too...

lol my bike? specialized enduro sl comp front tire is flat bought it when i lived in hawaii..it is pretty bad ass

[FordX4-offroad]

well shit... i had my doubts when i kept seeing pics of more and more cutting away of the body. :eek




but... rest assured, you have removed all doubts

great fab work for sure!

if you havent already figured it out; i recommend the same seperation on the axle and frame ends of the links.
or atleast pretty close to the same.

if the frame seperation is more than the axle seperation, then your pinion will do some crazy things.

this is just from personal experience. YMMV

[gunsnarrows]

now my fuck up. so the brackets i used for the uppers were for getting 22.5 degrees on a straight bar well some how i forgot about that and just paired them up once i dident need them to be angled ..so now one one side is shorter than the other...F my life!. no biggy ill just cut off the shorter bracket off and get a matching side to the longer bracket
and some flex pics

[gunsnarrows]

Originally Posted by FordX4-offroad

well shit... i had my doubts when i kept seeing pics of more and more cutting away of the body. :eek




but... rest assured, you have removed all doubts

great fab work for sure!

if you havent already figured it out; i recommend the same seperation on the axle and frame ends of the links.
or atleast pretty close to the same.

if the frame seperation is more than the axle seperation, then your pinion will do some crazy things.

this is just from personal experience. YMMV

..lol thanks! that sawsall is a good time!so that would be 100% antisquat? i can bring it to about 8.8 inches of separation..i was shooting for 60% antisquat and i will test her out and see how it performs at different amounts of separation when it is done in the badlands

[gunsnarrows]

I figured out i need a flywheel spacer to torque converter GM Parts Direct: 12621399 - FLYWHEEL.

Found this on here GMPP spacer P/N: 12563532 $40 6.0L flex plate $50 (ebay) Crank bolts GM (6) P/N: 12553332 $2.52 each.

6.0L plate then GMPP P/N 12551367 $113 is a new flexplate

I have been looking at torque converters and found this guy its stall is 2400 and it is antibaloon hope it will work B&M 20480 - B&M Nitrous Holeshot Torque Converters - Overview - SummitRacing.com

[frankensteinxj]

For some reason I havent seen this build until now.

Absolutely awesome work.

[gunsnarrows]

Originally Posted by frankensteinxj

For some reason I havent seen this build until now.

Absolutely awesome work.

Thanks man! I am on pirate a good part of the day for the last year or so reading and searching and taking notes from the "professors" on here, there are some awesome builds to learn from and that is just on the Cherokee section

[gunsnarrows]

Well i i have been reading up on 3 link setups and have been taking notes i must have read through the 3link totm 4 times and countless # of other 3 link builds. I am just posting these notes and shit i need to buy on here so i get it right the first time if something does not sound right let me know.

notes and stuff i need to buy for my front 3 link
-1.25 ruff stuff himes all the way around=strong- adjustable- low maintenance-long life
-Longer upper link 2in .25 wall tube flat at ride height
-Lower links 2in .25 wall tube. I will have them slightly angled towards the knuckle's for tier clearance
- axle side link separation 9 inches but will be adjustable up to 10in
- frame side link separation will be adjustable 50% 70% 90% anti dive
Panhard get it as long as i can get it flat at ride height 7/8 himes.1.5 in tube. 25 wall
I will be using ARTEC brackets on the axle because they look well thought out and stout
I am going full hydro steering and will be using artecs ram mount and other sexy shit for full hydro..hope this sounds solid

[dukie564]

couple things i've learned planning for mine

2x.25 is overkill for uppers - 1.5x.188 is more than sufficient IMO
I like FK heims over Ruffstuff

Looks great so far!