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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Member # 222180
Posts: 8
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over heating with griffin maxcool and electronic fans
HI,
My name is Kfir and i'm from Israel, i have 2000 XJ and i had installed Griffin maxcool radiator and replaced the mechanical fan with two additional slim 10 inch fans (and left the AC fan as well) all three fans are working without AC on and i have another 11 inch fan in the grill for AC - i dont have any shroud installed becuase i couldnt find any scape for the shroud since i have a fifth fan for the outotranc cooler in the grill as well (i had to cut the grill to fit the fifth fan). now my problem is that its getting overheated with AC on only in low speed (on and off road). BTW i'm on 33" + D44 F\R Teralow transfer - attached is a picture of the car: can someone please advise how can i make sure it will not get heated with AC on? PS - its quite frustrate that i got the best radiator availible and my JX gets over heating |
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#2 (permalink) |
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NEWBIE (in capitals)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Member # 141351
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 474
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few things;
1. if you have pusher fans working across from puller fans and they are not moving air at the same speed they will just fight each other and not move much air at all. almost sounds like you have so many fans they are fighting each other, or blocking air from moving. at the same time, if your fans are running while you are driving at speed, they will fight the natural air flow created by moving forward. 2. without a good shroud, the fan won't push/pull air through the rad, it will move it too/from the easiest path, which is probably just towards the outsides of the blades. 3. if you have the ac condenser in front of the rad, and you are already having problems moving air past the engine rad, you really need to address getting the air moving through the rads, not just around the fans. - you could have the rad with a full shroud, bottle necked down to a tiny fan... providing it moves enough air it will cool the rad because the air has no choice but to pass through the rad... without a shroud air is simply moving around the fan, not necessarily through the rad.
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insert something witty here... Last edited by beakie; 06-26-2012 at 11:42 AM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Member # 222180
Posts: 8
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Thank you,
I've removed the grill grill out, and now taking of the push fans from the front, this way I will earn additional 1.5" for the shroud, in the shroud I will install 3 X 10" fans in the shroud, do you think it will solve the problem? |
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#4 (permalink) |
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lazy bastard
Join Date: May 2005
Member # 47629
Location: Fullerton
Posts: 199
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I'd put the mechanical fan back in. I have yet to see one single Cherokee which cooled better with electric fans than it does with the factory mechanical fan and shroud.
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Ultra4 Stock Class #4643 - Team NAXJA/Petty Cash Racing
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2002
Member # 10249
Location: Vail, Arizona
Posts: 4,515
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Quote:
What is the CFM of your planned fans? Does the CFM drop off quickly when under load? 1,200-1,500 CFM with no load This is a good fan from Spall. http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102157_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH A better one $200 ea would be $600 in fans.... not cheap and will pull allot of current on start up. I would run Three 60-70 Amp relays, one for each fan due to the on surge current. http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102800_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH The Mechanical fan would give you alot of CFM for cheaper, could do that and a shroud for one electric fan as big as you can fit.
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Dave, 2013 KOH "Got, Some of it" #697 JIMMY'S 4X4 Grand Cherokee Buggy ADS Shocks LQ4-Th400-Atlas4sp D60 14B Come wheel with us WheelingArizona.com Ashman's youtube channel |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5639
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 5,945
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here is mine: Shroud and 3 fans, seems to cool fine so far. AC isn't hooked up yet though. I did move the whole unit forward ~1".
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Just Add Lightness I'd rather be simple-and-wrong than complicated-and-wrong. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102891
Posts: 19
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If it's getting hot driving and sitting you have a flow problem. I'd change the T-stat out to a 165 degree and check your water pump as well. Fans should only come into play with cooling when not moving or moving slow/crawling.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Member # 222180
Posts: 8
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Quote:
It's overheating only when I'm moving slow and not even when I'm off road - it's happening in traffic... |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Member # 222180
Posts: 8
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Quote:
I took you guys advises and I'm building a shroud for the 3 10" fans and took off the extra pusher fan. I hope it will solve it (if not I will be back complaining...;-) Thanks |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 81189
Location: Steubenville, OH (near Wellsville)
Posts: 1,625
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I have three 10" pushers shrouded with a 3 row heat buster upgrade radiator I got at Autozone and mine gets hot when I'm moving slow offroad, especially climbing long hills.
I just got a 180 Robert Shaw therm, a Flowkooler pump & I'm gonna hoan out & smooth the therm cover some. We'll see of this helps.... I have hood vents & I've routed the Trans thru a separate cooler also. I'm doing everything I can think of to get this thing to stay at 210! Next step is Evans Waterless Coolant :/
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'88 Jeep MJ 1-ton buggy |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Member # 222180
Posts: 8
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Quote:
So you are saying that it will not work ![]() WTF should I do next??? |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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NEWBIE (in capitals)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Member # 141351
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 474
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Quote:
get your shroud built, maybe try a NEW 195degree thermostat, and ensure the fans are wired properly (proper gauge wiring/relay/etc for each so it can move it's full potential of air) if that doesn't work for you, check back in... also, if you can add some pics of what you end up with that may help people help you.
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insert something witty here... |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5639
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 5,945
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Yeah you need to try each step, the system has to be setup correctly to work and that includes the above stuff.
Mine has been cooling fine as long as the fans come on. I had a issue with the second fan not kicking on and it would heat up until I kicked in the 3rd fan. I am running a Hesco water pump but really only cause the Napa units were crapping out every 3-4 months and I got sick of it and wanted a quality pump. How are you checking your fan CFM? I have heard that alot of fan company claims are inflated (imagine that). Spal is one that has accurate ratings.
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Just Add Lightness I'd rather be simple-and-wrong than complicated-and-wrong. Last edited by Weasel; 07-03-2012 at 08:41 PM. |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102891
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Rest assured you'll never cool a XJ below that "opening" temp unless you're driving in freezing conditions which hasn't been a problem for me in Phoenix.
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Member # 222180
Posts: 8
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Quote:
I have the same fans as Weasel picture... In the catalog it's says 1200... |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 174817
Posts: 2
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my humble comment:
return to a HD cluth fan paired to the stock shroud & install a 97+ stock efan. the stock combo is capable to blow 4000+ cfms....just verify your water pump is in good condition and radiator cap is also OK. I had installed also a triple efan set up ( shrouds, custom made controll, etc..) but when in summer days @ traffic or crawling, the system was not capable to keep the engine @210. |
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