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Old 08-05-2003, 11:09 AM   #76 (permalink)
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some more pics.






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Old 08-05-2003, 11:44 AM   #77 (permalink)
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wow are those u bolts your bumb stops?
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Old 08-05-2003, 09:14 PM   #78 (permalink)
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thanks ashman, thats what im probably going to use, along with 52 inch chevys outback inboarded under the frame
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Old 08-06-2003, 12:07 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by INFAMOUSBUTCHER
thanks ashman, thats what im probably going to use, along with 52 inch chevys outback inboarded under the frame
Since the cherokee rear leafs are off set center pin, when on the front they point the axle down quite abit. I can not re-weld the spring perches cause one side is cast into the dana 60, and I did not want to twist my knuckles with the pinnion point ing down, so I bought a shim to fix the pinnion and to fix the caster.

My degree tool said Im pointing 5 degrees down, I bought a 4 degree shim, this morning. The shop in town charged $20 for the two 4 degree shims rip off. and wanted $8 per new center pin, I need a longer NEW pin to add that leaf tonight. NO way on the pins but bit-it on the shims.

I went to our copperstate bolt shop and got some 5/16in all-thread he said its stronger then grad 5 but just below grade 8. 3ft of that stuff for 3$ with grade 8 nuts.. Ill just weld two nuts on the bottom end.

With the shims I need a longer head on the center pin so it will stick through the shim and into the spring pad hole. The
all-thread I can adjust how deep it goes into the spring pad using the two nuts, where as the $8 center pin bolts would only have like 1/8in-3/16 of the head inside the pin hole of the spring pad. The two bolts on the all-thread will be much better.

I think Ill round off the corners on my shackles tonight too, and cut the extra U-bolt threads-bumpstops

Ooh, and a dana 60 front with no lift, will hit your exhaust, Ill have to re-wrok the exhaust around the engine.
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Old 08-06-2003, 12:39 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


My degree tool said Im pointing 5 degrees down, I bought a 4 degree shim, this morning. The shop in town charged $20 for the two 4 degree shims rip off. and wanted $8 per new center pin, I need a longer NEW pin to add that leaf tonight. NO way on the pins but bit-it on the shims.
From the different 4x4 shops I've been too, $20 really isn't that bad for steel shims, I know it sucks, they're just little hunks of steel...

And I went to a parts store one time and tried for about 10 minutes to explain to a guy what I was looking for, he must have been the dumbest person ever, but finally he just told me they don't have them.

I just flipped my leaf sprung MJ from shackle in the rear to shackle in the front, so now I need to go find some BIG ol' shims, like 8 degrees... that'll be interesting...
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Old 08-09-2003, 12:00 AM   #81 (permalink)
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Hey there ashmanjeepxj, long time no hear, as my pc had crashed. I moved the rear leafs onto the frame rails, new hangers and reinforced the frame, used the chevy leaves-left four in the pack, and I went ahead and converted the front-end to leafs as well. I used the leaves from a 71 FSJ with a 6 banger. Provides the lift and articulation I was after, as well as a smooth ride. I can put thr front tire onto a 42" high rock and keep all four wheels touching. As you may remember, I had the top chopped off, since then I had built a full cage. I took on Colo's famous 21 Rd. and did it w/o any use odf a jack, tow strap or a winch. I was stoked. Keep up the updates, as soon as I get the film developed, I will post some pics.
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Old 08-12-2003, 12:02 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Cherokee leafs in front dont work!!!
Yet

ok So I added the YJ leaves and have 3in of lift as expected, but my main XJ leaf Is warped really bad in the back..







If I re-drill the XJ main leaf pin to center, the centered YJ leafs may fix the warp. This will move my axle 2.5in closer to the body, so Ill use my 2.5in of adjustment at the frame end, but then my shackle angle will be more then 45 degress so Ill have to move my shackle mount forward. I dont want that much hanging out front.

so option two.
Us a YJ main leaf, I have like 6 of those sitting around, then make a new frame mount 5in forward of the current one, and keep my current shakle angle.

I think the YJ main leaf will be stronger, cuase the second leaf will go eye to eye where as on the Xj main leaf the second leaf will have like 2.5in of over hang on each side. The Xj main leaf centered will have more wheel travel (FLEX) but will have more shackel hanging out front.

I think I have to rework my mounts and use the YJ mains


It looks so good.. too.

Measurements:
Front tire to well 9in, 11.5in to body seam.
Reat tire to well 7in, 12in to body seam.
Frame to ground is 23in

I love the height. Dont like the XJ leafs.
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Old 08-25-2003, 11:47 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Some progress from last weekend

Drilled the pittman arm out using a 5/8in Masonary bit, then used my tapered reimer to flare the pittman arm.

the Reamer I put in my varable speed drill, went slow, and ended up burning up the brushes on the drill.



I fixed the warp in the main leaf by re drilling the YJ main leaf used as my second leaf. I used a 1/16in drill bit as a start, then used a masonary bit I had, then used my metal bits in one step increments till I got the hole large enoguth for the pin.
The spring material is hard to drill so I didnt want to drill holes for the plastice sliders so I just welded the ends of antoehr leaf on them.. Ill see if they hold up..



For spring clams I used a factory YJ leaf and cut the little tabs of the clams off, then when re assembled with my leaf pack I clamped it then tack welded the tabs back on. alot easier then bending them...

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Old 08-25-2003, 11:51 AM   #84 (permalink)
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With the re-pinned second leaf and the added weld on tabs Im about 1in taller, now 12.5in from the top of tire to the body line. perfect.



SUCKS,

on friday my Daily driver Toyota's cluck went out... Clutch parts took from the cherokee driveshaft and brake line money...

Delays...


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Old 09-18-2003, 09:27 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Does look goog. I need to develop my pics and find a PC that I can upload them onto, or get mine fixed. I chose the 71 vFSJ leafs due to their compromise on length and durability. They do flex very well-shocks being the limiting factor. The leaves have settled some due to the springover but the ride and the flex are very well worth it. I'll be back when I have access to a PC again. Good luck.
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Old 09-18-2003, 10:05 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Find some other XJ main leafs that someone has taken off to through awat, cut the eyes off, and wallah you have a second leaf that is long enough to spread the load, if you need more, you can use more out of that pack or use the YJ one you already have under it, might need to redrill the hole in it to recenter it.
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Old 09-18-2003, 12:07 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Any reason you're avoiding XJ lift springs?? You can pick 'em up pretty cheap used and I don't see why they wouldn't do the trick. Maybe I'm missing something.

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Old 09-18-2003, 12:35 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Arya Ebrahimi
Any reason you're avoiding XJ lift springs?? You can pick 'em up pretty cheap used and I don't see why they wouldn't do the trick. Maybe I'm missing something.

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Used Xj lift springs would work... Reguardless Id have to modify add a leaf to them to support the added weight of the motor...

If I had an extra set of stock XJ leafs I would use an Xj main leaf as the second leaf then toss that YJ lift leaf under that... but I dont have any more XJ packs.. I will need some XJ spairs for future repairs.

Ill have to get you guys pics of the new crossmsmber/skid Im finishing up, its really sweet..
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Old 09-18-2003, 08:39 PM   #89 (permalink)
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The cross member:

first I took the factory one off and tossed it, then I cut the rubber off the tranny mount. I then welded some angle iron onto the tranny mount to make it stronger. Then I welded on some cut down F350 shackles. I hope the rubber in the shackles will be enough to dampen some vibrations.. My old rubber was ripped so I wanted to rebuild the whole thing...

Next I made a plate of 1/4in bolt up to the welded on shackles using some tabs and leaf sprign bolts I had sitting around.

Then I cut pieces of 1/4in plate to from around the Np231 and around the CAT. I like how it came out.. The crossmember has tabs on the sides so it will bolt into the sides of the new subframe. No bolts to sheer off.

PICS...







I plan to get alot done this weekend.

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Old 09-18-2003, 09:29 PM   #90 (permalink)
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I've used the XJ leaves before, and they bend way too easily-I have been replacing them once every year. Gets a little old after a while. I chucked the factory Xmember a year ago, I have a 3x5 rect. tube 3/16th of an inch thick, it'll support the jeep by itself, but it does get hung up on rocks-it'll have to be modified later. Child support makes it harder to concentrate my effort and finances, so it is very slow progress.
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Old 09-26-2003, 12:41 PM   #91 (permalink)
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I bolted up my drive shafts, then bolted on the cross member and started the engine.. The little bushings in the shackle work, it is not as vibration free as the factory mounts but its not noisey so it works.

After bolting the rear driveshaft up I welded the new slip spline up. I jack up the rear axle, I used coat hanger wire taped to a jack stand and pointed it close to where the Slip spline would be welded, then I spun the shaft, tapped it with the hammer when it woudl hit the wire, spun the shaft...tapped, spun...
Then I tack welded it on the low side, then tapped it with a hammer and kept spot welding it. The slip spline is cast so I pre heated it with a torch and gave coolign time between spot welds. The rear looks great, it has less then a 1/16in wobble to it at the center.

The front "factory shaft" I cut down about 1.5in, Ill weld it up tonight.

I ended up with 1310, 1330, and 1350 drive shaft parts and U-joints... Boths shafts have a 1310 CVs, the front has a 1310-1330 Ujoint adaptor with small caps to mount to that d60, the rear uses a new 1350 slip spline and 1350 Ujoint to the dana 70.
For $300 I have working front and rear CV shafts.. not all 1350 stuff but it works for now.

Im hoping to get the jeep out of the garage by this sunday..

The new brake lines I got are really nice, and those rancho 5012 13.5in travel shocks are gonna mount up nicely.

Ill get pics but my camera is acting up..
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Old 09-26-2003, 10:17 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Good to hear you almost got her out of the garage. I should be pulling mine out this weekend as well. Keep up the good work
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Old 09-27-2003, 04:24 AM   #93 (permalink)
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WOW,

What a great read, thanks for taking the time to post all of this!

I think you're doin a great job on that!

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Old 09-29-2003, 11:52 AM   #94 (permalink)
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My digi camera is completely broke.

Last night at like 7pm, brakes blead, nuts tightended, fluid filled, the beat was built!!

Backed it out into the street, with neighbors watching to see what all the straight pipe noise was all about..chirp chrip chirp..

I got my first side view glance of it in the dark out of the garage...

I first noticed that 4.10 gears adn 37s arent that bad with my 5sp, much more power then my toyota

The rear brake shoes I could feal catching for the first 100ft, and some of my new J-uints were breaking in...

got it up to 35MPH, no vibes, no front shocks so I didnt want to go much faster on the initial test.

Whent out wheelin in the washes around the neighborhood with aaron, There is this section of wash that is full of larger chunks of concrete, I was comming down the dirt side of the was up to a 2ft tall slab, missed the tire and laneded on the tierod, I gave it some gass, stalled, so got out to see the whole weight was on the tierod. backed it up took a different line no problem, just scratched it

Then were ready to head home, and my hubs were stuck, locked. my front is spooled and our neighbor hood is curvey!!!no fun.

I cherped, hoped, and powersteerign swueeled my way home, jacked up the front and they un locked. Ill have to inspect them and see whats binding.


My camera is toast, but a neighbor is willing to take me some pics tonight. I have to give a department presentation tomarrow at luch, so mabe wed ill get the rolling but not finished pics up.

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Old 09-29-2003, 12:02 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


Free... or Cheep...

I choose Free

Used Xj lift springs would work... Reguardless Id have to modify add a leaf to them to support the added weight of the motor...

If I had an extra set of stock XJ leafs I would use an Xj main leaf as the second leaf then toss that YJ lift leaf under that... but I dont have any more XJ packs.. I will need some XJ spairs for future repairs.

Ill have to get you guys pics of the new crossmsmber/skid Im finishing up, its really sweet..
Hey bud you need some stock XJ springs, let me know there your's free. Just shipping. I don't know if you can get them cheaper there then shipping from here. But there your's if you need them.
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Old 09-29-2003, 12:14 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Originally posted by GETCHA SUM


Hey bud you need some stock XJ springs, let me know there your's free. Just shipping. I don't know if you can get them cheaper there then shipping from here. But there your's if you need them.
Where are you? shipping to 85743 tucson arizona?
Money will have to wait till I sell some more parts or till the cage tube is bought.
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Old 09-29-2003, 02:14 PM   #97 (permalink)
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I'm in montana, I'll get a quote for ya tomorrow. Do you need the whole pack, if not it could save some weight.
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Old 09-29-2003, 04:21 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Nice Rig

Thats one nice rig. I hope to read the rest of this artical of you rig build. especiay like the frame reinforcement work you did. I have learned alot from these post. hope you get it finished soon.

Would be nice to see some pics of it wheelin to see the flex and good wheelin use you get out of it..

just a noobe here readin the post ....
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Old 09-30-2003, 01:06 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by GETCHA SUM
I'm in montana, I'll get a quote for ya tomorrow. Do you need the whole pack, if not it could save some weight.
yea I really only need the main leaf, the others should not brake..
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Old 09-30-2003, 01:09 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Pics!!


The cross member complete, sub frame sealed and painted











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