this is the lowest wj i could find

 

LOL awesome response. That pic has been floating around for so long, but I laugh every time I see it.

WJ's aren't the easiest to get low, even then it's really nice to have some extra uptravel to make the ride more comfortable. Mine is too tall for this thread, but this one I built a year and a half ago has the opportunity to be LCOG.

14 bolt with 12" FOA Coilovers, HP44 with 14" FOA Coilovers. 6" uptravel from these pics with 37" tires. If the owner wanted to, he could drop the coilovers 3 inches and get nice soft bumpstops for the remaining 3" of uptravel, then be really low. To be honest though, rocker height is what kills WJ's wheelability versus anything else, cut the rockers out and replace with box tube. Take some out of the doors while you're at it for an extra inch or two.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/1215082-another-wj-build.html

 

Thats more like it. I will have to look at my doors to get a better idea of how to trim them. Boxing the rockers will save a couple inches compared to regular sliders.

I want to run 4" springs, cut the fenders, and use bumpstops to fit 37's. My concern is at that low height, long arms will be boat anchors under the rig. Could the argument be made in favor of short arms in this situation?

 

I want to run 4" springs, cut the fenders, and use bumpstops to fit 37's. My concern is at that low height, long arms will be boat anchors under the rig. Could the argument be made in favor of short arms in this situation?

No, they will not be boat anchors. Just make the bracket have a shape similar to the pic posted. Also, the length of the links doesn't have to be to the middle of the chassis or anything, but you are definitely going to want them to be longer than a short arm, and a hell of a lot stronger. I use mine to slide down/up tall ass ledges and they protect the driveshaft while doing so.

 

Found this one a while back. Not mine and not sure where it came from.

 

I slapped some 37's on for mock up and clearancing. My axles should be finished in the next week or two and then I will tear down. D60 from 2004 Superduty (4.56 and welded) and AAM rear from a powerwagon (factory 4.56 and e-locker).

Rear fenders are cut/folded, removed 1" from the rear doors, massaged the front of the rear fenders forward 1" to the new door line.

Front fenders are cut. Lower part of the inner fenders are hammered in about 2", inner fender seams are folded flat, hammered everything back almost to the bottom door hinges.

All the sheet metal "inner bumper" below the headlights is removed.

I will post pics shortly

 

D60 from 2004 Superduty (4.56 and welded) and AAM rear from a powerwagon (factory 4.56 and e-locker).

how will you address having different wheel bolt patterns front from rear?

 

The rear axle is also 2" wider than the front, so a pair of 1" wheel spacer/adapters on the front will get both birds with one stone.

 

good stuff. noted.

thanks.


trimming looks good.

 

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x2 on what agitated said. Its hard getting these things low, without sacrificing ground clearance or uptravel. Box/boatside the rockers and tuck the trans crossmember up a bit higher now rather than later.

Cant help you with the rear, but the front half of my wjuggy is all factory, minus the fenders and bumper (yeah yeah, cheating :flipoff2. Used to rock 4" of lift on a full body with 35's easily. Guessing ~3" of lift on 40s now, ~17" belly.

Its a tight fit, everywhere. Get creative and get ready to lose/move a lot of sheet metal.

More pics here
WJ on won tons

 

A little progress. Front is mocked in place. Waiting on lots of parts to arrive. 04 Super Duty D60 with the Artec bracket kit.

 

Looks good! How far forward did you have to move your axle? Foresee any problems with your track bar and pitman arm connecting?

 

Another

 

Moar

 

Are you running the spacers to clear brake/steering components with the H2 wheels, or is it a matter of going for a low and wide stance?

Also; How is the JK artec truss lining up with the WJ control arms and springs? thanks

 

The axle is 1" forward compared to stock. Right now it looks like everything will clear. Its definitely tight. Really the only thing I am worried about is how close the pinion yoke/driveshaft are to the drivers side "frame" rail. There is enough room for the yoke to spin, but thats it. I can barely slip my hand between the pinion yoke and frame rail. My track bar is very flat, so there should be minimal side to side movement of the axle. I need to get all the links in, and then I will cycle it and find out what hits, if anything.

 

X member pics?

 

Everything is stock right now. Waiting on lots of parts to arrive. Will post pics of the x-member, arms, etc soon.

 

Issues:

1) The diff hits the track bar bracket under compression.

2) The pinion yoke hits the "frame rail" somewhere close to full bump.

3) Keeping it low is going to be a can of worms. I am going to do my best to stay with 4" springs. Im really digging the stance. It will be nice and stable at this height.

 

You are fabbing everything from scratch right?

Im building my zj for 37s on a 3 inch and know your pain. The biggest issue i found was getting the right amount of frame separation for my 3 link. I will also be notching my rails for link clearance for my lowers. And im still trying to find a place for my track bar.

How far are you going to take it to keep it low? Is it going to be worth the time invested? At this point in my build i almost wish i would just lifted it an extra inch or duo to make the build easier. I have an 18 inch belly and 25 inches of clearance to the outside of my boatsides with only a 3 inch lift so it should be worth it. But if i would have gone to a 5 inch lift and dropped everything down 2 inches the jeep would be wheelable right now with the same specs.

 

Probably gonna be a PITA without a lift but you could notch and plate the "frame" to clear the yoke. And use an outside frame track bar mount?

 

This is likely the route I will take. I can notch the frame about 2" deep for about a 6" long section and it will clear. Definitely a PITA.

 

This may need to be moved to non-hardcore. Im not building it from scratch and its going to remain full-bodied. Mods, do as you wish

 

Got the steering done today. OEM super duty drag link and tie rod. I reamed my stock pitman arm out and bolted everything in. The stock super duty drag link is the perfect length. I went this route for simplicity and being able to find replacement parts locally if need be. Plenty of beef for this application.

 

Axle is currently 1" forward from "stock". I have room to move it forward almost 2 more inches and still have room for the track bar to clear in front of the diff and stay off the steering.

 

Moar

 

That TRE on the Pittman arm looks like it will bind if it drops much more, you may need to add a bend in your drag link. Looks great though.

 

That rod end has a ton of travel. I was surprised. Drag link ends have more range of movement than tie rod ends do. Either way, right now its sitting at almost full droop. Another 1.5" down and the coils fall out. I will put retainers on the springs to keep from chasing them down the trail, but I am in the camp that believes once the coil comes unseated, any travel beyond that is not really useful.

 

Glad it's all fitting together, Matt.

 

Nice build so far, keep up the good work. :smokin: